The T5 Q&a Thread

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Watt for watt, the T5s with flat reflectors are still probably going to outperform the CFs simply because the reflectors for CFs are REALLY bad. Maybe Grim has more input?
 
Hello,
I am going to be upgrading my lighting to t5 for a 36x18x20 tank all sps. I have narrowed it down to four choices and I am interested in your feedback:
ATI Powermodule 4x39W
ICECAP 660 with the icecap reflectors 4x39w
Tek Hood 6x39w
Aquatinics 5x39w

What would be the best choice for lighting this tank?
-chris
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12192083#post12192083 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by lark
Rudereefer's thread on switching over from VHO has me thinking about supplementing my current tek retro 4x54 w T5 with 2x110 VHO actinic. Maybe something like:

VHO actinic
blue plus
aqua blue
VHO actinic
aqua sun
blue plus

Too blue?

24" tank, mostly LPS, some SPS near top. Too much light?

Thanks in advance!

SHould be fine
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12192246#post12192246 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by wmilas
Grim got grumpy with me on another thread, so I'm posting her per his directions :) I'm trying to build a Ice cap SLR light rack to hold 2 rows of 10 of 5' bulbs.

The problem I'm actually facing right now is how to build the light racks to hold these things and cool effectively. I'm planning on building 2 5' racks that can be raised/lowered independently. This makes detaching the light racks easier if I have to do it solo.

So imagine a 2x4 frame for a light rack. Now imagine 2x2's or 1x2's that run parallel to the short side say 12 or 18 inches off center affixed to the bottom of the 2x4 rectangle, not inset into the rectangle. So I've got a rectangle with a bunch of parallel bracing under it. I'll affix the endcaps and slr's to this bracing. (perpendicular)

The problem I'm having is the cooling. Grim told me I should run fans over the endcaps and the middle of the bulbs. Since the rack is built lattice like to enable the facilitation of convection I have to run the fans perpendicular to the end caps to cool them off. If I run them parallel there is no sealed box to cool them all as in a fixture. So this means the fans have to drop down past the slr's and flow over the endcaps UNDER the bulbs. If I use 120MM fans that means 4" of fan below the lights. This limits how close I can get to the water.

I can't think of a better way besides enclosing the whole light hood which just seems totally inefficient and wrong, as I'm going to lose all the convection.

I've also read the thread on the heat dissipation issues with T5's and Oliver (from ATI) statements on how over cooling is actually more detrimental than not cooling at all as far as par output goes.

I can recap his points if anyone missed it, just ask.

Any ideas? I've looked around and ever large light rack I've seen is a MH one. I haven't seen a t5 only rack with cooling.

Grim is never grumpy you dufiated idget:D

The reason I suggest fans at each side blowing down the endcaps is that it makes it a lot less likey you will overcool the lamp.

I would probably mount a room fan above each fixture so it blows down over the reflectors. Pretty hard to overcool like that. You dont need hurricane force winds, just a slight breeze to keep the air moving
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12192359#post12192359 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by kenyacat
Grim, or anyone,

I am upgrading to a 75 gallon. I am going to do a minimalist reef tank - not so much rock. The bio load will be small. Max of 4 fish, inverts and corals.

I do not know what corals I will get yet, but my question is the T5 lights. I could go with 6 for 324 watts which is 4.32 watts per gallon or I could go with 8 which would be 432 watts at 5.76 watts per gallon.

Since I will not have a lot of rock to move corals to the top, but also not a lot of rock to get in the way, which lights should I go with.

I do have a Sebae nem now. Would I be limited with the 324 watts or will that take care of just about anything I want to keep? If not, what can I not have?

I already got the which bulbs from you that I would need for either the 6 or 8, but I just can't decide whether I really need the 8. More money to buy and to run especially if I don't really need it.

Thanks

Get a 6 lamp Ice Cap retro. If you are going to do clams or SPS use a Ice Cap 660 on 4 of the lamps.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12193873#post12193873 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by fireman912
Hey Grim THANK YOU for all your help, reading this thread has helped me out alot. I would like your recommendation on which color bulbs to buy and in what order to put them in. I am buying the aquatincs constellation 48" 7 bulb fixture. I will be keeping all sps and want the colors to really pop and dont mind if it looks blue. THANKS GRIM

Front
ATI Blue Plus
UVL Aquasun
UVL 75/25
ATI Blue Plus
ATI Blue Plus
UVL Aquasun
ATI Blue Plus
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12196644#post12196644 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Crush Coral
Here is my question - If a florescent tube has the same physical charectoristics (gas inside a tube with a phosphorus coating) what makes a T5 bulb brighter and last longer than a PC bulb? Has anyone done meter comparisons with comperable wattage T5s and PCs?

