The T5 Q&a Thread

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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14066659#post14066659 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Zimster
thanks grim and jennmac415




jennmac .....why do you prefer T-5's? because of the color and variety?

Hi Zim...

the main reason I prefef T5s is COLOR COLOR COLOR...with so many different spectrum T5 bulbs, you can customize the color of your tank to anything your eye likes. also, I feel, and again, I am NO expert, but I do think that corals color up better under T5s.. I bought a red millie from a fellow reefer today, and she runs halides. Her tank is GORGEOUS, but the coiors are not near as vibrant as mine. I am anxious to see how the red millie colors up under my t5s. I have very vibrant blues, greens oranges, reds, yellows, purples and even chartruese under these bulbs. Corals really glow.

another important reason I prefer, T5s is there is really no heat issue running them. My tank stays a pretty consistant temp all the time, which I also think , may be a reason for good colors, of course I can't back that by any scientific findings, but we all know consistancy is good for our reefs. and the last reason is there is much less electricity being used running these.

I have run all kinds of lighting, PCs when I first started, halides on my 90 gallon in Oregon and now I run the 14 bulb Constellation. I love t5s and I will NEVER go back to halides.
 
awesome jennmac!! thanks!! i was on the fence with my next upgrade and now i think i know where i am gonna go..... :D

and grim.....your advice is always amazing....thanks for all your help.....
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14066746#post14066746 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Nereaga
Sorry some of us dont have $600+ to spend on a fixture. I HATE RC because everyone is a pro on everything, including you apparently. You don't have to attack me, I CLEARLY stated I was no pro, like you....

The only one I care to listen to is Grim...... He knows all

FYI, my sps are growing faster and look better with my garbage T5 fixture. BETTER than when I was running 2-150w Mhs.

Guess you already knew that huh?

Brad

LOL

You are funny! Definitely a professional comedian.

Ask Grim what is better for clams and SPS. TEK or Current?

I know your SPS are better under T5. That's why we run them!

I never stated I was a pro. I simply said that the Current fixture is not as good as the TEK fixture. I don't really like TEK fixtures anyways.
 
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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14066971#post14066971 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jck9
how high should t5 retro be aovr th water? 5" 6"?

Yes that is good height. Just so the water splashing doesn't hit them.
 
You are welcome, Zim! Glad I could help...there are alot of AMAZING tanks that run T5s... maybe someone could please post some links for some of them. I also like to look at them. Anyway, good luck with your tank and I am sure you will be very happy with t5s. Be sure and post pics!
 
Re: Fixture?

Re: Fixture?

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14066779#post14066779 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by OneFiddy
hey Grim - like others, I applaud your advice - holy crap - you should sell your advice for a nickel a post and you can buy some of those mac daddy LED fixtures! :)

Here's my query:

I have a 150XH - 48x24x30. It's set up as a see through peninsula with the 2 48" sides and one 24" side visible.

Its a FOWLR now but may (or may not) be upgraded to reef. I'd like to buy the lighting once and not have a $500 throwaway fixture.

I know many will say 'for fish only, you only need a striplite' - well, I tried two PC fixtures and the additional light REALLY made the color of my expensive fish - Mystery Wrasse, Flame, Solarensis, Lineatus - pop. I just like the idea of lots of bright light.

I'm thinkin about the Nova 8x54. Lots of light for $380 shipped (marine and reef). I need a full blown fixture (not a retro).

Is there a different fixture you'd recommend or am I solid with the Nova? Also, what bulb configuration would you recommend for that use?

Thanks in advance!

That fixture would be great for a FOWLR. I don't know bulbs to use. The ATI Pro Color and KZ Fiji Purple are supposed to pop fish colors. I would think the ATI Blue Plus and ATI Aquablue would pop them somewhat.

I will let you know for future reference that for a 30" tank any T5 is tough. They just don't penetrate that deep of water. So if you eventually went to a reef you wold have to keep SPS and higher light corals up top. Just FYI
 
Re: Fixture?

Re: Fixture?

