The T5 Q&a Thread

[horkn]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7817338#post7817338 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by uf-engineer
I’ve read conflicting points of view on this. I'm trying to get a straight answer. Do T5s get as hot at MHs?

I’m looking for lighting on a 90 AGA, 24” tall. I’m considering either 2 -250 watt MH or 6-8 T5s. I have two fans in my canopy for cooling. A chiller is out of the question.

Thanks

many 90g owners here on RC run 6x54 of t5ho with good refelctors, and not overdriven, and have sweet tanks that grow anything. you really dont need more than 6 bulbs on a 90.

i myslef have a 90 that i am slooowwwwwwly getting the equipment for. If i were to light it with all t5ho, like my 35g, i would run 6x54w t5ho, with icecap reflectors, and triad, advance, or any other spec t5ho ballasts.

however, i am not going sloely t5ho, and I am removing the centerbrace, euro mod bracing the tank, and running a centrally mounted 250w DE mh (14k or so) and hopefully 4x54 of t5ho in super actinic, and blue+ or actinic plus maybe a AB in there for a less tidy bowl look when the halide isnt on. it looks as if i may only be able to run 3x54 of t5h due to space constraints in a 18" front to back tank. if i can find a thin but good DE MH housing/ reflector, then i may be able to go with 4x54 of t5 along with the MH.

the best tanks i have seen use mh and t5ho. shimmer, and less heat than 2x250 mh, and a little less electricity used even with all the bulbs on at the same time. but the point of me running mh/t5 is that i can run the mh for 4-6 hours, and use the t5 the rest of the day, depending on bulb choice and whatnot.

 

[horkn]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7819936#post7819936 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by vanceny
would the lower light clams (deresa) need to be up high in the tank or could they be on the sand? If they can be on the sand, then could a maxima or crocea be high up and survive? (with the aquatinic or 6 bulb tek)

Thanks for taking the time out to answer.

well, in january i got a 2.5" squamosa. I put it on the substrate. my lighting is 3x39w of t5ho with aqualux CDR's, and not overdriven on my 17" tall 35g.

it is doing really well, and is much bigger now, and is very successful at sucking up calcium in my tank. i should really top off with kalkwasser, but i dont add anything besides 5g new saltwater every 2 weeks. I guarantee if i had been dosing kalk all along in topoff, the clam would be much larger

also, the blue colors that have come out in the clam are amazing.

 

[horkn]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7820927#post7820927 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by vessxpress1
Hi Grim. Don't know if you caught my other thread (it got buried quick) but my junky dual 96 W PC hood just had a bulb go out today and apparently that socket isn't working now because I tried another one and no go. The bulbs are current sunpaqs and were 5 months old.

So I only have one 10,000/6700 k 96 W over my tank right now and I'm nervous as hell. I have a 10" BTA in there and I don't want it to move at all! I was looking to upgrade next year because my bulbs were middle aged, but after this I need to upgrade now.

I have a 38 gal. tank that is 12" front to back, 3' long. It is mixed with my BTA, and many different LPS and softies. I have a ton of questions but I'll try to keep to the most important ones.

First, I want a Tek unit. After reading a lot here, I'm afraid to go with the 6 bulb set up for this tank now. Should I just buy the 4 x 39? And should I get the SLR reflectors right away or just wait and see how the tank responds?

Which do you think are the best bulbs and how would you configure a 4 bulb set up on this? The PCs were one half and half 10,000k/6700k and one 6700k/460nm. I think the light was a little too yellow for my taste. I'd like a natural look with a little more blue, but mainly what will grow coral the best. That's my main concern. The T-5 pics I've seen look great!

Next, sorry for the dumb question but why is everybody upgrading the balast on these to icecaps and overdriving them? Is this necessary or is it mainly part of the struggle to have the best lighting system here? I just would like to know if it's worth it, as in, the balasts that come with the unit aren't good enough?

I'd be thrilled if you could let me know soon. I'm ready to order a new light tonight.

