The T5 Q&a Thread

[Fatboy]

Grim Reefer:

Thanks for your help. In my country voltage is 220 volts.

With the 10 x 54 I'm going to loose PAR compared with the 2 x 400 MH's ? I'm looking to get better colors, but it's also true that I love the growth I get with the MH's and I guess that's the reason why I was looking at the 10 x 80.

 

[urville]

Hi grim,
I've been running a 4x65 PC system with the dual actintics 460 and 420, i like that purple of the 420's, and the other two bulbs are 10k/460.

I borrowed a friends extra light to see, and I was... I didnt like it much, his MH's are 250 10k's but he said they are aging and pinker than when new, and 4x65 PC's all 460 blue. Things dont look as vibrant and defined. he told me, and I wasnt sure so im here asking, that if I got 14k or 20k bulbs I wouldnt have to have the 460's and could run those 420's for "look" of color and it would probably look more like i'm used to color wise.

I can get used to it, it's just a bit weird things look muted and not as vibrant. I also looked at a 6 or 8 x54 T-5 system, but I am concerned about whether I can eventually keep clams and SPS with those lights, but I believe it would allow me to be more into the color rendering... i believe... but...

help grim!!!

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12262694#post12262694 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Radioheadx14
Would a tek 4x54w fixture cover a 48x24x16 tank? I'm only wanting to keep some lower light LPS like my branching hammers, candy canes, some ricordeas and Zoas.

I'm looking for a good fixture that is not too expensive and semi- energy efficient.

SHould be fine

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12262890#post12262890 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by reefrick.M
Got a ?. My current Aquactinics 250 watt MH/T5 combo worked great on my 55 sps tank. Now that I moved it into a 120 48x24x24 it seems to have a lot of dead spots. It seems like a good time now to go all T5. My question is would I be able to get away with the 48" 7 bulb Constellation or do I need to go with the 8 bulb Power Module to keep my sps and clams.

Thanks

Comstellation would be fine if you keep it low. It can be sat right on the tank if you want.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12267534#post12267534 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Fatboy
Grim Reefer:

Thanks for your help. In my country voltage is 220 volts.

With the 10 x 54 I'm going to loose PAR compared with the 2 x 400 MH's ? I'm looking to get better colors, but it's also true that I love the growth I get with the MH's and I guess that's the reason why I was looking at the 10 x 80.

If the halides were 30K I really don't think you are going to lose PAR. The Blue T5's don't have low PAR like the Blue Halides.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12267558#post12267558 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by urville
Hi grim,
I've been running a 4x65 PC system with the dual actintics 460 and 420, i like that purple of the 420's, and the other two bulbs are 10k/460.

I borrowed a friends extra light to see, and I was... I didnt like it much, his MH's are 250 10k's but he said they are aging and pinker than when new, and 4x65 PC's all 460 blue. Things dont look as vibrant and defined. he told me, and I wasnt sure so im here asking, that if I got 14k or 20k bulbs I wouldnt have to have the 460's and could run those 420's for "look" of color and it would probably look more like i'm used to color wise.

I can get used to it, it's just a bit weird things look muted and not as vibrant. I also looked at a 6 or 8 x54 T-5 system, but I am concerned about whether I can eventually keep clams and SPS with those lights, but I believe it would allow me to be more into the color rendering... i believe... but...

help grim!!!

The 14K halides will look better than worn out lamps. The T5's will probably give you better color rendering. Really just a matter of person taste. You'll be fine with either

 

[urville]

Really?! thats great cause T-5's are quite a bit cheaper... but everyone naysayed me and said there was "no way you'll ever keep high light animals now"

With 14k or 20k halides, if i did go that route, would i need to supplement acintics?

Also as an aside, if thats the Colo Aurora, I'm just to the north of you in Chey, Wy. Any reccomendations on Denver LFS's? nice avatar too!

 

[Fatboy]

Thanks The Grim Reefer.

Is PAR measurement different in MH's and T5's ? I mean, a 400 watt SE bulb has the same surface as a 250 watt SE bulb but with a higher intensity, so the intensity per square inch is bigger. In T5's, the wattage needs to be distributed in different surfaces depending on the length. So I guess my question is how does PAR compare between 39, 54 and 80 T5's ? Shouldn't PAR be similar between them ?

My logic is that even that 80 watts sounds like more intensity, at the end of the day, those 80 watts needs to be distributed in a longer surface so intensity per square inch (or any other measure...) should be similar. I'm mistake with this theory ?

Can you understand what I'm trying to say ?

 

[spike78]

Ventilation Clarification

Ventilation Clarification

Hey everyone,

I would like some clarification on the correct way to ventilate a hood containing T5HO retro's. I have 12 39W T5H0's with IceCap Ballasts over my 6' Bowfront. I've gotten horrible longevity results with my current setup with output way down and bulbs expiring after only 6 months of use. I think the problem is my ventilation, or lack of correct ventilation in my open-back hood.
I've read suggestions here about using fans to blow across the bulbs, or endcaps of each row. Does this mean I should ventilate front to back with fans blowing down the rows of endcaps? Or does this mean that I should ventilate side to side blowing across the length of the bulbs?
Any clarification on this matter would be much appreciated.

