The T5 Q&a Thread

[Reybeast]

Lighting Temp and watts/gallon

Lighting Temp and watts/gallon

First, I should say Grim, you are prolific writer, I have sat and read so many of your postings, I dont understand how you can read and write so much in one day everyday, but I am thoroughly impressed. I am still shocked at amount of knowledge from the poster named Waterkeeper back in '05, those postings are truly awesome!! (titled: Alright Newbie; Let's shed some light on this subject). I have some specific questions that I really havnt seen addressed in your postings:

Current setup, 90G oceanic rectangular single return, 48Lx18Wx25T with Oceanic canopy (running for 4 months now)
Tunze wavemaker and (2) Koralia 1s, Oceanrunner 6500 in sump (return pump)
440W ARO ballast running (4) 110W T12s (2 blue, 2 white)
30 gallon trigger sump with Euroreef cs-6 skimmer
Temp swings from 79.5 to 82.5 max (no fans yet, will wire them in this weekend)
Mushrooms, Ricordea, (2)Birds nest, trumpet coral, zoas and star polyps, brain coral frag
1 each: flame angel, tomato clown, hog fish, flame hawk, starkii damsel, serpent star

I have an Icecap 430 ballast available to me (330w max)
Goals:
1. increase watts per gallon from approx 4.8 watts/gal to 5.5/ 6watts per Gallon (and get a clam!)
2. Get metal halide "shimmer"
3. to decrease water temp
4. lower light bill?

Assumptions: wiring in (2) 3.5inch fans, 1 to push air into canopy, one at other end to pull out air from canopy will reduce temp in canopy so lights can be modified. I can add more fans if necessary


Option #1 stay with what I have and just get new VHO bulbs

Option #2 remove VHO's, install the Icecap 430 with (4) 54W T5 and (2) 175W HQI MH (I would need to buy T5 kits, bulbs and all MH hardware)

Option #3 some combination of existing VHOs (4) or fewer and MHs

Thoughts:
option#1: cost effective but that’s about it. Doesn’t address anything, and fans should help the temp.
option #2: some cost involved for T5 kit and bulbs and MH costs as well. Is it hotter? Will the fans still keep water temp under control with this option?
Option #3: gets me goals #1 and 2, but I have to rely on the fans to keep water cool.
Is a chiller inevitable?

 

[The Grim Reefer]

Re: Re: Re: 120 gal lighting

Re: Re: Re: 120 gal lighting

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13289701#post13289701 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by vlepouce
Thanks Grim!

Another couple of question for you. If I don't do clams in the 120 would I be able to run T5's and keep my softies? Can I do clams on the bottom in a 55 gallon and run T5's on it? If so what bulbs?

Thanks!

You could easily keep softies in a 120 with T5's.

On a 55 a TX5 T5 unit would let you keep anything

Front
ATI Blue Plus
UVL Super Actinic
UVL Aquasun
ATI Blue Plus
GE 6500K

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13290358#post13290358 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by GrantMeThePower
Hi Grim.

I took your advice and ordered the IceCap 4x54 w retrokit from reefgeek. (guess the icecap doesn't refer to the ballast tho, its by someone else).

Anyway, the lights look great, but the wires are out of control. Do you have install tips on how to manage them/hide them and mount the ballasts?

What about the ground wire? where should i mount that, or do i just cap it?

Screw the ground wine to the ballast casing. Zip Ties will do wonders for cleaning up the wires. The HO Ice Cap system doesn't use the Ice Cap ballast which overdrives the sysrem

 

[The Grim Reefer]

Re: Lighting Temp and watts/gallon

Re: Lighting Temp and watts/gallon

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13290538#post13290538 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Reybeast
First, I should say Grim, you are prolific writer, I have sat and read so many of your postings, I dont understand how you can read and write so much in one day everyday, but I am thoroughly impressed. I am still shocked at amount of knowledge from the poster named Waterkeeper back in '05, those postings are truly awesome!! (titled: Alright Newbie; Let's shed some light on this subject). I have some specific questions that I really havnt seen addressed in your postings:

Current setup, 90G oceanic rectangular single return, 48Lx18Wx25T with Oceanic canopy (running for 4 months now)
Tunze wavemaker and (2) Koralia 1s, Oceanrunner 6500 in sump (return pump)
440W ARO ballast running (4) 110W T12s (2 blue, 2 white)
30 gallon trigger sump with Euroreef cs-6 skimmer
Temp swings from 79.5 to 82.5 max (no fans yet, will wire them in this weekend)
Mushrooms, Ricordea, (2)Birds nest, trumpet coral, zoas and star polyps, brain coral frag
1 each: flame angel, tomato clown, hog fish, flame hawk, starkii damsel, serpent star

I have an Icecap 430 ballast available to me (330w max)
Goals:
1. increase watts per gallon from approx 4.8 watts/gal to 5.5/ 6watts per Gallon (and get a clam!)
2. Get metal halide "shimmer"
3. to decrease water temp
4. lower light bill?

Assumptions: wiring in (2) 3.5inch fans, 1 to push air into canopy, one at other end to pull out air from canopy will reduce temp in canopy so lights can be modified. I can add more fans if necessary


Option #1 stay with what I have and just get new VHO bulbs

Option #2 remove VHO's, install the Icecap 430 with (4) 54W T5 and (2) 175W HQI MH (I would need to buy T5 kits, bulbs and all MH hardware)

Option #3 some combination of existing VHOs (4) or fewer and MHs

Thoughts:
option#1: cost effective but that’s about it. Doesn’t address anything, and fans should help the temp.
option #2: some cost involved for T5 kit and bulbs and MH costs as well. Is it hotter? Will the fans still keep water temp under control with this option?
Option #3: gets me goals #1 and 2, but I have to rely on the fans to keep water cool.
Is a chiller inevitable?

#1 I think Waterkeeper hit it rich with a new rocket fuel formula and is now laying on the beach in Tahitti where the women dont wear no tops!!!!

#2 Ice Cap 430 is only able to run 2 54 watt T5's.

#3 If you are going to use overdriven T5's you want to have a fan blowing in from the backat each side so the air blows down the row of endcaps on each side. Make vents near the top of the canopy so the hot air will be pushed out there.

I would use the 430 to run 2 VHO Super Actinics and get a 660 to run 4 T5's. 1 ATI Aquablue, 1 UVL Aquasun, I GE 6500K Daylight, 1 ATI Blue Plus

 

[onetrickpony]

What is the best way to protect and or clean the reflectors form saltwater discoloration. At my local store they had a 6 bulb setup down close to the top of the aquarium that had salt discoloration and salt creep.

 

[vlepouce]

Re: Re: Re: Re: 120 gal lighting

Re: Re: Re: Re: 120 gal lighting

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13290748#post13290748 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
You could easily keep softies in a 120 with T5's.

On a 55 a TX5 T5 unit would let you keep anything

Front
ATI Blue Plus
UVL Super Actinic
UVL Aquasun
ATI Blue Plus
GE 6500K

Thanks for all the great information. If I go to either the ATI, Solar Flare, Constellation, or TX5 can I run SPS on the bottom of the 120 along with the softies that I have? If so what bulbs would you recommend?

I know from this thread you like the ATI, but they are 4 to 8 weeks to get and the Solar Flare also looks like a competitive light. Any distinct advantage to the ATI over the Solar Flare?

Thanks!

 

[Aqua Keepers]

what retro should I use on my 55g? I'm planning an all SPS system. I have an 11 3/8" (front to back) space in my hood to work with. I was thinking an IC660 4 bulb retro that overdrives the bulbs. However, I like the idea of getting more bulbs under the hood with the Aquatinic reflectors for more color control. What do you all think?

I'm not sure if this is possible, but could I run 4bulbs on an IC660 with the Aquatinic reflectors and run on other t5 bulb + a VHO bulb on an other ballast? The VHO would be for actinic.

