The T5 Q&a Thread

[rtparty]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14369900#post14369900 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by LJA
I've gone back through this thread to find a similar setup to mine for a good combo and I've found four options that have been recommended.


I would just like to start over now


Here what I have:


29 Gallon tank 30"x12"x18"

Keeping LPS, would like to start keeping SPS.

I would like to have a nice crisp blue tint but not overwhelming blue.

I have the Sundial 4x24watt T5 fixture and here are the options I saw:


#1
Blue Plus
Aqua Sun
Aqua Blue
Blue Plus

#2
Blue Plus
UVl 75/25
GE 6500K
Blue Plus

#3
Blue Plus
Super Actinic
Aqua Blue
Sun Pro

#4
Blue Plus
Super Actinic
Aqua Sun
Blue Plus


So many choices!

What would be the best choice for a nice crisp blue tint something between 12k and 14k that would allow for good growth?


Right now I'm running two SA's and two AquaSun's and I can't stand the red/purple tint.


Thanks again everyone!

Do #2

 

[rtparty]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14370377#post14370377 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Monkeyfish
How does cooling the fixture via fan result in an increase in PAR?

It cools the bulbs and ballasts and thus they can perform better. Grim has some nice scientific explanation.

 

[rtparty]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14370090#post14370090 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Xiaan42
I am heading around the 1 year mark for my lights and I am planning on replacing them soon.

I have a 38G Tank 36x12x20 and the Nova Extreme Pro fixture and I primary keep SPS and LPS and like a slightly bluer light.

My current setup is:
Front
Giesemann Pure Actinic
Giesemann Aquablue
Giesemann Pure Actinic
UVL 75/25
UVL Super Actinic
Giesemann Aquablue

I am thinking of going for this combination:

UVL Super Actinic
Giesemann Aquablue
Giesemann Actinic Plus or ATI Blue Plus
UVL 75/25
UVL Super Actinic
Giesemann Aquablue

Any recommendations on this setup?

ATI Blue Plus
UVL 75/25
ATI Blue Plus
UVL Aquasun
ATI Blue Plus
ATI Aquablue

 

[rtparty]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14369223#post14369223 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by woisme
Thanks for the input guys. Another question...where are you getting a good deal on bulbs? I planned on going to reefgeek.com but wanted to check to see if there were better places.

reefgeek reefgeek reefgeek! LOL

Reefgeek is the best IMO

 

[rtparty]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14368903#post14368903 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Chipie
Nobody want to help me with this

Actinic Plus
UVL 75/25
Actinic Plus
Gmann Midday
Actinic Plus
Aquablue

 

[Todd March]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14369208#post14369208 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by MarcB
Can you explain more about setting all the labels at the same end?

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14369224#post14369224 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by bllfish
If all of the labels are at the same end, is that the end you should make sure is cooled by fans?

T5's are different from other fluorescent bulbs, as they have a very specific optimum operating temperature (around 100F), and very specifically it is directed at the "cold spot" of the bulb, where the manufacturer's label is printed (not all T5's are constructed like this, but most are, and most specifically, ATI's are, the most widely used brand).

So, by cooling the cold spot of the bulbs, you will be operating them at the temperature they are designed to work atâ€"better PAR, better spectrum. That's the primary reason why the TEK fixtures are so unimpressive nowadays, and why the Powermodules are impressiveâ€"it's in the active cooling aspect (or lack of) that really helps to drive the bulbs to their full potential. So if you are using a TEK fixture, or a retrofit kit, it really behooves you to set up cooling fans that primarily blow across the cold spot (label) and then to a lesser degree down the length of the bulb. If the ballasts can be cooled in the process too (ala Powermodule), so much the better...

 

[Todd March]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14370776#post14370776 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by rtparty
reefgeek reefgeek reefgeek! LOL

Reefgeek is the best IMO

+1...!

Everything from Greg's knowledge of the bulbs, to the prices, to the fact that they get shipped intact and unbroken most of the time, makes reefgeek the ideal choice...

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14365065#post14365065 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by LJA
Hey Grim,

I recently upgraded my 4x24watt Sundial fixture to the following bulb combo:


Front

Super Actinic (UVL)
AquaSun (UVL)
Super Actinic (UVL)
AquaSun (UVL)

Back


The tank has a kind of reddish tint to it when all the lights are on and very purple with just the actinic.

Is this red tint normal for the bulb combo I have? If so, is it caused by the Super Actinics or the AquaSun's?

Thanks a lot for your help.


I should add that I was aiming for maximum growth while still keeping a nice crisp blue tint will all lights on.

Going for growth you goofed. At this point I would say replace both super actinics with ATI Blue Plus lamps. That will help with the PAR and counter act the red look a bit

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14365211#post14365211 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by A.T.T.R
im using UVL;s and ATI;s

so far it looks like only the UVL;s are of problom

You having more than the SUper Actinics fail?

 

[LJA]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14370998#post14370998 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
Going for growth you goofed. At this point I would say replace both super actinics with ATI Blue Plus lamps. That will help with the PAR and counter act the red look a bit

Thanks Grim,

Since I'm going to have to replace two anyway, would it be even better if I replace all four of my bulbs and replace them with these:


GE 6500K
Blue Plus
UVL 75/25
Blue Plus


Or just stay with 2 AquaSun's and 2 Aqua Blues?
Which of these two do you think would be more blue, and which would be better for growth of LPS and SPS?

