the swirler-stein

here are some closeups of my cam setup.

cam1.jpg



the Y shaped piece slips into the hole on the down tube pictured here. I have to squeeze the top of the Y to get it into the hole, and it fits nice. This method of attachment allowed me to play with different cam sizes without reglueing. But as you can see my cam is so short I had to carve out a grove in the down tube piece to get the movement I wanted. If I hadn't added the extra 3/4" pvc top to it I wouldn't have had to do this. I added that piece because I didn't want my little push in cam being the only support for the powerhead and down tube. This way the 3/4" pvc holds the weight. I hope that makes sense.

cam2.jpg
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7193978#post7193978 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by hmott
sorry my pictures are so big guys, I don't know how to make them smaller.
Click to expand...

If youââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢re using Windows XP the following link is a good solution to your picture resizing problems.
http://www.microsoft.com/windowsxp/downloads/powertoys/xppowertoys.mspx

Quickly download and install ââ"šÂ¬Ã…"œImage Resizerââ"šÂ¬Ã‚. After instillation all you have to do is ââ"šÂ¬Ã…"œright clickââ"šÂ¬Ã‚ over any image and you will see resizing options.
 
Has anyone seen this web page?

http://jean.yen.tripod.com/id55.htm

It has some good pix on how to make a SeaSwirl clone. There's a good picture of the kind of motor used and the linkage.

It sounds like heat is a common problem with the cheaper moters as this quote from the site shows:

This is how the units look after three months of use. The original motors used were from Cramer. For unknown reason, even under zero load, all the test motors ran very hot after 5 minutes of use. The gear housing heats up to approximately 120 degrees! I thought this can get even hotter, considering the small enclosed space and being constantly heated by the metal halide, I added a 12V computer CPU fan to cool each motor. The fan blow cool air across the motor and exit via tiny holes on the housing. Ultimately, I changed the motor to a different brand, but I left the cooling fan intact. I figure it can't hurt to cool a running motor anyways
Click to expand...
 
Well I did a little research and it shows that pvc has a max temp of 158* and a melting point of 178*.

I don't have my 120, where these will reside, running yet so I don't have any data on mine. Does anyone have one with extended run time yet? I don't believe my motor got to 120*, but maybe I'll actually add a thermometer to it today and see what it reads after 30min or so on lunch.
 
That was a cool page.

Here's the link to specs to the motor in the Seaswirl:Autotrol 150 moto

$35 directly from Seaswirl (ouch!). The larger 1" Seaswirl uses a different motor(?) and the price from Seaswirl is $45.
 
Last edited:
I sent them an email asking what the motor temp is at 1rpm 110v. We'll see what they have to say. I bet it gets hot too, it looks just like the motors we've been using.
 
This tread seems a little slow lately....I have really enjoyed all your ideas and have been watching closely and plan on giving it a try.....I'm curious how people are making out with that 2.5 RPM 120 VAC INLINE GEARMOTOR and the heat issue. Any other suggestions on motors?

Unfortunatly I have a size constraint within my canaopy thats giving me a tough time trying to DIY this mod. I did find this vendor with several differnt plastic "project boxes" I may consider using. The flages make it seem easy to mount as well.

http://www.hammondmfg.com/dwg2a.htm

What would you folks consider the absolute smallest box the motor and gearing can fit into. It appears that at least an 1 inch high box might work.

Peace out

John
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7209123#post7209123 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jcarrara
This tread seems a little slow lately....I have really enjoyed all your ideas and have been watching closely and plan on giving it a try.....I'm curious how people are making out with that 2.5 RPM 120 VAC INLINE GEARMOTOR and the heat issue. Any other suggestions on motors?

Unfortunatly I have a size constraint within my canaopy thats giving me a tough time trying to DIY this mod. I did find this vendor with several differnt plastic "project boxes" I may consider using. The flages make it seem easy to mount as well.

http://www.hammondmfg.com/dwg2a.htm

What would you folks consider the absolute smallest box the motor and gearing can fit into. It appears that at least an 1 inch high box might work.

Peace out

John
Click to expand...


