The T5 Q&a Thread

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14225276#post14225276 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Origami2547
Grim, it's incredible the amount of support that you give to the community. Thank you!

I have a pre-existing system that I bought from a guy recently - a standard 180 (72" x 24" x 24") with a 7 x T5, 1 x VHO retrofit in the canopy. Staggered 60" bulbs were used as 72" was not available at the time the canopy was built.

Front to back, the configuration is as follows:
T5 Giesemann 11KK Aquablue+, positions 1, 3 & 7
T5 Giesemann Actinic+, positions 2, 4 & 8
VHO (160W) URI Super Actinic Blue, position 5
T5 GE 6500K Daylight, position 6

Turn-on (sunrise-to-daylight) sequence is [5, 8] followed by [1, 3, 4] followed by [2, 6, 7]. Turn off sequence is the reverse. The groups of three are powered with IceCap 660's; the doublet with an IceCap 430.

The lighting's a bit "daylight" looking to me though I seem to get tons of PAR and my corals are growing quickly. Personally, I like the look of the Phoenix 14000K MH I have over my frag tank.

If I were to change my bulb mix (leaving the VHO and power arranged as described above), what would you suggest to give me some "pop?"

If I were to change out my T5 bulbs to 72" (but, again leaving the same power in place), would your recommended mix change?

ATI Blue Plus
ATI Pro Color
ATI Blue Plus
ATI Aquablue
Actinic VHO
GE 6500K Daylight
ATI Aquablue
ATI Blue Plus

If I got that right you get the VHO Actinic and 1 Blue Plus for dusk/dawn add in 2 more blue plus and the aquablue for early/late sun and a pro color daylight and aquablue for midday. You could swap the Pro color into the 2nd set of lamps to come on in place of the Aquablue. It would add red to all that blue. Looks neat but not everyone likes it. You would just have to swap positions 2 and 4 lamps.

As in

Front
BP
AB
BP
Pro Color

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14226171#post14226171 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Corndork2
Thanks for all the feedback so quickly! The used 660's would run me about 10 or 20 bucks more than the ballasts from reefgeek. Now that Im in the mood of asking questions... What coral types could I keep with 4x39w on a 58g Oceanic 36x18x20 (or something close to that) would four bulbs be enough to keep ricordea, softies, lps, and possibly a couple clams high in the rockwork? What bulb combo would you reccomend for it?

If you are talking overdriven 4 would let you keep clams on the sand.


6 overdriven over that tank aint going to make softies and some of the LPS happy campers.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14227230#post14227230 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by FranktheTankTx
Grim -

I'm definitely trying to stay in the $500 range (including bulbs). I noticed the 48" TX5 Aquactinics is about $460 (not including bulbs). I'm just not finding the Sunpower anywhere for sale yet - I guess it's coming soon?

I'm thinking this is going to be on a 4' tank - most likely a 75g. So I would be looking at a 5 or 6 bulb fixture. The ATI Powermodule & Constellation are probably a little too pricey ($800+) for me.

The Sunpower is supposed to come in about 550 with lamps.

The Tx5 would work but be careful not to put high light clams or SPS too far down in the tank. Nothing too much beyond halfway down the rocks.

 

[dkirchoff]

Grim....no questions...just thanks for eveybit of adivice on this stuff for all of us!!!

 

[FranktheTankTx]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14228925#post14228925 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by rtparty
Get the TEK 6 bulb fixture and get the legs for it. You don't need a shield as long as you keep it at least 4" off the water.

To help cool the TEK go to Foster and Smith and buy the Azoo clamp on fan. Have the fan cool the fixture and not point directly at the bulbs. If you can hit the fixture kind of at an angle from above that is best.

Grim &/or rtparty

The TEK 48" 6 bulb at Reef Geek is $470 w/ bulbs & the legs are an additional $60 - putting me at $530. I doubt I would feel comfortable without the shield - so add another $34 - total $560. I haven't looked up what a fan would cost - but I'm assuming no less than $20 & maybe upwards like $30 - total $580/$590.

At that point - now we're getting into economics w/ me. If the Sunpower is going to be $550 w/ bulbs & actively cooled, comes with hanging unit, and shield - it's just a "More Bang for the Buck". Which is exactly what both you and Grim suggested. I think I'll have to check it out.

As for bulb selection - if I wanted a 20k (I run a 20k Radium on my other tank) appearance:

What bulb selection would you suggest for the sunpower?

