The T5 Q&a Thread

[twodaend]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15157229#post15157229 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
Front
?? ATI Blue Plus
?? UVL Actinic White
?? ATI Blue Plus
?? ATI Blue Plus for a blue look, not quiet 20K, Aquablue for a brighter 14K look.
Back

Thanks Grim. Will this give me a mix of good color and growth. I heard lower PAR is for growth which I'm guessing the Actinic White will do. I don't have to keep the 14K look as I do now with the MH Phoenix, however I do want a good balance between growth and look.

 

[mcfish]

Re: Re: The usual

Re: Re: The usual

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15157374#post15157374 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
3 lamp 80 watt IC retro should do.

Front
ATI Blue Plus
GE 6500K Daylight
ATI Blue Plus

Normally I would say go 4 lamps but that would mean a second ballast. I would keep a couple of PC's to use just as dusk/dawn. If they make a difference with the T5's running leave them on but I am not sure you'll be able to tell they are on.

Just double checking Mr. Grim, the retro you are suggesting is a VHO such as Reefgeeks sells?

Thank you... Mark

 

[louisvilleboy]

hey grim its me again the lights are great what would you use to clean the salt off of the reef geek reflectors ive noticed the salt leaves marks almost like its taking the shine off te reflectors thanks

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15157382#post15157382 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by gusmanda
how come there aren't any 6000k bulbs recomended? Does everyone hate the yellowish look? They're meant to be the best bulbs for growth are they?

Turns out the Blue Plus has more PAR than any of the yellowish lamps, go figure. Corals use the light all across the range of PAR but they use light in the blue/green and deeper red spectum most efficiently. It is all a matter of personal taste. In a 6 lamp fixture using a 6500K and one of the red hued lamps along with 4 Blue Plus is a nice 14K look but not as much blue as you would think. Using an Aquablue instead of the GE will make it a little more blue but not the tidy bowl 20K look.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15157459#post15157459 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jimmy007
I have a icecap 660 ballast and would like to setup with t-5? What bulb combination do you recomend? This tank will be a mix reef?

Thanks,

Jimmy

3 ATI Blue Plus and 1 UVL Actinic White. Grab an ATI Aquablue as a spare and so you can play if you decide the mix looks too blue but I don't think it will. In either case you want to have a spare lamp cause if one fails ballast no worky.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15157464#post15157464 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ghost427
Hi Grim,

It's time to renew my light bulbs. I'm looking to keep my par up and to add more color. I have a 36" T5X and the tank is 24" deep. I have some sps that are a little pale and a maxima clam. Here is the combo I have now

ATI Blue Plus
UVL Super Actinic
UVL Aquasun
ATI Blue Plus
ATI Aquablue

Is this still the best combo?

Thanks
Phil

Front
ATI Aquablue
ATI Blue Plus
UVL Actinic White
ATI Blue Plus
ATI Blue Plus


It going to be fairly blue and have a lot of PAR, a bit more than you have now but not too much.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15157904#post15157904 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by twodaend
Thanks Grim. Will this give me a mix of good color and growth. I heard lower PAR is for growth which I'm guessing the Actinic White will do. I don't have to keep the 14K look as I do now with the MH Phoenix, however I do want a good balance between growth and look.

The Actinic White has pretty good PAR and also has a lot of red. It is mainly a flavoring lamp like an Actinic but it will get you growth too.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

Re: Re: Re: The usual

Re: Re: Re: The usual

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15157967#post15157967 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by mcfish
Just double checking Mr. Grim, the retro you are suggesting is a VHO such as Reefgeeks sells?

Thank you... Mark

Yep, the 80 watt systems are ran off an Ice Cap ballast so I guess they call them VHO.

 

[brucem]

Hey Grim I am getting away from halides. I have a 30x30x24 cube I am looking to put 8 24w t5's running on ic660. My tank will sps dominated . Could give me some bulb advice. Thanks in advance

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15158019#post15158019 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by louisvilleboy
hey grim its me again the lights are great what would you use to clean the salt off of the reef geek reflectors ive noticed the salt leaves marks almost like its taking the shine off te reflectors thanks

If you can't raise them just clean them often with RO water. Use Windex (not near the tank) if they are really nasty.

