The T5 Q&a Thread

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14350980#post14350980 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by PurdueMAN_08
I'm building a 6'x4'x2' tank. I will have some softies, clams and plan to do LPS and SPS. I will probably to 60-75% SPS. I am not sure if I want to go MH (3x250 Lumenbrights) or T5HO. Would 12x54watt T5HO be good enough? Dr smiths has the Current USA NOVA EXTREME SLR for sale for like $187 for 4x54 system. Would 3 of those be sufficient?

Aquactinics, Ice Cap or Reefgeek reflectors would work. Unless the Nova retrofit reflectors are a whole lot better than what they put in the Nova Pro fixtures they aren't going to cut it.

Reefgeek, Reefspecialtys and I think DIY reef all have 60" retrofit kits. You would also want to go with 16 rows of lamps. Using 80 watt lamps on ice cap ballasts 15 would be close enough (You can do 3 lamps per ballast) the 54 watt overdriven are a little brighter but they are also 12 inches shorter so you lose a lot of tank area.

For halides a single row of halides isnt going to light the tank front to back very well. They do 2 feet really well and OK out to about 3 feet.

Depending how you want to place your critters you could bunch the T5 lamps do make 12 work.

Front
open brains, softies etc

Clams on sandbed

Rock work with SPS

Clams on sand

LPS


Assuming the tank is viewable from both sides. You could bunch the 12 lamps in the center which will give you 30 to 36" of high intensity depending on which reflectors you use. Open brains dont like being right under a full T5 array so they would be happy out front by the glass. You would also have the last 7 or 8 inches at each side of the tank for lower light critters.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14351043#post14351043 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ReefEnabler
Grim, is it bad to blow air onto the bulbs directly, or just not as effective as cooling the endcaps?

My canopy came with two premade fanholes in the back so thats where I put the fans (more about moving fresh air IN than about direct cooling). but I can always drill more holes

You really just need to cause air movement rather than blow air right on the tubs. I reco blowing the air right on the endcaps because that will cause air movement aound the lamp ends where you need to cooling and keeping the endcaps cooler will certainly help control the lamp temp.

 

[MBVette]

Re: Re: Re: Re: Planning a 225g reef

Re: Re: Re: Re: Planning a 225g reef

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14350963#post14350963 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
The Ice Cap retros are good but Ice Cap doesn'/t make 60" reflectors so the Ice Cap 80 watt kits comes with the Tek II reflectors which are a tad over 3" wide.

If you can connect speaker wires to a stereo and hang a picture you should be able to do a retro kit.

Thanks so much for the help. I have 2 more quick questions

What bulbs should I run with this setup?
How many fans should I be running with these lights, and what is the best way to mount them with the lights?

Again, I really appreciate the help

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14351061#post14351061 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by skierguy
This thread is unbelievable. Reading through it I have seen many different recommendations for bulbs and configurations on tanks similar to mine. So I guess I will ask. I have an icecap retro on my 90 gallon tank (48”x18”x 24” tall) my current configuration is:
Front
1 ATI Blue +
1 Aquasun
1 True Actinic
1 ATI Blue +

In the middle an in the back I also have a 48” T8 true actinic NO bulbs I use for dawn dusk.
Due to a power outage last summer I am rebuilding my stock list. I plan on keeping some LPS, Monti’s and a few SPS toward the upper section of the tank.

If you have a question in there I assume it's if your configurations is OK and it will be just fine. I would move the NO actinic to the front so when its on the light will tend to hit the side of the corals you can see but other than that you be good.

 

[tazmanian_cowboy]

I have been setting up a 200g marineland deep series tank for a while. I have 2 of Icecap's 48" t5 prewired 4 bulb retros with 660 ballasts and many new bulbs of varying kind for them. I have been running minimally with just one fixture for about 2 months with 2 ATI blue plus and 2 ATI procolor. I have mostly Digi's and Caps along with 2 clams and some softies. I actually love the current color that the alternating bulbs are giving off. I've seen my corals and even my clam color back up nicely from prior poor lighting conditions.

My question is what configuration should I ultimately shoot for? Bringing the other fixture online tomorrow and I'm not sure how I want to load it. I have enough to just duplicate what is in there currently or I can add any of the following that I bought and thought twice about....UV aquasun, actinic white ...Ati procolor, actinic,aquablue special, blue plus.

Will all procolor and blue plus inhibit growth or cause any problems down the road? Right now the tank is loaded with frags and I need them to grow up into nice size colonies so it doesn't look so bare!