Sorry for the bombardment of questions but I've naturally gravitated to this thread.

ok, your tank is similarly sixed to my 35g. i run 3x39 on it. in a tank of your size, you do not need to, and i wouldnt even recommend running an IC ballast, as it will overdrive the lamps a lot, and make too much light for a tank your size. the tek unit ballasts are just fine. if you want a tek light, get the 4 bulb unit, anything else will bee too much, and will not fit over a tank that is 12 front to back. my tank is the same front to back as yours, and thats why i am running 3 x39, but my reflectors are wider than most at a tad over 3" each. had i designed my canopy better, i could fit an IC or a tek reflector in there along with the 3 other bulbs, but i find out after a year and a half of t5ho on my tak, i dont need more light. if anything i need less light, but that can be accomplished with a different choice of bulbs.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7820927#post7820927 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by vessxpress1
Hi Grim. Don't know if you caught my other thread (it got buried quick) but my junky dual 96 W PC hood just had a bulb go out today and apparently that socket isn't working now because I tried another one and no go. The bulbs are current sunpaqs and were 5 months old.

So I only have one 10,000/6700 k 96 W over my tank right now and I'm nervous as hell. I have a 10" BTA in there and I don't want it to move at all! I was looking to upgrade next year because my bulbs were middle aged, but after this I need to upgrade now.

I have a 38 gal. tank that is 12" front to back, 3' long. It is mixed with my BTA, and many different LPS and softies. I have a ton of questions but I'll try to keep to the most important ones.

First, I want a Tek unit. After reading a lot here, I'm afraid to go with the 6 bulb set up for this tank now. Should I just buy the 4 x 39? And should I get the SLR reflectors right away or just wait and see how the tank responds?

Which do you think are the best bulbs and how would you configure a 4 bulb set up on this? The PCs were one half and half 10,000k/6700k and one 6700k/460nm. I think the light was a little too yellow for my taste. I'd like a natural look with a little more blue, but mainly what will grow coral the best. That's my main concern. The T-5 pics I've seen look great!

Wasn't ignoring your question, just missed it, sorry. A 4 lamp Tek light will do you fine.

I would try this

Front
Blue Plus
UVL Super actinic
ATI Sun or D&D Midday
Aquablue

That combo would give you a silvery white light with perhaps a bit of blue. If you want a more blue look do this

Front
Blueplus
UVL Super Actinic
Aquablue or UVL Actinic white
Aquablue

That will be blue but not tiddy bowl blue.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7823645#post7823645 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by horkn
many 90g owners here on RC run 6x54 of t5ho with good refelctors, and not overdriven, and have sweet tanks that grow anything. you really dont need more than 6 bulbs on a 90.

Don't paint with too broad a stoke there. If you are looking for the ability of high light critters at the bottom 6 lamps normally driven wont cut it. At 24" tall you arent going to break the magic 150 UMOL PAR level at the sandbed. Granted with proper placement you would be able to grow anything but for someone wanting say a carpet anemone you gonna have to at least upgrade reflectors and probably overdrive at a couple lamps at a minimum.


You see the new Ice Cap fixture yet? 6 overdriven lamps that can sit right on the tank frame:eek2: Thats got to be crazy bright.

 

[horkn]

yeah i see what you mean grim. but the one guy here on RC that has 6x54 and 4 of them are IC overdriven says they are just plain too bright.

the carpet anemone crowd is usually pretty low. croceas and maximas dont seem to have any issues on the bottom of the 24"tall 90g from what i have seen.

i will have to check the IC fixture out after work time. is it on their website?

 

[Alque01]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7823645#post7823645 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by horkn
the best tanks i have seen use mh and t5ho. shimmer, and less heat than 2x250 mh, and a little less electricity used even with all the bulbs on at the same time. but the point of me running mh/t5 is that i can run the mh for 4-6 hours, and use the t5 the rest of the day, depending on bulb choice and whatnot.

I like that idea....I was thinking about maybe adding just a pendant to one side, maybe just 150w. I imagine that that plus the 4 bulb T5 Fixture that i got at a great price (Thanks ReefCentral), should get me where i want to go.

I figure on a 10-12hr lighting cycle 3-5 hrs of MH should be a good simulation of natural lighting, intensity and all.

