The T5 Q&a Thread

[The Grim Reefer]

1st time in a LONG time posting!

Setup: 46G Bowfront
8 x 39W t-5's.
I have 15% SPS, 15% Softies, 70% LPS.

I would like the bluest spectrum possible with the most juice. The BEST of the BEST only for my SPS and my scolys ;o)

Your help would be very much Appreciated!

Thank You!

6 ATI Blue Plus, 1 ATI Aquablue and 1 UVL Actinic White

 

[gweston]

Setting up for a 72" 125 gallon tank. Thoughts on this?

Looking to run IceCap 660's(overdriven). Plenty of cooling, and the tank will be in a finished basement. Cooler temps down there. I am building a hood and will use retrofit mounts.

6x 80w 60" bulbs, staggered placement. This gives better coverage across the tank. The most light in the central area of the tank. The outer edges (6") on each end get less obviously.

I want good color, some blue. But not super blue. Tank will be a mix of SPS, LPS, and Maxima Clam(s).

Bulbs:

Front:
ATI Blue Plus
KZ Fiji Purple Or Geiseman Pink
ATI Aqua Blue Special or KZ New Gen
Geiseman 6k Mid Day
ATI Aqua Blue Special or KZ New Gen
ATI Blue Plus

 

[fraggleRocks]

Grim, ive been lurking a while and have finally decided to ask you a question about my T5's.

I have a 33 gallon long with a 4x54 watt setup. 1 single reflector (yes i know, blah ) Im using it as a separate prop tank for mainly SPS right now (softies have thier own dedicated tank)

Question is, what bulbs should I use that stimulate the fastest growth? I do care somewhat about color from an asthetically pleasing point of view , and dont mind supplementing with a few actinics to keep the tank looking nice...

also, the tank is 13" tall, the SPS is currently setup in the top 1/3rd of the tank, with the tips being approx 1" from waters surface, eggcrate is set at 3" below waters surface, and the lights are 4" above the water. Is this placement suitable for the current lighting I have over the SPS? Also can I successfully keep acans and monti's in the same system? if so, where should they be placed in this tank?

Right now I have crappy bulbs that came with the fixture. They are 2 54watt WavePoint Actinic 460 bulbs, and 2 WavePoint 12K or 6500K bulbs (not sure which, the model numbers have since rubbed off...)

I want to change all the bulbs soon, what would you recommend? also with your recommendation for the new bulbs, will thier current placement be optimal for thier growth and well-being or should I move them lower?



I also have a 75 gallon tank (21.5inches tall) 6x54 watt t5 fixture with individual reflectors. I keep a mixture of SPS on top 1/3rd and have mushrooms on the sandbed. My bulbs are questionable at this point, i bought the unit used and dont know the brands/spectrums of the bulbs. I would like to change bulbs soon, what do you think I should use?

I like a more "blue" look, it does'nt bother me. I'd like to go for overall growth and color, and also have some reds and orange colors stand out (fiji purple looked great). What do you think? I want to make sure everybody is happy and healthy, especially the sps.

Thank you so much

 

[kimberlee]

Hey grim everyone's asking you, so you must know. My tanks 17" 55gal, I'd like to get a clam, but I,m not sure how much I need to upgrade my lights.I have one t-5 light fixture w/ 2 bulbs, 1 10,000k and 1 6500k actinic??

 

[rtparty]

Grim, ive been lurking a while and have finally decided to ask you a question about my T5's.

I have a 33 gallon long with a 4x54 watt setup. 1 single reflector (yes i know, blah ) Im using it as a separate prop tank for mainly SPS right now (softies have thier own dedicated tank)

Question is, what bulbs should I use that stimulate the fastest growth? I do care somewhat about color from an asthetically pleasing point of view , and dont mind supplementing with a few actinics to keep the tank looking nice...

also, the tank is 13" tall, the SPS is currently setup in the top 1/3rd of the tank, with the tips being approx 1" from waters surface, eggcrate is set at 3" below waters surface, and the lights are 4" above the water. Is this placement suitable for the current lighting I have over the SPS? Also can I successfully keep acans and monti's in the same system? if so, where should they be placed in this tank?

Right now I have crappy bulbs that came with the fixture. They are 2 54watt WavePoint Actinic 460 bulbs, and 2 WavePoint 12K or 6500K bulbs (not sure which, the model numbers have since rubbed off...)

I want to change all the bulbs soon, what would you recommend? also with your recommendation for the new bulbs, will thier current placement be optimal for thier growth and well-being or should I move them lower?



I also have a 75 gallon tank (21.5inches tall) 6x54 watt t5 fixture with individual reflectors. I keep a mixture of SPS on top 1/3rd and have mushrooms on the sandbed. My bulbs are questionable at this point, i bought the unit used and dont know the brands/spectrums of the bulbs. I would like to change bulbs soon, what do you think I should use?

