The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
for the 36 or 40" width 4 Aquactinic Constellations, 2 rows of 48" fixtures placed end to end. Same configuration for 8 lamp ATI Power Modules
For the 48" width probably 4 of the 10 lamp ATI Powermodules.
The T5 Q&a Thread
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for the 36 or 40" width 4 Aquactinic Constellations, 2 rows of 48" fixtures placed end to end. Same configuration for 8 lamp ATI Power Modules
For the 48" width probably 4 of the 10 lamp ATI Powermodules.
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
It is going to cut it some. What you could do is lay eggcrate but cut out the area directly below the lights and just sit the fixture right on top so everything is sealed but you don't interrupt the path for the light entering the water.
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
On a 16" tall tank you could do all blue lamps and still have enough light for anything.
Front
ATI Blue Plus
UVL Super Actinic
ATI Pro Color
ATI Blue Plus
GE 6500K Daylight
ATI Blue Plus
UVL Super Actinic
ATI Blue Plus
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
I can tell you the Aquactinics fixtures pull the air out and the ATI Blows the air in and both seem to work.
*THIS IS ALL THEORY SO IF ANYONE HAS ANYTHING TO ADD JUMP IN.
If your fixture will be tightly sealed with the ballasts isolated from the lamps I think having the fans blow in are effective. You can pull air in through the top, direct it across the ballasts which will preheat it a bit (Remember you don't want to cool the lamp too much) then direct the air downinto the lamp chamber and out the end of the fixture.
If the lamps are only seperated from the ballasts by the reflectors then having the air pulled out of the fixture through the top will take advantage of the natural convection effect of air.
slug
New member
I was thinking of having the ballasts remote as long as the wires can be long enough. Is there a spec that says how long the wires to the bulbs can be?
I've seen mention of cold spots on bulbs. Is the end with the cold spot supposed to be cooled more than the other end?
Edit: Is the an optimal temperature for the bulbs? With the controller I have I could monitor the temp and control fans in the hood to maintain an approximate temp.
I've seen mention of cold spots on bulbs. Is the end with the cold spot supposed to be cooled more than the other end?
Edit: Is the an optimal temperature for the bulbs? With the controller I have I could monitor the temp and control fans in the hood to maintain an approximate temp.
LexSkizzle
New member
Grim,
How would you compare the Aquatinics TX5 vs Nova Extreme Pro(6 bulb) vs Sunlight Supply Tek T5(6 bulb)? I know the aquatinics may be a little better than the other two mentioned above, but by how much, I don't know. Is their a significant difference in performance and/or quality btwn the Aquatinics TX5 and the other two? I now have a 75g and would like to possibly get a clam or two when I eventually make the light upgrade and would like to stay with LPS and softies, but I want my corals to strive and grow at a good rate. Im currently just using PCs. Thanks in advance!
How would you compare the Aquatinics TX5 vs Nova Extreme Pro(6 bulb) vs Sunlight Supply Tek T5(6 bulb)? I know the aquatinics may be a little better than the other two mentioned above, but by how much, I don't know. Is their a significant difference in performance and/or quality btwn the Aquatinics TX5 and the other two? I now have a 75g and would like to possibly get a clam or two when I eventually make the light upgrade and would like to stay with LPS and softies, but I want my corals to strive and grow at a good rate. Im currently just using PCs. Thanks in advance!
Todd March
Premium Member
Mmmm, my 3 month old Powermodule pulls air out of the fixture...!
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
Double check that. I thought the one I have did too but Gregg at reefgeek told me they push the air in. I layed a stip of paper across the fan and sure thing it was sucking the air in. Even while I was watching the paper being drawn in I felt what I thought was air blowing against my hand. I think the excess air being drawn toward the fan bounces off. Be a little troubling to find out they are being installed both ways.
jthomps123
Member
Hi Grim,
What could I keep under 6x80w T5's with individual reflectors, overdriven with IC 660's in a 31" high tank? Would SPS and clams need to be high up in the tank?
Thanks
Jason
What could I keep under 6x80w T5's with individual reflectors, overdriven with IC 660's in a 31" high tank? Would SPS and clams need to be high up in the tank?
Thanks
Jason
Need a sugestion
Need a sugestion
Hi there, first of all I would like to thank you for putting this thread together.
I am setting up a 25x25x12 frag/grow out tank, mostly for SPS. I think I am going to go with a retro kit, could you give me a ballast, reflector and bulb # suggestion? Should I over drive the bulbs w/ice caps? Or is that not necessary. I appreciate any help you can give me.
Need a sugestion
Hi there, first of all I would like to thank you for putting this thread together.
