The T5 Q&a Thread

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Any help would be appreciated I am Planning a LPS/Sps/Clam Tank in a living room area, and have been kicking around MH/T5 Combo Lighting, or just T5 Lighting My Tank is going to be a Zero Edge 43"x31"x14" ht. 80gal Tank. I was looking at the 2 Fixtures below, and wanted to get an expert opinion. I would rather go the T5 Fixture only due to Cost, and if the opinion is it will work well, what bulbs combo do you suggest?
Thanks for any help in advance!!..


Aquactinics Constellation 7 Lamp T5 HO Fixture.

Features:

# Built in ballasts
# Built in dual fans
# Low profile design (only 3” high)
# Full length splash shield included
# Accommodates various hanging and mounting systems
# Individual reflectors using Miro IV aluminum
# All Aluminum, powdercoated housing
# Three switches/power cords for greater lighting control
# Includes tank mounting brackets

Dimensions of 48" fixture are: 48" L x 14" W x 3" H

or with this MH/T5 Combo

Giesemann 2 x 250 watt HQI + 4 x 54 watt T5 - Black
Code:GM-250-263-K
Price: $1,649.95
Rating: none
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14923628#post14923628 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by fletchman
Any help would be appreciated I am Planning a LPS/Sps/Clam Tank in a living room area, and have been kicking around MH/T5 Combo Lighting, or just T5 Lighting My Tank is going to be a Zero Edge 43"x31"x14" ht. 80gal Tank. I was looking at the 2 Fixtures below, and wanted to get an expert opinion. I would rather go the T5 Fixture only due to Cost, and if the opinion is it will work well, what bulbs combo do you suggest?
Thanks for any help in advance!!..


Aquactinics Constellation 7 Lamp T5 HO Fixture.

Features:

# Built in ballasts
# Built in dual fans
# Low profile design (only 3” high)
# Full length splash shield included
# Accommodates various hanging and mounting systems
# Individual reflectors using Miro IV aluminum
# All Aluminum, powdercoated housing
# Three switches/power cords for greater lighting control
# Includes tank mounting brackets

Dimensions of 48" fixture are: 48" L x 14" W x 3" H

or with this MH/T5 Combo

Giesemann 2 x 250 watt HQI + 4 x 54 watt T5 - Black
Code:GM-250-263-K
Price: $1,649.95
Rating: none

I would probably use 2 Aquactinics TX5 fixtures to cover the 31" front to back. 7 lamps isn't really enough, 10 would do it.

If you are going to hang the fixture I think I would go with an ATI 10 lamp Powermodule. Get a 36" 10 lamp fixture and mount it 10" or so above the tank. That will cover the 43" length pretty well and the 31" front to back.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14923578#post14923578 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
It depends on the main viewing side. if it is the 24" side then 24" lamps are better, that way you have full illumination end to end.

It will be viewable from 3 sides. The 24" will be the front. I think the 36" sides will be viewed more. The tank will be 20" deep, so how many bulbs should I use? I have enough ballast for 5 bulbs the 36" way or 6 bulbs the 24" way.

And thanks so much for your help. I am new to T-5's.
 
In your opinion, does this combo sound good if i am after the 14-15k look on an ATI 10bulb 60" Powermodule?

ATI Blue Plus
KZ Fiji Purple
ATI Blue Plus
GE 6500K
ATI Aquablue
ATI Blue Plus
GE 6500K
ATI Blue Plus
KZ Fiji Purple
ATI Blue Plus
 
Thanks for the suggestions.. if I were to go with the ATI Below that you suggested
what bulb combination would you reccommend as a good starter point to get the best coloration

Thanks again for the help

Ryan

T5 high-output fluorescent lighting system complete with individual parabolic reflectors for each bulb made from silver-coated 98% reflective German-made aluminum, built-in electronic ballasts, active cooling system, acrylic shield, two 10 ft power-cords and sleek, adjustable hanging kit to suspend the unit. Superior design and high-end components produce 50% more light than most other equally sized T5 fixtures without using more energy. Fixture is wired with 2 bulbs on one power-cord and the other 8 bulbs on the other allowing for independent control and dawn-dusk simulation. Silver colored, stainless steel body is durable and rust-proof. Runs very cool and produces virtually no noise. Common Sizing Guideline: SPS dominated tanks up to 110 gallons. Recommended Tank Depth: up to 30" with carefully planned placement of corals. Power Consumption: approximately 3.8 Amps. Warranty: 1 year. Bulbs sold separately.
 
I have a tek 4 bulb fixture over a 75 softie tank. I'm going for the 14k look. About 18 months ago you recommended:

ATI Blue Plus
UVL Super Actinic
UVL Aquasun
ATI Blue Plus

In a recent post I saw you recommend:

ATI Blue Plus
UVL Actinic White or KZ Fiji Purple
ATI Aquablue
ATI Blue Plus

For basically the same setup. Since bulbs have probably changed somewhat over the past year, I'm wondering what you would currently recommend. thanks
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14924271#post14924271 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by 60Cubed
It will be viewable from 3 sides. The 24" will be the front. I think the 36" sides will be viewed more. The tank will be 20" deep, so how many bulbs should I use? I have enough ballast for 5 bulbs the 36" way or 6 bulbs the 24" way.

