The T5 Q&a Thread

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13801610#post13801610 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Enterprise
Thanks Grim, I appreciate the input.

Both fans are blowing out, the "Stealth" fan has stickers on both sides.

I have been thinking of getting more airflow to the endcaps myself. I think I follow your idea, but to be honest you lost me a little. I was thinking about adding a splash shield, in the form of a thin acrylic sheet. I believe this shield would force air to be drawn in from the endcaps, and over the length of the bulbs before being exhausted from the center. Do you think this would work? Trying to create the chamber above the reflectors would be a real trick, as there is not much space between the end of the fixture and the endcaps, plus there is not a lot of room for a way to attach that piece of Al.

If adding a splash shield is an option that will work BUT, your vent holes in the ends are so high you will probably just pull the air in right above the lamps. If you can re do the end plates I would set the holes at the bottom to make sure you get airflow past the lamp ends.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13801619#post13801619 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by JeffReef
Much appreciated, Grim.

I have a 4x54W fixture with (2) blue plus and (2) 10Ks. I like the look of (2) blue plus and I'm looking to replace the (2) 10Ks with whatever lamp has the highest PAR.

With your reply, I'm going with:

blue plus
aquablue
blue plus
aquablue

Do you have any thoughts on this combo? I have no clue on what this is going to look like. I hope it wouldn't be too blue.

I'd use a GE 6500K daylight or UVL aquasun with the Aquablue and 2 Blue Plus. It will give you better color is you have yellow or pink colors in the tank.

 

[ukroylisa]

Sfiligoi Super Actinic Blue 03 PAR comparison

Sfiligoi Super Actinic Blue 03 PAR comparison

Grim,
How do these bulbs compare with the ATI Blue plus or the Geismann Super Actinic as far as PAR is concerned?
Thanks in advance.
Roy

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13802351#post13802351 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by loibe
Hi Grim,

I have a 180 SPS tank (72X24X24) with Acans and Clams on the bottom. I am plannig to get the 72" Aquactinics T5 Constellation. Is this the right light for my tank? Will my SPS get enough light?
If yes, can you tell me the what lamps to go with to get the best result for my SPS, and in what order?

Thanks in advance
Kenneth

SHould do well.

Front
ATI Blue Plus
GE 6500K Daylight
ATI Blue Plus
UVL 75/25
ATI Blue Plus
UVL Aquasun
ATI Blue Plus

14K look with excellent color rendering.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

Re: Re: Re: Re: fixture

Re: Re: Re: Re: fixture

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13803447#post13803447 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by renogaw
oh hehe, i'm sorry if i made you think i was upset or something. there's just way too much out there and it makes my head spin

Good mix to start is

Front
ATI Blue Plus
UVL Super Actinic
UVL Aquasun
ATI Blue Plus
ATI Aquablue

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13803697#post13803697 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by snaza
Blue plus
blue plus
Fiji
Aqua blue
blue plus
Aqua blue
blue plus

Bulbs are about 6 months old. my sandbed is 22inch though so maybe i'll measure it at 17 and see. I just thought i would get more that 450 about 1 inch underwater.

Im running fans to cool the endcaps.

When i turn on my lamps the par goes up and up to about 500 then slowly creeps down to 450. does that mean i need more fans for cooling?

I've seen par readings of 400 on the sandbed at 24inchs with powermodules. Can they really put out so much more par than a SLR's

thanks

Being able to direct the air over the ballasts and lamps ends makes a difference as well as the silver reflectors.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13804421#post13804421 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by PaintGuru
Would these be your 4 choices for a general show tank as well (vs. the frag tank)?

Depends on the color of light you like. That would be fairly nuetral. Using an Aquablue instrad of the 6500K would give you a bit more of a blue look.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13804564#post13804564 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by rcranf1
I have coralife 36" T5 Light fixture 4 x 39w x2
over my
Perfecto 125g Corner flow tank. Should I upgrade to like a 6 or 8 fixture per fixture or should I add icecap SLR individual reflectors and may be upgrade the ballasts to icecap660s. or should I upgrade to 6 or 8 fixture and add icecap SLR individual reflectors and may be upgrade the ballasts to icecap660s.

I currently have
2 osc clowns
1 yellow tang
1 salfin tang
1 sand sifting goby
1 cleaner shrimp
1 torch coral
1 plate coral
1 brain coral
5 branches of pulsing xenia

If you are content with your current mix of corals a Novs Extreme pro fixture would work. its 6 rows of 2x39 watt lamps. If you want Clams or a lot of SPS then a Aquactinics Constellation would work, 7 rows 2x39 watt lamps but way better reflectors.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13805273#post13805273 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jlaurence32
Hey Grim, what's the 'max temp' in the canopy for running 6 retro overdriven t5's? My canopy is half open in the back, I have a fan blowing down each row of endcaps and it's still 125 degrees in the center, the hottest area.

You want the air temp at the ends around 95 degrees. Or you can measure the metal lamp cap directly, about 115 degrees.

 

[PaintGuru]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13807895#post13807895 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
Depends on the color of light you like. That would be fairly nuetral. Using an Aquablue instrad of the 6500K would give you a bit more of a blue look.