 

[Altikesimoglu]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14221424#post14221424 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Altikesimoglu
Hi Grim,
On my way to downgrade my tank from 250g to a 130g (51*28*20 shallow rimless), I've already ordered my ATI PM 10*54W T5 fixture. My tank will be heavily SPS dominated along with a couple of small clams and some lovely LPS( if I can manage to find a decent low light spot). As a personal preference, I like to look of blueish tanks. I'd appreciate any bulb suggestions (mostly ATI ) from front to back incl. dusk/dawn lamps.

thanks

no suggestions? :rollface:

 

[rtparty]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14231091#post14231091 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Altikesimoglu
no suggestions? :rollface:

ATI Blue Plus
UVL 75/25
ATI Blue Plus
GE 6500K
ATI Blue Plus
ATI Aquablue
UVL 75/25
ATI Blue Plus
GE 6500K
ATI Aquablue

 

[Todd March]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14231091#post14231091 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Altikesimoglu
no suggestions? :rollface:

Blue+
ATI Aquablue
UVL (or ATI) Actinic
Blue+
Pro Color
6500K (Or Giesemann Midday or ATI Aquablue)
Blue+
UVL (or ATI) Actinic
ATI Aquablue
Blue+

The actinics are in the third and eighth slots (seperate ballast on the Powermodule) for dawn/dusk. If you want more PAR for outstanding growth, and really like a blue 20K look, replace the actinics with Blue+'s...

 

[ganjero]

Hey grim you suggested to arrange my bulbs like this:
Front
Blue +
Super Actinic
AquaSun
Blue +
GE 6500k
Blue Plus

I forgot to tell you I have a powermodule with 6 bulbs, so the Super Actinic will light up with the GE 6500k. Should I leave like that or how should I rearrange the bulbs?

Thanks

Also, I noticed that on the powermodule the bulbs are right against the reflectors, wouldn't that hurt the output? Most of the other fixtures and reflector leave a space in between and in fact they have the \/ right above the bulb.

 

[woz9683]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14228993#post14228993 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
ATI Has better reflectors, Ice Cap has better ballasts. Done right the Ice Cap retro would have a little more output. Of course if the PM fixture is set up low to the tank it can be about even I would guess. The retro has to be 4 inches above the water or so because of salt creep.

Grim,

I'd use a shield on the retro, so height wouldn't be an issue. What do they use 1/8" acrylic? Are the ballasts on the powermodule external? Could I ever change over to icecap ballasts if I wanted? Also, on the powermodule, are the reflectors vented to allow the cooling fans to blow directly on the bulbs? I was thinking that might be difficult to duplicate in a retro. Thanks again!

 

[rtparty]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14232532#post14232532 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by woz9683
Grim,

I'd use a shield on the retro, so height wouldn't be an issue. What do they use 1/8" acrylic? Are the ballasts on the powermodule external? Could I ever change over to icecap ballasts if I wanted? Also, on the powermodule, are the reflectors vented to allow the cooling fans to blow directly on the bulbs? I was thinking that might be difficult to duplicate in a retro. Thanks again!

On the PowerModule it has holes on one end of the fixture right by the lamp ends. That way air goes in the fixture down to the holes, and is pulled down the bulbs to cool them. You do not want air directly on the bulbs in either case. You can over cool them and hurt output.

I believe you want the cold spots on bulbs to be around 113 degrees faranheit(sp?).

 

[woz9683]

Okay, I see how that works now. And I found a better picture of the powermodule, obviously the ballasts are internal, just some sort of splitter or converter outside the fixture on the cord. Damn, I think I'm going to have to make my own. Are there any better reflectors than the icecaps for DIY work? And still curious what to make the shield out of too (guessing 1/8" acrylic)?

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14227630#post14227630 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ganjero
Hey grim you suggested to arrange my bulbs like this:
Front
Blue +
Super Actinic
AquaSun
Blue +
GE 6500k
Blue Plus

I forgot to tell you I have a powermodule with 6 bulbs, so the Super Actinic will light up with the GE 6500k. Should I leave like that or how should I rearrange the bulbs?

Thanks

Swap the position of the GE and a Blue Plus. Might even do a Aquablue in place of the GE in that case. Hard to say until you see it running.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14228200#post14228200 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Melonbob
Question for grim.

