The T5 Q&a Thread

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13005241#post13005241 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by lukinrats
Don't worry Grim!!! What I was hoping is that I can get your number, or give you mine, so that I can get as much data as possible... I am sort of renting this Par meter for 1-2 weeks, so I want to be sure to do things right!!

Answer me this please... What might be the best way to get the sensor into different spots of the tank... I don't have any sort of acrylic handle... I was thinking of tie strapping it to my algae scrubber... It has changable heads on it, and I could just take the cleaner part of it off, and use the handle... The only problem is it may cast shadows over the sensor... Do you have any suggestions for something I could pick up at Wally World or Lowe's?

PAR meter should be here today!!!!

PS... Sorry about the triple post... Don't know what happened there...possibly my backwoods dsl service

Later,
Nathan

Someone around here did the algae scraper deal, works pretty good. I only do readings on the bottom so I have mine on a PVC pipe cap as a base. Using the scraper handle just tilt the sensor fore and aft and take the peak reading.

Once you get your meter PM me your number and I can call you. My long distance is one price all you can dial.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13007378#post13007378 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by 46bfinGA
Hey Grim, Thanks for the Help with the T5's. I ended up with two 8 lamp Tek lights. I was too impatient to wait for the 10 lamp ATI's. I am still pleased with the Tek's and so is my checking account.

I went with this lamp order:

......Front of tank......

1. ATI Aquablue
2. Sfiligoi Pure Actinic
3. KZ Fiji Purple
4. UVL Aquasun
5. ATI Pro Color
6. UVL Aquasun
7. ATI Blue +
8. ATI Aqua Blue

....Back of Tank...


What do you think about the lamp order? I have some ATI Aqua Blues, Blue +, and the Sfiligoi Pure Actinic lamps left over to mix in if I feel there is something missing or needs to be swapped out.

Not enough Blue and too much red right together. You can try using the pro color in place of one of the Pro Colors but don't string all three together, you will get a color band in the tank.

.Front of tank......

1. ATI Aquablue >>>> Change to Blue Plus
2. Sfiligoi Pure Actinic
3. KZ Fiji Purple >>>> CHange to Aquablue
4. UVL Aquasun
5. ATI Pro Color >>>> CHange to Fiji Purple
6. UVL Aquasun
7. ATI Blue +
8. ATI Aqua Blue

....Back of Tank...

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13007503#post13007503 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by mario8402
Hey Grim,
I'm sure you get tired of anwering questions on here hehe..
I followed your recommendation last time of a 4 bulb T5 setup (front to back - actinic+, aquablue, aquablue, actinic+) on an icecap 660 and have seen some good growth in my 72gal bowfront from the few sps that I have but have seen some of my softies suffer.
Most shrooms that is exposed to direct light are bleached and shriveled and all rock that is exposed to direct light is white and wont grow coraline..

I am considering downgrading to 2 ballasts that will drive the bulbs at 54 watts.. I was considering workhorse ballasts because thats the ones I hear most about.. do you have any recommendations? what are the differences betweek workhorse 5 and workhorse 7 ballats? Is this downgrade a bad move? Any advice greatly appreciated!
Thanks
-mario

Downgrading to T5 spec ballasts would be a good move. Workhorse ballasts are not a T5 spec ballast. I wont use them and don't generally recomend them. The don't have the program start the T5 lamps are designed to use. If it's all thts in the budget they will work.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13007983#post13007983 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by kpk
Hey Grim what do you think about the nova extreme pro? Is the constellation a lot better?

The Aquactinics is better due to the extra row of lamps and better reflectors. Current is comming out with better reflectors but I have no idea how they will stack up against the others. Judging by the picture I saw the new reflector might be in line with a Tek or at least close but I don't think it will match the Aquactinics. It's really going to depend on the material they use. Not sure when the new reflectors will be on the production models.

 

[mario8402]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13007752#post13007752 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Wetline
I don't know how much of an improvement downgrading ballasts will improve your softies. I'd try switching out one or two of your higher PAR bulbs with something less intense first. I have a 4 bulb set-up on a 90g. It uses two Triad ballasts (TEK retro) that are normally powering the T5's. With this set-up I've had bleaching issues with a couple SPS frags and a large closed brain. I think it's just a mixed bag with what corals like the intensity of some bulbs and which do not.

Thanks for the tip, I will try this out

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13008355#post13008355 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
Downgrading to T5 spec ballasts would be a good move. Workhorse ballasts are not a T5 spec ballast. I wont use them and don't generally recomend them. The don't have the program start the T5 lamps are designed to use. If it's all thts in the budget they will work.

what ballast would you recommed that will drive these bulbs at regular wattage?