And thanks so much for your help. I am new to T-5's.

Use 36" lamps. You are really going to want more than 6 lamps though. Keep the lamps as close as possible, Even if you use the bigger Tek II reflectors 6 lamps will cover 18" of tank. I would use 8 lamps but 6 will work, just don't set any higher light critters out from under tha lamps.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14924407#post14924407 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by benf
In your opinion, does this combo sound good if i am after the 14-15k look on an ATI 10bulb 60" Powermodule?

ATI Blue Plus
KZ Fiji Purple
ATI Blue Plus
GE 6500K
ATI Aquablue
ATI Blue Plus
GE 6500K
ATI Blue Plus
KZ Fiji Purple
ATI Blue Plus

I would probably swap the position of the rear fiji with the rear GE just to spread the spectrum but other than that looks good.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14924756#post14924756 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by fletchman
Thanks for the suggestions.. if I were to go with the ATI Below that you suggested
what bulb combination would you reccommend as a good starter point to get the best coloration

Thanks again for the help

Ryan

T5 high-output fluorescent lighting system complete with individual parabolic reflectors for each bulb made from silver-coated 98% reflective German-made aluminum, built-in electronic ballasts, active cooling system, acrylic shield, two 10 ft power-cords and sleek, adjustable hanging kit to suspend the unit. Superior design and high-end components produce 50% more light than most other equally sized T5 fixtures without using more energy. Fixture is wired with 2 bulbs on one power-cord and the other 8 bulbs on the other allowing for independent control and dawn-dusk simulation. Silver colored, stainless steel body is durable and rust-proof. Runs very cool and produces virtually no noise. Common Sizing Guideline: SPS dominated tanks up to 110 gallons. Recommended Tank Depth: up to 30" with carefully planned placement of corals. Power Consumption: approximately 3.8 Amps. Warranty: 1 year. Bulbs sold separately.

Front
ATI Blue Plus
UVL 75/25
ATI Blue Plus
GE 6500K Daylight
ATI Blue Plus
UVL Actinic White
ATI Blue Plus
UVL 75/25
ATI Aquablue
ATI Blue Plus
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14924859#post14924859 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Johnson7
I have a tek 4 bulb fixture over a 75 softie tank. I'm going for the 14k look. About 18 months ago you recommended:

ATI Blue Plus
UVL Super Actinic
UVL Aquasun
ATI Blue Plus

In a recent post I saw you recommend:

ATI Blue Plus
UVL Actinic White or KZ Fiji Purple
ATI Aquablue
ATI Blue Plus

For basically the same setup. Since bulbs have probably changed somewhat over the past year, I'm wondering what you would currently recommend. thanks

I would do the lower one you listed
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14926302#post14926302 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by NemesisElite
im going to start a nano 10 gallon with plenty of zoas and possibly a clam

https://www.marineandreef.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=RCU01124 that is the light i have ordered. i want the "true blue actinic" look to make the zoas really pop out. what kind of combination would you reccomend?

my tank is about 12 1/2 inches in depth

2 ATI Blue Plus
 
I'm jumping on the bandwagon. :)

I'm in the process of setting up a 90g Tech with a 6x54 Watt T5 TEK Fixture. I want to do the dusk dawn effect.

I have a sps dominated tank with Clams. The tank is 25 inches tall. Will my Clam be ok on the bottom still? My tank currently has a 250watt HQI on it.

I want to get more color and growth. What do you all recommend and in what order. I like the look of 14k bulbs but will go bluer/purpler to get more color from the colors as long as I don't sacrifice to much for the clams on the bottom in the sandbed.

Also, how should I acclimate them? Not sure how harsh it will be on the tank.

Thanks
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14926806#post14926806 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by GaryR1984
I'm jumping on the bandwagon. :)

I'm in the process of setting up a 90g Tech with a 6x54 Watt T5 TEK Fixture. I want to do the dusk dawn effect.

I have a sps dominated tank with Clams. The tank is 25 inches tall. Will my Clam be ok on the bottom still? My tank currently has a 250watt HQI on it.

I want to get more color and growth. What do you all recommend and in what order. I like the look of 14k bulbs but will go bluer/purpler to get more color from the colors as long as I don't sacrifice to much for the clams on the bottom in the sandbed.

Also, how should I acclimate them? Not sure how harsh it will be on the tank.

Thanks


If you are going to do the tek don't use the splash shield and get one of the Azoo 2 fan clamp on arrays to cool the fixture. Drs foster and smith sells them. Clamp it on the rear of the tank so it is in the center blowing across the rear edge of the fixture, DON'T POINT IT DIRECTLY AT THE LAMPS. It's good for about 20% more output

For lamps
Front
ATI Blue Plus
KZ Fiji Purple
ATI Blue Plus
GE 6500K Daylight
ATI Blue Plus
ATI Blue Plus
 
Oh wow, what an informative thread!

I am not going 100% T5 on my new 90g, instead I have two 250w halide pendants with Phoenix bulbs. I want to add a 2x48" retro kit, both for additional color and to do the sunrise/sunset thing. I can only fit two bulbs with the space I have left!

