The T5 Q&a Thread - split

It's for both color and growth. The Blue plus is a high PAR bulb that grows corals. See above re other brands. I have not seen better results under other mfg bulbs. The light should start at 10" above the water and my experience is no lower than 8" above the water for best results.

Thanks :)

And to add more growth I would need another Coral+ and drop a Blue+?

What are your thoughts about adding ReefBrites to get the LED pop?
 
Hello T5 Advocates. I am making the switch to either MH+T5 or T5 only from my LED setup. Heat and electricity are some of the concerns with the hybrid. Also the up-front and ongoing costs.

I have a standard 125 with a cost to coast overflow, that means the aquarium is effectively narrower than the actual 18". I am looking at G-Mann Matrix II 60" fixtures on the T5 side. I know everyone says the ATI fixtures push more PAR, but the research I have done suggest the G-Mann pushes enough par anyway. Looks and component quality are also more important than maximum par at the moment since the tank is in my formal living room and has no hood.

1. Compared to a 60" 2x250W SE + 4x80W T5 Spectra, will I get similar or perhaps better results PAR/Spread wise?
2. Will I be able to grow SPS in mostly the top half of the aquarium, possibly a little lower if I wanted to?
3. Everyone seems to use the ATI bulbs, are the G-Mann's that bad?
4. I assume since the G-Mann has 1 cord/2 bulbs, I can just not plug in one set and only use 6 bulbs? It seems that I can't find a 6 bulb fixture. This is fine, because we are planning an upgrade to a wider tank down the road anyway.
5. I also assume, the ballasts control 1 bulb on each end, working inward?
 
Thanks :)

And to add more growth I would need another Coral+ and drop a Blue+?

What are your thoughts about adding ReefBrites to get the LED pop?
Theoretically yes, coral Plus put out more full spectrum light and may be better for growth. The truth about these T5 bulbs is that there are very little differences between the white bulbs from a high level - all of them have large Blue peaks, then they vary the levels of the green and red peak. Some have a bit of yellow and orange along with the red peak. The good thing about that is you can set up the mix based on your visual preference without worrying that the corals wont do well.

I've heard just as many stories of Reefbrites causing problems as stories of people who have run them long term with good results. The ATI fixtures put out a ton of PAR, it seems like overkill to add the reefbrite personally.
 
Hello T5 Advocates. I am making the switch to either MH+T5 or T5 only from my LED setup. Heat and electricity are some of the concerns with the hybrid. Also the up-front and ongoing costs.

I have a standard 125 with a cost to coast overflow, that means the aquarium is effectively narrower than the actual 18". I am looking at G-Mann Matrix II 60" fixtures on the T5 side. I know everyone says the ATI fixtures push more PAR, but the research I have done suggest the G-Mann pushes enough par anyway. Looks and component quality are also more important than maximum par at the moment since the tank is in my formal living room and has no hood.

1. Compared to a 60" 2x250W SE + 4x80W T5 Spectra, will I get similar or perhaps better results PAR/Spread wise?
2. Will I be able to grow SPS in mostly the top half of the aquarium, possibly a little lower if I wanted to?
3. Everyone seems to use the ATI bulbs, are the G-Mann's that bad?
4. I assume since the G-Mann has 1 cord/2 bulbs, I can just not plug in one set and only use 6 bulbs? It seems that I can't find a 6 bulb fixture. This is fine, because we are planning an upgrade to a wider tank down the road anyway.
5. I also assume, the ballasts control 1 bulb on each end, working inward?

1. An actively cooled and properly set up(read ATI) fixture can put out more PAR than 250Watt MH with large reflectors.

2. On my 22" tall tank I had par of ~300-350 on the sand. You can grow SPS anywhere with a proper fixture.
3. Giesemanns new bulbs are good, but the ATIs seem to last longer without losing PAR.
4. Yes, you can run only 6 of the 8 bulbs if you want to.
5. Sorry, no clue
 
Hello T5 Advocates. I am making the switch to either MH+T5 or T5 only from my LED setup. Heat and electricity are some of the concerns with the hybrid. Also the up-front and ongoing costs.

I have a standard 125 with a cost to coast overflow, that means the aquarium is effectively narrower than the actual 18". I am looking at G-Mann Matrix II 60" fixtures on the T5 side. I know everyone says the ATI fixtures push more PAR, but the research I have done suggest the G-Mann pushes enough par anyway. Looks and component quality are also more important than maximum par at the moment since the tank is in my formal living room and has no hood.

1. Compared to a 60" 2x250W SE + 4x80W T5 Spectra, will I get similar or perhaps better results PAR/Spread wise?
2. Will I be able to grow SPS in mostly the top half of the aquarium, possibly a little lower if I wanted to?
3. Everyone seems to use the ATI bulbs, are the G-Mann's that bad?
4. I assume since the G-Mann has 1 cord/2 bulbs, I can just not plug in one set and only use 6 bulbs? It seems that I can't find a 6 bulb fixture. This is fine, because we are planning an upgrade to a wider tank down the road anyway.
5. I also assume, the ballasts control 1 bulb on each end, working inward?

What you said on par is so true. A few par one way or another is not going to make no difference now a days anyway. We focus on par way to much. If you buy a quality MH, led or t-5 fixture with good lamps you will be fine for par anyway. To me par is a mute point and were are getting to the point of photoinhibition for some corals.

I use Giesemann bulbs and do lots of others and they are fine. I actually prefer them and have switched over from ATI bulbs to Giesimann on all my t-5 fixtures and it is just preference, The colors just feel better and growth seems better but it is anecdotal, there are so many factors that can affect color and growth. When I switched out my my tank for the Matrixx and also at the same time received sample Giesemann lamps my colors and growth just took off and I have not wanted to change. I hit the right spectrum for my eyes and corals with the combination of Giesemann bulbs, does not mean it is the Same for you and their are other brands of t-5 bulbs that are good too...

