The T5 Q&a Thread - split

[Dapg8gt]

not so much to do with the bulbs, but I have a problem with my Current USA sundial ballast, in the form of a broken timer. During some tank maintenance one day I accidentally dropped one end of the ballast into the tank water, and that timer took the hit the hardest. It no longer works, and it controls my two blue+ bulbs, so I have had to manually turn those bulbs on and off every day since then. Its mostly from the dial's inability to turn bc of salt inside the dial. I've tried turning it manually to get the salt out but there's still too much in there for it to turn itself.

Anybody know a way to replace/repair these timers?? Its become such a hassle to deal with.

If it was me as I don't have experience with your specific light I would be taking it apart tracing the wiring to the timer to bypass it or remove and try to order a replacement or maybe fully clean it.. Most of the time fixtures and equipment in general look harder to repair then they are.

If it's not a sealed unit most likely it can be repaired or bypassed.

 

[TropTrea]

not so much to do with the bulbs, but I have a problem with my Current USA sundial ballast, in the form of a broken timer. During some tank maintenance one day I accidentally dropped one end of the ballast into the tank water, and that timer took the hit the hardest. It no longer works, and it controls my two blue+ bulbs, so I have had to manually turn those bulbs on and off every day since then. Its mostly from the dial's inability to turn bc of salt inside the dial. I've tried turning it manually to get the salt out but there's still too much in there for it to turn itself.

Anybody know a way to replace/repair these timers?? Its become such a hassle to deal with.

Chances are it is a solid state timer since in todays electronics world solid state is much cheaper to build than mechanical timers. Often with solid state devices once they are dried out they can start functioning normaly again. With a salt water enviroment simply humid salt can shorten things out and create problems so make sure everything is dry and clean everything you can with a cotton stick and alchohol.

If the=is does not help then either by passing or replacing the timer is your option. I would hope that Current does offer replacelemt parts but I cannot direct you to were they are marketed other than Current themselves.

 

[nichthyes]

If it was me as I don't have experience with your specific light I would be taking it apart tracing the wiring to the timer to bypass it or remove and try to order a replacement or maybe fully clean it.. Most of the time fixtures and equipment in general look harder to repair then they are.

If it's not a sealed unit most likely it can be repaired or bypassed.

Chances are it is a solid state timer since in todays electronics world solid state is much cheaper to build than mechanical timers. Often with solid state devices once they are dried out they can start functioning normaly again. With a salt water enviroment simply humid salt can shorten things out and create problems so make sure everything is dry and clean everything you can with a cotton stick and alchohol.

If the=is does not help then either by passing or replacing the timer is your option. I would hope that Current does offer replacelemt parts but I cannot direct you to were they are marketed other than Current themselves.

Thanks guys! I'm not much of a electronically saavy person, but I'll give it a shot. Thanks again!

 

[andrewbram]

So here is my question. Considering moving from led back to t5. Last time I had 4x54 on a 75 and had over 200 par on the sand. So my question is if I do 4x80 on my 210 will I get close to same effect. I know it's a much bigger tank but going with let reflectors again because those things were beast. Tia

 

[Bpb]

So here is my question. Considering moving from led back to t5. Last time I had 4x54 on a 75 and had over 200 par on the sand. So my question is if I do 4x80 on my 210 will I get close to same effect. I know it's a much bigger tank but going with let reflectors again because those things were beast. Tia

Definitely research this beyond my own advice but I read somewhere that T5HO bulbs were most efficient at 54w 48" size. That suggests longer or shorter bulbs may not have as much par per watt as the 48" ones do. I could
Be wrong

 

[andrewbram]

That is very possible. However 4x80 have been ordered. Just debating on if I need the 5&6 one lol.

 

[DiscusHeckel]

In another thread, a reefer (bigE) advocates ATI coral + and ATI blue + in 1:1 ratio. Has anyone tried this combination? Coral colouration in his tank appears to be stunning.

 

[andrewbram]

That is Combe I run but I do like adding a purple plus to mine.

 

[DiscusHeckel]

That is Combe I run but I do like adding a purple plus to mine.

What is your experience in terms of coral growth? Any chance of a FTS?

 

[andrewbram]

Definitely research this beyond my own advice but I read somewhere that T5HO bulbs were most efficient at 54w 48" size. That suggests longer or shorter bulbs may not have as much par per watt as the 48" ones do. I could
Be wrong

I would love to read more about this can you pm a link. Or post one.

