The T5 Q&a Thread
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
- Status
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
Giesemann Actinic Plus.
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
But the Actinic Pluses in the first two slots for now. You are going to want to lose on of the middays and get another blue lamp or a super actinic.
I'd do this
Front
Actinic Plus
Super Actinic
Midday
Actinic Plus
Midday
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
That would be fine.
first off, let me start out by saying this thread is AWESOME. So much great info in here and I would like to thank Grim and all those who help out in providing great info on T5 lighting.
Right now I have over my 29g AGA a 4x24 Tek Light.
the bulb combo is:
(Front)
AquaBlue+
URI Aquasun
URI Super Actinic
AquaBlue+
(Back)
It's a mixed reef, some LPS, Clam, Softies down low, and i am thinking about adding an SPS frag or two.
Other then it being a little more red then i would like, (I am kinda looking for that deeper darker, more "rich blue" look) so far so good.
Any thoughts? Is this a good combo for a mixed reef or should i change it up?
thanks again!
Right now I have over my 29g AGA a 4x24 Tek Light.
the bulb combo is:
(Front)
AquaBlue+
URI Aquasun
URI Super Actinic
AquaBlue+
(Back)
It's a mixed reef, some LPS, Clam, Softies down low, and i am thinking about adding an SPS frag or two.
Other then it being a little more red then i would like, (I am kinda looking for that deeper darker, more "rich blue" look) so far so good.
Any thoughts? Is this a good combo for a mixed reef or should i change it up?
thanks again!
What is "burn in" time on T5s. I put a GE 6500k on as you suggested and it totally overpowered the AquaBlue and BluePlus bulbs to the point it made a strip of light on the rockwork (didn't blend). Perhaps these are a ton brighter at first?
That GE bulb is a nice bulb though, color temperature looks to be higher than 6500k to my eyes. It actually is bluer than the cheapo 10ks I had before. Perhaps that is also a burn in issue.
That GE bulb is a nice bulb though, color temperature looks to be higher than 6500k to my eyes. It actually is bluer than the cheapo 10ks I had before. Perhaps that is also a burn in issue.
TulsaReefer
New member
T5 migration from VHO
T5 migration from VHO
I'm currently running 4 x 110 VHO 48" and 2 NO 40 watt 48" tubes over my 110 gallon tank, which is just about all my 60" x 18" tank can hold (hood is a little less than 18"). Layout today is:
Back
NO 40 watt Actinic
VHO 110 watt Actinic White
VHO 110 watt Actinic
VHO 110 watt Actinic White
VHO 110 watt Actinic White
NO 40 watt Actinic
Front
I have mostly soft corals and zoas, which grow very well and look decent with this setup, but hope to begin to migrate to some LPS and SPS over time as I harvest out the overgrowth of softies.
I have a pair or IceCap 660s already and was hoping to replace the 4 VHO tubes with T5's, and then upgrade the two Actinic NO tubes to VHO Actinics.
If I do this, what would be the recommended tube mix? It would be layed out this way:
Back
VHO 110 watt UVL Actinic
T5 HO (~80watt overdriven by Icecap) tube ?
T5 HO (~80watt overdriven by Icecap) tube ?
T5 HO (~80watt overdriven by Icecap) tube ?
T5 HO (~80watt overdriven by Icecap) tube ?
VHO 110 watt UVL Actinic
Front
I'd be happy to head a little more blue than I have today, and was considering maybe a mix of a pair of the Actinic White T5s and a pair of the UVL Aquablue 14000K? Or will the pair of VHO Actinics handle the blue end and then should I even go with maybe a GE 6500K or two in the mix?
Also any thoughts on the best reflectors for someone doing a retro?