Honestly it comes down to taste really and what you like.
I like the Giesemann Matrixx look better. ATI and Giesemann both make decent fixtures. I own a Giesemann Matrixx II, I own two ATI fixtures both a powermodule and a ATI Sunpower. The Matrixx just feels more rugged and well built but time will tell. It is also a little heavier fixture if that makes a difference too and it might to some people, The top is Glass on the Matrixx.


The advantage with the cords goes to Matrixx they have one cord per two lamp ballast. My ATI fixture has one two lamp ballast on one cord and two two lamp ballast on one cord so 4 lamps com on at one time.

Honestly I never looked at what ballast controlled what bulb.

Both fixtures should be able to grow anything top to bottom depending on depth of your aquarium, as long as 24" or less.
 
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Theoretically yes, coral Plus put out more full spectrum light and may be better for growth. The truth about these T5 bulbs is that there are very little differences between the white bulbs from a high level - all of them have large Blue peaks, then they vary the levels of the green and red peak. Some have a bit of yellow and orange along with the red peak. The good thing about that is you can set up the mix based on your visual preference without worrying that the corals wont do well.

I've heard just as many stories of Reefbrites causing problems as stories of people who have run them long term with good results. The ATI fixtures put out a ton of PAR, it seems like overkill to add the reefbrite personally.


Just wanted to get that extra pop from the corals without sacrificing growth.

Thanks for your help Matt!!! I will try out that bulb combo. You have a beautiful tank by the way!
 
Hey Matt. You should try that Ge6500k bulb or the giesemann tropic bulb in one of your combos. I would like to know your thoughts on it. I see nobody runs them in their combos anymore. When I ran all t5 lights I really liked it and had great results. I ran 5 blue plus 2 Fiji purple and 1 Ge bulb. I just wanted to hear your opinions.
I switched to halide-t5-led combo for now and was just curious for future reference. The Grimm reefer used to recommend it when he was on here.
 
Hey Matt. You should try that Ge6500k bulb or the giesemann tropic bulb in one of your combos. I would like to know your thoughts on it. I see nobody runs them in their combos anymore. When I ran all t5 lights I really liked it and had great results. I ran 5 blue plus 2 Fiji purple and 1 Ge bulb. I just wanted to hear your opinions.
I switched to halide-t5-led combo for now and was just curious for future reference. The Grimm reefer used to recommend it when he was on here.

I believe he went away from recommending it toward the end. It works, no doubt, but it puts off a lot of yellow.

Over my SPS tank I have 14 bulbs - 2 Aquablue Azure, 2 Fiji Purple, 4 Coral Plus, 2 Blue Pop LED tubes, and 4 blue plus. I have tons of PAR, so I don't have to compromise on visual appeal with a bulb that doesn't look good.
IMG_2295_zpssefbzqwp.jpg


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Yeah it does put out a lot of yellow I had blues and purples on each side to tone it down. I like it better than the aqua blue special.
I see you run the azure bulb. Is that similar to an aqua blue special?
 
Yeah it does put out a lot of yellow I had blues and purples on each side to tone it down. I like it better than the aqua blue special.
I see you run the azure bulb. Is that similar to an aqua blue special?

No, the AquaBlue azure is a very pure bluish white. Almost zero yellow.
 
Theoretically yes, coral Plus put out more full spectrum light and may be better for growth. The truth about these T5 bulbs is that there are very little differences between the white bulbs from a high level - all of them have large Blue peaks, then they vary the levels of the green and red peak. Some have a bit of yellow and orange along with the red peak. The good thing about that is you can set up the mix based on your visual preference without worrying that the corals wont do well.

I've heard just as many stories of Reefbrites causing problems as stories of people who have run them long term with good results. The ATI fixtures put out a ton of PAR, it seems like overkill to add the reefbrite personally.

Can you describe what problems you have heard regarding the Reefbrites???

Thanks in advance...
 
Can you describe what problems you have heard regarding the Reefbrites???

Thanks in advance...

I haven't had problems since I don't use them. I have heard of corals showing signs of stress and or bleaching that went away when the Reefbrite was shut off.
 
Just swapped from LED to an ATI 6 bulb 60" fixture, wont be going back to led, this thing is a monster. Any thought on the E5's? I was thinking of running a single "blue bop".

Right now I have 1-purple plus, 2-actinic, 3-blue plus, and I love the look. I was running with a super blue but It revealed all of the algae and now it's in the back of the closet.
 
Just swapped from LED to an ATI 6 bulb 60" fixture, wont be going back to led, this thing is a monster. Any thought on the E5's? I was thinking of running a single "blue bop".

Right now I have 1-purple plus, 2-actinic, 3-blue plus, and I love the look. I was running with a super blue but It revealed all of the algae and now it's in the back of the closet.

They are pretty nice. I replaced one actinic with one and one actinic blue and they add a little extra pop.. I always liked the pop you got with royal blues.
They sag a little, mine rest on the acrylic shield. They are much cooler in temperature. They do not add a ton but defiantly add some extra pop.
I have not tested them for par.
I also have not tested them for draw, they are supposed to save on energy.
Since they are cooler in temperature I am sure they do.
 
Just swapped from LED to an ATI 6 bulb 60" fixture, wont be going back to led, this thing is a monster. Any thought on the E5's? I was thinking of running a single "blue bop".

Right now I have 1-purple plus, 2-actinic, 3-blue plus, and I love the look. I was running with a super blue but It revealed all of the algae and now it's in the back of the closet.

Im running two Blue Pop tubes right now. So far I like them, they are definitely a deeper shade of blue than a blue plus.
 
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