Heat is a bad thing and the PC design causes them to get really hot. That kills the phosphores sooner. It also makes it impossible to make a decent reflector too.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12200190#post12200190 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by loonybin
Hello,
I am going to be upgrading my lighting to t5 for a 36x18x20 tank all sps. I have narrowed it down to four choices and I am interested in your feedback:
ATI Powermodule 4x39W
ICECAP 660 with the icecap reflectors 4x39w
Tek Hood 6x39w
Aquatinics 5x39w

What would be the best choice for lighting this tank?
-chris

Anything but the Tek. Really depends which you like the look of better. Only downside to the Ice Cap retro is no dusk/dawn ability.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12201186#post12201186 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
Get a 6 lamp Ice Cap retro. If you are going to do clams or SPS use a Ice Cap 660 on 4 of the lamps.

Okay, now I am confused. I cannot find this 6 lamp Ice Cap retro. Where do you suggest I go looking for that? I did find a 4 lap kit, what that raised some more questions. Are this VHO as opposed to T5? What is the difference? There seems to be no picture where I was looking and no mention of wattage. What wattage is a 660? Also you mention using the 660 in 4 of the spots, what goes in the other two spots?

A couple weeks ago you suggested some bulb combinations in the T5 for both a 6 or 8 lamp fixture. What kind of look am I going to get with a 660 and whatever else? What kind of Kelvin rating are they?

Sorry for so many questions, but I do not know a lot about lighting and cannot seem to find a site for these lights that is informative.

Thanks
 
Grim?

my tank is 60x24x24 would you go with outer orbit 250 mh w 4 54w t5 or aquatinics solor flare both 4 foot fixtures? Or somthing else? No more than $1000 budget.

Thanks
 
Hi Grim

I am getting a T5 HO retro kit in the next couple of weeks and need input on the bulbs that I should choose. I have looked at my options with Giesemann and URI....It will be running on a 55g tank, that will house predominantly softies and LPS with the potential for some SPS later on. I will be running 4 bulbs with individual reflectors. So what is the recommended bulb combination? should I get 10K and actinics? or should I get a 65K, 10K and actinics? any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance

Lis
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12200935#post12200935 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
Grim is never grumpy you dufiated idget:D

The reason I suggest fans at each side blowing down the endcaps is that it makes it a lot less likey you will overcool the lamp.

I would probably mount a room fan above each fixture so it blows down over the reflectors. Pretty hard to overcool like that. You dont need hurricane force winds, just a slight breeze to keep the air moving

Hum, thats a good idea. I need to see if I can find some slimline variable speed box like fans. Pastic blades would be even better.
 
Grim said "Get a 6 lamp Ice Cap retro. If you are going to do clams or SPS use a Ice Cap 660 on 4 of the lamps. "

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12203419#post12203419 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by kenyacat
Okay, now I am confused. I cannot find this 6 lamp Ice Cap retro. Where do you suggest I go looking for that? I did find a 4 lap kit, what that raised some more questions. Are this VHO as opposed to T5? What is the difference? There seems to be no picture where I was looking and no mention of wattage. What wattage is a 660? Also you mention using the 660 in 4 of the spots, what goes in the other two spots?

A couple weeks ago you suggested some bulb combinations in the T5 for both a 6 or 8 lamp fixture. What kind of look am I going to get with a 660 and whatever else? What kind of Kelvin rating are they?

Sorry for so many questions, but I do not know a lot about lighting and cannot seem to find a site for these lights that is informative.

Thanks

Sorry, I waited too long to edit, so I had to repost. I wanted to mention that I had been planning on getting the Tek fixture. I have since read a post you posted to someone saying not to get a Tek. Any particular reason why they are not so good?

Thanks
 
Hey Grim, I Got the Icecap retro kit from Reef geeks(4 X 54w). I also bought 4 more bulbs for my 660 Icecap ballast. I now have 4 blue Plus, 1 Aquasun, 1 Pro Color, 1 75/25 UVL and 1 Aquablue. Which 4 bulbs would you run on the 660 ballast? Thanks
 
my tank is 72x24widex30tall do you think two 36" (20x39w) ati powermodules would be sufficient to keep clams on the sand. Would icecap retrofits with icecap ballast and reflector (9 rows of 24w+54w) be over kill. I still would like to keep some shrooms. Anyone have ati's on a 30" deep tank.
 