I am setting up a 25x25x12 frag/grow out tank, mostly for SPS. I think I am going to go with a retro kit, could you give me a ballast, reflector and bulb # suggestion? Should I over drive the bulbs w/ice caps? Or is that not necessary. I appreciate any help you can give me.
filippo
Member
hi grim,
my brother just bought a 34G solana tank (20x20x20).
what T5 fixture would you recommend to keep corals, and clams too perhaps? how many bulbs and which ones (blue tint)?
he thinks that actinics bulbs are just for growth while Kelvins give the color to the tank. For instance, he's more for 3 actinics and 3 20K T5 for a deep purple/blue color - is he correct? and even if he is, do they even make 20" 20K t5 bulbs?
thank you
my brother just bought a 34G solana tank (20x20x20).
what T5 fixture would you recommend to keep corals, and clams too perhaps? how many bulbs and which ones (blue tint)?
he thinks that actinics bulbs are just for growth while Kelvins give the color to the tank. For instance, he's more for 3 actinics and 3 20K T5 for a deep purple/blue color - is he correct? and even if he is, do they even make 20" 20K t5 bulbs?
thank you
Holy Cow, what a read. Thanks for your dedication Grim.
I got a new one for you. I just switched my Mom from a 55gal to a 90gal. Looking to upgrade her lighting too. She keeps only softies, though I might eventually put in a frogspawn frag or two to see how they do.
Anyways, I'm getting the 4 bulb T5 retro kit from reefgeek. It appears they have most of the major bulbs in stock. I'm looking to get her a 14K-20k look from the 4 bulbs. Coloration is much more important that PAR for this tank. I saw plenty of 6 and 8 bulb combos, but not much for this specific situation.
She has a sand sifter goby, so there aren't any frags on the sandbed for the lighting to reach. Mostly zoas, singularia, GSP, and zenia on the liverock.
I've heard good things about the "Pro Color" bulbs, but not sure if they would be good in only a 4 bulb configuration. I've also read good things about the Blue Plus from ATI. I had the Geissman's in an old Aquatinics fixture and wasn't to impressed. Several of the bulbs burned out within 6 months and I never turned back to them. I did have great experiences with UV lighting bulbs though.
So long story short, I guess what would give me the best 14K-20K look by using the ATI and UV lighting bulbs in a 4 bulbs retro fit for 90gal softie tank?
Thanks so much for any advice you can offer.
I got a new one for you. I just switched my Mom from a 55gal to a 90gal. Looking to upgrade her lighting too. She keeps only softies, though I might eventually put in a frogspawn frag or two to see how they do.
Anyways, I'm getting the 4 bulb T5 retro kit from reefgeek. It appears they have most of the major bulbs in stock. I'm looking to get her a 14K-20k look from the 4 bulbs. Coloration is much more important that PAR for this tank. I saw plenty of 6 and 8 bulb combos, but not much for this specific situation.
She has a sand sifter goby, so there aren't any frags on the sandbed for the lighting to reach. Mostly zoas, singularia, GSP, and zenia on the liverock.
I've heard good things about the "Pro Color" bulbs, but not sure if they would be good in only a 4 bulb configuration. I've also read good things about the Blue Plus from ATI. I had the Geissman's in an old Aquatinics fixture and wasn't to impressed. Several of the bulbs burned out within 6 months and I never turned back to them. I did have great experiences with UV lighting bulbs though.
So long story short, I guess what would give me the best 14K-20K look by using the ATI and UV lighting bulbs in a 4 bulbs retro fit for 90gal softie tank?
Thanks so much for any advice you can offer.
Jeff cousteau
New member
I have a 25 tall tank that's 21" tall. I'll be upgrading to a 30 tall that is 24" tall here in a few months. I am using the tx5 by Aquatinics and have a mixed reef that is/will be sps dominated.
My 1st problem was under estimating the tx5. I sat the fixture on top of the tank without risers or window screen and bleached a couple acro's that came from a 250 W MH tank. I have solved this by adding 2 layers of window screen and replacing the G.E. 6500K bulb with a hagen 18K power glo.
My 2nd problem that has led to this post is that I recently bought a really nice "leng sy monti cap" with purple rim that is about 5" across and has already started to sprial nicly. With my bulb config I cannot see the purple rim anymore. when the lights are off and I use an LED flashlight the rim is a very brite purple.
I want my colors to pop, here's my current bulb config:
marine glo
aquablue +
atinic +
powerglo ( 18K)
atinic +
I'm using D&D and hagen bulbs I want to keep the blue look without my colors washing.
If I can find a retailer here in canada that sells ATI and UVL and will ship I want to go with this, let me know if it will work. I want to keep the blue look, provide enough light for my corals and, be able to see the purple rim on my Monti.
