The T5 Q&a Thread

[snaza]

I have a cheap t5 fixture for my frag tank and it has an acrylic cover. There is no active cooling so it gets very very hot. what is the best way to cool a fixture like this? they are pretty much sealed so i cant get air in under the acrylic splash guard.

thanks

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13293027#post13293027 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by pito
Just had an other idea/question, do you think I could arch the bulbs like a rainbow to fit 6bulbs.

You could,

 

[The Grim Reefer]

Re: Lighting temp and watts/gallon

Re: Lighting temp and watts/gallon

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13293476#post13293476 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Reybeast
Thanks Grim!
I never thought about holes in the top, I could put (2) 4 inch fans up there and (2) 3.5 inch in the back! I was curious about your statement on the (2) 54W T5s on the Icecap 430, Icecap's site shows the 430-008 can run any combo of lights to 330w. Also, if I increase the fans as described above, and really wanted MH, what config would you recommend then?
Forgot to mention earlier, my 90g has a center brace of glass, 1ft wide in the top center with a 1/2 inch plastic center strip. If I went with your config you mentioned earlier, what would the front to back positioning look like? I'm guessing:
Front
VHO Super Actinic
ATI Aquablue
Aquasun,
ATI Blue Plus
GE 6500K Daylight,
VHO Super Actinic
Back

Ice Cap 430 can only run 2 54 watt T5 lamps, that is per Ice Cap, not me.

That positioning should be fine.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13293699#post13293699 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by iverson387
could you reccomend me a fixture and bulbs for a 48" 72 gallon bowfront tank. I would like to keep crocea clams but will keep them up high. I also have 4 inches of sand in the tank. I currently have 265 watt of pc so i could leave that on if i had a small enough fixture or just replace the whole thing.

Aquactinics TX5

Front
ATI Blue Plus
UVL 75/25
GE 6500K Daylight
ATI Blue Plus
ATI Aquablue

Should have lotsa PAR.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13294122#post13294122 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Fish n' Frags
Hey Grim, hope you can help me out here.

I'm currently running 2-250W 14K Pheonix bulbs / 4x39W T5's on my personal tank.

front to back
Figi Purple
NG Coral Light 14K
Figi Purple
NG Coral Light 14K

I'm not getting the look i'm wanting. I get absolutely no actinic at all. SOOO, i'm switching to 2-250W XM 20K's. I'm looking for your help on what i should get for T5s? I was considering getting all 4 Geissman Pure Actinics.... Your thoughts? To much actinic? Tanks is top half SPS, bottom half LPS mostly acans.

Before you go switching the halides try better T5's. IMO what you have now would be a better compliment to 20K halides.

For the Phoenix try

Blue Plus
Super Actinic
Super Actinic
Blue Plus

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13295612#post13295612 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by A.VOID
Grim >>> I never see you recommend Fiji Purple.(Don't like the color?)
I'm considering a Fiji Purple swap for my Tek 4

Currently:
Super Act
AquaBlue+
AquaSun
Aquablue

Thoughts? I don't want to lose growth

I don't think the fiji is worth the premium they want for them. For 10 bux less the UVL 75/25 is very close. I am actually running a FP right now and noticed that once they have some time on them they do have a little purple in the color.

In your mix I would add in a Blue Plus in place of an aquablue or the actinic and see what you think.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13296434#post13296434 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ctreefer
Grim,

I have a few questions. I just converted my nano 29 gallon sps tank that has been using 3 overdriven 24” T5’s (1 aquablue, 2 actinic + on icecap 430 with reflectors). I’m now running 4 bulbs with reflectors. The current setup is 3 actinic + and one aquablue (these bulbs are all on the old side and I need to replace them soon.)

My questions are:

The brightness is to my eye about 60-70% of the 3 overdriven bulbs. If I switch out one actinic + for aquablue will it still be pretty blue/white? (I know when overdriven everything was much whiter)

My bulbs are about 9 months old and have been overdriven. Would they appear dimmer to my eye if they were spent? Should the new bulbs look brighter?

Lastly, do you have any recommendations of alternate bulbs that will maximize par but give a similar color to 14K phoenix? (I haven’t been following the different brand bulbs and have always been using Geissman for the last 3 years.)

Thanks for your help!

If you are running all 4 lamps on the 430 you are taking a chance. Ice Cap was iffy about running even 3 T5's on those ballasts.

If you are running fans to cool the ends of the lamps you may get a year out of the lamps, dunno. 24 watt lamps are overdriven further than any other. You could probably see a difference between a new blue lamp and a worn out one ran side by side.