I would also like to know how long I should run these timeperiods.

Any thoughts or experience welcome. I have ben reading through this thread and there are too many pages and configurations , my head is hurting!

 

[The Grim Reefer]

Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Planning a 225g reef

Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Planning a 225g reef

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14351160#post14351160 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by MBVette
Thanks so much for the help. I have 2 more quick questions

What bulbs should I run with this setup?
How many fans should I be running with these lights, and what is the best way to mount them with the lights?

Again, I really appreciate the help

One fan at each end blowing in from the back right down the rows of endcaps

Front

ATI Blue Plus
GE 6500K Daylight
Blue Plus
KZ Fiji Purple
ATI Blue Plus
GE 6500K Daylight
ATI Blue Plus
ATI Aquablus or Fiji Purple

Should be 14Kish with a lot of PAR.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14351236#post14351236 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by tazmanian_cowboy
I have been setting up a 200g marineland deep series tank for a while. I have 2 of Icecap's 48" t5 prewired 4 bulb retros with 660 ballasts and many new bulbs of varying kind for them. I have been running minimally with just one fixture for about 2 months with 2 ATI blue plus and 2 ATI procolor. I have mostly Digi's and Caps along with 2 clams and some softies. I actually love the current color that the alternating bulbs are giving off. I've seen my corals and even my clam color back up nicely from prior poor lighting conditions.

My question is what configuration should I ultimately shoot for? Bringing the other fixture online tomorrow and I'm not sure how I want to load it. I have enough to just duplicate what is in there currently or I can add any of the following that I bought and thought twice about....UV aquasun, actinic white ...Ati procolor, actinic,aquablue special, blue plus.

Will all procolor and blue plus inhibit growth or cause any problems down the road? Right now the tank is loaded with frags and I need them to grow up into nice size colonies so it doesn't look so bare!

I would also like to know how long I should run these timeperiods.

Any thoughts or experience welcome. I have ben reading through this thread and there are too many pages and configurations , my head is hurting!

For maximum growth probably all aquablues. The Blue Plus is a very good PAR lamp and probably second to the blue Plus in output.

If you weant it to look good and grow try 4 Blue Pluses, 2 Aquablues and 2 UVL actinic Whites. The Actinic whites should give you enough red to get by but maybe not quite the red pop the pro color does. But the AW has a lot of PAR the Pro Color doesn't

 

[tazmanian_cowboy]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14351309#post14351309 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
For maximum growth probably all aquablues. The Blue Plus is a very good PAR lamp and probably second to the blue Plus in output.

Thanks for the quick reply, but what bulb did you mean by the second sentence?

would like to throw at least one procolor in there or should I get another fixture for 12 bulbs total:eek1:

please let me know how I should place front to back . how long should I run a configuration like that?and also keep in mind I can run one fixture longer than the other if I should.

Taz
Ps, I'm not questioning your thoughts, I just love the POP!

 

[skierguy]

Sorry, I was wondering if there is a better configuration or bulb selection I should consider as I am getting ready to replace the bulbs.

 

[NVTE]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14350982#post14350982 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
Have good reflectors and ballasts? With good equipment and using fans to cool the lamp ends a bit you could keep monti's on the sandbed, I am doing it with old lamps on a Constellation fixture on a 22" tall tank with a 2" sandbed.

Hi Grim.
I am using new Tek 8 bulbs rigtht now. Have 2 fan to cool the lamps end. little of sand in my tank (>1") .

 

[johnanddawn]

all right the tank is set up and running and rockscape done
36x36x24 with 6" in front and back having no rock for that open look (actually all the way around) and to keep the light out of the overflow
front 1/2 will be shrooms/zoas/LPS under 16" water - the bottom
back 1/2 will be SPS 6" - 12" under water
2 660's - icecap reflectors - 1/3/5/7 and 2/4/6/8 wired together
front:
G actinic
blue+
aquablue
blue+
aquasun
blue+
aquablue
blue+

any suggestions or changes recomended? i have an extra of each type bulb and an actinic white i could change up with
thanks in advance

 

[skunkiechris]

I'm putting a TX5 on a 72 bow. I've read (as much as possible) through this thread, and seen lots of Grim's suggestions for bulb combos for this unit. What I'm wondering...since it's a bow, the bulbs will actually be more over the rear of the tank than the front, at least in the bowed out portion. Does that affect the arrangement of bulbs -- as in should the higher PAR bulbs go in front? This is a new tank, so no particular inhabitants yet, but I'm looking at probably a general mix. (If I find myself going towards something specific I can always change bulbs later.) I don't like an overly blue aquarium, but I do want colors to pop. Based on earlier suggestions, I was planning on either:

Front
ATI Blue Plus
UVL 75/25
GE 6500K Daylight
ATI Blue Plus
ATI Aquablue

or

Front
ATI Blue Plus
UVL Super Actinic
UVL Aquasun or 75/25
ATI Blue Plus
ATI Aquablue

Any thoughts? (Grim? ) Thanks!!

