phantomg23
New member
getting in early on this one too
The Tank that REEF CENTRAL Built - 450 gal display, 800 gal volume
- Thread starter theReefKing
- Start date
theReefKing
New member
What you can see
What you can see
THE PURPLE BOX is the SKIMMER. As I mentioned earlier, we are looking at the Reef Octopus Super Reef 7000 External Skimmer but I can't tell if that skimmer can be plummed to sit outside of the sump. Which is something I am pretty sure we want to do. The skimmer has to stay upder the tank, so that is the driving limitation here, as we only have 36" of hight to work with.
THE GREEN BOX is the Sump
This is another item I REALLY want to get some good ideas. It is going to be 100% custom so I can do ANYTHING with it. what are all the little details and conveniences that you have or wish you had in your sump One component I know we will work into this space is as large an algee scrubber as we can fit. anyone have a large DIY or manufactured algee scrubber in operation?
What you can see
THE PURPLE BOX is the SKIMMER. As I mentioned earlier, we are looking at the Reef Octopus Super Reef 7000 External Skimmer but I can't tell if that skimmer can be plummed to sit outside of the sump. Which is something I am pretty sure we want to do. The skimmer has to stay upder the tank, so that is the driving limitation here, as we only have 36" of hight to work with.
THE GREEN BOX is the Sump
This is another item I REALLY want to get some good ideas. It is going to be 100% custom so I can do ANYTHING with it. what are all the little details and conveniences that you have or wish you had in your sump One component I know we will work into this space is as large an algee scrubber as we can fit. anyone have a large DIY or manufactured algee scrubber in operation?
theReefKing
New member
Ok. thats enough for now. I have a million more thoughts and Ideas but I don't want to overload with questions, and end up not getting into the finer points. Off to "tank stalk" other threads.
Reefking, I think you stole my idea! I was going to do a build with copious input from the Reef Central community also! But it's all good, because I'm many months away from starting, and now I can learn from your build as well!. 
FYI, while a newbie, I have been seriously dreaming of building a beautiful reef display tank for at least a decade. But I'm also a bit of a perfectionist, and I didn't want to start out with something less than what I wanted (minimum 200g DT), so I have been deferring and deferring for all these years. As it turns out, my build will be about 250 to 350g (the uncertainty owing to the front to back depth of the tank which may change if I add an access door from behind... see below). I too had a semi-custom home built three years ago, and I included an engineered support beam in the floor; multiple GFCIs on separate breakers; a drain and water supply for auto water changes and top offs; and custom in-wall cabinetry with hood to house the finished product. One of the things I've regretted, and maybe you still have time to consider/add is that I didn't include an access door at the back of the tank. This is one of the reasons my build is still several months off. I have been in touch with a contractor to add such an access door to my house, and I'm sure the quoted cost is a multiple of 2 to 3x what it would have cost to include it in the first place (it's an external load bearing wall). :-(
In any event, you asked about the four inlets for the closed loop, and whether this is necessary. When reviewing your schematic (which has some very interesting ideas by the way), I wondered... Why the four inlets? I've been researching closed loops quite a bit, because I want a very clean DT, as it appears you do. I do not think the four inlets are necessary. Typically, people will include more than one inlet if they are worried that the suction feeding the closed loop may suck in critters that venture too close. But four seems unnecessary, especially since all four are housed internal to your overflow (great idea by the way!)
I'll be following along. Good luck!
FYI, while a newbie, I have been seriously dreaming of building a beautiful reef display tank for at least a decade. But I'm also a bit of a perfectionist, and I didn't want to start out with something less than what I wanted (minimum 200g DT), so I have been deferring and deferring for all these years. As it turns out, my build will be about 250 to 350g (the uncertainty owing to the front to back depth of the tank which may change if I add an access door from behind... see below). I too had a semi-custom home built three years ago, and I included an engineered support beam in the floor; multiple GFCIs on separate breakers; a drain and water supply for auto water changes and top offs; and custom in-wall cabinetry with hood to house the finished product. One of the things I've regretted, and maybe you still have time to consider/add is that I didn't include an access door at the back of the tank. This is one of the reasons my build is still several months off. I have been in touch with a contractor to add such an access door to my house, and I'm sure the quoted cost is a multiple of 2 to 3x what it would have cost to include it in the first place (it's an external load bearing wall). :-(
In any event, you asked about the four inlets for the closed loop, and whether this is necessary. When reviewing your schematic (which has some very interesting ideas by the way), I wondered... Why the four inlets? I've been researching closed loops quite a bit, because I want a very clean DT, as it appears you do. I do not think the four inlets are necessary. Typically, people will include more than one inlet if they are worried that the suction feeding the closed loop may suck in critters that venture too close. But four seems unnecessary, especially since all four are housed internal to your overflow (great idea by the way!)
I'll be following along. Good luck!
