The T5 Q&a Thread

[Lightsluvr]

Re: Re: T5 / MH question

Re: Re: T5 / MH question

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13016222#post13016222 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
Try this and see what you think

Front
UVL Super Actinic
UVL 75/25
Halide
UVL 75/25
UVL Super Actinic

My thinking is the Phoenix should be giving you plenty of PAR and blue spectrum. This combination of T5 SHOULD add a little blue, a little red and a whole lot of actinic which the Phoenix does't have a lot of. Give it a shot and let us know what you think. It should bring in pink and purple colors better

I will give that combination a try... Here is a "before" shot with the stock T5s and the Phoenix MH. I'll put some "after" photos on here when I make the change.

thanks Grim!

LL

 

[Lightsluvr]

PAR meter?

PAR meter?

Any recommendations for an "underwater capable" PAR meter?

Thanks.

LL

 

[pancho]

Grim,

I am switching over to all T5's on my 8'x2'x2' tank. I will be using a total of 16 4' bulbs of which half will be overdriven by Icecap 660's. I will be using the following bulbs 4 ATI Blue Plus, 4 UV Aquasun, 4 UV Superactinics, and 4 ATI Procolor. In what order should I place the bulbs?

 

[kpk]

Hey Grimm,

I'm sure you've told someone already, but what bulb combo on a 72" constellation? The sand to the top of the tank is 25".

Thanks

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13017489#post13017489 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Everyones Hero
Thanks again for the reply.

So I'm looking at:
-4 Ice Cap reflectors
-ATI Blue Plus, UVL Super Actinic, UVL Aquasun, & ATI Blue Plus bulbs
-8 (4 pairs) of waterproof T5 sockets
-Ballast (TEK? Certain wattage I should get? Need 2 seperate ballasts? Certain type ie: I've read of different types that use pulse or high voltage to start the lamps. Don't remember if this refers to T5 or HM.)

Sorry to ask so many questions. I'm just trying to get a setup that'll be sufficient for my tank w/ quality parts so I don't wind up buying parts several times trying to get this right.

edit: Looking at the IceCap 430 Electronic VHO Ballast. It states that it can put out 324 rated lamp watts & can power 12' of lamps. For my setup I'd need 4 48" bulbs, so I need a ballast that can power 16' of bulbs. Would the 430 be sufficient or should I consider something else?

You also need the standoffs the endcaps mount to. You can get complete retrofit kits. Reefgeek has Ice Cpap retros with Triad ballasts. They are listed as HO T5 retros. With Ice Cap the VHO retro is the one with the Ice Cap ballast.

The 430 ballast will only run 2 to 3 T5 lamps. Again you are still overdriving the lamps with it. Triad, Sylvania/Osram/Vosslo-Schwab, advanced are all good T5 ballasts.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

Re: Anyone who wants to know about what PAR your T5's put out needs to read this post!!!!

Re: Anyone who wants to know about what PAR your T5's put out needs to read this post!!!!

[

If you guys can think of any other sort of valuable ways of testing this, then I will get it done

Later,
Nathan [/B]

PAR vs Lux readings with different lights on. Want to see if for instance a more blue spectrum throws the reading of as opposed to a more white one.

I still can't believe how consistant the readings are from the top to the bottom of the tank. You sure you are holding that sensor level at all depths

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13018191#post13018191 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by lukinrats
Hey Grim, I know this is a bad shot... I just took this with my Iphone real quick... This is my tank w/ 1 10000k ushio, and 1 B+ on

The green cap that you see in the center was bleached, and I think it is coming back nicely now... I think it is getting about 250-300 Par right there

Later,
Nathan

Meant to ask how you like that Ushio lamp. That shot looks really nice. I am assuming the Ushio is a very white looking lamp based on that picture.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

Re: PAR meter?

Re: PAR meter?

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13018500#post13018500 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Lightsluvr
Any recommendations for an "underwater capable" PAR meter?

Thanks.

LL

Apogee makes a good one for a reasonable price, around 250 bux. www.apogeeint.com is their address I think.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13018920#post13018920 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by pancho
Grim,

I am switching over to all T5's on my 8'x2'x2' tank. I will be using a total of 16 4' bulbs of which half will be overdriven by Icecap 660's. I will be using the following bulbs 4 ATI Blue Plus, 4 UV Aquasun, 4 UV Superactinics, and 4 ATI Procolor. In what order should I place the bulbs?

That combo isn't really going to work well, too much red I think.

Front
Blue Plus
Pro Color
Super Actinic
Aquasun
Blue Plus
Pro Color
Aquasun
Blue Plus

Is the best I can think of with that mix.

