The T5 Q&a Thread - split

That's awesome. Much better spread than I thought. Thanks.

This is of course with an individual reflector on each bulb. If you were looking for punch, Id say much less coverage but for punching up the reds, oranges, and yellows, the purple bulbs go a long way
 
Anyone ever use a little air pump and have the air tubing directed right at the end cap area?

I think Ive heard of someone doing that, it may work if you can dial in the flow rate just right. Ive been looking and thinking about a way to enclose the retrofit T5s and integrate a fan but I haven't found any examples or ideas yet. Don't worry too much about this, the bulbs will work just fine without active airflow, you just get a bit better par and bulb life with proper airflow.
 
A different question entirely....


I'd like to add another 2 80w bulbs over my 210gal that currently has 3 led boxes and 2 80w bulbs, but I'm not certain I can squeeze in 2 more bulbs. If I were to only be able to add one more 80w bulb will the ballasts still pull full power from the wall or half power?

I'm using LET kits (hep ballasts) btw.


Thanks
 
A different question entirely....


I'd like to add another 2 80w bulbs over my 210gal that currently has 3 led boxes and 2 80w bulbs, but I'm not certain I can squeeze in 2 more bulbs. If I were to only be able to add one more 80w bulb will the ballasts still pull full power from the wall or half power?

I'm using LET kits (hep ballasts) btw.


Thanks

I don't know, in the lights I have its two bulbs per ballast. Maybe the MFG of the ballast has some info?
 
How well does the fiji do on the red end compared to coral plus or aquablue special?

These are for supplementing led to start. Maybe going back to all T5 eventually, but we'll see. I was going to do 2 actinic, 2 white full spectrum like aquablue special, and 2 to bring out reds. But if the aquablue special or coral plus do good enough with red, I can just do those and actinic for more even coverage, which is why I ask. Thanks.
 
How well does the fiji do on the red end compared to coral plus or aquablue special?

These are for supplementing led to start. Maybe going back to all T5 eventually, but we'll see. I was going to do 2 actinic, 2 white full spectrum like aquablue special, and 2 to bring out reds. But if the aquablue special or coral plus do good enough with red, I can just do those and actinic for more even coverage, which is why I ask. Thanks.
The coral plus is a combination of phosphors equivalent to 50% Blue Plus, 40% AquaBlue Special, 10% Purple Plus. To me it looks lavender but casts a pinkish hue that i don't like.

The Fiji Purple is similar but superior to the Purple Plus, more red than the coral plus. It doesn't overwhelm but adds a lot of richness to the color of the tank.
 
I'm wondering if I should replace my ati tubes. They are now 7mths old and run for about 8hrs a day.
Reasons why:

I recently put some Red Sea tubes on my frag tank, actinic 22k and their 15k tubes, they appear to my eye quite a bit brighter than my ati tubes.

Display tank has recently started to get cyano. I have been dosing fauna marin colour elements which I am unsure if they bring cyano on.

Either way the Red Sea tubes look great, 4 actinic 22k and 2 15k and it's a really nice not too blue not too white look IMO.
 
FM color elements can trigger cyano. In my tank I lowererd the dose partly because of this. ATI tubes, if cooled, should be good for about 10 months or more. If you like the red sea, though, give them some time and see what you think. You can always go back to the ATI or get new ATI then
 
I start replacing bulbs around 8 months. By the time I'm done they've been in around 9 months. They probably would last a tad longer, but that's long enough for me
 
+1

Here is my new Matrixx II Dimtec.


bulbs:

Blue+
Aquablue +
Super Act
Fiji
Blue+
Super Act
Gman Midday 6K
Blue+

Yea the matrixx is a nice fixture. The looks are the best I have seen in a T5 fixture ( it is a piece of art. I love the black glass top it really adds class)



I had my fans stop working on one Ati fixture over my frag tanks, I added a second frag tank so I bought the Matrixx to go over my main tank and was going to put my ATI fixture from my main tank over both frags. Well I did and now my other ATI fixtures fans don't work either.

Trying to get a pic of the matrixx is hard when the lights are on.