I dunno. 1 inch seems kinda shallow and might nott be enough roomfor the motor, its mount and the extension arm. I am going build my own box so the size can be minimized and a custom fit based on the motor and overall layout.


D.
 
One thing I found that might make things easier is to use the piece of plastic that came with the maxijets (the one that slides into the base of the pump and has a "keyhole" in it). Glue that to the botton of the down pipe in order to attach it to the maxijet mod rather than grind the pipe down itself. Also maybe cutting the down pipe at the bottom at a slight angle, maybe 5 degrees to point the MJ mod toward the bottom (for those of us with smaller tanks) could help
 
Well, those timing motors must not be designed for prolonged/constant use. Even with the whole shroud removed (bare motor) the thing still heats up like a demon. Im going to have to hunt for a better motor....off to the oceansmotions forums...lol.
 
They may use gearing, I don't know. But if you are going to use gearing then you might as well use a dc motor so you can control the speed with a pot.

I emailed autotrol about the heat of their motor. I still dont' have a reply. But honestly I'm not worried about the heat. I let it run for 8 hours solid at night and didn't notice any heat on the bottom of the pvc housing at all. I checked the inside and found no signs of heat problems. The attachment rod INSIDE the motor itself is made from plastic. Its a little soft plastic x which I drilled a hole in much easier than plexi or pvc could be drilled. I just don't think its going to be an issue.

I don't see continued use as the cause of the heat. They list sign movement as one of the uses. I'm pretty sure those sign things move 24/7 and most are paper, plastic. I'd love to find a motor that doesn't get hot but I just don't think its going to be an issue.

I wish one of the guys that finished up months ago had something to say about it. I'm going to start running mine on just turn mode for the next few months while I finish the rest of my 120 DIY projects just to see. As a mater of fact I'm going to start it on lunch and I'll post updates every now and again how its doing.
 
cool.....let us know how you make out. Also when you recieved the motor did it state anything about life expectency? I've seen that listed on web pages of other motors....but not on the one you are using. A few have been listed at 7,500 hours...so thats only a years worth of use. I'd hate to have to replace the motor every year. Also, hmott...do you have a wiring diagram for that 4 position switch and how you integrated it into the maxijet cord.

thanks

Peace out

John
 
All synchronous motors run hot, thats the way they function, if you get on that runs cool throw it out there is something wrong with it.

looking at what you all trying to do, it is the torque rating that you need to get right, 150 to 200 inch oz is a good number for longevity.

Paul
 
I don't have a wire diagram but I can make one. No it didn't list life expectancy. Maybe someone can email and ask. I think we are putting so little strain on the motor, compaired to a rotisery which its listed for, we'll have no problem. But I guess I don't know for sure.

Here is how I wired it. To be honest I'm not 100% sure on the red/blue. One is for A on, one is for B on. So mine might be refersed but it doesn't really matter. I know its not very clean but I think you can get the point.

NOTE: now that I added the actual wireing picture I can see I actually ran red/blue reversed from the diagram, but it will work either way.

switchwiring.jpg


here is the best view of the wireing I have.
DSCF0012.jpg
 
golf nut, er, Paul...thanks for joining us. I have a question... Would you ever consider making something like this as part of the OM group of products? Maybe not the bulky box, but the clip that sits on the side of the tank like the one I posted?

Also, where to get those motors of yours? How much $$$?
 
beat me to the punch hahn...paul e-mailed me today. he gets them from Auotrol and pays about 35 bucks a piece....ouch. They appear to be especially geared to his needs at 1 rpm. Also the torque rating appears more important than we thought...with regars to the logevity of the motor itself. I have a feeling the motor you purchased for 4 bucks while affordable....it only has a torque rating 14 inch lbs....so it may not last that long....I think. Your thoughts Paul?. I'd be interested in buy at leat 2. Also...I'd be curious to know what kind of plastic is considered "safe' to use with these hot motors.

Peace Out.

John
 
actually my $4 motor has 14 in-LBS of torque thats 224 in-oz of torque, not bad at all and more than he suggested.
 
so you need to convert "in-lbs" to "oz"?...maybe?...I think??...I'm a little confused. By the way what the H%&* is a "in-lbs"?
 
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