The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
The Pro Sun ATI lamp is nice but there arent too many left around. If you can get one they are great.
The T5 Q&a Thread
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The Pro Sun ATI lamp is nice but there arent too many left around. If you can get one they are great.
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11043933#post11043933 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jennmac415
Grim...am I never to see your tank with your current bulb configuration??I may want to make a couple of bulb changes and would love to see the bulbs that you are running...pretty please????
Maybe I wasn't clear in my last response... My camera wont take an accurate picture of the tank color unless it is a closeup shot. For some reason anything beyond a moderate close up looks completely blue so I havent bothered to take a full tank shot. If I back out any farther than the one pic I posted (link below) it just makes everything look blue, like just having actinic on. The closup pictures will give you the basic look of the lights.
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=11026729#post11026729
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
They should still help.
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
The T5 VHO is an overdriven T5 HO. As far as I know there is no industry spec for T5 VHO. UVL designed their HO lamp to stand up to being overdriven by an Ice Cap ballast and that is what they call the VHO lamp.
SPACEMANS2
New member
so does this mean that the UVL's will last longer?
Tommy Tang
New member
Thank you agein
Tomek
Tomek
Oh Grim... I am really sorry to have been a pain... for some reason I never got your responses and I check all the time...dumb me!!!!! Sorry!
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
Maybe, maybe not. If you overdrive your lamps it seems like they would because of the double coil electrodes.
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
No worries
stephensturman
New member
are the 48" 54w retrokits from hellolights.com any good? i will be puting them on a 90g aga rr that will be mainley sps dominated but a few lps in the darker spots! please let me know!
Hey grim,
Sorry if this has been asked but I've been looking for so long now I don't know where I am! I have 75G mixed reef mainly LPS and Softies, but a few SPS up high. Color in the SPS is dark. I want to go from my current setup of 4 VHO URIs 2 Whites 2 Blues on an IC660 without reflectors to t-5 with individual reflectors IC or comparable. Would this be sufficient if I wanted to continue with my current SPS and maybe add a few more? Also I think the look is too yellow now, any suggestions on getting it to the 15-20K look? Thanks you've been a big help here and with you red house!
Sorry if this has been asked but I've been looking for so long now I don't know where I am! I have 75G mixed reef mainly LPS and Softies, but a few SPS up high. Color in the SPS is dark. I want to go from my current setup of 4 VHO URIs 2 Whites 2 Blues on an IC660 without reflectors to t-5 with individual reflectors IC or comparable. Would this be sufficient if I wanted to continue with my current SPS and maybe add a few more? Also I think the look is too yellow now, any suggestions on getting it to the 15-20K look? Thanks you've been a big help here and with you red house!
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
The lamp selection isnt great at Hellolights. I'd do reefgeeks and spend the extra 2 bux a reflector to upgrade to the Ice Cap reflector.
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
4 lamps will be plenty for sps up on the rocks. For lamp try
Front
ATI Blue Plus
UVL Super Actinic
UVL Aquasun
ATI Blue Plus
I wanted to know what the best reflector distance from the T5 bulb was (for those that separately mount the reflectors and don't use the clips). I do have the clips and was considering putting them on to guage the distance and adjust the reflectors, but wanted to be sure that would be optimal (IE: or that the clips merely put the reflectors off as far as their design would allow and still hold the reflector upright, but not far enough to be truly "optimal").
also, I have read about T5s being enough for sPS up on rocks, etc. Most of them have the lamps 4" off of the water (more or less) and the corals up to 18" - 20" down from the waterline. Would it be fair to say that 22" - 24" from the bulbs is as far down as an SPS can go and still receive enough light to sustain it ? Taking into account that the bulbs were run off of an IC ballast, using IC an IC SLR and were 80 W ATI AquaBlue Plus bulbs. Or am I really off base with my numbers ?
I also wanted to clarify that the best color/par bulb for stand alone running is still the ATI AquaBlue Plus bulb ? Or is there another with a crisp white/blue color and good PAR ? Would it be better to run two 3' bulbs end to end than the one 5' bulb ? (I don't need the extra 1' linear coverage, but am looking for more penetration.)
I am trying to use T5s to supplement our MHs, but not for color, more for filling in dark areas and lighting the front side of several colonies that are towards the front of our tank.
Thanks in advance for time spent answering my questions (and likely setting me straight on a thing or two)
also, I have read about T5s being enough for sPS up on rocks, etc. Most of them have the lamps 4" off of the water (more or less) and the corals up to 18" - 20" down from the waterline. Would it be fair to say that 22" - 24" from the bulbs is as far down as an SPS can go and still receive enough light to sustain it ? Taking into account that the bulbs were run off of an IC ballast, using IC an IC SLR and were 80 W ATI AquaBlue Plus bulbs. Or am I really off base with my numbers ?
I also wanted to clarify that the best color/par bulb for stand alone running is still the ATI AquaBlue Plus bulb ? Or is there another with a crisp white/blue color and good PAR ? Would it be better to run two 3' bulbs end to end than the one 5' bulb ? (I don't need the extra 1' linear coverage, but am looking for more penetration.)
I am trying to use T5s to supplement our MHs, but not for color, more for filling in dark areas and lighting the front side of several colonies that are towards the front of our tank.
Thanks in advance for time spent answering my questions (and likely setting me straight on a thing or two
)
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
If you are going for PAR only the Aquablue is a good choice. Using the clip to measure the distance from the lamp to the reflector would be good cause I aint gotta clue about that.
If you are overdriving 80 watt lamps I would say most SPS would be good 16" (12" of water 4" of air)down for sure and montis a bit lower.
If you are overdriving 80 watt lamps I would say most SPS would be good 16" (12" of water 4" of air)down for sure and montis a bit lower.
http://www.1000bulbs.com/T12-Fluorescent-Ballast/
Would these ballasts work to run ur standard 48 in 110 watt uri bulbs???? Any help would be great. thanx
Would these ballasts work to run ur standard 48 in 110 watt uri bulbs???? Any help would be great. thanx
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
The Worhorse 7 can run 2 VHO lamps but they are a tad underdriven.
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