The T5 Q&a Thread

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Not a t5 question, but this thread is the best for lighting info.

Someone is selling this locally:

Current USA Outer Orbit 2x150MH 2x130pc for $500 with new bulbs. So about $100 more than the T5 setup I was looking at. After reading the entire thread it seems like some are switching back to MH. Opinions on the Outer Orbit vs the Aquactinic 5-bulb t5? I need to decide by Sunday or I lose it. =(

Only problem is that again it's 15" wide and my tank is 13" at the smallest (72g bow) so I have overhang issues, same as the Tek 6-bulb.

Thanks.

Oh Grim, are you in Aurora OH? I think every state is required to have a city named Aurora. I know of 4 so far...
 
What is the depth/length of your 72bow.The 72bow i saw online was 48"L x 24" deep.Width from the back to the center of the bow was 18".
I think with your 13" width at narrowest point,a 4x54w T5/IC660 retro would work well.
I'm not too familiar with those fixtures you listed.The dual150/dual PC fixture i definately wouldn't buy($500,you can buy the above retro for $360).Personally,I'm not a big fan of the majority of the fixtures made in this hobby.Many use cheap components and are poorly designed IMO.
With a retro,it gives you the option to re-install the ligthing over a different tank in case you decide to upgrade later.You also are assured of getting high quality components.
 
Thanks. I don't have a canopy yet and am not quite sure I can make one I would like. The curved front isn't easy for woodworking. I've heard it's a decent fixture but was curious as to MH/PC combo over the T5s. There have been a couple of threads about some things not doing as well under T5s and I notice some of the people on this thread saying they were using MH still. Just wondering if T5s were the cheaper alternative but MH was preferred.

edit: oh yea, that's the dimensions of my bowfront as well.
 
mj, a standard 72g bow will do fine under 4x54 of normally driven t5ho.

overdriven may be ok for more high light corals, but some softies and LPS may not like it. this is all dependent on your bulb choice though, since some bulbs make more par than others.

as far as the canopy, the curved front is easy when you use tongue and groove boards. a friend of mine has botha 72g bow and a 92g corner, and thats how he made his canopies.
 
I agree its not necessary to overdrive them with an IC ballast although it sure is nice having the extra PAR,especially considering its 24"depth.
I use the same 4x54w/IC660 on my 75 and keep primarily LPS.Its not as deep either as a 72bow.
Horkn makes a good point on the canopy design,another option is to simply build a rectangular box/pendant to mount the lighting hardware in and suspend it.I'm planning on building something similiar for my 40breeder,lighting will be 4x39wT5/Advance Centium/SLR's.
 
here are the specs of a 72 bowfront right off of AGA's website

72 BF*


48x18x22

i was pretty sure that a 72g bow was not as deep as a std 90g that is actually 24" tall.

add in 2-3 " of sand, and that makes the 72 BF 19-20" deep. it really does not need to be overdriven
 
Alot of people like to use the 6 bulb T5 setups on 18" wide tanks.
With the IC ballast,you only need 4.
Doesnt matter if you go with a spec ballast retro or if you want to overdrive them with an IC retro,both will work well for your application.I prefer more PAR,less bulbs,thats why i like the IC retro.
 
Here's a pick of my 72G under my new Aquactinics 5X54W T5 unit. 3Blue+ and 2 Aquablues. Very nice and bright and the colors are very good. I will be metering SPS colors to see what it does with a BLUER spectrum compared to my MH system.
15hfj7m.jpg
 
Thanks Lionfan...I'm following your posting closely since you and I have the same tank, skimmer and now lights...

Dave, the problem with the bow is that it starts at 12" and bows to 18", so any lights 15" wide either hang over the front or the back
 
I have a 150g tank that is 28 inches high, and I think I am hearing that anything over 24 inches should probably use HM instead of the T5. I have read most of this thread, and it seems that Grim is of that opinion. I just want to make sure my understanding of this is correct before I spend 1k on the MH setup. I would like to keep all kinds of coral.

Also, this setup http://www.aquactinics.com/Products/MH_T5_Systems.htm
states that heat isn't a problem. That seems to be contrary to what I have read in this thread w/ MH. Is there setup really revolutionary or just sneaky marketing?

Thanks in advance for the help. Grim, great job, seems you know your stuff and it is great you help everyone the way you have done. :thumbsup:
 
Sloth, Either Aquactinics fixture ( I have both) will have no heating problems. The MH with supplemental T5 is so cool it's incredible. Take it from me I know I have the 48" and the 48" Straight 5 bulb T5 fixture, just as good. Good luck in whatever you choose!!!
 
If your going to spend the money, I would get the Icecap upgrade. It drives the MH's better and brighter on most bulbs. Like REEFLUX. Remember now you are buying SE bulbs with the fixture not DE. Do you know the difference? Most people I think like to go with the DE not SE which are Mogul Sockets( Screw in Bulbs).
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7623462#post7623462 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Lionfan
Sloth, Either Aquactinics fixture ( I have both) will have no heating problems. The MH with supplemental T5 is so cool it's incredible. Take it from me I know I have the 48" and the 48" Straight 5 bulb T5 fixture, just as good. Good luck in whatever you choose!!!
Click to expand...
Do they make that 5 bulb T5 fixture in a straight alignment?On there site,they have 5 reflectors crammed into a V shaped formation measuring 9.5".Thats less than 2" per reflector.With that V shaped arrangement,i would think it would be hard to reflect the light close to perpindicular to the waters surface compared to a typical fixture arrangment.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7623535#post7623535 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Lionfan
If your going to spend the money, I would get the Icecap upgrade. It drives the MH's better and brighter on most bulbs. Like REEFLUX. Remember now you are buying SE bulbs with the fixture not DE. Do you know the difference? Most people I think like to go with the DE not SE which are Mogul Sockets( Screw in Bulbs).
Click to expand...

If you look at Sanjay's testing results you will see Ice Cap halide ballasts run lamps at a little lower wattage than most ballasts. That lowers heat a smidgen and probably extends the life a bit but doesn't run the lamp brighter.
 
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