For your lamp mix try

Actinic Plus or ATI Blue Plus
UVL Aquasun
Aquablue (Giesemann or ATI brand)
AP or Blue Plus

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13297265#post13297265 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by snaza
I have a cheap t5 fixture for my frag tank and it has an acrylic cover. There is no active cooling so it gets very very hot. what is the best way to cool a fixture like this? they are pretty much sealed so i cant get air in under the acrylic splash guard.

thanks

Retrofit the fixture to a dumpster:lol: :lol: :lol:

Remove the shield and raise the fixture a little so it doesn't get salt spray. 3~4 inches above the water.

 

[ctreefer]

Sorry Grim, I should have been clearer. The 4 bulbs are now running on Triad ballasts. I know the 430 won't power 4 of the 24's. I've ditched the 430 as my ballast. Also, I still have the fans in my hood aiming down the length of the bulbs. Will this be a problem with the normal driven T5 HO's?

Just to clarify, AP is actinic plus?

thanks again,

vince

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13297954#post13297954 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ctreefer
Sorry Grim, I should have been clearer. The 4 bulbs are now running on Triad ballasts. I know the 430 won't power 4 of the 24's. I've ditched the 430 as my ballast. Also, I still have the fans in my hood aiming down the length of the bulbs. Will this be a problem with the normal driven T5 HO's?

Just to clarify, AP is actinic plus?

thanks again,

vince

AP Actinic Plus

You don't want too much air blowing directly on the lamps. If you use waterproof endcaps having the fans blow right at the endcaps would probably be fin. Just make sure the label end of the lamps are at the end with the fans.

 

[jnb]

I never heard about this - the ends with the labels are different and are the ends that should be cooled? As mentioned above I just installed an ATI and it happens that I installed the bulbs so each label was on the left side facing the front which is where the exhaust to the fans is.

or was that a joke?

Just make sure the label end of the lamps are at the end with the fans. [/B][/QUOTE]

 

[jmckdvm]

Grim,

I am in the process of converting my three Current USA Compact Fluorescent fixtures to T5's. I've made one conversion so far but am frustrated with the look of any combination of UVL bulbs that I've tried....(way too purple). I just ordered a large assortment of Giesemann and AquaScience bulbs (to replace or compliment the UVL bulbs). I'm wondering if you would mind giving suggestions of bulb combinations for my three fixtures using any combination of these bulbs.

Now that I bought all these bulbs, I guess it would be nice if I can use them all eventually, but I'll be willing to sacrifice some for a better look. Although I'd prefer to work with the bulbs I have, I'd consider adding ATI into the mix if you feel strongly about doing so:

UVL: Super Actinic
Actinic/White
75:25
AquaSun

Giesemann: Actinic +
AquaBlue
Midday

AquaScience: Special (15K)
Blue (20K)
DUO

My Current USA fixtures:

A. 48" with two 150W Ushio 10K halides; four T5's (2 on each side of halides): (120gal tank)

B. 48": eight T5's (75 gal tank)

C. 36": four T5's (50 gal tank)

Thank you for your help!

Jim

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13298230#post13298230 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jnb
I never heard about this - the ends with the labels are different and are the ends that should be cooled? As mentioned above I just installed an ATI and it happens that I installed the bulbs so each label was on the left side facing the front which is where the exhaust to the fans is.

or was that a joke?

Just make sure the label end of the lamps are at the end with the fans.

[/B][/QUOTE]

No joking, It doesn't make a huge difference but the lamps have what is called a cold spot which is at the label end of the lamp. You get a slightly better result if that end is cooled.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13299524#post13299524 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jmckdvm
Grim,

I am in the process of converting my three Current USA Compact Fluorescent fixtures to T5's. I've made one conversion so far but am frustrated with the look of any combination of UVL bulbs that I've tried....(way too purple). I just ordered a large assortment of Giesemann and AquaScience bulbs (to replace or compliment the UVL bulbs). I'm wondering if you would mind giving suggestions of bulb combinations for my three fixtures using any combination of these bulbs.

Now that I bought all these bulbs, I guess it would be nice if I can use them all eventually, but I'll be willing to sacrifice some for a better look. Although I'd prefer to work with the bulbs I have, I'd consider adding ATI into the mix if you feel strongly about doing so:

UVL: Super Actinic
Actinic/White
75:25
AquaSun

Giesemann: Actinic +
AquaBlue
Midday

AquaScience: Special (15K)
Blue (20K)
DUO

My Current USA fixtures:

A. 48" with two 150W Ushio 10K halides; four T5's (2 on each side of halides): (120gal tank)

B. 48": eight T5's (75 gal tank)

C. 36": four T5's (50 gal tank)

Thank you for your help!