ATI blue+
D&D aquablue+
UVL super atinic
ATI pro color
ATI Blue +
I was thinking of adding a fiji purple instead of the pro color but decided to go with the pro color b/c they recommend fiji Purple for 6+ bulb fixtures and I only have 5 in my Tx5. I was also thinking of an aquasun bulb but it might be too much like the GE bulb was.
Thanks for taking the time to read this. I look forward to your responses
My 1st problem was under estimating the tx5. I sat the fixture on top of the tank without risers or window screen and bleached a couple acro's that came from a 250 W MH tank. I have solved this by adding 2 layers of window screen and replacing the G.E. 6500K bulb with a hagen 18K power glo.
My 2nd problem that has led to this post is that I recently bought a really nice "leng sy monti cap" with purple rim that is about 5" across and has already started to sprial nicly. With my bulb config I cannot see the purple rim anymore. when the lights are off and I use an LED flashlight the rim is a very brite purple.
I want my colors to pop, here's my current bulb config:
marine glo
aquablue +
atinic +
powerglo ( 18K)
atinic +
I'm using D&D and hagen bulbs I want to keep the blue look without my colors washing.
If I can find a retailer here in canada that sells ATI and UVL and will ship I want to go with this, let me know if it will work. I want to keep the blue look, provide enough light for my corals and, be able to see the purple rim on my Monti.
ATI blue+
D&D aquablue+
UVL super atinic
ATI pro color
ATI Blue +
I was thinking of adding a fiji purple instead of the pro color but decided to go with the pro color b/c they recommend fiji Purple for 6+ bulb fixtures and I only have 5 in my Tx5. I was also thinking of an aquasun bulb but it might be too much like the GE bulb was.
Thanks for taking the time to read this. I look forward to your responses
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
Upper half or so. Maybe a little lower.
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
Re: Need a sugestion
Re: Need a sugestion
6 lamp Tek retro (24 watt)
Blue Plus
UVL Aquasun
Blue Plus
GE 6500K Daylight
Blue Plus
Aquasun
Re: Need a sugestion
6 lamp Tek retro (24 watt)
Blue Plus
UVL Aquasun
Blue Plus
GE 6500K Daylight
Blue Plus
Aquasun
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13154896#post13154896 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by filippo
hi grim,
my brother just bought a 34G solana tank (20x20x20).
what T5 fixture would you recommend to keep corals, and clams too perhaps? how many bulbs and which ones (blue tint)?
he thinks that actinics bulbs are just for growth while Kelvins give the color to the tank. For instance, he's more for 3 actinics and 3 20K T5 for a deep purple/blue color - is he correct? and even if he is, do they even make 20" 20K t5 bulbs?
thank you
Actinics don't do much for growth, they have very low PAR.
Current is the only one with a fixture that will fit that tank. I think Marine Depot sells them
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
Pro Color is a little too much for a 4 lamp combo unless you want to go for a very subdued look, I actinic, Pro Color and two Blue Pluses.
For a more bright look
Fron
ATI Blue Plus
UVL Super Actinic
UVL Aquasun
ATI Blue Plus (Or for a more white look ATI Aquablue)
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13154999#post13154999 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Jeff cousteau
I have a 25 tall tank that's 21" tall. I'll be upgrading to a 30 tall that is 24" tall here in a few months. I am using the tx5 by Aquatinics and have a mixed reef that is/will be sps dominated.
My 1st problem was under estimating the tx5. I sat the fixture on top of the tank without risers or window screen and bleached a couple acro's that came from a 250 W MH tank. I have solved this by adding 2 layers of window screen and replacing the G.E. 6500K bulb with a hagen 18K power glo.
My 2nd problem that has led to this post is that I recently bought a really nice "leng sy monti cap" with purple rim that is about 5" across and has already started to sprial nicly. With my bulb config I cannot see the purple rim anymore. when the lights are off and I use an LED flashlight the rim is a very brite purple.
I want my colors to pop, here's my current bulb config:
marine glo
aquablue +
atinic +
powerglo ( 18K)
atinic +
I'm using D&D and hagen bulbs I want to keep the blue look without my colors washing.
If I can find a retailer here in canada that sells ATI and UVL and will ship I want to go with this, let me know if it will work. I want to keep the blue look, provide enough light for my corals and, be able to see the purple rim on my Monti.
ATI blue+
D&D aquablue+
UVL super atinic
ATI pro color
ATI Blue +
I was thinking of adding a fiji purple instead of the pro color but decided to go with the pro color b/c they recommend fiji Purple for 6+ bulb fixtures and I only have 5 in my Tx5. I was also thinking of an aquasun bulb but it might be too much like the GE bulb was.
Thanks for taking the time to read this. I look forward to your responses
What you have listed should work. I am not a fan of the fiji purple. I would rather have the UVL 75/25 but I think the pro color will do more to bring out the pink and purple colors in the tank
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