Thanks,

Steve

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12267774#post12267774 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by urville
Really?! thats great cause T-5's are quite a bit cheaper... but everyone naysayed me and said there was "no way you'll ever keep high light animals now"

With 14k or 20k halides, if i did go that route, would i need to supplement acintics?

Also as an aside, if thats the Colo Aurora, I'm just to the north of you in Chey, Wy. Any reccomendations on Denver LFS's? nice avatar too!

As long as you stick to the good T5 units they can raise high light items.

With 14 or 20K halides you don't have to do actinics but it will help if you have corals that fluoresce green.

Hey Island for LFS in DDenver.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12267968#post12267968 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Fatboy
Thanks The Grim Reefer.

Is PAR measurement different in MH's and T5's ? I mean, a 400 watt SE bulb has the same surface as a 250 watt SE bulb but with a higher intensity, so the intensity per square inch is bigger. In T5's, the wattage needs to be distributed in different surfaces depending on the length. So I guess my question is how does PAR compare between 39, 54 and 80 T5's ? Shouldn't PAR be similar between them ?

My logic is that even that 80 watts sounds like more intensity, at the end of the day, those 80 watts needs to be distributed in a longer surface so intensity per square inch (or any other measure...) should be similar. I'm mistake with this theory ?

Can you understand what I'm trying to say ?

You have to measure the PAR under the same conditions to campare the two. Wattage means nothing other than a general guidline for how much raw power the lamp might produce. Height above the water, reflectors being used and number of lamps being used all affects the amount of light reaching your animal.

 

[TracyZeuner]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12267529#post12267529 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
I would try
Front
ATI Blue Plus
ATI Aquablue
ATI Blue Plus
Blue Plus
ATI Blue Plus
UVL Aquasun
Blue Plus

It wont be quite as blue as 20K but the PAR will be pretty good. The Blue Plus doesnt have that much less output than the sun and Daylight lamps and the Aquablue has nearly as much as some and more than others.

Is there a difference between The ATI Blue Plus and the Blue Plus. Is it the same bulb or a different brand?

 

[The Grim Reefer]

Re: Ventilation Clarification

Re: Ventilation Clarification

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12268299#post12268299 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by spike78
Hey everyone,

I would like some clarification on the correct way to ventilate a hood containing T5HO retro's. I have 12 39W T5H0's with IceCap Ballasts over my 6' Bowfront. I've gotten horrible longevity results with my current setup with output way down and bulbs expiring after only 6 months of use. I think the problem is my ventilation, or lack of correct ventilation in my open-back hood.
I've read suggestions here about using fans to blow across the bulbs, or endcaps of each row. Does this mean I should ventilate front to back with fans blowing down the rows of endcaps? Or does this mean that I should ventilate side to side blowing across the length of the bulbs?
Any clarification on this matter would be much appreciated.

Thanks,

Steve

I had good luck blowing the fans in from the back on each side of the canopy near the endcaps. Having vent holes or slots in the top of the canopy would certainly reduce the amount of heat in the canopy.

 

[tsouth]

What is a good way to clean the reflectors and bulbs?

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12269196#post12269196 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by TracyZeuner
Is there a difference between The ATI Blue Plus and the Blue Plus. Is it the same bulb or a different brand?

Same lamps, just saving my fingers

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12269224#post12269224 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by tsouth
What is a good way to clean the reflectors and bulbs?

RO water or vinegar if they are nasty.

 

[TwistedTiger]

Grim or others,

Been following this thread for a while and haven't seen much posted about the AccuStart or Vossloh-Schwabe electronic ballast which ReefGeek has with their SLR retro kits. I understand they are not icecaps but are they quality T5 ballasts or is there a better alternative without going icecap. Also am I correct in saying that the AccuStart and Vossloh-Schwabe ballast do not overdrive the bulbs like the icecap? Thanks in advance.

 

[TracyZeuner]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12267529#post12267529 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
I would try
Front
ATI Blue Plus
ATI Aquablue
ATI Blue Plus
Blue Plus
ATI Blue Plus
UVL Aquasun
Blue Plus

It wont be quite as blue as 20K but the PAR will be pretty good. The Blue Plus doesnt have that much less output than the sun and Daylight lamps and the Aquablue has nearly as much as some and more than others.

I'm going to order extra bulbs in case it is "too" blue. What would you recommend? also will I lose any of the bright green colors of my corals?

 

[tsouth]

Well I tried water and there seems to be something on my reflectors that I can't get off. It's on all four and they look like blemishes ranging from sand size to pencil eraser size. They're purpley and idk what the deal is. Any idea?

 

[ooja3k]

looks like coralline algae?? lol...

try using vinegar. it should clean off most things.

the only way they wouldn't become clean is if the blemishes are actually that, scratches or erosions on the reflectors...