I really appreciate your time.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14366537#post14366537 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Joander123
hey guys, just stumbled over this...

i have a 75 gallon tank, that is a mixed reef, but with a stronger focus on SPS then anything else.

I want to switch over to t5's... and want to do it the right way (not some cheapo fixture).

My options as of now look like (cash allowing)

-4 bulb ATI powermodule (probably not enough light, right?)
-6, or 8 bulb Tek (i know they aren't as good, but the extra bulbs is a bonus)
-5 bulb aquactinic fixture
-6 bulb ATI sunpower fixture

6 lamp Sunpower. If you are getting serious about SPS you want more than enough light.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14368544#post14368544 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by nismo_32
ok i gat directed here. they said you were the guru. so here it goes.
i just acquired a zero edge tank. the dimensions are 66lx18wx14t. i want to use this tank for my chalice/acans collection and would like to go with t5s. now can you please suggest the best light fixtures/bulbs configuration at what heights. thanks for your time...

grab a 4 x 80 watt ATI Sunpower fixture.

Hang it about 6" above the tank

Front
ATI Blue Plus
Fiji Purple
ATI Aquablue
ATI Blue Plus

Ur you could go 6 lamps

Front
ATI Blue Plus
ATI Pro Color
ATI Blue Plus
GE 6500K Daylight
ATI Blue Plus
ATI Aquablue

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14370746#post14370746 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by rtparty
It cools the bulbs and ballasts and thus they can perform better. Grim has some nice scientific explanation.

Its magic


Heat tends to lower the performance of electrical componants so cooling the ballasts helps with the output.

With the lamps they are designed to run at a certain temp. If the temp goes above that ht internal lamp pressure increases which also increases the resistance so the ballast cant bush as much voltage through.

 

[MarcB]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14370724#post14370724 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
Didn't you order 4 Aquablues? If you havent ordered lamps doing what you listed would be good.

I ordered 12 lamps from Reefgeek, and it must have seemed wierd, because Greg called me to see if I was insane. (I was).

He spent a lot of time advising me, and trying to find out what I wanted from the lights. To be honest, it's all still very confusing, but here are the bulbs that I wound up getting, I just want to make sure that I have the placement correct:

Stock Blue (old) - Blue bank
UVL Aqua Blue - Daylight
UVL Super Actinic - Blue bank
UVL AquaSun - Daylight
ATI Blue Plus - Blue bank
UVL Aqua Blue - Daylight
Stock blue (old) - Blue bank
ATI Blue Plus - Daylight

The fixture alternates the 'blue' bulbs with the 'daylight' bulbs.

This is far more confusing that I thought it would be. Thanks to everyone who is helping out on this thread. You are really doing a great service for those of us just learning about aquarium lighting.
:thumbsup:

 

[rtparty]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14371353#post14371353 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
Its magic

See I told you he had some nice scientific explanation!

Smartassious is true!

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14371165#post14371165 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by LJA
Thanks Grim,

Since I'm going to have to replace two anyway, would it be even better if I replace all four of my bulbs and replace them with these:


GE 6500K
Blue Plus
UVL 75/25
Blue Plus


Or just stay with 2 AquaSun's and 2 Aqua Blues?
Which of these two do you think would be more blue, and which would be better for growth of LPS and SPS?

I really appreciate your time.

Try it with the Blue Plus and Aquasuns and see what you think. That will actually give you good growth and color things up. If the two Aquasuns are too much red for you add in a ATI Aquablue

 

[MarcB]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14371367#post14371367 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by rtparty
See I told you he had some nice scientific explanation!

Smartassious is true!

Actually, the correct answer involves several elves and a gnome, but its too long and drawn out to be posted online.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14371367#post14371367 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by rtparty
See I told you he had some nice scientific explanation!

Smartassious is true!

Darn shame political threads arent allowed so you could bask in the true light of my genius and benefit from the full scope of my infinite wisdom.

Talent, stunning good looks and humility wrapped up in the perfect package. What can I say.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14371394#post14371394 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by MarcB
Actually, the correct answer involves several elves and a gnome, but its too long and drawn out to be posted online.

Offering any further details on the elves and gnome would violate the UA. I would like to know how the footprints got on the ceiling though

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14371362#post14371362 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by MarcB
I ordered 12 lamps from Reefgeek, and it must have seemed wierd, because Greg called me to see if I was insane. (I was).

He spent a lot of time advising me, and trying to find out what I wanted from the lights. To be honest, it's all still very confusing, but here are the bulbs that I wound up getting, I just want to make sure that I have the placement correct:

Stock Blue (old) - Blue bank
UVL Aqua Blue - Daylight
UVL Super Actinic - Blue bank
UVL AquaSun - Daylight
ATI Blue Plus - Blue bank
UVL Aqua Blue - Daylight
Stock blue (old) - Blue bank
ATI Blue Plus - Daylight

The fixture alternates the 'blue' bulbs with the 'daylight' bulbs.

This is far more confusing that I thought it would be. Thanks to everyone who is helping out on this thread. You are really doing a great service for those of us just learning about aquarium lighting.
:thumbsup:

Should look good.