I was supposed to go with a combo you suggested for my 8x80w

4 blue+
2 AB Special 12K
1 AS duo
1 ATI actinic

I got

4 blue+
2 AB special
I AS 22K
and the duo was broken on shipping

I set up and its pretty blue, not so bad in person, but takes pics weird. Colours pop like crazy.

I have to replace the broken bulb, and I plan on buying 2-3 spares, to mess around with. Waht would you recommend to tone down the blue a bit?

Either the GE daylight or Giesemann Midday, could even try the Gmann Aquaflora to boost the reds. Another Aquablue would also be good to have on hand.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14229903#post14229903 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by FranktheTankTx
Grim &/or rtparty

The TEK 48" 6 bulb at Reef Geek is $470 w/ bulbs & the legs are an additional $60 - putting me at $530. I doubt I would feel comfortable without the shield - so add another $34 - total $560. I haven't looked up what a fan would cost - but I'm assuming no less than $20 & maybe upwards like $30 - total $580/$590.

At that point - now we're getting into economics w/ me. If the Sunpower is going to be $550 w/ bulbs & actively cooled, comes with hanging unit, and shield - it's just a "More Bang for the Buck". Which is exactly what both you and Grim suggested. I think I'll have to check it out.

As for bulb selection - if I wanted a 20k (I run a 20k Radium on my other tank) appearance:

What bulb selection would you suggest for the sunpower?

You dont want to run the shield on the tek, kills the output.

For the sunpower

Front
ATI Aquablue
ATI Blue Plus
ATI Aquablue
ATI Blue Plus
UVL 75/25
ATI Blue Plus

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14231091#post14231091 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Altikesimoglu
no suggestions? :rollface:

Could have sworn I already answered this, may have gotten lost in one of the numerous server timeouts.

Front
ATI Blue Plus
ATI Aquablue
UVL 75/25 or Fiji Purple or ATI Pro Color
ATI Blue Plus
GE 6500K Daylight or Giesemann Midday
ATI Blue Plus
UVL 75/25 or Fiji Purple or ATI Pro Color
ATI Blue Plus
ATI Aquablue
ATI Blue Plus

You may need to tweak the positions to get the right set of lamps for dusk/dawn. I'd grab a couple spare lamps, probably the ATI Aquablues.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14232260#post14232260 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ganjero
Hey grim you suggested to arrange my bulbs like this:
Front
Blue +
Super Actinic
AquaSun
Blue +
GE 6500k
Blue Plus

I forgot to tell you I have a powermodule with 6 bulbs, so the Super Actinic will light up with the GE 6500k. Should I leave like that or how should I rearrange the bulbs?

Thanks

Also, I noticed that on the powermodule the bulbs are right against the reflectors, wouldn't that hurt the output? Most of the other fixtures and reflector leave a space in between and in fact they have the \/ right above the bulb.

Swap the GE position with a blue plus.

The ATI use a different style reflector. Whatever they do it works.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14232532#post14232532 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by woz9683
Grim,

I'd use a shield on the retro, so height wouldn't be an issue. What do they use 1/8" acrylic? Are the ballasts on the powermodule external? Could I ever change over to icecap ballasts if I wanted? Also, on the powermodule, are the reflectors vented to allow the cooling fans to blow directly on the bulbs? I was thinking that might be difficult to duplicate in a retro. Thanks again!

It would be hard but not impossible to duplicate the powermodule cooling scheme on a retro. You can't swap out the ballasts. If you aren't in a big hurry and have a good lighting budget hold off on your purchase a couple months. There might be something of interest to you coming along.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14233049#post14233049 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by woz9683
Okay, I see how that works now. And I found a better picture of the powermodule, obviously the ballasts are internal, just some sort of splitter or converter outside the fixture on the cord. Damn, I think I'm going to have to make my own. Are there any better reflectors than the icecaps for DIY work? And still curious what to make the shield out of too (guessing 1/8" acrylic)?

Thin acrylic (It has to be thick enough to stay in place so the more laps the thicker the acrylic must be)

The Reefgeek brand reflectors are better than Ice Cap. Aquactinics reflectors are slightly better than Ice Cap and only 2" wide.

 

[woz9683]

Ok, hopefully last questions. How much of a difference are we talking about for the ballasts? Are they different outputs or different lifespans? And what are the reefgeek brand reflectors, I didn't see them listed on their site?