I would do this

Blue Plus
Pro Color
Super Actinic
Blue Plus
Aquasun
Super Actinic
Aquasun or GE 6500K
Blue Plus

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13019114#post13019114 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by kpk
Hey Grimm,

I'm sure you've told someone already, but what bulb combo on a 72" constellation? The sand to the top of the tank is 25".

Thanks

Front
ATI Blue Plus
UVL Aquasun
UVL Super Actinic
ATI Aquablue
ATI Blue Plus
UVL Aquasun
ATI Blue Plus

 

[lukinrats]

Re: Re: Anyone who wants to know about what PAR your T5's put out needs to read this post!!!!

Re: Re: Anyone who wants to know about what PAR your T5's put out needs to read this post!!!!

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13019418#post13019418 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
PAR vs Lux readings with different lights on. Want to see if for instance a more blue spectrum throws the reading of as opposed to a more white one.

I still can't believe how consistant the readings are from the top to the bottom of the tank. You sure you are holding that sensor level at all depths

LOL!!! Ya, there ain't no doubt... I am going to take some pictures of what I was using as a base/handle... My camera was dead last night, and I ain't no photographer... I plan on redoing the readings when I can get my wife to hold the display, and record results

I will do on the Par vs Lux... I also just ordered the following bulbs, and maybe they will be here monday... Ati Procolor, Ati B+ (another), Aquascience Duo 17,500k, and Aquascience blue 22,000k... This will change the readings some I am sure

I also could not believe how much par the B+ bulbs put out... I could almost replace every bulb I have with those, and then experiment with a reddish bulb, and a yellow/greenish bulb... I think it would look good... Maybe on Sup. Act

 

[The Grim Reefer]

Yeah, the Blue Pluses have serious Mojo for blue lamp,

 

[lukinrats]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13019435#post13019435 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
Meant to ask how you like that Ushio lamp. That shot looks really nice. I am assuming the Ushio is a very white looking lamp based on that picture.

Ya, that picture is the Ushio, and a B+ I think... I think it is a good balance, and it allows me to leave my lights on for longer

I actually took some quick Par readings with these lights on, and I was getting 100 and above from the middle of the tank and up... I had already dried off, and did not want to put my arms back down in there... I will see what's at the sand bed tonight with those 2 bulbs on

 

[biomekanic]

Hi Grim,
I've tried searching this forum for posts on T5s and 10 gallon aquariums, the search engine flips me off because T5 is to short for it...

Anyway, I'm doing a 10g nano, and was looking at an LPS tank with a deeper water mantis. MH would be overkill and I was thinking T5.

I'd appreciate any recommendations you could make.

 

[Jon]

This may be a naive question, but how do you know when it is time to change a T5 bulb? If you don't have a PAR meter do you just wait every 18 months. Do you wait for it to fail completely or is there any type of noticeable visual indication? Thanks,

Jon.....

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13020211#post13020211 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by biomekanic
Hi Grim,
I've tried searching this forum for posts on T5s and 10 gallon aquariums, the search engine flips me off because T5 is to short for it...

Anyway, I'm doing a 10g nano, and was looking at an LPS tank with a deeper water mantis. MH would be overkill and I was thinking T5.

I'd appreciate any recommendations you could make.

The problem will be finding the right length. I think the shortest fixture for T5's is 18". If that works they should be fine over a nano.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13020882#post13020882 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Jon
This may be a naive question, but how do you know when it is time to change a T5 bulb? If you don't have a PAR meter do you just wait every 18 months. Do you wait for it to fail completely or is there any type of noticeable visual indication? Thanks,

Jon.....

Watch your corals, look at the light color etc. You could set a digital camera to a fixed setting and take a picture once the lamps have ran 100 hours. After about 9 months take another and see how much color the lights have lost. A year is a good rule of thumb. On a taller tank with SPS you may need to change them at 9 months. On a shorter tank or one with just softies and LPS maybe you could go 18 months or more.

 

[kpk]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13019959#post13019959 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
Front
ATI Blue Plus
UVL Aquasun
UVL Super Actinic
ATI Aquablue
ATI Blue Plus
UVL Aquasun
ATI Blue Plus

Hey Grim what if my options are gieseman? Will the ATI's be aquablue plus and actinic plus?

 

[jlemieux123]

just got my new T5 fixture in last night and wow it's bright. I am afraid of bleaching out all my coral how should I aclimate my lighting? my light is mounted to my low profile canopy. I now have only half my lighting on

 

[jlemieux123]

just got my new T5 fixture in last night and wow it's bright. I am afraid of bleaching out all my coral how should I aclimate my lighting? my light is mounted to my low profile canopy. I now have only half my lighting on