I havent run this by the the Big Guy (Grim) but Lets hear what he has to say!

 

[vessxpress1]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7823943#post7823943 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
Wasn't ignoring your question, just missed it, sorry. A 4 lamp Tek light will do you fine.

I would try this

Front
Blue Plus
UVL Super actinic
ATI Sun or D&D Midday
Aquablue

That combo would give you a silvery white light with perhaps a bit of blue. If you want a more blue look do this

Front
Blueplus
UVL Super Actinic
Aquablue or UVL Actinic white
Aquablue

That will be blue but not tiddy bowl blue.

Hey Grim. Thanks. I ordered the fixture today and some bulbs from reefgeek.

For bulbs I ended up going with:

1- ATI Aquablue
1- ATI Blue Plus
1- Giesemann Midday Sun 6000k
1- ATI Actinic 03 (I tried getting the UVL super actinic but reefgeek said they're out of stock and they've been on back-order since June 27th. They're out of them with no time frame on when they might get them) So hopefully the ATI Actinic is comparable. LMK. If not, I'll just have to live with it.

How high should I put these above the water? 18" tall I believe. I've had my PCs at 4". If I could put these a little higher to stay out of the salt splash, that would be great but I don't want to lose too much light at the bottom. thanks

 

[Klownfish]

Thanks, Grim

Thanks, Grim

Dear Grim,

I sent you a PM months ago asking for assistance with a T-5 setup for my 75g. With your help, the system is up and running now for almost two months. I love the new lights, and so do my critters!

What You Were Right About:

Yes, I could only fit 5 bulbs in my canopy. Everyone told me 6 would fit, but, no, they didn't. .5 inch too much! You said only 5, yup, U R right!

Yes, since I was overdriving my bulbs with a IC660, I DID need fans. My local friends told me to send the fans back, I wouldn't need them, waste of money. Yes, you were correct on the need for fans when overdriving the bulbs!

What You Were Wrong About???

NOTHING!!! I am glad I had your advice to assist me in pulling together my new system. I think you're great!

THANKS SO MUCH FOR YOUR HELP

RDJ

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7825897#post7825897 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by vessxpress1
Hey Grim. Thanks. I ordered the fixture today and some bulbs from reefgeek.

For bulbs I ended up going with:

1- ATI Aquablue
1- ATI Blue Plus
1- Giesemann Midday Sun 6000k
1- ATI Actinic 03 (I tried getting the UVL super actinic but reefgeek said they're out of stock and they've been on back-order since June 27th. They're out of them with no time frame on when they might get them) So hopefully the ATI Actinic is comparable. LMK. If not, I'll just have to live with it.

How high should I put these above the water? 18" tall I believe. I've had my PCs at 4". If I could put these a little higher to stay out of the salt splash, that would be great but I don't want to lose too much light at the bottom. thanks

4" should be fine. The ATI will be close to the UVL. Just not quite as much mojo.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

Re: Thanks, Grim

Re: Thanks, Grim

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7826005#post7826005 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Klownfish
Dear Grim,

I sent you a PM months ago asking for assistance with a T-5 setup for my 75g. With your help, the system is up and running now for almost two months. I love the new lights, and so do my critters!

RDJ

Glad it worked out for you.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7825358#post7825358 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by horkn
yeah i see what you mean grim. but the one guy here on RC that has 6x54 and 4 of them are IC overdriven says they are just plain too bright.

the carpet anemone crowd is usually pretty low. croceas and maximas dont seem to have any issues on the bottom of the 24"tall 90g from what i have seen.

i will have to check the IC fixture out after work time. is it on their website?

The Fixture is in a thread in the Ice Cap forum.

 

[MJAnderson]

Tom at Aquactinics let slip they would be coming out with one when I was talking to him about my 5 bulb fixture. He swore me to secrecy. Been itching to tell someone for two months now!

Was seriously considering postpoing my tank until this came out. Went with the 5 bulb instead. Hopefully I won't regret it!

 

[Funky_Fish14]

Howdy Everyone,

Well, I havent really been following this thread too instensly, but I have been following the T5 craze for the past year or so..

