The T5 Q&a Thread

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Whats up Grim? Im in need of your lighting expertise. I just came into a 58g Oceanic 36x18x21.5 and Id like to light it with T5 HO's. My question is what bulb combonation and number of bulbs would you reccomend? I was thinking 6. Also would an Icecap 660 be enough to power all of those tubes alone or should I run two of them? Id like to try and hit that Phoenix 14k look that my old MH used to do, while at the same time encouraging a lot of growth. Thanks for your opinions!
 
6 lamps with Ice Cap reflectors but use standard T5 ballast

Front
ATI Blue Plus
UVL 75/25
GE 6500K Daylight
ATI Blue Plus
ATI Aquablue
ATI Blue Plus
 
Grim,

I'm trying to decide between an ATI powermodule and making my own retrofit setup for a 10 x 54W fixture. If I do the retrofit I'll use one of the icecap retrofit kits with the 660 ballasts. It looks like the price is only a couple hundred dollars more for the comparable powermodule. Can you comment on the quality of the components of the powermodule as opposed to the icecap equipment, specifically the ballasts and reflectors? I don't want to spend a lot of time doing the retrofit for only a couple hundred in savings unless I also get better equipment by buying the icecap components.
 
Grim, it's incredible the amount of support that you give to the community. Thank you!

I have a pre-existing system that I bought from a guy recently - a standard 180 (72" x 24" x 24") with a 7 x T5, 1 x VHO retrofit in the canopy. Staggered 60" bulbs were used as 72" was not available at the time the canopy was built.

Front to back, the configuration is as follows:
T5 Giesemann 11KK Aquablue+, positions 1, 3 & 7
T5 Giesemann Actinic+, positions 2, 4 & 8
VHO (160W) URI Super Actinic Blue, position 5
T5 GE 6500K Daylight, position 6

Turn-on (sunrise-to-daylight) sequence is [5, 8] followed by [1, 3, 4] followed by [2, 6, 7]. Turn off sequence is the reverse. The groups of three are powered with IceCap 660's; the doublet with an IceCap 430.

The lighting's a bit "daylight" looking to me though I seem to get tons of PAR and my corals are growing quickly. Personally, I like the look of the Phoenix 14000K MH I have over my frag tank.

If I were to change my bulb mix (leaving the VHO and power arranged as described above), what would you suggest to give me some "pop?"

If I were to change out my T5 bulbs to 72" (but, again leaving the same power in place), would your recommended mix change?
 
What rate (days) do you recommend when swapping out bulbs? I have been running 3x10K and 3x460NM 48" crappy Current bulbs in my retro-fit on my 150 gallon. These bulbs are only about 3 months used. I am now incorporating quality bulbs and wondering if i should just replace them all in one shot, or 1 bulb per day, 1 bulb every other day, etc. What do you think? Thanks.
 
Thanks for the quick reply grim! Would it be possible to run that configuration on 660's? I only ask because a local reefer is giving me a sweet deal on one or two if I want them, and Im pretty sure that they would end up costing less or equal to buying brand new reg T5 ballasts. Can I run all those bulbs on one 660? Or will I need 2?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14225276#post14225276 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Origami2547
Grim, it's incredible the amount of support that you give to the community. Thank you!

I have a pre-existing system that I bought from a guy recently - a standard 180 (72" x 24" x 24") with a 7 x T5, 1 x VHO retrofit in the canopy. Staggered 60" bulbs were used as 72" was not available at the time the canopy was built.

Front to back, the configuration is as follows:
T5 Giesemann 11KK Aquablue+, positions 1, 3 & 7
T5 Giesemann Actinic+, positions 2, 4 & 8
VHO (160W) URI Super Actinic Blue, position 5
T5 GE 6500K Daylight, position 6

Turn-on (sunrise-to-daylight) sequence is [5, 8] followed by [1, 3, 4] followed by [2, 6, 7]. Turn off sequence is the reverse. The groups of three are powered with IceCap 660's; the doublet with an IceCap 430.

The lighting's a bit "daylight" looking to me though I seem to get tons of PAR and my corals are growing quickly. Personally, I like the look of the Phoenix 14000K MH I have over my frag tank.

If I were to change my bulb mix (leaving the VHO and power arranged as described above), what would you suggest to give me some "pop?"

If I were to change out my T5 bulbs to 72" (but, again leaving the same power in place), would your recommended mix change?


They don't make 72" T5 bulbs. You have to use 2 rows of 36" bulbs. I would just stick with the 60" and make sure they are cooled properly.

ATI Blue Plus
Fiji Purple
ATI Aquablue
GE 6500K
VHO (I would look into switching this out for another T5)
ATI Blue Plus
GE 6500K
ATI Blue Plus

That might work for ya!
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14225579#post14225579 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Corndork2
Thanks for the quick reply grim! Would it be possible to run that configuration on 660's? I only ask because a local reefer is giving me a sweet deal on one or two if I want them, and Im pretty sure that they would end up costing less or equal to buying brand new reg T5 ballasts. Can I run all those bulbs on one 660? Or will I need 2?

What kind of deal? A new T5 ballast from Reefgeek is $40.
 