 

[jnb]

light assist

light assist

I recently purchased a 6 bulb fixture for my 120
My first try at color is way to pink for me and is

Front to back:
Blue Plus
Super Actinic
Aquablue Special
Pro Color
AquaSun
Blue Plus

I then went out and got a bulb and arranged as folows
_Front to back:
Blue Plus
Super Actinic
Aquablue Special
Pro Color
Giesemann Aquablue + Powerchrome color blue white 15000K
Blue Plus

and while better - it is still too pink for me I tend to like 20K XM color

I have all the following bulbs available and am looking for advice to get get less pink, the most par and hinting towards 20XM type color - my tank is below - the large one
thank you for any help

Giesemann Aquablue + Powerchrome coloe blue white 15000K
ATI 12000K Aquablue Special
ATI Blue Plus
ATI Blue Plus
ATI Blue Plus
ATI 12000K Aquablue Special
ATI Pro Color
UVL 10000K AquaSun
UVL Super Actinic

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13290867#post13290867 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by onetrickpony
What is the best way to protect and or clean the reflectors form saltwater discoloration. At my local store they had a 6 bulb setup down close to the top of the aquarium that had salt discoloration and salt creep.

Keep the lamps at least 4" above the water so they don't get messed up to begine with. .

I'm thinking aluminum wheel protectant of some sort might work. I'd be afraid of using a true polish because of the coating on the reflectors but if they are really nasty it couldn't hurt.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: 120 gal lighting

Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: 120 gal lighting

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13292183#post13292183 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by vlepouce
Thanks for all the great information. If I go to either the ATI, Solar Flare, Constellation, or TX5 can I run SPS on the bottom of the 120 along with the softies that I have? If so what bulbs would you recommend?

I know from this thread you like the ATI, but they are 4 to 8 weeks to get and the Solar Flare also looks like a competitive light. Any distinct advantage to the ATI over the Solar Flare?

Thanks!

Here's your problem. With a solar flare on a 120 you can keep clams and SPS happy but your softies are going to be about as happy as a cat having a bath. With halides you can find lower light areas to place the softies in. You can't hide from the light in a high powered T5 system.

A Constellation would be workable if you would keep the clams and SPS towards the rear. You could use lower PAR lamps at the front and keep the softies out there on the sand.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13292254#post13292254 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by pito
what retro should I use on my 55g? I'm planning an all SPS system. I have an 11 3/8" (front to back) space in my hood to work with. I was thinking an IC660 4 bulb retro that overdrives the bulbs. However, I like the idea of getting more bulbs under the hood with the Aquatinic reflectors for more color control. What do you all think?

I'm not sure if this is possible, but could I run 4bulbs on an IC660 with the Aquatinic reflectors and run on other t5 bulb + a VHO bulb on an other ballast? The VHO would be for actinic.

You could probably squeeze in 5 T5's with aquactinic reflectors. You really don't need to overdrive them on a 55.

What you could do is this

Front
ATI Blue Plus standard ballast
GE 6500K IC 660
VHO Actinic IC 660
UVL Aquasun IC660
ATI Blue Plus Standard Ballast

That would give you a nasty amount of PAR. Only downside is that the actinic wouldn't be on your dusk/dawn mix but the two blue plus lamps will look nice.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

Re: light assist

Re: light assist

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13292287#post13292287 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jnb
I recently purchased a 6 bulb fixture for my 120
My first try at color is way to pink for me and is

Front to back:
Blue Plus
Super Actinic
Aquablue Special
Pro Color
AquaSun
Blue Plus

I then went out and got a bulb and arranged as folows
_Front to back:
Blue Plus
Super Actinic
Aquablue Special
Pro Color
Giesemann Aquablue + Powerchrome color blue white 15000K
Blue Plus

and while better - it is still too pink for me I tend to like 20K XM color

I have all the following bulbs available and am looking for advice to get get less pink, the most par and hinting towards 20XM type color - my tank is below - the large one
thank you for any help

Giesemann Aquablue + Powerchrome coloe blue white 15000K
ATI 12000K Aquablue Special
ATI Blue Plus
ATI Blue Plus
ATI Blue Plus
ATI 12000K Aquablue Special
ATI Pro Color
UVL 10000K AquaSun
UVL Super Actinic

Front
Blue Plus
Aquablue
Blue Plus
Aquasun
Aquablue
Blue Plus

Try pulling the Aquasun for a super actinic, Aquablue or Blue Plus to see if you like the look better.

 

[Aqua Keepers]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13292254#post13292254 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by pito
what retro should I use on my 55g? I'm planning an all SPS system. I have an 11 3/8" (front to back) space in my hood to work with. I was thinking an IC660 4 bulb retro that overdrives the bulbs. However, I like the idea of getting more bulbs under the hood with the Aquatinic reflectors for more color control. What do you all think?