I like a more "blue" look, it does'nt bother me. I'd like to go for overall growth and color, and also have some reds and orange colors stand out (fiji purple looked great). What do you think? I want to make sure everybody is happy and healthy, especially the sps.

Thank you so much

On the 4 bulb go with 2 ATI Blue Plus, 1 KZ Fiji Purple and 1 ATI Aquablue.

For 6 bulb I would go with 3 ATI Blue Plus, 2 KZ New Generation and 1 KZ Fiji Purple.

 

[Mike de Leon]

Have a mini stealth 6x54 and it's a piece of crap.

As long as the lamp ends are being cooled and not the centers I will assume the cooling is OK.

Ouch! I would never refer to an ATI as such although I now think the quality of Sfiligoi is way better, JMO though.

<a href="http://s68.photobucket.com/albums/i21/mookerji/?action=view&current=lightingIII005.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i21/mookerji/lightingIII005.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

I have yet to cut the cables. It is a good fixture. Very bright like the ATI. No fans showing but cooling is excellent. I ended up bleaching most corals...

 

[Atlantus]

Just wondering out loud for a moment. If you are not overdriving your T5 lights do you still need to cool the ends with a fan? I am going to have a retro kit in my canopy and it has an open back. Will this be enough or will I need to add a fan blowing across the label ends as well?

Atm I am waiting on my T5 kit to arrive when I get it install will let everyone know how I like it.

Thanks

Clint

 

[westreef]

Hi Grim,
I have 5 54W overdriven by Icecap. They are not IceCap lamps. I heard these non-IceCap lamps will have shorter life being overdriven. How often do I have to change them? Or should I replace them with those IceCap lamps?

 

[The Grim Reefer]

Setting up for a 72" 125 gallon tank. Thoughts on this?

Looking to run IceCap 660's(overdriven). Plenty of cooling, and the tank will be in a finished basement. Cooler temps down there. I am building a hood and will use retrofit mounts.

6x 80w 60" bulbs, staggered placement. This gives better coverage across the tank. The most light in the central area of the tank. The outer edges (6") on each end get less obviously.

I want good color, some blue. But not super blue. Tank will be a mix of SPS, LPS, and Maxima Clam(s).

Bulbs:

Front:
ATI Blue Plus
KZ Fiji Purple Or Geiseman Pink
ATI Aqua Blue Special or KZ New Gen
Geiseman 6k Mid Day
ATI Aqua Blue Special or KZ New Gen
ATI Blue Plus

I'd use a Blue Plus in the 5th slot instead of a second Aquablue or new gen.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

Hey grim everyone's asking you, so you must know. My tanks 17" 55gal, I'd like to get a clam, but I,m not sure how much I need to upgrade my lights.I have one t-5 light fixture w/ 2 bulbs, 1 10,000k and 1 6500k actinic??

You'd want a decent 4 lamp fixture or retrofit.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

Ouch! I would never refer to an ATI as such although I now think the quality of Sfiligoi is way better, JMO though.

<a href="http://s68.photobucket.com/albums/i21/mookerji/?action=view&current=lightingIII005.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i21/mookerji/lightingIII005.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

I have yet to cut the cables. It is a good fixture. Very bright like the ATI. No fans showing but cooling is excellent. I ended up bleaching most corals...

The housing is well built BUT. The ballasts are too tall for the reflectors to clear them so rather than raise up the support brackets the end caps and reflectors mounted too they placed some plastic spacers under the reflectors to raise them, which makes some of them rub the lamps where the ballasts are because they still don't quite clear, makes changing bulbs a blast. Also has lousy PAR, less than a Tek. I assume having the reflector too close to that lamp is part of it but there is also no venting where the ballasts are so I imaging the lamps cooking them doesn't help either.

 

[dup532]

The clams would love it but the LPS aren't gonna like it. I have to shade my LPS in my tank or have it on the very edges. All of my LPS are on the bottom of my tank. My tank is 16" tall with a 1" sandbed. Light is about 7-8" off the water surface.

I fear you would totally fry all of your LPS not on the bottom of the tank. I would be looking at the Tek fixtures myself.

I don't think Tek makes a 6 bulb 24watt fixture. Do I even need a 6 bulb fixture? Someone stated that a 4 bulb fixture wouldn't be much of an upgrade to the stock rsm 130 lighting. If so would a ATI sunpower or Coralvue T5/LED 6 Bulb Fixture be the better choice?

Thanks

 

[The Grim Reefer]

Just wondering out loud for a moment. If you are not overdriving your T5 lights do you still need to cool the ends with a fan? I am going to have a retro kit in my canopy and it has an open back. Will this be enough or will I need to add a fan blowing across the label ends as well?

Atm I am waiting on my T5 kit to arrive when I get it install will let everyone know how I like it.

Thanks

Clint

You don't have to but it will have more output, as much as 20% if you do.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

Hi Grim,
I have 5 54W overdriven by Icecap. They are not IceCap lamps. I heard these non-IceCap lamps will have shorter life being overdriven. How often do I have to change them? Or should I replace them with those IceCap lamps?