T5 migration from VHO
I'm currently running 4 x 110 VHO 48" and 2 NO 40 watt 48" tubes over my 110 gallon tank, which is just about all my 60" x 18" tank can hold (hood is a little less than 18"). Layout today is:
Back
NO 40 watt Actinic
VHO 110 watt Actinic White
VHO 110 watt Actinic
VHO 110 watt Actinic White
VHO 110 watt Actinic White
NO 40 watt Actinic
Front
I have mostly soft corals and zoas, which grow very well and look decent with this setup, but hope to begin to migrate to some LPS and SPS over time as I harvest out the overgrowth of softies.
I have a pair or IceCap 660s already and was hoping to replace the 4 VHO tubes with T5's, and then upgrade the two Actinic NO tubes to VHO Actinics.
If I do this, what would be the recommended tube mix? It would be layed out this way:
Back
VHO 110 watt UVL Actinic
T5 HO (~80watt overdriven by Icecap) tube ?
T5 HO (~80watt overdriven by Icecap) tube ?
T5 HO (~80watt overdriven by Icecap) tube ?
T5 HO (~80watt overdriven by Icecap) tube ?
VHO 110 watt UVL Actinic
Front
I'd be happy to head a little more blue than I have today, and was considering maybe a mix of a pair of the Actinic White T5s and a pair of the UVL Aquablue 14000K? Or will the pair of VHO Actinics handle the blue end and then should I even go with maybe a GE 6500K or two in the mix?
Also any thoughts on the best reflectors for someone doing a retro?
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
Swapping the positions of the Aquasun and super actinic might help. If you still think it's too red after that swap the Aquasun for a GE 6500K daylight or Aquascience 15000K "Special"
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
About 100 hours.
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
Re: T5 migration from VHO
Re: T5 migration from VHO
For a five foot tank do yourself a favor and stick with the 54 watt lamps. Thats what I use over my 5 foot tank and its fine. It gives you a lot better selection of lamps and reflectors than using the 80 watt lamps.
If you are looking for a deepwater blue look I would add 3 Blue Plus and 1 UVL Aquasun.
Aquablue is a poor name for the UVL lamp. it is more pink. If you want a bluish look to the tank try this
Front
VHO Actinic
Blue Plus (or Giesemann Actinic Plus)
UVL Aquasun
Blue Plus
ATI or Giesemann Aquablue
VHO Actinic
Another option for the T5 lamps would be this if you can fint the lamps
Front
Blue Plus
KZ Fiji Purple
UVL Aquablue
ATI or Giesemann Aquablue
The Purple lamp is a very bright lamp with a purple hue to it. The UVL Aquablue is a very bright light with a pink hue to it and the ATI or Giesemann Aquablue is a very bright light with a blue Hue to it. The combination of the 3 with a blue plus and a couple VHO actinics will interesting. I am not sure it it will be as blue as you want though.
In either case be watching your softies. You are adding a ton of light to your tank. I would definatly grab some window screen and throw over the tank in layers so you can acclimate the critters.
Re: T5 migration from VHO
For a five foot tank do yourself a favor and stick with the 54 watt lamps. Thats what I use over my 5 foot tank and its fine. It gives you a lot better selection of lamps and reflectors than using the 80 watt lamps.
If you are looking for a deepwater blue look I would add 3 Blue Plus and 1 UVL Aquasun.
Aquablue is a poor name for the UVL lamp. it is more pink. If you want a bluish look to the tank try this
Front
VHO Actinic
Blue Plus (or Giesemann Actinic Plus)
UVL Aquasun
Blue Plus
ATI or Giesemann Aquablue
VHO Actinic
Another option for the T5 lamps would be this if you can fint the lamps
Front
Blue Plus
KZ Fiji Purple
UVL Aquablue
ATI or Giesemann Aquablue
The Purple lamp is a very bright lamp with a purple hue to it. The UVL Aquablue is a very bright light with a pink hue to it and the ATI or Giesemann Aquablue is a very bright light with a blue Hue to it. The combination of the 3 with a blue plus and a couple VHO actinics will interesting. I am not sure it it will be as blue as you want though.
In either case be watching your softies. You are adding a ton of light to your tank. I would definatly grab some window screen and throw over the tank in layers so you can acclimate the critters.