I'm not sure if this is possible, but could I run 4bulbs on an IC660 with the Aquatinic reflectors and run on other t5 bulb + a VHO bulb on an other ballast? The VHO would be for actinic.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13292798#post13292798 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
You could probably squeeze in 5 T5's with aquactinic reflectors. You really don't need to overdrive them on a 55.

What you could do is this

Front
ATI Blue Plus standard ballast
GE 6500K IC 660
VHO Actinic IC 660
UVL Aquasun IC660
ATI Blue Plus Standard Ballast

That would give you a nasty amount of PAR. Only downside is that the actinic wouldn't be on your dusk/dawn mix but the two blue plus lamps will look nice.

Just had an other idea/question, do you think I could arch the bulbs like a rainbow to fit 6bulbs.

 

[Reybeast]

Lighting temp and watts/gallon

Lighting temp and watts/gallon

Thanks Grim!
I never thought about holes in the top, I could put (2) 4 inch fans up there and (2) 3.5 inch in the back! I was curious about your statement on the (2) 54W T5s on the Icecap 430, Icecap's site shows the 430-008 can run any combo of lights to 330w. Also, if I increase the fans as described above, and really wanted MH, what config would you recommend then?
Forgot to mention earlier, my 90g has a center brace of glass, 1ft wide in the top center with a 1/2 inch plastic center strip. If I went with your config you mentioned earlier, what would the front to back positioning look like? I'm guessing:
Front
VHO Super Actinic
ATI Aquablue
Aquasun,
ATI Blue Plus
GE 6500K Daylight,
VHO Super Actinic
Back

 

[iverson387]

could you reccomend me a fixture and bulbs for a 48" 72 gallon bowfront tank. I would like to keep crocea clams but will keep them up high. I also have 4 inches of sand in the tank. I currently have 265 watt of pc so i could leave that on if i had a small enough fixture or just replace the whole thing.

 

[Fish n' Frags]

Hey Grim, hope you can help me out here.

I'm currently running 2-250W 14K Pheonix bulbs / 4x39W T5's on my personal tank.

front to back
Figi Purple
NG Coral Light 14K
Figi Purple
NG Coral Light 14K

I'm not getting the look i'm wanting. I get absolutely no actinic at all. SOOO, i'm switching to 2-250W XM 20K's. I'm looking for your help on what i should get for T5s? I was considering getting all 4 Geissman Pure Actinics.... Your thoughts? To much actinic? Tanks is top half SPS, bottom half LPS mostly acans.

 

[A.VOID]

Grim >>> I never see you recommend Fiji Purple.(Don't like the color?)
I'm considering a Fiji Purple swap for my Tek 4

Currently:
Super Act
AquaBlue+
AquaSun
Aquablue

Thoughts? I don't want to lose growth

 

[jnb]

Re: Re: light assist

Re: Re: light assist

thank you much better; brighter, bluer, less pink

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13292845#post13292845 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
Front
Blue Plus
Aquablue
Blue Plus
Aquasun
Aquablue
Blue Plus

Try pulling the Aquasun for a super actinic, Aquablue or Blue Plus to see if you like the look better.

 

[ctreefer]

Grim,

I have a few questions. I just converted my nano 29 gallon sps tank that has been using 3 overdriven 24” T5’s (1 aquablue, 2 actinic + on icecap 430 with reflectors). I’m now running 4 bulbs with reflectors. The current setup is 3 actinic + and one aquablue (these bulbs are all on the old side and I need to replace them soon.)

My questions are:

The brightness is to my eye about 60-70% of the 3 overdriven bulbs. If I switch out one actinic + for aquablue will it still be pretty blue/white? (I know when overdriven everything was much whiter)

My bulbs are about 9 months old and have been overdriven. Would they appear dimmer to my eye if they were spent? Should the new bulbs look brighter?

Lastly, do you have any recommendations of alternate bulbs that will maximize par but give a similar color to 14K phoenix? (I haven’t been following the different brand bulbs and have always been using Geissman for the last 3 years.)

Thanks for your help!

 

[seaspy]

Thanks Grim!