I'd give them about 10 months. A local is running the IC lamps and having lousy results. I would stick with what you have.

 

[NaClCrocodile]

Hey Grim, I've got a 6x24w ATI PM with 4 Blue +, an Aquablue Special, and a KZ Fiji Purple. The best way for me to get an even look whether I'm on sunrise/sunset or full daylight is to use the four Blue + on the same circuit. Is using all four Blue+ as a sunrise/sunset a problem? I feel like it may blast them with PAR being that they are powerhouses. The other way to get an even look is to have a Blue + and the Fiji Purple on the two bulb circuit. The problem there is that I'd lose the nice actinic dawn/dusk. Thanks in advance!
Cayman

 

[The Grim Reefer]

Hey Grim, I've got a 6x24w ATI PM with 4 Blue +, an Aquablue Special, and a KZ Fiji Purple. The best way for me to get an even look whether I'm on sunrise/sunset or full daylight is to use the four Blue + on the same circuit. Is using all four Blue+ as a sunrise/sunset a problem? I feel like it may blast them with PAR being that they are powerhouses. The other way to get an even look is to have a Blue + and the Fiji Purple on the two bulb circuit. The problem there is that I'd lose the nice actinic dawn/dusk. Thanks in advance!
Cayman

Running 4 blue plus is a lot of light for dusk/dawn. Have you tried running the Blue Plus Fiji Purple pair with the fiji in front and the Blue in back, slots 2 and 5 I think, It looks pretty cool.

 

[tbone28]

Running 4 blue plus is a lot of light for dusk/dawn. Have you tried running the Blue Plus Fiji Purple pair with the fiji in front and the Blue in back, slots 2 and 5 I think, It looks pretty cool.

I run Fiji Purple and Blue Plus for dusk/dawn and I agree with grim. It's a cool look

 

[Mike de Leon]

The housing is well built BUT. The ballasts are too tall for the reflectors to clear them so rather than raise up the support brackets the end caps and reflectors mounted too they placed some plastic spacers under the reflectors to raise them, which makes some of them rub the lamps where the ballasts are because they still don't quite clear, makes changing bulbs a blast. Also has lousy PAR, less than a Tek. I assume having the reflector too close to that lamp is part of it but there is also no venting where the ballasts are so I imaging the lamps cooking them doesn't help either.

When was the last time you tested one? There are no spacers under the reflectors which do not touch the ballasts at all. The reflectors have enough space between them and the bulbs. The fans are directly beside the ballasts so that everything is cool to touch. The whole top of the unit has a screen vent. And yes, I can change a 60 inch bulb with ease.
So most, if not, all of your information here is incorrect. Sorry to say but I see a lot of BIAS here that is so obvious.

When was the last time you have tested a unit to say that par is less than a Tek?
I do respect your knowledge when it comes to lights but not all information you do provide to us here has enough back bone. Regards

 

[Almenmarine]

When was the last time you tested one? Did you There are no spacers under the reflectors which do not touch the ballasts at all. The reflectors have enough space between them and the bulbs. The fans are directly beside the ballasts so that everything is cool to touch. The whole top of the unit has a screen vent. So most, if not, all of your information here is incorrect. Sorry to say but I see a lot of BIAS here that is so obvious.

When was the last time you have tested a unit to say that par is less than a Tek?
I do respect your knowledge when it comes to lights but not all information you do provide to us here has enough back bone. Regards

dang

 

[rtparty]

When was the last time you tested one? There are no spacers under the reflectors which do not touch the ballasts at all. The reflectors have enough space between them and the bulbs. The fans are directly beside the ballasts so that everything is cool to touch. The whole top of the unit has a screen vent. And yes, I can change a 60 inch bulb with ease.
So most, if not, all of your information here is incorrect. Sorry to say but I see a lot of BIAS here that is so obvious.

When was the last time you have tested a unit to say that par is less than a Tek?
I do respect your knowledge when it comes to lights but not all information you do provide to us here has enough back bone. Regards

So let me get this right Mike, Grim buys the fixture, tests it, finds problems with it and states those issues. So now he has no back bone? His experience and info is worth nothing?

He very clearly said that the unit he had (which is an older unit) is a piece of crap. His opinion and he has his reasons to form that opinion. Same reason I find the Current USA and Ebay Specials to be crap. I have bought them, used them and didn't like them.

What bias is there in the thread? Those of us that actually provide knowledge and helpful information have all based our opinions on our experience and help from others. To date, no one has tested the new Sfiligoi fixtures. Since you just spent so much on one, how about buying a PAR meter and showing us the results? I, for one, would love to see some results on them. I've searched high and low to find anything on them. The people that buy them, don't test them. Why?

I promote ATI because I own one and run one. The results I get are great and plenty of people have thrown PAR meters on them to show the proof. I can't afford a PAR meter or I would certainly test mine out too.

I guess if I spent that much money on a lighting fixture I would defend it too, no matter what.