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14066779#post14066779 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by OneFiddy
hey Grim - like others, I applaud your advice - holy crap - you should sell your advice for a nickel a post and you can buy some of those mac daddy LED fixtures! :)

Here's my query:

I have a 150XH - 48x24x30. It's set up as a see through peninsula with the 2 48" sides and one 24" side visible.

Its a FOWLR now but may (or may not) be upgraded to reef. I'd like to buy the lighting once and not have a $500 throwaway fixture.

I know many will say 'for fish only, you only need a striplite' - well, I tried two PC fixtures and the additional light REALLY made the color of my expensive fish - Mystery Wrasse, Flame, Solarensis, Lineatus - pop. I just like the idea of lots of bright light.

I'm thinkin about the Nova 8x54. Lots of light for $380 shipped (marine and reef). I need a full blown fixture (not a retro).

Is there a different fixture you'd recommend or am I solid with the Nova? Also, what bulb configuration would you recommend for that use?

Thanks in advance!

If you really want to go reef at some point on a 30 tall you need a fixture with better reflectors.

A 4 lamp Power Module would be perfect for a FOWLR and a few Corals. An 8 lamp PM would be perfect for a Reef. I think I would go with a 6 lamp Power Module.

Front

ATI Blue Plus
GE 6500K Daylight
ATI Aquablue
ATI Aquablue
GE 6500K Daylight
ATI Blue Plus

That should blend well, The Aquablue is bright white with a slight blue tint and the GE's are sort of ivory so your overall look should be somewhat of a silvery blue. Should grab the colors of your fish very nice.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14067242#post14067242 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by rtparty
LOL

You are funny! Definitely a professional comedian.

Ask Grim what is better for clams and SPS. TEK or Current?

I know your SPS are better under T5. That's why we run them!

I never stated I was a pro. I simply said that the Current fixture is not as good as the TEK fixture. I don't really like TEK fixtures anyways.

Usually its better not to keep picking the scab.

I think your post was taken the wrong way. It happens.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14067411#post14067411 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
Usually its better not to keep picking the scab.

I think your post was taken the wrong way. It happens.

It is true. I didn't attack anyone.

I simply wanted to inform people before they choose.

Maybe I am wrong on my recommendations?
 
Grim,

I've got the following setup on my 210:

12x36" T5, six on the left, 6 on the right side of the tank. I'm using the new aquactinics reflectors, and over driving on IceCap 660s. I have (4) 80mm fans on each end of the canopy. Both sent of fans are currently pushing air into the hood, and the back of the hood is open to allow air out.

The ambient temp of the air, measured a 1/2 inch below the bulbs is 85 degrees on the outer ends, and about 102 in the middle of the tank (the "inner" ends of the bulbs).

I'm not super thrilled with the color or PAR performance I'm getting. The bulbs are about 4 inches above the water, and I get about 900 PAR 1/2" under the water, which quickly tapers to 500 about 8 inches down, and I'm lucky to get 150 at the bottom of my tank (27" from the top to the sand bed (29" tank). 500 for the top corals is okay, but that leaves the whole middle of the tank in 250-350 range, which wasn't quite was I was hoping.

I'm currently running the following bulb combo:

F
ATI Blue Plus
ATI Special
UVL Actinic
ATI Special
ATI Blue Plus
ATI Actinic
R

The color is a bit "washed out" and whiter than I had hoped. When I compare the look to my 250w Reeflux 12k, the colors under the MH pop, and the colors under the T5 seem pastel and washed out, but bright. Is there any hope for me and T5s? I had my heart set on going this route (to keep the heat down in my tank), but I'm not loving the results.

I'm planning on adding another Icecap 660 and 4 more bulbs, so I'll have 8 on each side, as soon as I take the canopy off for some more work. I was also going to raise the T5's a few (4 more) inches to allow better access to the tank (7-8 inches total) and less splashing on the reflectors, which are already quite stained by the salt water.

Your thoughts? Thanks in advance!
 