Jim

I think I can do you more good explaining what the lamps look like so you can come up with mixes for the different tanks

The UVL Super Actinic will give some blue light as well as the UV and Violet. Nice for a tabk with softies and does nice fluorescing greens and oranges.

The actiic whiite has some red in the output, unless you have enough blue lamps it just looks nasty

UVL 75/25 is nice, slightly purple tint. Nice for adding a little red and brightening up a blue mix of lamps or adding a little reed to help with pink or purple colors without giving the tank a pink look

UVL Aquasun has a little more red in the output and lotsa PAR. You gotta run blue lamps with them or they don't look all that great.

Giesemann Actinic Plus Blue lamp, fluoresces most colors pretty good and has pretty good PAR

Aquablue is white with a slight blue tint. Has a lot of PAR. Not very good at washing out yellow or green colors of low K daylight lamps Is 60% actinic phophores so wiill give some fluorescence but not like the blue or actinic lamps

Midday is a yellowish white with good PAR.

AS Special is a really nuetral white, probably be best for a fish only but would also be nice

Duo is a slightly bluer version of an Aquablue, Has pretty good PAR as well.

22000K is their blue lamp.

How you mix them will depend on the look you want

Using a lamp with some red output will darken greens a tad (in a nice way) and pop pimk and purple colors. The daylight and midday really bring out yellow and green colors. The blues make red look more rich and of course blues as well. The Aquablues are really good for brightening up the look without adding yellowish tint.

Just wing it and see what you come up with, Then come back with questions if you need help.

 

[Todd March]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13300038#post13300038 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
...Not very good at washing out yellow or green colors of low K daylight lamps ...

I'm not sure, Grim, what you're saying here...?

Are you saying the ABS tends to wash out yellows and greens, unlike lower K lamps...?

Or that it is not good at balancing the strong yellow tones of lower K daylight bulbs...? (this is what I have my money bet on that you meant)....

 

[Fireworm]

Grim,

I have a 90g mixed reef, but getting more and more into the sps. I also have 2 clams. Right now on one side of the tank I have 1 400w 14k, and on the other side I have 1 250w 10 XM( for my acros) and 1 400w 20k. This is a lot of light and I know that, but it is even a bigger electric bill. I want to switch over to T5 to cut down my cost. That and I like the fact that I can change the color of the bulbs easier. I was thinking of going with the Icecap 6 bulb retro from reef geek. What I am wondering is if I will have enough light with that for the clams. My sps is high in the tank so they should be ok, but i don't want to end up killing my clams by not giving them enough light. Infact I would like to add more of them yet. What suggestions do you have?

 

[jnb]

the cold spot - what is it? - how does it differ from the other end - just trying to learn

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13299996#post13299996 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer

No joking, It doesn't make a huge difference but the lamps have what is called a cold spot which is at the label end of the lamp. You get a slightly better result if that end is cooled. [/B][/QUOTE]

 

[major926]

t5 lighting

t5 lighting

hellow Grim, i have a 36"x12"x24" 45g tank with leathers & shrooms. my lighting is 192 watt CF. i'm thinking about upgrading to t5's, & try LPS. would a 4 bulb t5 fixture be enough light or should i go with the aquacintics tx5 5 bulb fixture? also what bulb config. do you recomend? thanks major926.

 

[JRechcygl]

Grim, thanks again for all the help, we all appreciate it!!
Another question for you,
If people use 3x250 MH bulbs with much success in 180 and so forth wouldn't I be able to achieve the same success if not better if I could cram 800 watts of T5 in there. I noticed the Teks say the reflectors are 2 3/4 in the spec sheet and the SLR and the Aquactinic reflectors are 2" if I could cram 10 or 11 bulbs in there shouldn't that be good to grow SPS say 2/3 the way down but still leave room for LPS at the bottom, acans and caulastrea and the like.
If the T5 works, what would you recommend for 5' bulbs preferrably Geiseman, to achieve the highest PAR value but not too yellow/white.

Thank you very much!

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13300071#post13300071 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Todd March
I'm not sure, Grim, what you're saying here...?

Are you saying the ABS tends to wash out yellows and greens, unlike lower K lamps...?

Or that it is not good at balancing the strong yellow tones of lower K daylight bulbs...? (this is what I have my money bet on that you meant)....

The lower K lamps tend to have yellow/greenish tints. The Aquablues are not great at eliminating that tint. Blue lamps work better.