The T5 Q&a Thread

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13600972#post13600972 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by SteveJakubiec
What T-5 fixture would you recommend for my 180g? I want to be able to keep any type of SPS, Clams, etc. 72"x24"x24" Is the Tank size. Also, it would be nice if I could keep them anywhere in the tank.

Aquactinics Constellation is going to give you the best shot but I am not sure about "Anywhere in the tank". You are still going to need to keep the high light acros a little higher in the tank.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13602940#post13602940 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by CamBarr
I have a 40 gallon that i am setting up should i use a 4 bulb or 6 bulb retro kit? tank Dims are 36"x 16"x16"

4 would be fine

 

[deathdealerps3]

Grim thanks for the 40+ pages of info, and your Red House (webpage) is a wealth of T5 info.

I was wondering if you have any thoughts on preferred height of bulb over the waterline.

I would image that length of bulb shouldnt matter, but the depth of the tank (top to bottom) would matter.

I am thinking 6-8" above water line for most setups...thoughts?

 

[CamBarr]

has anyone used the HelloLights retrofit kits??? also what is a good bulb height from the water? I am going to use 4 bulbs to run my sps and clam tank that measures 36"x 16"x16" should i use 6 bulbs or will i be fine with the 4?

cam

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13604706#post13604706 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by deathdealerps3
Grim thanks for the 40+ pages of info, and your Red House (webpage) is a wealth of T5 info.

I was wondering if you have any thoughts on preferred height of bulb over the waterline.

I would image that length of bulb shouldnt matter, but the depth of the tank (top to bottom) would matter.

I am thinking 6-8" above water line for most setups...thoughts?

ABout 4" is the minimum unless you have a splash shield. DDepending on tank depth lower is better

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13607441#post13607441 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by CamBarr
has anyone used the HelloLights retrofit kits??? also what is a good bulb height from the water? I am going to use 4 bulbs to run my sps and clam tank that measures 36"x 16"x16" should i use 6 bulbs or will i be fine with the 4?

cam

4 should be fine. Make sure you are getting good reflectors.

 

[CamBarr]

what makes a good reflector??

 

[CamBarr]

what makes a good reflector??

 

[thepollock]

iam new to the t5's but i just switched from mh to t5 and i love it. thanks for all the info grim.

 

[serum153]

Hey Grim. I have a 75 with a 4 bulb 660 retro per your advice and love it. I have had 2 super actinics go out in the same spot. Place assured me it wasn't the bulbs, but icecap is certain a ballast wouldn't do it either. Wiring was snug, not loose. I have had

Blue +
Super Actinic
Aquasun
Blue +

I am hesitant in getting another super actinic, but love the look. What would you throw in it's place or into this configuration?

 

[reddaemon]

Hi Grim,

I setting up a SPS tank which will be 62Lx32Wx22H. I want to be able to keep SPS anyware but would like lower light on the edges for Zoas and LPS. What fixture and bulb combo? I was thinking a 4ft fixture. Money isnt an issue.

thanks

 

[IslandCrow]

Grim (or anyone else who has some good advice),

I know you recommend not using the splash shield for the Teks, but I'll get some occasional salt spray either from my return pump starting up (the siphon holes produce some splutter) or me just splashing my hands around in the tank. Anyway, because of this, I've elected to keep the acrylic in place. I've been thinking about cutting off some of the length of the shield, though, because I'm mostly just worried about protecting the reflectors from the occasional bit of salt spray. Do you think that would be helpful for keeping the bulbs a little cooler?

 

[m3fan8ic]

Grim,
I have 4x48 IceCap retro kit with 660 ballast and 2x36 IC kit running by WorkHorse ballast.
All the bulbs are by Guiesemann in following order
AquaBlue+
Actinic+
Pure Actinic
AquaBlue+
AquaBlue+
Actinic+
Does this order seems okay? I am trying to keep SPSs, softies and couple of clams. Currently I have Millie, slimer, Acro, monti, RBTA, Anem, leather, shoorms etc and they are all doing fine. I can see the pulps are opened and etc
I want to give it little more purple look but same time want the good growth. What do you suggest?
thanks
Sid

 

[Everyones Hero]

I'm trying to remember what lights are good for growth & which are mostly for looks.

Can anyone confirm the following?
-Bulbs in the 6500 range are more red/orange & are for plant growth.
-10k & 14k are white & meant for looks.
-Acintics are in the 420-440nm range, are blue, & meant for growth.