Thanks for all the feedback so quickly! The used 660's would run me about 10 or 20 bucks more than the ballasts from reefgeek. Now that Im in the mood of asking questions... What coral types could I keep with 4x39w on a 58g Oceanic 36x18x20 (or something close to that) would four bulbs be enough to keep ricordea, softies, lps, and possibly a couple clams high in the rockwork? What bulb combo would you reccomend for it?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14226171#post14226171 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Corndork2
Thanks for all the feedback so quickly! The used 660's would run me about 10 or 20 bucks more than the ballasts from reefgeek. Now that Im in the mood of asking questions... What coral types could I keep with 4x39w on a 58g Oceanic 36x18x20 (or something close to that) would four bulbs be enough to keep ricordea, softies, lps, and possibly a couple clams high in the rockwork? What bulb combo would you reccomend for it?

Grim is much more of an expert but with 4 bulbs it is hard to get full coverage. On an 18" wide tank 6 bulbs is optimum. Maybe get one 660 for 4 bulbs and one from reefgeek for the other 2? That way you also have 2 stage lighting that you can play with for dusk/dawn.

For 4 bulbs I like:

ATI Blue Plus
Fiji Purple
ATI Aquablue
ATI Blue Plus

or

ATI Blue Plus
UVL 75/25
GE 6500K
ATI Blue Plus

The upper one has higher PAR for your SPS and clams.

For 6 bulbs I really like

ATI Blue Plus
UVL 75/25
ATI Blue Plus
UVL Aquasun
ATI Blue Plus
ATI Aquablue
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14203635#post14203635 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
ATI Powermodule

Aquactinics Solar Flare

ATI Sunpower

Aquactinics Constellation

SLS Tek Light

In that order as far as output.

The best bang for the buck is the 6 lamp Sunpower without a doubt. under 550 bux.

Grim -

I'm definitely trying to stay in the $500 range (including bulbs). I noticed the 48" TX5 Aquactinics is about $460 (not including bulbs). I'm just not finding the Sunpower anywhere for sale yet - I guess it's coming soon?

I'm thinking this is going to be on a 4' tank - most likely a 75g. So I would be looking at a 5 or 6 bulb fixture. The ATI Powermodule & Constellation are probably a little too pricey ($800+) for me.
 
Thanks for all the help man! I really appreciate the input. I didnt even think about the coverage issue when using 4 bulbs vs 6.
 
Hey grim you suggested to arrange my bulbs like this:
Front
Blue +
Super Actinic
AquaSun
Blue +
GE 6500k
Blue Plus

I forgot to tell you I have a powermodule with 6 bulbs, so the Super Actinic will light up with the GE 6500k. Should I leave like that or how should I rearrange the bulbs?

Thanks
 
P.S. Grim -

I'm assuming the TX5 Aquactinics is probably a better fixture than the Tek since it's actively cooled. Also, money wise, it comes with stands & shield for the fixture - and the Tek stands are a side item that must be purchased - as is the shield too.

So while one less bulb - I would assume better output since it's cooled. Though, I will have to check out the ATI Sunpower once I can find it for sale.
 
Question for grim.

I was supposed to go with a combo you suggested for my 8x80w

4 blue+
2 AB Special 12K
1 AS duo
1 ATI actinic

I got

4 blue+
2 AB special
I AS 22K
and the duo was broken on shipping

I set up and its pretty blue, not so bad in person, but takes pics weird. Colours pop like crazy.

I have to replace the broken bulb, and I plan on buying 2-3 spares, to mess around with. Waht would you recommend to tone down the blue a bit?
 
I am now happy with my new light. I really like this Nova Extreme Pro. I wrote ReefGeek an e-mail asking their opinion on the best light combination. They recommended

ATI blue plus
ATI true actinic
UVL 10000k Aquasun
ATI blue plus
UVL 75/25
ATI Aqua blue


I wish the pictures actually showed the crispness of the colors in the tank. Just enough blue, red and purple (yes, I know red and blue make purple hehe). I was stumped by the "true actinic" bulb as it was hard to tell if it was even on!! lol


newlight063.jpg


newlight065.jpg
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14228143#post14228143 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by FranktheTankTx
P.S. Grim -

I'm assuming the TX5 Aquactinics is probably a better fixture than the Tek since it's actively cooled. Also, money wise, it comes with stands & shield for the fixture - and the Tek stands are a side item that must be purchased - as is the shield too.

So while one less bulb - I would assume better output since it's cooled. Though, I will have to check out the ATI Sunpower once I can find it for sale.

Get the TEK 6 bulb fixture and get the legs for it. You don't need a shield as long as you keep it at least 4" off the water.

To help cool the TEK go to Foster and Smith and buy the Azoo clamp on fan. Have the fan cool the fixture and not point directly at the bulbs. If you can hit the fixture kind of at an angle from above that is best.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14225063#post14225063 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by woz9683
Grim,

I'm trying to decide between an ATI powermodule and making my own retrofit setup for a 10 x 54W fixture. If I do the retrofit I'll use one of the icecap retrofit kits with the 660 ballasts. It looks like the price is only a couple hundred dollars more for the comparable powermodule. Can you comment on the quality of the components of the powermodule as opposed to the icecap equipment, specifically the ballasts and reflectors? I don't want to spend a lot of time doing the retrofit for only a couple hundred in savings unless I also get better equipment by buying the icecap components.

ATI Has better reflectors, Ice Cap has better ballasts. Done right the Ice Cap retro would have a little more output. Of course if the PM fixture is set up low to the tank it can be about even I would guess. The retro has to be 4 inches above the water or so because of salt creep.
 
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