 

[RicGio]

Grim... I'm going with the T5 lineup you recommended for my 90 gal. (1) 75/25 (2) blue plus and (1) aquablue .

I'm going with the 150 watt HQI as well. What bulb do you recommend? the 15k or 20K?

Also...do you know off the top of your head what Advance or universal electronic ballast will fire that lamp?

 

[DFason]

Hey Grim,
I am building a new tank. 32x18x16(H). I am looking at doing the icecap SLR 4x24w w/ very high output retro kit from reefgeek. I'm looking for a good bulb combo and you seem to be the guy in the know! I will be doing mostly SPS but on the far points of the tank I will have a few LPS ( war coral, lords/micros, chalices).

Do you think I could get away with doing just the high output being that my tank is only 16" high? Would I need to go with the 6 bulb combo?

Any help is more than welcomed! Thanks

-Dave

 

[Deadmullet]

So i have a 5 bulb,39 watt auquactinics unit that needs some new bulbs. I just realized the last time i changed them was 5/31/07...oops

Can anybody tell me what this bulb is all about?
39W Fiji Purple T5 HO Fluorescent
Manufacturer: Korallen Zucht

These are the last set of bulbs i bought


1 ATI1003 39W 12000K Aquablue Special T5 HO Fluorescent
2 ATI1011 39W Blue Plus T5 HO Fluorescent
1 UVL0003 39W 10000K AquaSun T5 HO Fluorescent
1 UVL0019 39W Super Actinic T5 HO Fluorescent

I am happy with this set up but you always have to make sure there are no improvements out there that i am not aware of

 

[geomanolo]

Hi all
I am expecting my new light which is 8x54 with dimmable ballasts (with GHL profilux) for my Elos 120 and i have 2 questions for the xperts.
If i go with all ATI bulbs what would be a good compo for sps dominated tank and most important what would be a good fotoperiod if you consider that i have 4 switches ( pairs x2)

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14351400#post14351400 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by tazmanian_cowboy
Thanks for the quick reply, but what bulb did you mean by the second sentence?

would like to throw at least one procolor in there or should I get another fixture for 12 bulbs total:eek1:

please let me know how I should place front to back . how long should I run a configuration like that?and also keep in mind I can run one fixture longer than the other if I should.

Taz
Ps, I'm not questioning your thoughts, I just love the POP!

The Blue Plus is second to the Aquablue in output

The Pro Color has pretty low PAR. If you are willing to give up a little growth for the red pop use 2 pro colors, 2 aquablues and 4 blue pluses.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14352032#post14352032 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by skierguy
Sorry, I was wondering if there is a better configuration or bulb selection I should consider as I am getting ready to replace the bulbs.

You could try

Blue Plus
UVL 75/25
GE 6500K Daylight
Blue Plus

More PAR and perhaps slightly better greens from the GE lamp.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14352805#post14352805 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by NVTE
Hi Grim.
I am using new Tek 8 bulbs rigtht now. Have 2 fan to cool the lamps end. little of sand in my tank (>1") .

If you don't use a splash shield having fans blowing across the center part of the fixture on the back edge does really good a increasing the output. you get just enough airflow past the lamps to cool them without over cooling them (blowing fans right on the tubes lowers the output) and cools the ballasts too which is a happy thing.

You should be fine for SPS anywhere up off the sandbed.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14353001#post14353001 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by johnanddawn
all right the tank is set up and running and rockscape done
36x36x24 with 6" in front and back having no rock for that open look (actually all the way around) and to keep the light out of the overflow
front 1/2 will be shrooms/zoas/LPS under 16" water - the bottom
back 1/2 will be SPS 6" - 12" under water
2 660's - icecap reflectors - 1/3/5/7 and 2/4/6/8 wired together
front:
G actinic
blue+
aquablue
blue+
aquasun
blue+
aquablue
blue+

any suggestions or changes recomended? i have an extra of each type bulb and an actinic white i could change up with
thanks in advance

I'd say just experiment, maybe try the actinic white in place of the Aquasun and then maybe in place of aquablue.