Being dissapointed with the wattage consuption and bulb life of VHO's, here is my situation:

I am about to set-up a 180g tank(well, 179.57g, hehe). It will be 4ft by 4ft, with a height of 18". I have a fullsize Lumenarc III pendant, which will have a Hamilton 14K bulb. This will be fully centered over the tank. I have decided im likely going to run a 4x 54W T5 retrofit over the tank with this halide. I would likely do 1 GE sun bulb, and one blue plus on each side of the halide. The aquascape will basically be low islands through the tank. I am wondering realistically how much added light I will get from the T5's as I have never run them, and havent had the pleasure of seeing too many in person. I can always change the halide to a 10K XM or Ushio and run just blue plus T5's... but I think I'd prefer my hamilton.

Also, would the Icecap retrofit be the better pic over the teks? I can stomach the price of the teks a little better, lol.

Thanks for the help!

Chris

 

[R33f3r]

I am really impressed with the new ATI blue +, it's alot brighter than the d&d and previous ATI. New design or what? Grim.....? any info? Thanks

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7828380#post7828380 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by R33f3r
I am really impressed with the new ATI blue +, it's alot brighter than the d&d and previous ATI. New design or what? Grim.....? any info? Thanks

ATI is a new design. Aquablue and blueplus out perform the D&D.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7828337#post7828337 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Funky_Fish14
Howdy Everyone,

Well, I havent really been following this thread too instensly, but I have been following the T5 craze for the past year or so..

Being dissapointed with the wattage consuption and bulb life of VHO's, here is my situation:

I am about to set-up a 180g tank(well, 179.57g, hehe). It will be 4ft by 4ft, with a height of 18". I have a fullsize Lumenarc III pendant, which will have a Hamilton 14K bulb. This will be fully centered over the tank. I have decided im likely going to run a 4x 54W T5 retrofit over the tank with this halide. I would likely do 1 GE sun bulb, and one blue plus on each side of the halide. The aquascape will basically be low islands through the tank. I am wondering realistically how much added light I will get from the T5's as I have never run them, and havent had the pleasure of seeing too many in person. I can always change the halide to a 10K XM or Ushio and run just blue plus T5's... but I think I'd prefer my hamilton.

Also, would the Icecap retrofit be the better pic over the teks? I can stomach the price of the teks a little better, lol.

Thanks for the help!

Chris

Interesting project. As long as the lamps are mounted withing 6" of the water the standard Teks will give you enough PAR to raise most critters. I'd think about running at least 3 T5's on each side of the halide. Do a UVL Super Actinic, An ATI Aquablue and Blueplus. The GE daylight doesn't have the power it used to. If you ran a GE and Blueplus at the front you will see the yellowish tint come through with only a single Blue plus.

 

[Funky_Fish14]

Ahh I see, thanks for the info!

I just read another of your posts a bit further back in another thread, and noticed you reccomend the ATI sun bulbs more?

I guess I would change the GE's to ATI suns if I went with that pattern. all the 'critters' will be in a 3x3ft area in the tank(Sides will be clear by 6" at least). I know the lumenarc will cover this but I want the extra coverage. Since I dont plan on having as many critters at the back... maybe I could toss a Blueplus, ATI sun, UVL super actinic at the front, and just a Blueplus or something at the back? Or is that ATI sun still going to give some yellowish even with the blueplus and UVL? Im just not sure how the PAR on the aquablue is since I've never had them, haha. Also, I read on RC about Aquablue being a bit weird for some corals awhile back?

Sorry for all the blab, but thanks for answering!

Chris

 

[The Grim Reefer]

If you run a Blue Plus, ATI Sun then UVL Super Actinic together in the front it will look neutral. I'd run a second super actinic at the back. The Hamy 14K has a nice spike in the 450nm blue area but not much in the 420nm actinic range. Running the actinics with the halide should give you a little extra pop.

 

[Funky_Fish14]

Thanks for all the help Grim!!

I guess I'll do this:

Front

Blueplus
ATI sun
UVL Super Actinic

14K Hammilton in Lumenarc

UVL Super Actinic

Back

Cant wait to order! Haha.

Thanks again,

Chris