The Ultimate DIY Rocks!
- Thread starter Travis L. Stevens
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crackyflipside
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I figured I can help you guys a bit who are complaining that the concrete is too brittle.
When I mix concrete for construction, there are different types of ways to mix it. Putting too much water in the mix takes longer for it to dry and makes the concrete very porous and weak. Adding too much sand into the mix will make the concrete fall apart like sand and the concrete will be very soft.
I don't know an exact ratio, I just go by eye and the physical composition of the mix. You would want a stucco-like consistency for these rocks.
When I am mixing stucco or very thick concrete, I use about 2 parts sand to 1 part mix. Thoroughly mix the DRY ingredients first. Add a tiny amount of water and mix until the water is completely mixed it. It will be slightly together but the majority will still be dry.
There are three major phases in making concrete.
-Dry: It will still have the appearance of sand/dust, add more water.
-Ideal: The concrete now has enough water to have a mud-like consistency, there is visible moisture in the mix. You should be able to push the concrete with a flat tool and when you take the tool out, the concrete should not fill up the hole. In cooking, the term would be 'stiff peaks'.
-Too wet: The concrete is one giant puddle, you try to shape anything and it just returns to its puddle form. Just add more concrete mix.
When I mix concrete for construction, there are different types of ways to mix it. Putting too much water in the mix takes longer for it to dry and makes the concrete very porous and weak. Adding too much sand into the mix will make the concrete fall apart like sand and the concrete will be very soft.
I don't know an exact ratio, I just go by eye and the physical composition of the mix. You would want a stucco-like consistency for these rocks.
When I am mixing stucco or very thick concrete, I use about 2 parts sand to 1 part mix. Thoroughly mix the DRY ingredients first. Add a tiny amount of water and mix until the water is completely mixed it. It will be slightly together but the majority will still be dry.
There are three major phases in making concrete.
-Dry: It will still have the appearance of sand/dust, add more water.
-Ideal: The concrete now has enough water to have a mud-like consistency, there is visible moisture in the mix. You should be able to push the concrete with a flat tool and when you take the tool out, the concrete should not fill up the hole. In cooking, the term would be 'stiff peaks'.
-Too wet: The concrete is one giant puddle, you try to shape anything and it just returns to its puddle form. Just add more concrete mix.
Travis L. Stevens
New member
That's my goal. I haven't gotten around to it yet though. I've been a little financially lacking because of the summer heat, but I plan on experimenting with that.
I don't see why not. The only issue I can see is bouyancy, but a little more cement and silicon would take care of that.
The way I did it was to make a big block (6") thick of styro with the same dimensions of the tank. I then cut it into manageble sizes and went to town with 'a blow torch and a pair of pliers'. Well not exactly, a blow torch and dry wall saw - to get the shapes I wanted. Needless to say, this in an outside project.
I used quickcrete and the quickcrete dies without any problems in my cichlid tank. Tropheus can be pretty touchy, so it must have been safe.
It looked pretty good in the tank and I was able to remove it later on. That part was a little more difficult, but doable.
Good luck, I would do it again but I'm having enough trouble mastering these rocks!
breedingroom
New member
Find a piece of rock you like....and put it on top of that styrofaom from the florist the sqooshy green kind....that is kind of soft......push and press the rock into it.....take it out and there is your form.........noe fill that form with diy cement rock mixture......you can also do tha with wet sand....ie sand casting.......damoen the sand then puch an original rock in it to get your form.
Rhodophyta
New member
there are several types of product that you paint or dip onto a rock. Once they cure, you peel them off and they create a mold for that rock. Often they are reuseable and you can make many copies. An older method uses sand mixed with oatmeal and molasses. The organic additives hold the sand together so that much more detail will be preserved in the casting, plus act as a releaser so that no sand gets incorporated into the casting.
Rhodophyta
New member
Next week, Friday night, Aug. 18, I'm presenting an aragocrete workshop at the Lorain County aquarium club meeting. Anyone who is in the area would be greatly appreciated if they could help out, either by mentoring some first-timers as they create some aragocrete structures, or by coming up with some ideas for the presentation, or by donating some supplies.
CoolUsername
New member
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7895714#post7895714 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Travis L. Stevens
Yes it is. I would only use PVC though. After all, it's cheap and you can get a lot of it. I guess you could cut up your mother's tupperware, but I don't think she would like it
Acrylic rods are very inexpensive and would work as well.
Re: molding rocks,
I've tried most every way to mold caves and free forms and still find the quickest and most dependable is molding on damp sand, I make caves just rounding up the internal size I want, and mold free forms over damp sand spread on a sheet of plywood, doing this you dont get that flat edge of the caves or the flat plates,
you can make a rough surface to the sand, sometimes I will lay ziti or inverted pcs of shell pasta in the pcs, you get the shell impression molded, thick pcs often get straws through into the sand, they pull easily out of the dry concrete, and good sized crystals of salt will make a hole looking like a barnacle,
very easy to make very natural looking rock thats hard to tell from real corals. I have tried at times dripping various dyes over parts of the rocks but find its more work then necessary and cultured coraline algae looks much better.
I have never had any problems with using oyster shell, for me its cured no differently then crushed coral. Maybe its the proportions in the mix. one part cement, one to two parts oyster shelf, one to two parts sand, and occasionaly some rock salt crystals put in place.
I've tried most every way to mold caves and free forms and still find the quickest and most dependable is molding on damp sand, I make caves just rounding up the internal size I want, and mold free forms over damp sand spread on a sheet of plywood, doing this you dont get that flat edge of the caves or the flat plates,
you can make a rough surface to the sand, sometimes I will lay ziti or inverted pcs of shell pasta in the pcs, you get the shell impression molded, thick pcs often get straws through into the sand, they pull easily out of the dry concrete, and good sized crystals of salt will make a hole looking like a barnacle,
very easy to make very natural looking rock thats hard to tell from real corals. I have tried at times dripping various dyes over parts of the rocks but find its more work then necessary and cultured coraline algae looks much better.
I have never had any problems with using oyster shell, for me its cured no differently then crushed coral. Maybe its the proportions in the mix. one part cement, one to two parts oyster shelf, one to two parts sand, and occasionaly some rock salt crystals put in place.
newreefbishop
Premium Member
Im about to attempt my first batch of DIY rock. I have some questions concerning the "salt" in the ingredients. Is Morton White Crystal Solar Salt ok to use, or the salt that you use for water softners? Reason being I was thinking it would be a little easier to cure it than if I used regular rock salt. Anyway your advice would be helpful.
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