I like 12-14K lighting. Sounds like a good combo would be:

Blue Plus
Aquablue
GE 6500K
Blue Plus

 

[loibe]

THANKS GRIM, IT'S MY FIRST TIME USING T5. DO YOU HAVE ANY INFOR ON THE ATI PRO LIGHT? I HEAR GOOD THINGS ABOUT IT. HOW SHOULD I SET UP THE TIMER SEQUENCE AND HOW LONG SHOULD I LEAVE THE LIGHT ON.

THANKS,
KENNETH

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13806132#post13806132 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Todd March
Thanks for this posted info, pito... After reading this, I realized that the bulbs were oriented in the WRONG way in my Powermodule. I have wondered why only one end of the fixture has vents (that you can feel the warm air flowing out of). So I pulled all 10 bulbs out, wiping the reflectors shiny in the process, and then reoriented them in the right direction.

This might help to explain the heavy shift in spectrum I have noticed in my 5 month old Pure Actinics...

I also re-read my instructions, and they didn't mention any of this, as I thought I remembered. I think it would be great if Greg changed the Powermodule instructions to reflect this.

You probably want the cold spots on the opposite end from the vents. If you pull a lamp you will see a small hole between the reflector and endcap at one end. the air is pulled into the top of the fixture and blows out those holes, runs down the lamps and out the other end. You want the cooler air coming out of those holes hitting the cold spots.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13807061#post13807061 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by phishcrazee
I have a 36" long tank, 12" wide, 16" deep. It will be a frag/grow-out tank..... I will be making a canopy and using T5 retrofit kits, as I already have one 2 bulb kit with reflectors. I know I need more bulbs, and plan on getting another 2 bulb kit. Will I be able to squeeze 4 bulbs and 4 reflectors over it or should I just use one large reflector for all four bulbs? It would seem I would probably get more light with 4 individual reflectors, but it's going to be tight.......

Which 4 bulb combo would you recommend for best growth for a mixed grow-out/frag tank?

And lastly, Grim Reefer, how do you know so much about T5's?!

Thanks!

4 lamps, 2 blue plus 1 UVL Aquasun 1 GE 6500K Daylight. Use individual reflectors.

I read a lot and have a house full of equipment.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

Re: Sfiligoi Super Actinic Blue 03 PAR comparison

Re: Sfiligoi Super Actinic Blue 03 PAR comparison

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13807751#post13807751 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ukroylisa
Grim,
How do these bulbs compare with the ATI Blue plus or the Geismann Super Actinic as far as PAR is concerned?
Thanks in advance.
Roy

Not sure what lamps you are talking about.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13807934#post13807934 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by PaintGuru
I like 12-14K lighting. Sounds like a good combo would be:

Blue Plus
Aquablue
GE 6500K
Blue Plus

Yep.

 

[bozoman]

T5s have a "coldspot" which is the end of the lamp where the manufacturer's writing is. What you need to do on a retro is have all the lamps oriented so the coldspots are at the same end and blow a fan across that end and it will hit all the coldspots. You want the temperature of the coldspot to as close to 113 fahrenheit as you can get it consistently. This keeps the rest of the bulb(s) at 95 fahrenheit which is the optimal temp for making PAR and bulb longevity.

Best way to measure the temp is with a non-contact thermometer, ie laser pyrometer. You can get one for like a $30 one from harbor freight tools. Kragen also sells a more expensive one for measuring brake and engine temps. [/B]

To clarify, should the coldspots be positioned near the outflow or at the inflow?

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13807963#post13807963 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by loibe
THANKS GRIM, IT'S MY FIRST TIME USING T5. DO YOU HAVE ANY INFOR ON THE ATI PRO LIGHT? I HEAR GOOD THINGS ABOUT IT. HOW SHOULD I SET UP THE TIMER SEQUENCE AND HOW LONG SHOULD I LEAVE THE LIGHT ON.

THANKS,
KENNETH

You mean Nova Extreme Pro? Not in the same class as the Aquactinics.

The Constellation has 3 circuits. 1,4 and 7 - 3 & 5 and 2 & 6

3 & 5 on 10~12 hours
1, 4 & 7 on 8~10 hours
2 & 6 on 4~ 6 hours

The first 2 circuits each control one fan so its important they are first on/ last off.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13808039#post13808039 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by bozoman
To clarify, should the coldspots be positioned near the outflow or at the inflow?

You want to air blowing on the label ends first so in the case of the ATI powermodule the air is forced out of the upper section on the fixture into the lamp chamber through holes between the reflector and endcaps at one end. That is where you want the cold spot.

 

[ukroylisa]

Grim, these ones.

Grim, these ones.

Posted by The Grim Reefer on 07/17/2008 06:41 PM:


quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally posted by 46bfinGA
Anyone using the SfIligoi lamps that are 4 sale on Reef Geek??? I bought 4 of them figured for the $$$ they can't be all that bad.



54W Super Actinic Blue 03 T5 HO Fluorescent
by Sfiligoi

List Price: $25.95
Our Price: $9.95
You Save: $16.00 (62%)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------



I am using them. They look great. I don't reco them because they are on clearance and I am not too sure how many they have left, I Stocked up at that price

I too stocked up. Have you any idea as to their PAR comparisons?
Roy

 

[renogaw]

Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: fixture

Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: fixture

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13807861#post13807861 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
Good mix to start is

Front
ATI Blue Plus
UVL Super Actinic
UVL Aquasun
ATI Blue Plus
ATI Aquablue

alrighty, thanks