The T5 Q&a Thread

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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13800864#post13800864 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
I suspect it is the ATI Aquablue. I have had two people who attended one of Sanjay's talks say he found the ATI Blue Plus had higher output than the UVL Aquasun which had been the highest PAR of any available lamp I had tested.

The Apogee meter under reports blue spectrum. Sanjay uses high end equipment that is more accurate. I get reading about 10% below a Aquasun for the aquablue lamp. Because there is a large amount of blue spectrum in the aquablue I gotta assume it is being read low by the PAR meter as well.

Much appreciated, Grim. :)

I have a 4x54W fixture with (2) blue plus and (2) 10Ks. I like the look of (2) blue plus and I'm looking to replace the (2) 10Ks with whatever lamp has the highest PAR.

With your reply, I'm going with:

blue plus
aquablue
blue plus
aquablue

Do you have any thoughts on this combo? I have no clue on what this is going to look like. I hope it wouldn't be too blue. :)
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13801242#post13801242 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
Sorry. Keep seeing that and going to get back to you :D

Shrooms take a long time but they will adapt to the light. Most zoos should to.

My SPS is going hog wild but the shrooms and zoas are not happy after a year. This was not a problem in the last tank with a weaker Tek light.
 
Hi Grim,

I have a 180 SPS tank (72X24X24) with Acans and Clams on the bottom. I am plannig to get the 72" Aquactinics T5 Constellation. Is this the right light for my tank? Will my SPS get enough light?
If yes, can you tell me the what lamps to go with to get the best result for my SPS, and in what order?

Thanks in advance
Kenneth
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13801667#post13801667 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by kmacartney
My SPS is going hog wild but the shrooms and zoas are not happy after a year. This was not a problem in the last tank with a weaker Tek light.

I would think it's something other than light. Thingd that come to mind are flow, too little nutrients, chemical warfare, etc... I'd start a new thead and try to figure what could be the prob.
 
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Re: fixture

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13801238#post13801238 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Gravesj1s
Hi, what are your tank dimensions? Could you use a 4 bulb ATI power module? It has twice the output of the tek 6 bulb. It is also slightly ahead of the TX5 aquatinics 5 bulb fixture. Lastly I found going with the 4 bulb power module to be cheaper than the TX5.

ATI 48"-4 BULB :with bulbs and shipping -580.00
just thought you may want to consider.
-Graves

it is a standard 90 gallon RR from oceanic (48 x 22 x 22 deep or something like that)

this is maddening LOL. i guess one thing i have going for me with the TX5 is i won't have to pay for shipping, i can either pick it up or he can drop it off at the LFS.

how are 4 bulbs going to be better lighting than 5 or 6 bulbs? the reflectors or something?

i am definitely leaning towards the TX5, which lights should i put in it?
 
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Re: Re: fixture

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13802773#post13802773 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by renogaw
it is a standard 90 gallon RR from oceanic (48 x 22 x 22 deep or something like that)
I did a quick google your dimensions should be 48x18x24

this is maddening LOL. i guess one thing i have going for me with the TX5 is i won't have to pay for shipping, i can either pick it up or he can drop it off at the LFS.
I dont want to speak for Grim or highjack his thread. I just seams the 4 bulb ATI power module has been overlooked and under rated mostly compared to TX5 , not really sure why.
Well here is how I was looking at it Again just something for you to consider.
Aquatinics TX5 462.00 plus the additional cost of 5 bulbs ,riser bracket if needed. You will be over the cost of the power module.
It will cost more in bulb replacement, more in electricity and still not have quite the par of the power module.

how are 4 bulbs going to be better lighting than 5 or 6 bulbs? the reflectors or something?
you can find all the info here in Grim Reefers thread.
In short better reflectors and active cooling .

i am definitely leaning towards the TX5, which lights should i put in it?
Your call ,I just wanted to give another option. I would use ATI bulbs in what ever fixture you decided to use.Grims testing indicates as high or higher par than any t-5 bulb I could find info on.
good luck, I hope this helps clarify better.-Graves
 
Re: Re: Re: fixture

Re: Re: Re: fixture

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13803258#post13803258 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Gravesj1s
Your call ,I just wanted to give another option. I would use ATI bulbs in what ever fixture you decided to use.Grims testing indicates as high or higher par than any t-5 bulb I could find info on.
good luck, I hope this helps clarify better.-Graves

oh hehe, i'm sorry if i made you think i was upset or something. there's just way too much out there and it makes my head spin :)
 
Re: Re: fixture

Re: Re: fixture

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13802773#post13802773 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by renogaw


how are 4 bulbs going to be better lighting than 5 or 6 bulbs? the reflectors or something?


reflectors, type of cooling, and ballasts all can make a four bulb fixture better than a six bulb.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13800856#post13800856 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
WHat lamps are you running and how old are they?

With 4 blue plus and 2 Aquablue a Tek does over 200 at the sandbed if I cool it. That is about 17" below the water surface with the light about 2" above.

Constellation was in the 240's with 4 blues 2 actinics and a Pro Color

Blue plus
blue plus
Fiji
Aqua blue
blue plus
Aqua blue
blue plus

Bulbs are about 6 months old. my sandbed is 22inch though so maybe i'll measure it at 17 and see. I just thought i would get more that 450 about 1 inch underwater.

Im running fans to cool the endcaps.