Hey Guys... First time posting here. I've had my 36G for about six months now with a crappy 130w Coralife PC. I have a friend who is willing to sell me this light for $150, it was used for about six months. Would you say this is a really good light, worth the money? My tank is about 18'' deep, should I worry about if it's going to bleach out my existing corals? It does have independant switches. The bulbs (three actinics & three 10k's) are also about six months old so I think that should help as far as not bleaching. ANY/ALL replies are greatly appriciated. Thank You! :D
 
Re: Re: Fixture?

Re: Re: Fixture?

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14067397#post14067397 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
If you really want to go reef at some point on a 30 tall you need a fixture with better reflectors.

A 4 lamp Power Module would be perfect for a FOWLR and a few Corals. An 8 lamp PM would be perfect for a Reef. I think I would go with a 6 lamp Power Module.

Front

ATI Blue Plus
GE 6500K Daylight
ATI Aquablue
ATI Aquablue
GE 6500K Daylight
ATI Blue Plus

That should blend well, The Aquablue is bright white with a slight blue tint and the GE's are sort of ivory so your overall look should be somewhat of a silvery blue. Should grab the colors of your fish very nice.

Ok, so the Nova 8x54 is $380 shipped with bulbs that will last me for a stretch. The Power 4x54 is $650 after you add bulbs. The 6x54 is $820 with bulbs - thats a HUGE price difference.

Do you honestly feel that the extra expense is worth it for a tank that I can pretty much say will only be FOWLR?

I understand reflectors and bulbs, etc, but for some reason my brain just thinks that an 8 bulb fixture (for almost $500 less) would do the trick.

That being said, what bulbs would you recommend for the 8 bulb NOVA (versus the 6 bulb config you laid out above)?

Thanks!!!
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14035894#post14035894 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jennmac415
d2mini... would love to see pics after you get them installed...


Here's my tank after some bulb changes.
Right now I'm running the following... still not sure I'm 100% happy.

Front
ATI Blue+
ATI Pro Color
ATI Blue+
Current 10k
UVL Actinic White
ATI Blue+


447528931_BD3Hh-O.jpg


447821655_5wLJQ-O.jpg
 
I've been reading a ton of info on RC and lighting seems to be one of the hardest to rap my head around! I am working on setting up my first saltwater tank it is a 50gal tank measuring 36 by 18W by 20D and i am planning on it being a mixed reef

My plan so far for lighting consist of a Icecap 660 electronic ballast and Icecap end caps and probably4 34" VHO bulbs does this sound like a solid setup ?

Any suggestions would be appreciated because im not exactly sure witch wrought to go thanks guys
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14068163#post14068163 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by petes97
Grim,

I've got the following setup on my 210:

12x36" T5, six on the left, 6 on the right side of the tank. I'm using the new aquactinics reflectors, and over driving on IceCap 660s. I have (4) 80mm fans on each end of the canopy. Both sent of fans are currently pushing air into the hood, and the back of the hood is open to allow air out.

The ambient temp of the air, measured a 1/2 inch below the bulbs is 85 degrees on the outer ends, and about 102 in the middle of the tank (the "inner" ends of the bulbs).

I'm not super thrilled with the color or PAR performance I'm getting. The bulbs are about 4 inches above the water, and I get about 900 PAR 1/2" under the water, which quickly tapers to 500 about 8 inches down, and I'm lucky to get 150 at the bottom of my tank (27" from the top to the sand bed (29" tank). 500 for the top corals is okay, but that leaves the whole middle of the tank in 250-350 range, which wasn't quite was I was hoping.

I'm currently running the following bulb combo:

F
ATI Blue Plus
ATI Special
UVL Actinic
ATI Special
ATI Blue Plus
ATI Actinic
R

The color is a bit "washed out" and whiter than I had hoped. When I compare the look to my 250w Reeflux 12k, the colors under the MH pop, and the colors under the T5 seem pastel and washed out, but bright. Is there any hope for me and T5s? I had my heart set on going this route (to keep the heat down in my tank), but I'm not loving the results.

I'm planning on adding another Icecap 660 and 4 more bulbs, so I'll have 8 on each side, as soon as I take the canopy off for some more work. I was also going to raise the T5's a few (4 more) inches to allow better access to the tank (7-8 inches total) and less splashing on the reflectors, which are already quite stained by the salt water.

