The T5 Q&a Thread

[Vauche]

Thanks Grim, appreciate the advice and help!!

 

[HookedOnReefing]

Grim,

I need some help.

I currently run 3x 250HQI's + 4x 160VHO's. I want to change out my lighting and go with a T5 setup.

My goals:
1. Reduce generated heat input into the water and ambient air and possibly get rid of my chiller,
2. Reduce electrical consumption and,
3. Decrease current complexity.

So I was thinking I'd go with 5 or 6 5' 80 Watt T5HO's on IC430 ballasts and SLR reflectors and NOT to overdrive them. My reason for not overdriving is the added heat input and complexity (cooling of the end caps and water) that comes with overdriving T5's.

I realize I will probably loose some PAR as compared with my current setup. I do not feel like that would negatively impact my SPS and clams as I think I provide them with too much light as it is. I would also be able to increase my photoperiod from 8 hours/day up to 12 hours/day.

My proposed bulb combo is:
1 ATI ProColour
1 ATI AquaBlue Special
2 ATI AquaBlue Plus
1 ATI Actinic

I like to know your opinion.

Thanks Grim and others!

 

[Chipsreef]

Grim what are your thoughts of this bulb?
59k

 

[Rick55555]

Grim,

I’m hoping you could help me with replacing my existing bulbs. I have a Tek T5 8-bub fixture on my SPS tank. What bulb configuration do you recommend to maximize SPS growth and coloration yet provide a subtle purple hue.

Thanks in advance,

Rick

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12383516#post12383516 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by daveonbass
Ok I hate to back track but I too now have a question, Grim. I noticed that many of the fixtures you mentioned above are only in 48" sizes. So, my question is what (IYHO) is the best 36" fixture? I like the ATI (6 bulb by the way), but it's expensive, and I don't want to settle for second best if I don't have to. Is there a preferred choice of T5 fixture out ther efor us 36" guys...?

thanks in advance...

dave

Yeah, ATI is the best choice for 36"

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12383642#post12383642 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by kenyacat
Do I need to light acclimate the Sebae anemone from the 130 w PC it is under now to the constellation? If so, I was thinking of just turning on one of the fan switches for a week, then add the other fan switch for another week and finally turning on the last switch which is just 2 lights I think. Or would it be better to switch the bulbs around so certain ones are on?

I think we are placing this directly on the tank instead of the ceiling so I can't just adjust that way.

Thanks

Run the two fan circuits. Just use them like a dusk/dawn setup then add in the last two after a couple weeks.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12386184#post12386184 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by HookedOnReefing
Grim,

I need some help.

I currently run 3x 250HQI's + 4x 160VHO's. I want to change out my lighting and go with a T5 setup.

My goals:
1. Reduce generated heat input into the water and ambient air and possibly get rid of my chiller,
2. Reduce electrical consumption and,
3. Decrease current complexity.

So I was thinking I'd go with 5 or 6 5' 80 Watt T5HO's on IC430 ballasts and SLR reflectors and NOT to overdrive them. My reason for not overdriving is the added heat input and complexity (cooling of the end caps and water) that comes with overdriving T5's.

I realize I will probably loose some PAR as compared with my current setup. I do not feel like that would negatively impact my SPS and clams as I think I provide them with too much light as it is. I would also be able to increase my photoperiod from 8 hours/day up to 12 hours/day.

My proposed bulb combo is:
1 ATI ProColour
1 ATI AquaBlue Special
2 ATI AquaBlue Plus
1 ATI Actinic

I like to know your opinion.

Thanks Grim and others!

Generally speaking your going to get Ice Cap ballasts with 80 watt T5's because they are cheaper than using spec T5 ballast. The 80 watt lamps are not overdriven nearly as far as the shorter lamps so the heat wont be a big deal

Do 6 lamps but order reflectors through Ice Cap. You have to use 2 3 foot reflectors for each lamp. You just have to overlap them in the center and dill a hole for a 3rd lamp clip to hold them together. The Tek II reflectors are too wide to fit 6 lamps in there.

Front
Blue Plus
ATI Actinic
GE daylight
Blue Plus
ATI Pro Color
Blue Plus.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12387338#post12387338 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Chipsreef
Grim what are your thoughts of this bulb?
59k

Gotta be worth a shot for the price. CRI is crazy high. Should look good with blues and actinics

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12388387#post12388387 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Rick55555
Grim,

I’m hoping you could help me with replacing my existing bulbs. I have a Tek T5 8-bub fixture on my SPS tank. What bulb configuration do you recommend to maximize SPS growth and coloration yet provide a subtle purple hue.

Thanks in advance,

Rick

Front
Blue Plus
Super Actinic
Aquasun
Blue Plus
ATI Pro Color
ATI Aquablue
ATI Blue Plus
Blue Plus

 

[alanmorehead]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12386184#post12386184 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by HookedOnReefing
Grim,

I need some help.

I currently run 3x 250HQI's + 4x 160VHO's. I want to change out my lighting and go with a T5 setup.

My goals:
1. Reduce generated heat input into the water and ambient air and possibly get rid of my chiller,
2. Reduce electrical consumption and,
3. Decrease current complexity.

So I was thinking I'd go with 5 or 6 5' 80 Watt T5HO's on IC430 ballasts and SLR reflectors and NOT to overdrive them. My reason for not overdriving is the added heat input and complexity (cooling of the end caps and water) that comes with overdriving T5's.