I have a few questions I hope you can help with. I tried reading though the thread, but it is long, indeed :)

1) HO or VHO T5s? I can only fit two 48" bulbs. Will I still be able to notice a color difference with 54w (HO) bulbs? I read I need to actively cool the VHOs by blowing air directly on the ends of the bulbs, is that true? What is the heat difference? Also, can I use a 430 ballast since I'm only using two bulbs?

2) What bulb do you recommend to supplement the phoenix bulbs nicely? The phoenix bulbs peak at 460, so I was thinking of going with pure actinics. Would they be powerful enough to add any color over the halides?

Thanks!
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14926945#post14926945 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by becact
Oh wow, what an informative thread!

I am not going 100% T5 on my new 90g, instead I have two 250w halide pendants with Phoenix bulbs. I want to add a 2x48" retro kit, both for additional color and to do the sunrise/sunset thing. I can only fit two bulbs with the space I have left!

I have a few questions I hope you can help with. I tried reading though the thread, but it is long, indeed :)

1) HO or VHO T5s? I can only fit two 48" bulbs. Will I still be able to notice a color difference with 54w (HO) bulbs? I read I need to actively cool the VHOs by blowing air directly on the ends of the bulbs, is that true? What is the heat difference? Also, can I use a 430 ballast since I'm only using two bulbs?

2) What bulb do you recommend to supplement the phoenix bulbs nicely? The phoenix bulbs peak at 460, so I was thinking of going with pure actinics. Would they be powerful enough to add any color over the halides?

Thanks!

I would do normally driven T5's. If you already have a 430 that is fine, they don't overdrive the lamps as much as the 660.

For lamps I would do an ATI Blue Plus and a UVL 75/25. The 75/25 will help pop pink and purple colors and the combo with the blue plus looks cool for dusk/dawn
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14926921#post14926921 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
If you are going to do the tek don't use the splash shield and get one of the Azoo 2 fan clamp on arrays to cool the fixture. Drs foster and smith sells them. Clamp it on the rear of the tank so it is in the center blowing across the rear edge of the fixture, DON'T POINT IT DIRECTLY AT THE LAMPS. It's good for about 20% more output

For lamps
Front
ATI Blue Plus
KZ Fiji Purple
ATI Blue Plus
GE 6500K Daylight
ATI Blue Plus
ATI Blue Plus

Good news is I have one of those fans already.

Now just to make sure I understand this correctly. If I'm facing the tank, I was to see the fan directly behind it and mounted so it blows towards the center but not directly at it. So basically it will move air into the center area of the light and disperse the area around. Is that correct? or did you mean on the far right of the tank blowing across to the other side oft he tank 48 inches. Sorry to ask so many questions just want to make sure I'm right.

Thanks for the bulb combo. I will be good placing my SPS almost anywhere? I basically do it now from mid tank up to the top. I assume my clam should be OK on the bottom? I will hopefully has a 3 inch sand bed too.

Thanks again!
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14927039#post14927039 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
I would do normally driven T5's. If you already have a 430 that is fine, they don't overdrive the lamps as much as the 660.

For lamps I would do an ATI Blue Plus and a UVL 75/25. The 75/25 will help pop pink and purple colors and the combo with the blue plus looks cool for dusk/dawn

Thanks for the advice! I notice both of these bulbs kind of emulate a 14k color. Since I have 14k main lighting, will these bulbs add anything during the day? Since the phoenix is a 460nm bulb, I was trying to fill in the other "gaps" in wavelength (420nm). Do I have the right mindset or does it not work like that? Why do you not suggest pure actinics? Not trying to argue, just curious :)

I plan to run my halides for maybe 6 hours each day (for growth), and the T5s for the other 6 (for display). Will two normally driven T5s be bright enough for just looks? (PAR not important)? So when only the two T5s are on (The 75/25 and the Blue+), would that kind of look like the Phoenix bulb, or different? I know you can get much better color from T5s than halides, so maybe it will look better!
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14926618#post14926618 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
I would probably swap the position of the rear fiji with the rear GE just to spread the spectrum but other than that looks good.

Thanks for your input!!
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14927040#post14927040 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by GaryR1984
Good news is I have one of those fans already.

Now just to make sure I understand this correctly. If I'm facing the tank, I was to see the fan directly behind it and mounted so it blows towards the center but not directly at it. So basically it will move air into the center area of the light and disperse the area around. Is that correct? or did you mean on the far right of the tank blowing across to the other side oft he tank 48 inches. Sorry to ask so many questions just want to make sure I'm right.

Thanks for the bulb combo. I will be good placing my SPS almost anywhere? I basically do it now from mid tank up to the top. I assume my clam should be OK on the bottom? I will hopefully has a 3 inch sand bed too.

Thanks again!

Yeah, you want the fan mounted on the rear tank frame about middle. The air will be split by by the rear edge of the fixture so it goes over and under and through the fixture. Most reliable way I found to cool it without having a PAR meter to try to get it perfect.

The right SPS will be fine down low and the clam should be happy as a clam./
 
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