Last edited:
Saw that you were posting as I wrote my last reply. Regarding a sump, you should take a look at the custom sumps built by Tyler at Elite Aquatics. I've been in touch with him and will be using one of his sumps for sure. There is a thread on reef central that takes a close look at one of his sumps which was designed in conjunction with the RC member, and it is impressive. Has most of the bells and whistles already thought out. Do a search for it. I'll be making some slight modifications on my own build, but nothing too special apart from overall size. The most notable modification would be to include drill outs for multiple heaters attached by compression fittings. If you go to "beananimals bar and grill" on the web, you'll see his well considered rationale for including multiple smaller heaters atached by compression fittings.
Nick
Nick
Sorry, one last thing. Take a look at Paul Whitby's 650g build thread (the replacement build after he had a leak on his previous 650g). He is a TOTM recipient, and knows his stuff. I was originally going to drill closed loop returns through the bottom of my tank as you have, but after seeing his setup, I changed my mind. He built opposing "racetrack" loops (you'll see what I mean if you visit the thread) for his closed loops which reduce the number of holes to be drilled through the tank; provide excellent circulation patterns; many more flow outlets than he would otherwise have if he drilled each individual return (as you are intending); yet everything remains hidden below the substrate and/or incorporated in the aquascape. I've got a couple of additional ideas of my own, but I'll leave it here for now.
Sorry, last last thing! Why the four intakes for the filtration pump? On this too, four is probably not necessary. I'll be using the beananimal silent and safe overflow method, and this method only uses three intakes (one a fully active siphon; one a partially active open channel; and one an emergency). This seems to have all he necessary redundancy yet is also silent.
theReefKing
New member
Thanks for your input. the 4 closed loop inlets were added in the concept for only two reasons, prevent clogs, and because I wanted to have 4 returns. So I thought one in for every out. But less holes in the bottom of the tank could also be a good thing.... maybe I move the split to inside the tank! this would reduce the number of bulkheads AND give the increased redundancy of so many inlets.
Hope you will still share your build with us, I am PRE-subscribing!
theReefKing
New member
Do you have a link to that thread? I will certainly look up Elite! thank you!
theReefKing
New member
YES! thank you. the first addaption to the design for certain. Too many holes in the tank with my current design.
theReefKing
New member
researching this method now.
Anyone have any data regarding the max floow rate of filter socks? I like the idea of having the water rushing into the sock split into 4 parts, but maybe I dont need for overflow pipes to get that result...
SPotter
Active member
Bill...so glad I saw your thread! I am moving to Mt. P in a few weeks and have been looking around for local reefers. I just tore down my 400g system and I am looking to go with a similar sized tank as you. It will be great to have someone in the area that I can chat with. I will be following along to watch this unfold. Sorry if I missed it but who is building your tank?
Here is the link to the thread on the custom sump an RC member designed and was built by Elite Aquatics. Not the cheapest option around, but some great ideas incorporated... you could go the DIY route with some of these ideas if you find the pricing too high.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2276267&highlight=matt+elite+aquatics+sump
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2276267&highlight=matt+elite+aquatics+sump
theReefKing
New member
I live in Mount P also, and grew up in Sumerville, NJ. We played Manasquan in the Football state championship my sophmore year. Small RC!
What neighborhood are you moving to? We have local reefers over to our house all the time so it sounds like you will be visiting soon!
PM me for more detail and my cell, so we can talk or txt.
Any pictures of your tank before the breakdown?
theReefKing
New member
thank you! I learned a lot in just the 5 min I scrolled down the first page! So much information!
SPotter
Active member
That's too funny! I have found that there are a lot of people from NJ in Mt. P already. Looking forward to stopping by.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2
theReefKing
New member
Will post some pictures of current systems tonight.
theReefKing
New member
Check Valves, where do people place them? Each return? Or just one? Is their any benefit to having two in series.?. I am thinking two in series before the split would be best
dave.m
Active member
Check valves tend to fail eventually so not a lot of people use them. You probably only need one just to prevent a large amount of water backflowing into the sump or tank. If you can find them, use the type with the clear barrel so that you can actually see that the flap inside is moving.
Dave.M
Dave.M
Dapg8gt
New member
With the closed loop in mind you can just add two large feed holes 2"+ and all the returns you want.. I saw you posted on dcanderson22's thread that's I believe the route he went I think his are 3" or possibly larger.. As for check valves it is best to just make the sump large enough to hold All the volume of the still tank vs engineering a failure point into the mix.. If it's for the CL simple ball valves and unions will get you full adjustability and access to maintenance.. That's something to consider is plenty of unions to be able to get it apart without cutting..
So in short I'd say ditch the check valves, they fail and reduce flow. just build the sump to be able to hold everything and then some.
So in short I'd say ditch the check valves, they fail and reduce flow. just build the sump to be able to hold everything and then some.
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