I realize I will probably loose some PAR as compared with my current setup. I do not feel like that would negatively impact my SPS and clams as I think I provide them with too much light as it is. I would also be able to increase my photoperiod from 8 hours/day up to 12 hours/day.

My proposed bulb combo is:
1 ATI ProColour
1 ATI AquaBlue Special
2 ATI AquaBlue Plus
1 ATI Actinic

I like to know your opinion.

Thanks Grim and others!

Why Icecap 430s? Do you already have them?
You could run all six 60" bulbs on two Icecap 660s. The 660s are only about $15-20 more and are more versatile anyway.
The spec ballasts are $68 and only run one 80w bulb!

 

[laud]

Grim,
1) Do you think it is a good idea to "shimmer" the tank using led's to supplement the t5's?

2) For a 72" tank would you be in favor or against using a 60" fixture, to save money? I figure you'd only lose 6" on each side.

I would continue to feel guilty about all the repetitive questions if you weren't so stoic in your answers. Thanks again, again.

Michael

 

[yamaha racer]

could i pull off a nova pro 6x54w on a 90g sps dominated reef grim?

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12393902#post12393902 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by laud
Grim,
1) Do you think it is a good idea to "shimmer" the tank using led's to supplement the t5's?

2) For a 72" tank would you be in favor or against using a 60" fixture, to save money? I figure you'd only lose 6" on each side.

I would continue to feel guilty about all the repetitive questions if you weren't so stoic in your answers. Thanks again, again.

Michael

If your talking T5's if you could find a good 60" fixture with good reflectors it would work but the only thing I know of is the ATI and they don't make a 60" unit for the 110v market.

For halides you really need 3 lamps over a 72" tank.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12394260#post12394260 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by yamaha racer
could i pull off a nova pro 6x54w on a 90g sps dominated reef grim?

I wouldn't try it.

 

[snaza]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12397889#post12397889 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
I wouldn't try it.

what would you suggest?

 

[laud]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12397868#post12397868 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
If your talking T5's if you could find a good 60" fixture with good reflectors it would work but the only thing I know of is the ATI and they don't make a 60" unit for the 110v market.

What about the IceCap 60" 8x80W SLR T5 Very High-Output Retrofit Kit you've mentioned before?

 

[markreefer]

I am currently running 4 x 250W Metal Halides on a tank measuring 72"x30"x30". I am considering changing to T5's. Could somebody give me the pros and cons please?

Which are the best units?

 

[alanmorehead]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12400876#post12400876 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by markreefer
I am currently running 4 x 250W Metal Halides on a tank measuring 72"x30"x30". I am considering changing to T5's. Could somebody give me the pros and cons please?

Which are the best units?

You might want to start off with the Icecap 8x80w retro. It will overdrive the 60" bulbs to 100w each.

Assuming the 8x80w Icecaps...

Pros:
- 8 60" T5 bulb replacement cost is about $192 vs $250-$300 for MH (plus more for supplements if you have them already)
- T5 bulbs should last longer than the MH and reduce the replacement cost even more
- 800w of power usage vs 1000w for the MH (or even more if you have supplements anyway)
- 3 stage dusk/dawn and no extra need for supplementing like the MH
- Lots more color options (especially with 8 bulbs)

Cons:
- Overdriven T5 will need active cooling fans
- Icecap doesn't make 60" reflectors, so you might need to spend a lot getting twice as many 36" reflectors and butting them together
- 60" bulbs over a 72" tank. I've heard that the Icecaps will have no problem hitting the extra 6" on the ends of the tank. Don't know if it will be different for a 30" tall tank though. Other option is to stagger the bulbs.

What kind of corals are you keeping?

 

[rgreenpc]

I bought a 6 bulb T5 retrofit for my 65G tank...

I was sent -
Pro Color
Aquasun
Actinic Blue Special
Actinic
2 x Blue Plus

Thoughts on the bulb order? And if you see any issues with the bulbs I was sent?

 

[markreefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12401532#post12401532 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by alanmorehead
You might want to start off with the Icecap 8x80w retro. It will overdrive the 60" bulbs to 100w each.

Assuming the 8x80w Icecaps...

Pros:
- 8 60" T5 bulb replacement cost is about $192 vs $250-$300 for MH (plus more for supplements if you have them already)
- T5 bulbs should last longer than the MH and reduce the replacement cost even more
- 800w of power usage vs 1000w for the MH (or even more if you have supplements anyway)
- 3 stage dusk/dawn and no extra need for supplementing like the MH
- Lots more color options (especially with 8 bulbs)

Cons:
- Overdriven T5 will need active cooling fans
- Icecap doesn't make 60" reflectors, so you might need to spend a lot getting twice as many 36" reflectors and butting them together
- 60" bulbs over a 72" tank. I've heard that the Icecaps will have no problem hitting the extra 6" on the ends of the tank. Don't know if it will be different for a 30" tall tank though. Other option is to stagger the bulbs.

What kind of corals are you keeping?

Thanks alanmoorhead, my tank is shut down at the moment for a rethink, but I intend to keep SPS.

The units I have in mind are ATI Power Modules.

http://www.bluzooaquatics.co.uk/pro...tID=1249&ProductDetailID=84&SubCatagoryID=480

They produce a 3' unit which is fan assisted so 2 of those would do the job and address the cons you mention.

I am particularly interested in the potential savings in running cost. From the tanks I have seen on RC using T5's there doesn't seem to be any disadvantage over MH ?