TulsaReefer
New member
Re: Re: T5 migration from VHO
Re: Re: T5 migration from VHO
Yes, planned on 4' T5's, I wasn't probably clear that I was going to run on IC660 and I hear they run 4' 54 watt tubes at around 80 watts, I have no plans on the 5' actual 80 watt tubes as I agree, the variety of tubes available at 4' is well worth staying with that size.
As for the tube mix, I'm not looking for an overly blue look, I'm really more interested in keeping up the PAR to support some of the easier SPS while only using 4 x 4' overdriven tubes along with the pair of VHO Actinics on a 5' tank. I also want decent color of course, but don't really care personally for the overly blue look. And I was guessing that the 2 VHO Actinics in front and back would contribute to any flourescence pretty well, as well as blue up the tank overall. Looking at the PAR readings you've posted, the ATI or D&D/Giesemann AquaBlue seem to have nice high PAR overall for a non-daylight tube. Would that lean me to use maybe a pair of the AquaBlue and a pair of the BluePlus? Or would that be too blue, and I should go with the first suggestion you had with a Aquasun in there to keep it from being too blue? Or maybe if I'm not trying to get too blue, a pair of Aquasuns with a pair of AquaBlues? (This is the problem when you have so many variations of tubes available... It's hard to decide on what will look good)
I'm also wondering about if I use the IceCap SLR reflectors which I assume are still the recommended reflector if I want to try to cram 4 of them into a 10" space, that the different tube colors may be too "spotlighted" and not blend much by the time they begin to reach down the tank even half way, which is about a foot. Is this something I need to consider, or is it usually not a problem in that the spread on a reflector is pretty wide once it is down a foot or so?
Re: Re: T5 migration from VHO
Yes, planned on 4' T5's, I wasn't probably clear that I was going to run on IC660 and I hear they run 4' 54 watt tubes at around 80 watts, I have no plans on the 5' actual 80 watt tubes as I agree, the variety of tubes available at 4' is well worth staying with that size.
As for the tube mix, I'm not looking for an overly blue look, I'm really more interested in keeping up the PAR to support some of the easier SPS while only using 4 x 4' overdriven tubes along with the pair of VHO Actinics on a 5' tank. I also want decent color of course, but don't really care personally for the overly blue look. And I was guessing that the 2 VHO Actinics in front and back would contribute to any flourescence pretty well, as well as blue up the tank overall. Looking at the PAR readings you've posted, the ATI or D&D/Giesemann AquaBlue seem to have nice high PAR overall for a non-daylight tube. Would that lean me to use maybe a pair of the AquaBlue and a pair of the BluePlus? Or would that be too blue, and I should go with the first suggestion you had with a Aquasun in there to keep it from being too blue? Or maybe if I'm not trying to get too blue, a pair of Aquasuns with a pair of AquaBlues? (This is the problem when you have so many variations of tubes available... It's hard to decide on what will look good)
I'm also wondering about if I use the IceCap SLR reflectors which I assume are still the recommended reflector if I want to try to cram 4 of them into a 10" space, that the different tube colors may be too "spotlighted" and not blend much by the time they begin to reach down the tank even half way, which is about a foot. Is this something I need to consider, or is it usually not a problem in that the spread on a reflector is pretty wide once it is down a foot or so?
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
The light blends pretty well reflector to reflector.
You could do this if your worried about too much blue
Front
Blue Plus
Aquasun or GE 3000K
Aquablue
Aquablue
You could do this if your worried about too much blue
Front
Blue Plus
Aquasun or GE 3000K
Aquablue
Aquablue
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
I own page 12!!!
Or I screwed up and double posted
Or I screwed up and double posted
I thought I'd ask the experts: I'm trying to decide on lighting for a 120 upgrade.