When i turn on my lamps the par goes up and up to about 500 then slowly creeps down to 450. does that mean i need more fans for cooling?

I've seen par readings of 400 on the sandbed at 24inchs with powermodules. Can they really put out so much more par than a SLR's

thanks
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13794574#post13794574 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
Tek

2 ATI Blue Plus

1 GE 6500K Daylight

1 UVL Aquasun

Would these be your 4 choices for a general show tank as well (vs. the frag tank)?
 
I have coralife 36" T5 Light fixture 4 x 39w x2
over my
Perfecto 125g Corner flow tank. Should I upgrade to like a 6 or 8 fixture per fixture or should I add icecap SLR individual reflectors and may be upgrade the ballasts to icecap660s. or should I upgrade to 6 or 8 fixture and add icecap SLR individual reflectors and may be upgrade the ballasts to icecap660s.

I currently have
2 osc clowns
1 yellow tang
1 salfin tang
1 sand sifting goby
1 cleaner shrimp
1 torch coral
1 plate coral
1 brain coral
5 branches of pulsing xenia
 
Re: Re: Re: Re: fixture

Re: Re: Re: Re: fixture

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13803447#post13803447 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by renogaw
oh hehe, i'm sorry if i made you think i was upset or something. there's just way too much out there and it makes my head spin :)

Some how my reply is formatted in bold with yours. Only last paragraph wasn't. Not sure how that happened.

Not sure if you saw that or not . I dont know how to do quotes very well. Sorta screwed it up.lol.Can you reread my last post, I didn't take it that you were upset:)

Good luck with which ever fixture you decide.
-Graves
 
you know, of course, that we need PICS PICS PICS!!!


<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13801439#post13801439 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by chad508
finally got my lights installed. i went with 2 icecap retros. i am running in this order:
blue+
aquasun
blue+
75/25
blue+
aquasun
blue+
75/25

i fill that the lamps blend well but would like it a tad bit bluer. i tried a uri attinic but made no difference. would a aquablue in the mix help out are should i just add in a few more blue+. i did plan to add a ge 6500 to the mix but was shipped a uri attinic white instead. i found this bulb not to my likings at all.
 
Hey Grim, what's the 'max temp' in the canopy for running 6 retro overdriven t5's? My canopy is half open in the back, I have a fan blowing down each row of endcaps and it's still 125 degrees in the center, the hottest area.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13805273#post13805273 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jlaurence32
Hey Grim, what's the 'max temp' in the canopy for running 6 retro overdriven t5's? My canopy is half open in the back, I have a fan blowing down each row of endcaps and it's still 125 degrees in the center, the hottest area.

Below is some info that an other member (I don't remember who, but very respected on the boards) gave me that should help you:

T5s have a "coldspot" which is the end of the lamp where the manufacturer's writing is. What you need to do on a retro is have all the lamps oriented so the coldspots are at the same end and blow a fan across that end and it will hit all the coldspots. You want the temperature of the coldspot to as close to 113 fahrenheit as you can get it consistently. This keeps the rest of the bulb(s) at 95 fahrenheit which is the optimal temp for making PAR and bulb longevity.

Best way to measure the temp is with a non-contact thermometer, ie laser pyrometer. You can get one for like a $30 one from harbor freight tools. Kragen also sells a more expensive one for measuring brake and engine temps.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13805331#post13805331 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by pito
Below is some info that an other member (I don't remember who, but very respected on the boards) gave me that should help you:

T5s have a "coldspot" which is the end of the lamp where the manufacturer's writing is. What you need to do on a retro is have all the lamps oriented so the coldspots are at the same end and blow a fan across that end and it will hit all the coldspots. You want the temperature of the coldspot to as close to 113 fahrenheit as you can get it consistently. This keeps the rest of the bulb(s) at 95 fahrenheit which is the optimal temp for making PAR and bulb longevity.

Best way to measure the temp is with a non-contact thermometer, ie laser pyrometer. You can get one for like a $30 one from harbor freight tools. Kragen also sells a more expensive one for measuring brake and engine temps.

Thanks for this posted info, pito... After reading this, I realized that the bulbs were oriented in the WRONG way in my Powermodule. I have wondered why only one end of the fixture has vents (that you can feel the warm air flowing out of). So I pulled all 10 bulbs out, wiping the reflectors shiny in the process, and then reoriented them in the right direction.

This might help to explain the heavy shift in spectrum I have noticed in my 5 month old Pure Actinics...

I also re-read my instructions, and they didn't mention any of this, as I thought I remembered. I think it would be great if Greg changed the Powermodule instructions to reflect this.
 
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I have a 36" long tank, 12" wide, 16" deep. It will be a frag/grow-out tank..... I will be making a canopy and using T5 retrofit kits, as I already have one 2 bulb kit with reflectors. I know I need more bulbs, and plan on getting another 2 bulb kit. Will I be able to squeeze 4 bulbs and 4 reflectors over it or should I just use one large reflector for all four bulbs? It would seem I would probably get more light with 4 individual reflectors, but it's going to be tight.......

Which 4 bulb combo would you recommend for best growth for a mixed grow-out/frag tank?

And lastly, Grim Reefer, how do you know so much about T5's?!

Thanks! :)
 
Thanks Pito, I removed my clip-on fan when I installed my two 3" muffin fans and the muffin fans don't push anything compared to the clip fan. I put my clip-on back last night and will check the new temp today.
 
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