The T5 Q&a Thread

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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9425607#post9425607 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by yaitisme
Wow, 10 minutes to get a response! Better than most tech support lines! Reef Central should put you on their payroll.

Thanks
Only 40 minutes for a reponse to my question and my post was at 2 in the morning! Amazing.
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9423916#post9423916 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
Reefgeek has the 60" T5's, you can do 3 lamps on an Ice Cap 660 ballast. I would do a Blue Plus and Actinic in front of the halides and a blue plus behind.
I suppose I could do the 60" 80W bulbs on a 660 but I kinda like the idea of splitting up bulbs onto two ballasts so I can turn them on separately. And I also might use a diy light mover to move a 48" light rack back and forth over a 60" length so 48" bulbs would work.

Do you know anything about the icecap diy ballast?

http://www.aquariumspecialty.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=581[/URL]

It is cheap and can power 2 46" T5HO bulbs although I am not sure it overdrives them.
 
On the heat issue this a a big variable with many contributing factors.

Lets start with room temp if your in a cool room all year long with a constant temp you need a heater to get your temp up in the proper range to start with. Since heaters are controlled by a thermostat the heat from the lights will simply reduce the amount of time the heaters will be on.

However if your in room where the temp varies and can get up to well over 70 degrees then nearly everything that generates heat needs to be watched. How much heat are your pumps transfering to your water? Your Lights?

While most people keep there tanks at between 78 and 80 degrees the thing to remember is that a slightly high or low constant temperature is not as bad as when you have temperature swings. These swings are especially noticable with metal hide lighting where the water temp can be increased by 4 to 10 degrees above the room temperature by the lights alone. I n smaller tanks this heating can be even more drastic. However as long as the heating does not take you over the safe point you can simply compensate for the cool times with a proper sized heater.

With T-5's the heating from the lights is much less of an issue however in some cases especially with smaller tanks it can become a concern. One thing that many controlers do is monitor the water temp and if it raises to high they simply turn off the lights, and.or other heat sources. Rather than going with an expensive controler you could build your own using a simple thermostat that would cut your lights off if a said temp were exceeded.

Dennis




<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9425598#post9425598 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by PacificBlueReef
I have the 4 bulb Tek Lights and currently have them setup about 5-6 inches above the water(without a fan). What is the correct height(lowest setting/highest setting)? I am concerd about the heat output. There is not enough heat to burn my hand but it is deffinetly noticeable coming from the stock units. How much heat is to much?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9425826#post9425826 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by zmar84
Only 40 minutes for a reponse to my question and my post was at 2 in the morning! Amazing.

I suppose I could do the 60" 80W bulbs on a 660 but I kinda like the idea of splitting up bulbs onto two ballasts so I can turn them on separately. And I also might use a diy light mover to move a 48" light rack back and forth over a 60" length so 48" bulbs would work.

Do you know anything about the icecap diy ballast?

http://www.aquariumspecialty.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=581[/URL]

It is cheap and can power 2 46" T5HO bulbs although I am not sure it overdrives them.

The Dynamic ballasts are fine. They dont overdrive lamps like the 430 and 660.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9372653#post9372653 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
What are the dimensions of your tank and what do you plan on raising in it?

wow this thread is so big that it was hard to find my reply :lol:

my tank has 120 x 60 x 60 cm and i intend to keep acroporas and clams.

thanks :thumbsup:
 
I can squeeze 6 36" T5s, with the reflectors, into my canopy but one will be located all the way in the back above the overflow.

As there is only a few inches either side of the overflow, is it worth putting 6 bulbs in or should I just stick with 5?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9429070#post9429070 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Marcio
wow this thread is so big that it was hard to find my reply :lol:

my tank has 120 x 60 x 60 cm and i intend to keep acroporas and clams.

thanks :thumbsup:

I would do 8 lamps, 4 overdriven, 4 regular driven all using Ice Cap reflectors.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9429388#post9429388 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by flapjack1439
I can squeeze 6 36" T5s, with the reflectors, into my canopy but one will be located all the way in the back above the overflow.

As there is only a few inches either side of the overflow, is it worth putting 6 bulbs in or should I just stick with 5?

Then you would end up doing 4 lamps unless you can find a ballast that does 1 or 3 lamps. You might call reefgeek to see if they sell such a critter without using an Ice Cap 660.

I don't know about the new Tek reflector yet.
 
Hello, i'm totally new to Keeping a Marine system and wanted your advice on lighting. I've read through quite a bit on this thread but its massive, so i think a quick post will help me out. I have 40g Fluval Vicenza tank that came with its own lighting hood(only 2 22" 24w T5's), my LFS said this should be fine to start out but would add an extra 2 when i can. Well i can now but wanted to know if this sounds ok and if it is what bulbs should i use because by the sound of it thats the main part.

Any help would be greeeeeet.

Also i'm in the UK dont know if its all different regarding bulbs but there you go!!!

Ta
 
Yes. The Solar Flare was a little too wide for my tank so the front lamp was about half blocked by the tank frame. The rock work blocked most of the light from the rear 2 lamps from reaching the sensor and the thing still broke 300 at the sandbed 17 inches below the surface on a 22" tall tank. When the guy who owns the fixture gets back from vacation I will try to get better numbers from his 120. It's 48x24x24 so we should get an accurate reading in it.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9430270#post9430270 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
4 T5's should be good. I would run 1 actinic, 1 daylight, 1 Blue and 1 of the 50/50 11000K type lamps.

Thanks Grim. What do you think i could keep under that arrangement? Also Is the "Blue" just a standard blue tube, cos all i could find was "Blue Actinic" for MArine use?:confused:

Ta!!!!
 
You should be able to get D&D Giesemann lamps in the UK. I think they will be Pure Actinic for the actinic, Actinic Plus for Blue, Aquablue for 110000K and Midday for a sun.
 
Hi Grim,

My tank is a 4x2x2'. It is currently lighted by 2x150W Astra Lux 7000K DE MH with 4x54W Aqualight Coral Blue (something like blue+) HO T5. The tank looks white with a hint of blue.

I am wondering if there is a better T5 combination that I can use. Would it be better if I swap one of the tube to an actinic?

Thanks. :)
 
Dear Santa Claus, ... err Grim Reefer,


I've bought two IC 660s & 8 slrs' used over the last few months and am now wondering for my 75g how many bulbs I should use?

I have a number of zoos on the bottom and I'd prefer not to fry them if possible. I would love to be able to keep a clam or two as well as an rbta.

What say you as far as number of bulbs I should use and types I should ask Greg to send me if I like a bluer look to my tank?

Thanks!
 
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