The T5 Q&a Thread

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14605056#post14605056 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by todd141
Here's what I have now in my 4 bulb:

front
------------
blue pluse
fiji purple
aquasun
UVL 454

No SPS, just 1 lobo and 1 acan, the rest are zoas and polyps.

I'd like something better to replace the aquasun - just makes everything really WHITE.....

another blue plus?

Yep

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14604292#post14604292 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by bosborn1
I am considering switching my 6ft 180 sps dominat reef from MH over to all T5. With the 6ft tank I have the option of going with 3ft or the 5ft. My question is what will give me the best most wide spread lighting regardless of cost? I was thinking either 16 3fts all on Icecap 660s or even the 10 bulb 5ft ATI Powermodule. I want light to be strong and equal in all areas of the tank. I do have clams at the bottom and the depth is 24"

Would t5s suit this or should I stay with MHs.

Thanks
Scott

The 16 36" T5's would be best. I don't know that you would have to overdrive all of them. I would say 4 rows overdriven

 

[J.R.L.]

hey grim i sent you a pm but my inbox was full can you resend it to me?

 

[monotreme_man]

thanks muchly, grim.

i cannot adequately express how much i value your (and others) work here.

 

[bosborn1]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14604944#post14604944 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by rtparty
If you want the best coverage regardless of cost then I would get (2) 8x39W ATI Powermodules. I personally think T5's are much better then MH. Especially for coloration.

ATI Blue Plus
ATI Aquablue
KZ Fiji Purple
ATI Blue Plus
GE 6500K
ATI Aquablue
KZ Fiji Purple
ATI Blue Plus

I will take a look at the the two ATIs. Do they over drive?

If I go with Icecaps how would I not overdrive all the bulbs? Would their be a cost savings to not over driving them? If I do go with the retro I was thinking of going with a DIY fiberglass suspended hood. I have a open top now and would like to keep the look.

Sorry for all the questions. I know my way around all things Halide but I have little experience with the T5 stuff.

I do like that bulb combo. Although I was thinking of popping in a couple of those Giesmann 03 Actinics for that old school URI "pop". I do have 6 of the current Powerbrite LEDs over the tank right now. Should I just use those for the pop instead? I really like that they give the shimmer.

Thanks
Scott

 

[J.R.L.]

ok i want the 48" 8 bulb T5 Icecap retro (with bulbs) that overdrives the bulbs...but on reefgeek its very confusing because all the Tek 2 and icecaps have identical pictures and looks the same and some are labeled as VHO and some arent

which one do i need?

http://www.reefgeek.com/lighting/T5_Fluorescent/IceCap/SLR_Retrofit_Kits/

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14606432#post14606432 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by bosborn1
I will take a look at the the two ATIs. Do they over drive?

If I go with Icecaps how would I not overdrive all the bulbs? Would their be a cost savings to not over driving them? If I do go with the retro I was thinking of going with a DIY fiberglass suspended hood. I have a open top now and would like to keep the look.

Sorry for all the questions. I know my way around all things Halide but I have little experience with the T5 stuff.

I do like that bulb combo. Although I was thinking of popping in a couple of those Giesmann 03 Actinics for that old school URI "pop". I do have 6 of the current Powerbrite LEDs over the tank right now. Should I just use those for the pop instead? I really like that they give the shimmer.

Thanks
Scott

The Ice Cap ballasts overdrive T5's. Using 2 660's would drive 4 rows of lamps then you have 1 ballast driving each of the remaining 4 rows. That lets you have a cool ramp up to full lighting.

Of course if the ATI fixtures are in the budget can't go wrong there

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14606477#post14606477 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by J.R.L.
ok i want the 48" 8 bulb T5 Icecap retro (with bulbs) that overdrives the bulbs...but on reefgeek its very confusing because all the Tek 2 and icecaps have identical pictures and looks the same and some are labeled as VHO and some arent

which one do i need?

http://www.reefgeek.com/lighting/T5_Fluorescent/IceCap/SLR_Retrofit_Kits/

Ice Cap brand VHO T5 Retrofit kit. If you are confused just call Greg, he will straighten you out.

 

[whoyah]

Hi All,

2 questions:

1. Can I get a recommendation on good 4 bulb combination that is strictly UVI bulbs? I have softies and lps.

2. I was wondering if any one else is experiencing problems with running ATI bulbs on IC 430s. I am currently running 2 IC 430 that are each firing a pair of 39W T5 bulb. The ATI bulbs only last about 3 months before failing. The ATI bulbs fail because they crack about a 1/2" away from the socket. Most of the failed bulbs have a burn spot near or on top of the crack. I do not believe the crack is caused by a tight reflector clip or faulty wiring. I believe that the ATI bulbs are not strong enough to be installed in my system. The UVI bulbs I have, do not seem to have a problem hence question 1.

Thanks in advance

 

[rtparty]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14607190#post14607190 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by whoyah
Hi All,

2 questions:

1. Can I get a recommendation on good 4 bulb combination that is strictly UVI bulbs? I have softies and lps.

2. I was wondering if any one else is experiencing problems with running ATI bulbs on IC 430s. I am currently running 2 IC 430 that are each firing a pair of 39W T5 bulb. The ATI bulbs only last about 3 months before failing. The ATI bulbs fail because they crack about a 1/2" away from the socket. Most of the failed bulbs have a burn spot near or on top of the crack. I do not believe the crack is caused by a tight reflector clip or faulty wiring. I believe that the ATI bulbs are not strong enough to be installed in my system. The UVI bulbs I have, do not seem to have a problem hence question 1.