 

[jimmy007]

Thanks Grim. I will try it out.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15158044#post15158044 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
3 ATI Blue Plus and 1 UVL Actinic White. Grab an ATI Aquablue as a spare and so you can play if you decide the mix looks too blue but I don't think it will. In either case you want to have a spare lamp cause if one fails ballast no worky.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15158129#post15158129 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by brucem
Hey Grim I am getting away from halides. I have a 30x30x24 cube I am looking to put 8 24w t5's running on ic660. My tank will sps dominated . Could give me some bulb advice. Thanks in advance

Something like

Blue Plus
Fiji Purple
Blue Plus
Aquablue
Blue Plus
Fiji Purple
Blue Plus
Blue Plus

Would probably look preety even and give you a nice color.

 

[brandonb8]

Grim,

I purchased a used tx5 fixture that had some bulb recommendations of yours. I was looking to change it up a little bit but wanted to increase or maintain par.

the current config

1 geismann aquablueplus
1 ati blueplus
1 geismann midday
1 uvl superactinic
1 ati blue plus

I was wanting to do

1 geisman aquablueplus
1 ati blue plus
1 uvl7525
1 ati blue plus
1 ati blue plus


Will this give me a popping color for sps and also good par?


thanks,

Brandon

 

[JRechcygl]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15156024#post15156024 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by klasiksb
Do you have any pics of your tank? Would help give me a good idea to see where your keeping what in the tank.

Planning on a mix, leaning towards SPS, Montis, etc. Figuring lower light in the bottom half and higher for the upper half.

Right now i've got 2x250w HQI (fixture) and either a 175w (in LM3) or 150w HQI (20" Sunpod) as the third. No supplemental lighting. So that's 650-675w.

8x54w at 432w I thought might be good. Even better, a 4x54 and 4x60 would still come in under that MH's at 536w. Much more options to get the right color without adding more watts with supplementals to the MH. (We like the Radium on HQI ballast look)

What do you think? I'm in Janesville.

Here is the PAR numbers...PIC is OLD, taken in Nov shortly after the tank was up and running.

Here is lookin in right side

Looking in Left side

And center

These pics are from the end of Feb of this year... KEEP IN MIND TANK WAS SET UP IN OCT AND STARTED WITH ALL FRAGS!
T5 WILL GROW SPS IN 180S!!
If you want more/better pics I can PM you them or post in another thread to prevent mucking up this thread.
Its amazing how differently these corals look already less than 2 months later. Funny looking at your tank after it grows out huh?

 

[JRechcygl]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15157183#post15157183 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
270 is pretty good if the reflectors are naz-t but I am impressed by your numbers at the ends. I wouldn't put Acros on the ends in the sand but I think Monti's would probably be OK there.

Yeah, ever since I started this retro I have read every article by Riddle, Fatherree, Joshi, Delbeek and Sprung in regards to lighting of tanks and PAR values be them in the ocean or in tanks.

I can tell you it took less PAR to wreak havoc on many of my montis than I thought!!
According to what I have read and observed 200-300uMol/m2/sec seem like a good range for most SPS. Some obviously like more, to an extent. I am just glad I get my SPS 180 using only 640watts!!
Once I get new SLRs and swap out to ATI and KZ lamps I will retest.

 

[Aqua Keepers]

Some of us in the SPS forum are discussing dual photoperiods using T5's and I was hopping for some of you T5 experts to chime in.

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=15159487#post15159487

 

[cham]

I hooked up my ATI powermodule today and I noticed my fans blow inwards. It blows the air across the bulbs and out the sides of the fixture. Thats the way its supposed to be? Seems odd

 

[PDAlber]

Grimm,
Thank you so much for all of the help you provide the Reef Central readers. I know this is a redundant question, but I want to make sure I order the right bulbs. I have a Tek 90 and I just purchased a 6-bulb Tek light. I currently have softies and LPS, but I would like to add a clam and possibly some SPS (particularly a Monte). What bulb combination would you recommend?

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15158272#post15158272 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by brandonb8
Grim,

I purchased a used tx5 fixture that had some bulb recommendations of yours. I was looking to change it up a little bit but wanted to increase or maintain par.

the current config

1 geismann aquablueplus
1 ati blueplus
1 geismann midday
1 uvl superactinic
1 ati blue plus

I was wanting to do

1 geisman aquablueplus
1 ati blue plus
1 uvl7525
1 ati blue plus
1 ati blue plus


Will this give me a popping color for sps and also good par?


thanks,

Brandon

Should look good. Par will be a little more than you have now.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15159778#post15159778 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by cham
I hooked up my ATI powermodule today and I noticed my fans blow inwards. It blows the air across the bulbs and out the sides of the fixture. Thats the way its supposed to be? Seems odd

Yep, install the lamps so the label ends are on the side where the ducts are between the endcaps and reflectors.