Your thoughts? Thanks in advance!

There is definitely hope! :D

This is my opinion and I hope Grim will chime in. I would try removing 2 of the fans. You may be over cooling the bulbs and that really hurts performance.

Next thing, the extra bulbs will HELP a ton! 8 bulbs is really needed over that tank. You could even add the new bulbs and not overdrive them.

I think your PAR is hurt because of the actinics. They don't put out good PAR. If you only have 6 bulbs I would not run any actinic.


Try this for the 6:

ATI Blue Plus
ATI Aquablue
GE 6500K
ATI Blue Plus
UVL Aquasun or KZ Fiji Purple
ATI Aquablue

That would give you great PAR and a good blue look.

If you go to the 8 bulbs on each side then you could add another Blue Plus and actinic if you wanted.
 
Re: burnt bulb that I posted about a few pages back, I contacted Greg at reefgeek and they shipped a new bulb out to me yesterday under warranty. I would say their service is top notch if anyone is undecided where to order you can't go wrong with reef geek! Hopefully this UVL super actinic lasts more than a week haha
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14067764#post14067764 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by rtparty
It is true. I didn't attack anyone.

I simply wanted to inform people before they choose.

Maybe I am wrong on my recommendations?

Your reco was fine but he was looking for the best solution for his situation. Had he been asking for a mix for a fixture he was planning to buy I would have answered much like you did. Don't worry about it.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14068163#post14068163 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by petes97
Grim,

I've got the following setup on my 210:

12x36" T5, six on the left, 6 on the right side of the tank. I'm using the new aquactinics reflectors, and over driving on IceCap 660s. I have (4) 80mm fans on each end of the canopy. Both sent of fans are currently pushing air into the hood, and the back of the hood is open to allow air out.

The ambient temp of the air, measured a 1/2 inch below the bulbs is 85 degrees on the outer ends, and about 102 in the middle of the tank (the "inner" ends of the bulbs).

I'm not super thrilled with the color or PAR performance I'm getting. The bulbs are about 4 inches above the water, and I get about 900 PAR 1/2" under the water, which quickly tapers to 500 about 8 inches down, and I'm lucky to get 150 at the bottom of my tank (27" from the top to the sand bed (29" tank). 500 for the top corals is okay, but that leaves the whole middle of the tank in 250-350 range, which wasn't quite was I was hoping.

I'm currently running the following bulb combo:

F
ATI Blue Plus
ATI Special
UVL Actinic
ATI Special
ATI Blue Plus
ATI Actinic
R

The color is a bit "washed out" and whiter than I had hoped. When I compare the look to my 250w Reeflux 12k, the colors under the MH pop, and the colors under the T5 seem pastel and washed out, but bright. Is there any hope for me and T5s? I had my heart set on going this route (to keep the heat down in my tank), but I'm not loving the results.

I'm planning on adding another Icecap 660 and 4 more bulbs, so I'll have 8 on each side, as soon as I take the canopy off for some more work. I was also going to raise the T5's a few (4 more) inches to allow better access to the tank (7-8 inches total) and less splashing on the reflectors, which are already quite stained by the salt water.

Your thoughts? Thanks in advance!

150 PAR 27" down aint bad at all.

With 8 rows of lamps try this

Front
ATI Blue Plus
Special
UVL 75/25
Blue Plus
UVL Aquasun
Blue Plus
UVL 75/25
Blue Plus

Using the 75/25 and aquasun will add some red to the spectrum which can really helps pop some colors but still has a lot of actinic so with all lights on you still get the pop. The 75/25 also has more PAR so while 150 aint bad you will probably get a little bump. The two extra lamps wouldn't add a whole lot to the peak PAR but they will expand the area which you get that amount.

If you have pink or purple corals in the tank you should notice a really big difference. I was watching this morning as the lights were coming on. With 2 Blue Plus the birds nest looks grey. When two more Blue Plus and the 75/25 came on the pink color came out great. It also make the coralline on the rocks pop as well.
 
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