 

[Todd March]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13616119#post13616119 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Everyones Hero
I'm trying to remember what lights are good for growth & which are mostly for looks.

Can anyone confirm the following?
-Bulbs in the 6500 range are more red/orange & are for plant growth.
-10k & 14k are white & meant for looks.
-Acintics are in the 420-440nm range, are blue, & meant for growth.

That's kinda rough, but it'll work, again, roughly...

3000K-4000K are really about the red/orange spectrum. 6500K is really a balanced daylight, and more balance, but have much more green-yellow spectrum than any other bulbs. But note that 6500K bulbs have as much blue as 20K bulbs, you just can't see it through the heavy green-yellow-red spectrum that the bulb excels at.

I don't know if I would say that white lampsâ€"10K-15Kâ€"are about "looks", other than if you mean that they give a more objective "natural" color. When talking coral color looks (as in enhanced colors), I think of blue bulbs...

Actinic bulbs are violet, and at the end of the ultraviolet spectrum, 420nm. This is also the peak of the photosynthethis. Ultraviolet light will fluoresce capable corals (usually greenâ€"those with GFP) the best.

Blue bulbs are at 440-450nm, and are blue. They can also fluoresce capable corals, though not nearly as well as true UV actinics.

Then you have the speciality bulbs like the Fiji Purple that fluoresce capable corals pretty well, and add much reds spectrum; or the Pro Color that is heavy in red, but doesn't drab things out like a 3000K for instance...

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13609388#post13609388 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by CamBarr
what makes a good reflector??

Miro material and a proper design. Regular polished aluminum or stainless don't work well.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13609504#post13609504 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by serum153
Hey Grim. I have a 75 with a 4 bulb 660 retro per your advice and love it. I have had 2 super actinics go out in the same spot. Place assured me it wasn't the bulbs, but icecap is certain a ballast wouldn't do it either. Wiring was snug, not loose. I have had

Blue +
Super Actinic
Aquasun
Blue +

I am hesitant in getting another super actinic, but love the look. What would you throw in it's place or into this configuration?

Any signs of damage to the lamp, burnt pins, black rings etc?

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13610039#post13610039 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by reddaemon
Hi Grim,

I setting up a SPS tank which will be 62Lx32Wx22H. I want to be able to keep SPS anyware but would like lower light on the edges for Zoas and LPS. What fixture and bulb combo? I was thinking a 4ft fixture. Money isnt an issue.

thanks

10 x 54 watt ATI Powermodule.

Front
ATI Blue Plus
GE 6500K Daylight
ATI Blue Plus
ATI Pro Color
ATI Aquablue
ATI Blue Plus
UVL Aquasun
ATI Blue Plus
UVL 75/25
ATI Blue Plus

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13610463#post13610463 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by IslandCrow
Grim (or anyone else who has some good advice),

I know you recommend not using the splash shield for the Teks, but I'll get some occasional salt spray either from my return pump starting up (the siphon holes produce some splutter) or me just splashing my hands around in the tank. Anyway, because of this, I've elected to keep the acrylic in place. I've been thinking about cutting off some of the length of the shield, though, because I'm mostly just worried about protecting the reflectors from the occasional bit of salt spray. Do you think that would be helpful for keeping the bulbs a little cooler?

Fosters and smith sells Azoo fan arrays. Grab one of those and clamp it to the side of the tank so it will blow in the side vent holes on the fixture. Mount your lamps so the label end of the lamps are on that side too.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13613029#post13613029 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by m3fan8ic
Grim,
I have 4x48 IceCap retro kit with 660 ballast and 2x36 IC kit running by WorkHorse ballast.
All the bulbs are by Guiesemann in following order
AquaBlue+
Actinic+
Pure Actinic
AquaBlue+
AquaBlue+
Actinic+
Does this order seems okay? I am trying to keep SPSs, softies and couple of clams. Currently I have Millie, slimer, Acro, monti, RBTA, Anem, leather, shoorms etc and they are all doing fine. I can see the pulps are opened and etc
I want to give it little more purple look but same time want the good growth. What do you suggest?
thanks
Sid

Pull a Aquablue and replace it with a UVL Aquasun. I'd maybe move the rear actinic Plus forward a spot if thats possible. I'd also grab another Actinic Plus or a UVL Super Actinic, you will probably want a little more blue with the pinkish tint of the aquasun in the mix.