 

[The Grim Reefer]

Triad, Universial, SYlvania, VS, Osram, All do good

 

[Everyones Hero]

I've looked through this thread for awhile, but it's so big that I couldn't get to the beginning. So I've basically been reading random pages here & there hoping that I would come across my questions.

I've got a 55g that I want to get T5 lighting for.

Question 1: Will I be able to grow corals under 2 48" T5 lights?

Question 2: Can I get a retrofit kit to fit into my current Flo strip light? (Stock one from my AGA if it matters)

Question 3: Could I just buy a retrofit kit & incorporate the lights into a canopy that I'd build myself?

Question 4: I see you guys use fans. What do you wire your fans to? I can't imagine it's to the ballasts because they would draw too much current & burn themselves out (or am I wrong?)

I want to get better lighting so I can get into corals, but I honestly don't know where to start without some kind of direction.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

4 lamps retrofitted into a canopy would be ideal. The fans are to keep the lamps at the optimum temp. You can't fit the T5 reflector in a strip light. You could keep low light stuff under 2 T5's.

 

[Everyones Hero]

Thanks for the help.

Is there a guide as to which brands are better than others?

I've seen Tek & Icecap 660 thrown around more than any other brands. Are they pretty much the same as far as quality?

 

[lukinrats]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13008145#post13008145 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
Someone around here did the algae scraper deal, works pretty good. I only do readings on the bottom so I have mine on a PVC pipe cap as a base. Using the scraper handle just tilt the sensor fore and aft and take the peak reading.

Once you get your meter PM me your number and I can call you. My long distance is one price all you can dial.

Ok Grim... The Par meter got to my house a little before lunch... I rushed home, determined to take a quick reading... I checked Par about 2 inches below the fixture... 1500

Then I checked Par just at the surface (or 9" below the fixture)...
700

Next I checked about 1 inch under the surface, and... 590

about middle ways in the tank... I got just @ 400

The last thing I checked was at the sandbed, middle of tank, sitting on the sand... I got 200

I would like to mention that I have my fixture 9" above the surface, and that this is a 30" tall with about 4" sandbed

Here are the pictures of my setup again


I don't know what you think, but I would say that if I moved the lights down another 2-3" that I could probably get 300 on the sand... You agree?

It is very odd that I was actually underestimating my par, because I was using
THIS conversion... I read about 6-8000 lux on the sandbed of my tank... According to the chart (if you go with the flourescant lux) you would have to be @ about 14000 lux to get 200 Par... After using the Par meter, the lighting I have over my tank is more acurately represented under the Sunlight lux on the table

So, I was getting 8000 and estimated that to be around 100 Par

8000 Lux is actually about 200 par with my lights (crazy)

I think that I can get some interesting data from this, once I have some extra time... Like TONIGHT BABY!!!! LOL

LATER,
NATHAN

 

[Lightsluvr]

T5 / MH question

T5 / MH question

I posted this in another thread, but this appears to be where the T5 experts come to roost. I am looking for some advice on T5 bulbs to use in conjunction with Phoenix 14K MH over two of our tanks.

First tank:
180G - 72x24x24 with heavy SPS. 3x 250W 14K Phoenix MH. Looking for growth and stunning color. I am currently using (2) 420nn and (2) 460nn "actinic" sets (8x39W) stock CurrentUSA T5 bulbs.

Second tank:
95G - soon to be 120G 48x24x24 with zoas, palys, a few montis up high - this is a seahorse tank running at 75 degrees with a chiller. 2x 150W 14K Phoenix MH. Looking for growth and stunning color. I am currently using (2) 420nn and (2) 460nn "actinic" sets (4x54W) stock CurrentUSA T5 bulbs.

Basically I have four banks of T5 bulbs that I can play with to supplement the halides.

The Phoenix 14K Halides are very white with a hint of blue.

Any suggestions? I am just a few months away from needing to replace the T5s, so I am ready for some changes...

I appreciate suggestions...

LL

 

[hahnmeister]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13014252#post13014252 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by lukinrats
Ok Grim... The Par meter got to my house a little before lunch... I rushed home, determined to take a quick reading... I checked Par about 2 inches below the fixture... 1500

Then I checked Par just at the surface (or 9" below the fixture)...
700

Next I checked about 1 inch under the surface, and... 590

about middle ways in the tank... I got just @ 400

The last thing I checked was at the sandbed, middle of tank, sitting on the sand... I got 200

I would like to mention that I have my fixture 9" above the surface, and that this is a 30" tall with about 4" sandbed

Here are the pictures of my setup again


I don't know what you think, but I would say that if I moved the lights down another 2-3" that I could probably get 300 on the sand... You agree?