20150516_121436_zpstqumjacw.jpg


20150516_121302_zpspomamzdo.jpg
 
Yea the matrixx is a nice fixture. The looks are the best I have seen in a T5 fixture ( it is a piece of art. I love the black glass top it really adds class)



I had my fans stop working on one Ati fixture over my frag tanks, I added a second frag tank so I bought the Matrixx to go over my main tank and was going to put my ATI fixture from my main tank over both frags. Well I did and now my other ATI fixtures fans don't work either.

Trying to get a pic of the matrixx is hard when the lights are on.

20150516_121436_zpstqumjacw.jpg


20150516_121302_zpspomamzdo.jpg

That is a slick looking fixture for sure!
 
I have a 8 tube unit and change tubes every 12 months (well 1 tube every 6 weeks approx so it staggers it over the year) not for any reason apart from a year sounds right �� I never see no reason to change them quicker, and because I change one every 6 weeks it never makes a difference that I can see ��
 
That is a slick looking fixture for sure!

Yea it is, easy on the eyes, my girlfriend likes it too..
The powder coating is nice vs just a piece of bent aluminum. I always thought my ATI was sleek, i had the original powermodule T-5 which was the higher end fixture they stopped making.

Right now the Matrixx is white/black or black/black.. Can you imagine if Coralvue starts bringing in some of the other colors or they add like racing colors like red or blue..

I think they have a hit or at least something as a alternative to ATI on the t-5 front.
 
FM color elements can trigger cyano. In my tank I lowererd the dose partly because of this. ATI tubes, if cooled, should be good for about 10 months or more. If you like the red sea, though, give them some time and see what you think. You can always go back to the ATI or get new ATI then

Ah! that may explain it then, I'm dosing about 2.5ml per 100l so will lower to 1.5 or perhaps cut it out for a couple of weeks. siphon some out and keep up with wc etc.

i have asked claude on another forum but haven't had a response yet.

Ill leave the anti tubes in for now then, acro colours are all really good at the minute in any case :fun2:
 
Hello,
I have a 6 bulb 54w fixture to setup over a deep blue 60 frag tank,40g sump.
It has two ATI Blue Plus,two ATI Aquablue Special.. this is a temporary setup as I am doing a tank shuffle to make room for my 180.
The frag tank is 2'x4'x1' water depth is around 11-1/2"
Got a few to move around so everybody will be in this for a bit..
What bulbs would you recommend for the last two slots and how high off the water should the fixture be??....
Critter and coral list is here http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/blog.php?b=778
Eveything it that 40g breeder is going in the frag tank..
I have a par meter, just looking for a good starting place as to height or a value to aim for....

Thanks
 
Last edited:
Hello,
I have a 6 bulb 54w fixture to setup over a deep blue 60 frag tank,40g sump.
It has two ATI Blue Plus,two ATI Aquablue Special.. this is a temporary setup as I am doing a tank shuffle to make room for my 180.
The frag tank is 2'x4'x1' water depth is around 11-1/2"
Got a few to move around so everybody will be in this for a bit..
What bulbs would you recommend for the last two slots and how high off the water should the fixture be??....
Critter and coral list is here http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/blog.php?b=778
Eveything it that 40g breeder is going in the frag tank..
I have a par meter, just looking for a good starting place as to height or a value to aim for....

Thanks
I would add a Fiji Purple and another blue plus. Hang the light about 10-12" above the water based on spread to cover as much space as you can.
 
I'm using 4 T5:s since a year back in my Pacific Sun hybrid - Pandora S (2x145W LED).
The current setup is ATI C+ B+ C+ B+.
T
his gives me a rather white, crispy look. Green corals has a great "pop".

Someone said that B+ ABS P+ B+ maybe would better mix for getting more pop.
Do you agree with this or do you have another, better setup? I like a rather white look like I have today, but I could possibly live with a bit more blue if it gives me more pop.

I can choose between ATI, Aqua Science, Pacific Sun and Powerchrome tubes in my store.
 
If you like the look your getting now that is a great combo. I would suggest adding a ReefBright actinic strip for the extra blue pop.
 
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