 

[andrewbram]

I don't have a fts as it was on my old 75g however getting ready to convert the 220 tank back to the t5. On my 75 4x54 gave me over 200 par on sand using let reflectors. Growth was great on that tank hoping to recreate it on new tank.

 

[TropTrea]

Definitely research this beyond my own advice but I read somewhere that T5HO bulbs were most efficient at 54w 48" size. That suggests longer or shorter bulbs may not have as much par per watt as the 48" ones do. I could
Be wrong

Yes this is true even with the T-12 Florescent Bulbs. But the difference is not that extrem and less than 5% difference.

36" = 39 Watts = 1.083 Watts per Inch, 700 Lums
48" = 54 Watts = 1.125 Watts per inch, 1,000 Lums
72" - 80 Watts = 1.11 Watts per inch , 1,400 Lums

 

[andrewbram]

Isn't it 60@80 watts. So 1.33333 wats per inch.

 

[DiscusHeckel]

Yes this is true even with the T-12 Florescent Bulbs. But the difference is not that extrem and less than 5% difference.

36" = 39 Watts = 1.083 Watts per Inch, 700 Lums
48" = 54 Watts = 1.125 Watts per inch, 1,000 Lums
72" - 80 Watts = 1.11 Watts per inch , 1,400 Lums

Is "watt per inch" still relevant as a good metric in these days?

 

[TropTrea]

Is "watt per inch" still relevant as a good metric in these days?

I was just showing it as a comparison between the bulbs.
"36" = 39 Watts = 1.083 Watts per Inch, 700 Lums
48" = 54 Watts = 1.125 Watts per inch, 1,000 Lums
72" - 80 Watts = 1.11 Watts per inch , 1,400 Lums "

You could convert it to lums per inch and you would see something like
36" = 19.4 Lum per inch
48" = 20.8 Lum per inch
72" = 19.4 Lums per inch

Or conver it to Lums per Watt
36" = 18.0 Lums per watt
48"= 18.5 Lums per Watt
72" = 17.5 Lums per Watt

While I know Lums are not a practical measurement for Reef lighting they do show a comparison between the effeciency of bulbs that someone was questioning. Also keep in mind that this data probably will vary between manufacturers as well as type of bulb. But the general trend should remain the same.

 

[ataller]

Time for my annual bulb replacement, and my annual visit to this thread. Sorry for mooching info

I am running right now

Back--

Blue+
Blue+
Coral+
AquaBlue
Coral+
Blue+
Purple+
Blue+

and a *Blue Reefbrite*

Front--

I find that my tastes tend towards a more blue color than I have been getting.

I am thinking of doing 5 Blue+, 2 Purple+, and 1 Coral+

Has anyone else had success with this combo? Think I should stick to just one purple+, and double up on the coral+?


What about KZ bulbs, they are more easily available now to me through BRS. Are they worth the extra cash?


Thanks

Adam

 

[TropTrea]

Time for my annual bulb replacement, and my annual visit to this thread. Sorry for mooching info

I am running right now

Back--

Blue+
Blue+
Coral+
AquaBlue
Coral+
Blue+
Purple+
Blue+

and a *Blue Reefbrite*

Front--

I find that my tastes tend towards a more blue color than I have been getting.

I am thinking of doing 5 Blue+, 2 Purple+, and 1 Coral+

Has anyone else had success with this combo? Think I should stick to just one purple+, and double up on the coral+?


What about KZ bulbs, they are more easily available now to me through BRS. Are they worth the extra cash?


Thanks

Adam

I think if you replace the Aqua Blue Special with a purple you will be getting a little to much blue purple of a color. I would rather see you swap out the Aqua Blue Special with a Coral Plus if want things more blue. The Coral Plus is not as white as the Aqua blue Special so the tank will pickup the blue and red tints much better. It also has a red element in it but not as much as the Purple Plus so you should not as much of a purple cast but closer to a truer blue cast.

 

[ataller]

Alright,

I will do
2x Coral+
5x Blue+
1x Purple+

Thanks,

Anyone have an opinion if the KZ bulbs are worth the premium over the ATI?

 

[andrewbram]

Trop will you please help answer my question

 

[TropTrea]

Isn't it 60@80 watts. So 1.33333 wats per inch.

yup both 60's and 72's are 80 watt. But 72" do not come in the special aquatic spectrums.