It is very odd that I was actually underestimating my par, because I was using
THIS conversion... I read about 6-8000 lux on the sandbed of my tank... According to the chart (if you go with the flourescant lux) you would have to be @ about 14000 lux to get 200 Par... After using the Par meter, the lighting I have over my tank is more acurately represented under the Sunlight lux on the table

So, I was getting 8000 and estimated that to be around 100 Par

8000 Lux is actually about 200 par with my lights (crazy)

I think that I can get some interesting data from this, once I have some extra time... Like TONIGHT BABY!!!! LOL

LATER,
NATHAN

Wow, those are some very impressive numbers... giving halide a run for it for sure. If you are having problems with frying corals, you might want to acclimate them at the sand, or leave some of the bulbs off (like half!) for a bit. I tend to acclimate all SPS in the 200-250 range when I first get them.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13014252#post13014252 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by lukinrats
Ok Grim... The Par meter got to my house a little before lunch... I rushed home, determined to take a quick reading... I checked Par about 2 inches below the fixture... 1500

Then I checked Par just at the surface (or 9" below the fixture)...
700

Next I checked about 1 inch under the surface, and... 590

about middle ways in the tank... I got just @ 400

The last thing I checked was at the sandbed, middle of tank, sitting on the sand... I got 200

I would like to mention that I have my fixture 9" above the surface, and that this is a 30" tall with about 4" sandbed

Here are the pictures of my setup again


I don't know what you think, but I would say that if I moved the lights down another 2-3" that I could probably get 300 on the sand... You agree?

It is very odd that I was actually underestimating my par, because I was using
THIS conversion... I read about 6-8000 lux on the sandbed of my tank... According to the chart (if you go with the flourescant lux) you would have to be @ about 14000 lux to get 200 Par... After using the Par meter, the lighting I have over my tank is more acurately represented under the Sunlight lux on the table

So, I was getting 8000 and estimated that to be around 100 Par

8000 Lux is actually about 200 par with my lights (crazy)

I think that I can get some interesting data from this, once I have some extra time... Like TONIGHT BABY!!!! LOL

LATER,
NATHAN

Dude, 200 at the sand? That is awsome LOL. I'll give you a call.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13013057#post13013057 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Everyones Hero
Thanks for the help.

Is there a guide as to which brands are better than others?

I've seen Tek & Icecap 660 thrown around more than any other brands. Are they pretty much the same as far as quality?

Ice Cap reflectors but you really don't need to overdrive on your tank so the Ice Cap 660 ballast isn't needed.

As for lamps
ATI Blue Plus
UVL Super Actinic
UVL Aquasun
ATI Blue Plus

 

[The Grim Reefer]

Re: T5 / MH question

Re: T5 / MH question

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13014371#post13014371 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Lightsluvr
I posted this in another thread, but this appears to be where the T5 experts come to roost. I am looking for some advice on T5 bulbs to use in conjunction with Phoenix 14K MH over two of our tanks.

First tank:
180G - 72x24x24 with heavy SPS. 3x 250W 14K Phoenix MH. Looking for growth and stunning color. I am currently using (2) 420nn and (2) 460nn "actinic" sets (8x39W) stock CurrentUSA T5 bulbs.

Second tank:
95G - soon to be 120G 48x24x24 with zoas, palys, a few montis up high - this is a seahorse tank running at 75 degrees with a chiller. 2x 150W 14K Phoenix MH. Looking for growth and stunning color. I am currently using (2) 420nn and (2) 460nn "actinic" sets (4x54W) stock CurrentUSA T5 bulbs.

Basically I have four banks of T5 bulbs that I can play with to supplement the halides.

The Phoenix 14K Halides are very white with a hint of blue.

Any suggestions? I am just a few months away from needing to replace the T5s, so I am ready for some changes...

I appreciate suggestions...

LL

Try this and see what you think

Front
UVL Super Actinic
UVL 75/25
Halide
UVL 75/25
UVL Super Actinic

My thinking is the Phoenix should be giving you plenty of PAR and blue spectrum. This combination of T5 SHOULD add a little blue, a little red and a whole lot of actinic which the Phoenix does't have a lot of. Give it a shot and let us know what you think. It should bring in pink and purple colors better

 

[jpatrician]

Thanks for all the advice Grim. I ended up purchasing a 24" Aquatinics TX5, and will be running the following bulbs:

Front
ATI Blue Plus
UVL Super Actinic
UVL Aquasun
ATI Blue Plus
ATI Aquablue Special

 

[Everyones Hero]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13016047#post13016047 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
Ice Cap reflectors but you really don't need to overdrive on your tank so the Ice Cap 660 ballast isn't needed.

As for lamps
ATI Blue Plus
UVL Super Actinic
UVL Aquasun
ATI Blue Plus

Thanks again for the reply.

