The T5 Q&a Thread

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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14246484#post14246484 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
In your case using a brigh 4 lamp unit like a powermodule would work. Keep the high light critters like clams and suck under the lamps and the lower light out front so the light is more indirect.

Thanks Grim! Very helpful. Put like that it sounds like an excellent solution. :rollface:

Sorry for yet another question, but what would be your ATI bulb recommendations for a 4 bulb set up?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14246647#post14246647 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by burntom
Thanks Grim! Very helpful. Put like that it sounds like an excellent solution. :rollface:

Sorry for yet another question, but what would be your ATI bulb recommendations for a 4 bulb set up?

ATI Blue Plus
ATI Pro Color
ATI Aquablue
ATI Blue Plus
 
Hi I am changing out my lights on my fowler. I have a 2 bulb fixture. I know one of my bulbs will be a UVL Super Acticnic but I am trying to deside the other. I am thinking something in the 12 or 14 k color range. I want a broad spectrum of colors. I am thinking ether the UVL actinic white or 75/25. I have read these bulbs have a redish pink output. I do not mind a little red in the lighting as long as it dose not make everything in the tank look pink. any suggestions for my second bulb would be great. also I am trying to pick a light that will promote coroline growth and descourage hair algea growth. I am not sure what lighting choices are best for this. I have read that actinic is good for coraline growth.
 
Hey guys, I am curently having a shallow 90 gallon built, 48 x 24 x 18. I have a Tek 6 bulb fixture, and I have the following bulb combo:

4x Geismen Blue+
2x Aquablue

I was wondering if this would be enough light to keep SPS once I get everything moved over.

Thanks,

DD
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14246526#post14246526 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by widmer
Hi folks- Different variety of question:

For those of us who are wiring our own ballasts up, is 600v wire necessary, or can I go with 300v? The reason I ask is the only place I can even find 18 AWG wire (any heavier gauge won't connect into my Accustart ballast), only has it in 300v.

So is 300v fine?

Or does anyone know a place I might find the 18 AWG wire specified for my ballast?

Thanks a bunch.

I really don't know, I just use 18 gauge without paying attention. Maybe someone else knows.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14249640#post14249640 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jasonkola
Hi I am changing out my lights on my fowler. I have a 2 bulb fixture. I know one of my bulbs will be a UVL Super Acticnic but I am trying to deside the other. I am thinking something in the 12 or 14 k color range. I want a broad spectrum of colors. I am thinking ether the UVL actinic white or 75/25. I have read these bulbs have a redish pink output. I do not mind a little red in the lighting as long as it dose not make everything in the tank look pink. any suggestions for my second bulb would be great. also I am trying to pick a light that will promote coroline growth and descourage hair algea growth. I am not sure what lighting choices are best for this. I have read that actinic is good for coraline growth.

I'd do a 75/25 and a ATI Aquablue. That'll give you red, actinic and yellow along with blue and green. I wouldn't waste a real actinic on a tank with no coral but a little actinic in the output can look cool. .
 
From my experience, almost all of the wires will have the voltage rating printed intermittently along the length of the wire. Any chance yours (or anyone else out there)'s lists it?

I'd be happy to hear if 300v is fine, because that is in fact available to me.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14249878#post14249878 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Dorion
Hey guys, I am curently having a shallow 90 gallon built, 48 x 24 x 18. I have a Tek 6 bulb fixture, and I have the following bulb combo:

4x Geismen Blue+
2x Aquablue

I was wondering if this would be enough light to keep SPS once I get everything moved over.

Thanks,

DD

Plenty
 
Grim -

1. You recommended against the Acrylic Shield on the TEK because it "kills the output". So is salt spray not harmful to T5 bulbs - causing them to break such as a MH bulb?

2. Do the ATI fixtures have support legs? I've only seen them offered with hanging systems. I don't think the wife will allow any more drilling holes in the cieling.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14250258#post14250258 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by FranktheTankTx
Grim -

1. You recommended against the Acrylic Shield on the TEK because it "kills the output". So is salt spray not harmful to T5 bulbs - causing them to break such as a MH bulb?

2. Do the ATI fixtures have support legs? I've only seen them offered with hanging systems. I don't think the wife will allow any more drilling holes in the cieling.

Salt spray will hurt output if it coats the bulbs, just keep the bulbs 4" off the water and keep them clean if they get dirty.

ATI fixtures do not have legs as of right now but you can put them directly on the tank. Just rig something up to make sure it doesn't fall into the tank.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14250845#post14250845 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by sanababit
Grimm, how long do T5 bulbs last? or should i say they start to lose their PAR, thanks

Sana


About a year depending on cooling and if they are overdriven or not.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14250258#post14250258 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by FranktheTankTx
Grim -

1. You recommended against the Acrylic Shield on the TEK because it "kills the output". So is salt spray not harmful to T5 bulbs - causing them to break such as a MH bulb?

2. Do the ATI fixtures have support legs? I've only seen them offered with hanging systems. I don't think the wife will allow any more drilling holes in the cieling.

Salt spray wont hurt lamps but it plays hell with reflectors if you don't clean them every few days or so. Best thing is to keep the fixture at least 4" above the water.

The ATI doesn't have legs but with the shield they can sit right on the tank. You can make brackets to sit them on pretty easy.
 
Need advice:

75 gallon with mush, lps, and a frogspawn. Want the frogspawn on the near bottom. Rocks with mush and polyps all about.

tek 6 bulb or aquactinics tx5 or ati sunpower 4 bulb?

can not hang unit.

Thanks
 
Need Advice.

Upgrading from 4x54W T-5 and 2x175W 20MH to an
48" 8 bulb ATI Powermodule.
When I switch over should I use my existing 4 T5 bulbs and 4 older ones. And gradually swap them out for new bulbs. Or existing 4 bulbs and 4 new ones, or all 8 new bulbs an use screen over the top of the tank.
Also what about photo period? I was running the 4 T'5 12 hours and the MH's 5 hours.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14246921#post14246921 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by rtparty
ATI Blue Plus
ATI Pro Color
ATI Aquablue
ATI Blue Plus

One thing I forgot to ask. Is the Pro Color towards the front or back, or doesn't it matter? :)
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14253055#post14253055 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by burntom
One thing I forgot to ask. Is the Pro Color towards the front or back, or doesn't it matter? :)


The order I listed is the order for the bulbs to go in. You want the Pro Color towards the front so it strikes the viewing sides of the corals.

If you want to switch anything you could switch the back 2 bulbs. So like this:

ATI BP
ATI PC
ATI BP
ATI AB

That way if switch 1 and 4 are dusk dawn you get the Aquablue and Blue Plus together for it. Just an idea
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14252314#post14252314 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by malawinovice
Need advice:

75 gallon with mush, lps, and a frogspawn. Want the frogspawn on the near bottom. Rocks with mush and polyps all about.

tek 6 bulb or aquactinics tx5 or ati sunpower 4 bulb?

can not hang unit.

Thanks

Aquactinics TX5 or 4 lamp Tek.
 
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