Thanks in advance

From what I know UVL has no blue bulbs so it will be VERY difficult to reco anything.

Are you cooling the bulbs? Maybe change the IC ballasts to a normally driven high output ballast.

 

[rtparty]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14606432#post14606432 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by bosborn1
I will take a look at the the two ATIs. Do they over drive?

If I go with Icecaps how would I not overdrive all the bulbs? Would their be a cost savings to not over driving them? If I do go with the retro I was thinking of going with a DIY fiberglass suspended hood. I have a open top now and would like to keep the look.

Sorry for all the questions. I know my way around all things Halide but I have little experience with the T5 stuff.

I do like that bulb combo. Although I was thinking of popping in a couple of those Giesmann 03 Actinics for that old school URI "pop". I do have 6 of the current Powerbrite LEDs over the tank right now. Should I just use those for the pop instead? I really like that they give the shimmer.

Thanks
Scott

No the ATI do not over drive but you don't need to on that tank really. Especially with the ATI's. You may have a tough time keeping softies happy with them but SPS and clams love them!

The ATI fixtures are very good looking and will only improve the open top look if you hang them.

If you want to lower your PAR then adding some actinics will do that for you but I don't run them and I know Grim can't tell a difference with them. If you want to add actinic then change both KZ Fiji Purples to UVL 75/25's. That way you still get some red and some actinic pop as well.

 

[bosborn1]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14606698#post14606698 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
The Ice Cap ballasts overdrive T5's. Using 2 660's would drive 4 rows of lamps then you have 1 ballast driving each of the remaining 4 rows. That lets you have a cool ramp up to full lighting.

Of course if the ATI fixtures are in the budget can't go wrong there

Ok I think I got it.

I would then get 2 660s and then 4 of the standard ballasts to do 16.

I was looking at the ATI. I would really like to have it. But if I can do something else for half the price then I might go that way. Coolness quotient is nice....But not twice the price nice.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

What are you doing for cooling? Nobody else seems to hve a problem with the ati's

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14607190#post14607190 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by whoyah
Hi All,

2 questions:

1. Can I get a recommendation on good 4 bulb combination that is strictly UVI bulbs? I have softies and lps.

2. I was wondering if any one else is experiencing problems with running ATI bulbs on IC 430s. I am currently running 2 IC 430 that are each firing a pair of 39W T5 bulb. The ATI bulbs only last about 3 months before failing. The ATI bulbs fail because they crack about a 1/2" away from the socket. Most of the failed bulbs have a burn spot near or on top of the crack. I do not believe the crack is caused by a tight reflector clip or faulty wiring. I believe that the ATI bulbs are not strong enough to be installed in my system. The UVI bulbs I have, do not seem to have a problem hence question 1.

Thanks in advance

 

[Challenge]

Grim,

I see you reccomending the UVL AW now for added PAR.
My current setup is front to back;

1. GM Actinic Plus
2. UVL 75/25
3. GM Aquablue plus
4. GM MIdday 6000k
5. GM Actinic Plus
6. GM Aquablue Plus

Looking for more PAR with maybe a touch more red

Which would you change and would the AW be a good option?

Thanks

 

[A.T.T.R]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14609050#post14609050 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
What are you doing for cooling? Nobody else seems to hve a problem with the ati's

i have both uvl and geismans going bad on icecap setup... you just need better cooling as do i

 

[J.R.L.]

would you say its worth it to get the icecap retro vs the tek fixture? from what i understand the icecap VHO retro will overdrive the bulbs and be alittle brighter but is it worth another $200?

 

[rtparty]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14609114#post14609114 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Challenge
Grim,

I see you reccomending the UVL AW now for added PAR.
My current setup is front to back;

1. GM Actinic Plus
2. UVL 75/25
3. GM Aquablue plus
4. GM MIdday 6000k
5. GM Actinic Plus
6. GM Aquablue Plus

Looking for more PAR with maybe a touch more red

Which would you change and would the AW be a good option?

Thanks

If you want more PAR and more red than the KZ Fiji Purple is your best bet on that. The Actinic White will give slightly more PAR and red but the Fiji Purple will really bump up the PAR.

 

[rtparty]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14609299#post14609299 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by J.R.L.
would you say its worth it to get the icecap retro vs the tek fixture? from what i understand the icecap VHO retro will overdrive the bulbs and be alittle brighter but is it worth another $200?

IMO that is like comparing apples and oranges. The TEK fixture is mid level and the IC is higher end. You will get better PAR and results with the IC. But if you overdrive the bulbs they won't last as long.

With the TEK fixture you will want to buy some fans to help cool the fixture.

 

[J.R.L.]

i really dont care about bulb life, i mean going from a bulb life of 18 mos to 12 mos is not a big deal to me. i just want as much light as possible but wasnt sure if it would be worth another $200

 

[rtparty]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14609424#post14609424 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by J.R.L.
i really dont care about bulb life, i mean going from a bulb life of 18 mos to 12 mos is not a big deal to me. i just want as much light as possible but wasnt sure if it would be worth another $200

That is good because over driven you will get 8 months out of them.