1. Does anyone have pics of a standard 4x2x2 120 with t5 only lighting? Specifically for a mixed reef?
2. If I go with t5, should I get a 6 or 8 bulb tek fixture? I looked at the aquactinics, and the constellation/solar flare units just cost too much. I could get MH for that price.
3. Someone suggested to me that t5's generate just as much heat as MH, so that I shouldn't make my decision based on the possibility that MH would require a chiller. Doesn't make any sense to me, but I thought I would ask. Anyone here need a chiller?
4. Last question: If I go with t5, which bulbs for a 14k phoenix look?
Thanks a lot!
1. Does anyone have pics of a standard 4x2x2 120 with t5 only lighting? Specifically for a mixed reef?
2. If I go with t5, should I get a 6 or 8 bulb tek fixture? I looked at the aquactinics, and the constellation/solar flare units just cost too much. I could get MH for that price.
3. Someone suggested to me that t5's generate just as much heat as MH, so that I shouldn't make my decision based on the possibility that MH would require a chiller. Doesn't make any sense to me, but I thought I would ask. Anyone here need a chiller?
4. Last question: If I go with t5, which bulbs for a 14k phoenix look?
Thanks a lot!
TulsaReefer
New member
Thank Grim for the really quick reply, I may try this mix since it may be a best fit balance between getting maximum PAR and decent looks without being overly blue. Of course I can always tune it later as well, just hate to be too far off at the beginning and then have tubes laying around I don't care for.
And thanks for reminding me that this is something I have to acclimate my corals to, I'll do a few layers of window screen and slowly remove them as the corals get acclimated. I'm expecting this will really push a lot more light on them. I'll probably go ahead and do the VHO Actinic upgrade right away, and get that out of the way and everything used to it, and then do the T-5s a few weeks later, I have more work to do to rewrite and remount everything for that part of the upgrade.
Now another question, I'm thinking of building an enclosure that will allow me to do some forced cooling on the T5s along with potentially adding a plexi splash shield as I have some fish that love to splash around quite a bit. I don't relish having to clean the reflectors all the time (it's bad enough now having to wipe down my VHO tubes weekly). Any problems with doing this that I need to be aware of? Was thinking of a 1/2 thick inch wooden box basically, a couple of 120mm fans on one end, openings on the other, and then mounting the T5s inside, and adding a thin plexi shield over the whole thing to protect from spray. This would help direct the cooling flow to be over the tubes, and keep the salt spray out of the fans as much as possible (mounting them to suck from the top, and have holes on top on the other end to allow air in).
And thanks for reminding me that this is something I have to acclimate my corals to, I'll do a few layers of window screen and slowly remove them as the corals get acclimated. I'm expecting this will really push a lot more light on them. I'll probably go ahead and do the VHO Actinic upgrade right away, and get that out of the way and everything used to it, and then do the T-5s a few weeks later, I have more work to do to rewrite and remount everything for that part of the upgrade.
Now another question, I'm thinking of building an enclosure that will allow me to do some forced cooling on the T5s along with potentially adding a plexi splash shield as I have some fish that love to splash around quite a bit. I don't relish having to clean the reflectors all the time (it's bad enough now having to wipe down my VHO tubes weekly). Any problems with doing this that I need to be aware of? Was thinking of a 1/2 thick inch wooden box basically, a couple of 120mm fans on one end, openings on the other, and then mounting the T5s inside, and adding a thin plexi shield over the whole thing to protect from spray. This would help direct the cooling flow to be over the tubes, and keep the salt spray out of the fans as much as possible (mounting them to suck from the top, and have holes on top on the other end to allow air in).
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
I dont have a picture but I can tell you Halides will heat your tank more than T5's. I ran both over the very same tank. If you are trying to avoid a chiller T5's are a better idea but that doesn't mean you still wont have to get one if your tank is in a very warm room.
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
If it were me doing the T5's in a box with plexi I would mount two fans in the top at the center blowing out. Then drill 3/8 or 1/2 inch holes on either end below each endcap so the cooler air will be drawn in along the length of the lamps
- Status