So I'm looking at:
-4 Ice Cap reflectors
-ATI Blue Plus, UVL Super Actinic, UVL Aquasun, & ATI Blue Plus bulbs
-8 (4 pairs) of waterproof T5 sockets
-Ballast (TEK? Certain wattage I should get? Need 2 seperate ballasts? Certain type ie: I've read of different types that use pulse or high voltage to start the lamps. Don't remember if this refers to T5 or HM.)

Sorry to ask so many questions. I'm just trying to get a setup that'll be sufficient for my tank w/ quality parts so I don't wind up buying parts several times trying to get this right.

edit: Looking at the IceCap 430 Electronic VHO Ballast. It states that it can put out 324 rated lamp watts & can power 12' of lamps. For my setup I'd need 4 48" bulbs, so I need a ballast that can power 16' of bulbs. Would the 430 be sufficient or should I consider something else?

 

[Everyones Hero]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13016047#post13016047 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
Ice Cap reflectors but you really don't need to overdrive on your tank so the Ice Cap 660 ballast isn't needed.

As for lamps
ATI Blue Plus
UVL Super Actinic
UVL Aquasun
ATI Blue Plus

Thanks again for the reply.

So I'm looking at:
-4 Ice Cap reflectors
-ATI Blue Plus, UVL Super Actinic, UVL Aquasun, & ATI Blue Plus bulbs
-8 (4 pairs) of waterproof T5 sockets
-Ballast (TEK? Certain wattage I should get? Need 2 seperate ballasts? Certain type ie: I've read of different types that use pulse or high voltage to start the lamps. Don't remember if this refers to T5 or HM.)

Sorry to ask so many questions. I'm just trying to get a setup that'll be sufficient for my tank w/ quality parts so I don't wind up buying parts several times trying to get this right.

 

[lukinrats]

Anyone who wants to know about what PAR your T5's put out needs to read this post!!!!

Anyone who wants to know about what PAR your T5's put out needs to read this post!!!!

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13015999#post13015999 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
Dude, 200 at the sand? That is awsome LOL. I'll give you a call.

Unbelievable huh!!! Well I took some more readings tonight after I talked to you... All I really did was swap all bulbs around to get the label on the same end, and then put my fan blowing on those ends... Then I took these readings

Also, before I say anything about the PAR readings, I want to say a little bit about the Lux meter conversion to Par... Grim, as we talked about over the phone, it would be very valuable to a lot of people to be able to take some Lux readings and get very close to what they have for Par... I must say that after using my Lux meter and Par meter under my T5's, it is actually very beneficial for people to have a Lux meter... Atleast in my opinion!!!
Take this for instance... I did not take a full set of Lux readings, but just for this post, I took a lux reading @ 6" below the surface on the right side of my tank... I got a Lux reading of right around 20000, and I got a Par reading of 430-450
Now, if you look @ this table, under the heading of ppf to lux reference table, and then take the Par to Lux (sunlight) conversion... You will see that this is close enough for Government work... I mean if you take 20,000 Lux and cross reference that to the Par values for (sunlight) you will have just about 400-450 (which is what it worked out to for me... That should be some great news to a lot of folks... I am no scientist, but that seems to be simple enough

Now let me give my Par results for my Jake Leg, modded Catalina Aquarium 8 x 54 T5 unit...LOL!!!

Right side of tank:

6-7" from bulb ends:
6" below bulbs= 550
@ water's surface=300
6" below surface=250
12" below surface=200
@ the 4" sand bed=150

15" from bulb ends:
6" below bulbs=1000
@ water's surface=675
6" below surface=450
12" below surface=340
@ the 4" sandbed=215



Left side of tank:

6-7" from bulb ends:
6" below bulbs=675
@ water's surface=350
6" below surface=300
12" below surface=230
@ the 4" sandbed=180

15" from bulb ends:
6" below bulbs=1000
@ water's surface=675
6" below surface=450
12" below surface=340
@ the 4" sandbed=225

Grim, I appreciate all the help that you and Hahnmeister have gladly given... It is what makes this Forum worth the money, and time... I hope that what little bit I have done here can help others... I plan on doing some more involved Par reading this weekend... I want to pull the reflectors, and then take some readings to see how much the 2 bulb per reflector thing is actually working... It would appear that it is making a huge difference, but who knows... I also want to take some readings from just after they turn on for the day, and then again when they are at their hottest (without a fan on them)

If you guys can think of any other sort of valuable ways of testing this, then I will get it done

Later,
Nathan

 

[lukinrats]

Hey Grim, I know this is a bad shot... I just took this with my Iphone real quick... This is my tank w/ 1 10000k ushio, and 1 B+ on

The green cap that you see in the center was bleached, and I think it is coming back nicely now... I think it is getting about 250-300 Par right there

Later,
Nathan