Hey Grimm,

I am ordering my bulbs and want to double check the following:


Blue Plus = 39W Blue Plus T5 HO Fluorescent
Aquasun = 39W 10000K AquaSun T5 HO Fluorescent
Super Actinic = 39W Super Actinic T5 HO Fluorescent
UVL 75/25 = 39W 75/25 14000K AquaBlue T5 HO Fluorescent
Blue Plus = 39W Blue Plus T5 HO Fluorescent
Aquablue = 39W 12000K Aquablue Special T5 HO Fluorescent

The Aquablue is the one I am not truly sure about since Reefgeek lists two different Aquablue bulbs:

39W 12000K Aquablue Special T5 HO Fluorescent
and
39W 11000K Aquablue Plus T5 HO Fluorescent

quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally posted by shackscs
Hey Grimm,

I picked up a 72" Nova Extreme pro with 12 bulbs. I am looking to get the same 14k look that you hooked me up with on my 4 bulb 36" fixture for my 65.

What would you suggest for 14K or 20K look?
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------



Blue Plus
Aquasun
Super Actinic
UVL 75/25
Blue Plus
Aquablue

Let us know how it looks. Should be like 14K with some actinic.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12203419#post12203419 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by kenyacat
Okay, now I am confused. I cannot find this 6 lamp Ice Cap retro. Where do you suggest I go looking for that? I did find a 4 lap kit, what that raised some more questions. Are this VHO as opposed to T5? What is the difference? There seems to be no picture where I was looking and no mention of wattage. What wattage is a 660? Also you mention using the 660 in 4 of the spots, what goes in the other two spots?

A couple weeks ago you suggested some bulb combinations in the T5 for both a 6 or 8 lamp fixture. What kind of look am I going to get with a 660 and whatever else? What kind of Kelvin rating are they?

Sorry for so many questions, but I do not know a lot about lighting and cannot seem to find a site for these lights that is informative.

Thanks
He means to get a 4x54w vho icecap retro which comes with the 660 ballast and a 2x54 t5ho icecap. The 4x54 is overdriving the bulbs to 80w which will keep clams happy on the bottom. I just purchased the 4vho icecap retro and the bulb combo grim suggested was:
Front:
Blue+
Super Actinic
Aquasun
Blue+
The look is awesome and I wish I could describe it.
I paid $367 total includes shipping from reefgeek and it only took 2 days to get to me as they ship out of CA.

THANKS GRIM!!!!!!!!!!:D :D
 
Upgrading my 90's lighting.

Upgrading my 90's lighting.

Grim,

I have read so much of this thread and while i have seen a lot of questions that come close to my set up not completely so i appreciate you running through this for me!

I am looking to upgrade my 90's current lighting. i am running two 175 halides, with VHO actinic supplementation. I am looking to do a T5 retro. I am currently running mainly softies, LPS, and a couple of anenome's. I dont see much SPS in my future but would like to have the light available if I decide to add some. I would like to ad some clams so I want to make sure i have light covered for anything i may want to add to the tank.

I was going to add T5 supplementation to my VHO/halide set up so I currently have some sylvania 2x54 T5HO ballasts and Icecap SLR reflectors, end caps, and standoff's. I am now thinking of switching to all T5 and was looking at the Icecap T5VHO 4 bulb retro driven by the 660.

I am looking to run 6 if not 7 bulbs if I can fit it under the canopy. Is 7 bulbs overkill? Am I better off overdriving the 4 bars, and running the other 2 or 3 as only HO or would you recommend all 6 or 7 bulbs be overdriven? If you feel 4 overdriven with two or three running HO could I always swap the ballast latter and overdrive all 6 or 7 if I go SPS? I am going to mount them to the top of the canopy which has doors on the front to access the tank. The lights will sit about 10" off the water. Is that height going to be ok? I want to make sure I have enough room to get in and work.

Can you please also suggest a bulb combination for me? Can you please suggest which ones to use where, whether you suggest overdriving all or only some of them? I would like to know not only which bulbs to run for color, but also which ones to run where for a good dusk / dawn and then full light times. I like a nice crisp blue/white color with good color "pop" I was previously running 14K halides and was pretty pleased with the colors, but might like a little bluer, but not to much.

Thanks in advance for your help!!!!
 
I wanted to double check what everyone was saying before I went out and purchase a 2 X 54 (48 inch) retrofit kit. I need to make sure the kit will fit into my custom hood. I only have a little over 47 1/8" inches inside my hood. Can anyone confirm that the sunlight supply kit is less than this (including endcaps)?

Thanks,
Justin
 
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