The Ultimate DIY Rocks!
- Thread starter Travis L. Stevens
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Insane Reefer
New member
If the crumbles bother you, smear/paint/dab a layer of no salt mix after it sets up, being careful to leave plenty of porous areas clean...
Acts like epoxy to bind the surface...
Acts like epoxy to bind the surface...
Abalone joe
New member
Savatage
Thanks for the info, It helps to put my mind at ease.
Thanks for the info, It helps to put my mind at ease.
Insane Reefer
New member
Hey Joe,
You tested the steel wool with a magnet yet?
You tested the steel wool with a magnet yet?
Rhodophyta
New member
Rust is not magnetic, so unless there are some unrusted bits, it wouldn't prove much. The observation he made that the substance is lighter than the oyster shell and settles out on top of it suggests that it is not rusted steel wool, which even totally rusted would still be heavier than oyster shell. I looked at my R. mangle photos to see if any show the wirey roots. No. They are like holdfasts on ivy and would be stuck to the oyster shells before harvesting and grinding.
Insane Reefer
New member
If there is any iron content left, it will at least wiggle - magnets will stick to rusty metal 
Abalone joe
New member
The steel wool like stuff was not rusted at the time I washed the shell. The rusting occured during the rocks fresh water curing period. None of it had a rust color except what I noticed as pieces I missed during my hand screening ordeal. The second bag I bought about 8 or 9 months later had the same stuff. At this point, having learned a bit, I used a shallow container. Shaking it back and forth in a vibrating fashion (While dry), pieces already near the top would work their way up and are then exposed. You always have to turn and mix the shell mix to bring more closer to the surface to be exposed.
Water helps but also mitigates ease of wool finding due to the unbelievable amount of dust, dirt, and sediment mixed in with the shell. That's ok, After seeing that mess I'm not in a hurry to put it in my tank without a thorough washing. I would also like to say, I don't think she steel wool should thought of as heavy. It needs to be remembered that while made of Iron, steel wool's overall density is very low due to the way it is spun.
The first batch of rocks, The ones I saw the bits of rust on and probably in, Bucket cured for about 8 months. I had noticed the rust earlier than the 8 months but haven't been able to bring myself to throw them away with all the time and effort I had put into them. I had thought I got all the wool peices out but later dicovered I had missed them. The rocks now sit in a friends slow/shallow creek. When I pull them, The creek followup cure to the 8 months will have been an additional 2- 2&1/2 months. If there not done by then somebody please just shoot me.
The second batch, For which I purchased the second bag, Will go staight in the creek for curing. I'll probably start soaking them around july 1st and pull them around october 1st.
Just a couple of educational notes: Even a slow moving stream has a huge volume of water exchange compared to anything we could hope to provide in the home. This doesn't even count issues of water waste or water cost (which does add up). Also; I made a discovery last late fall. I had been bucket curing indoors, changing the water 1 or 2 times a week. I had decided my indoor space needed not be cluttered by yet another attractive part of my hobby (rock buckets). So I moved the to the porch to cure for a few weeks. After testing the water, They were ready! I brought them indoors, flushed the water, and tested them again the next day. The Ph was back off the meters. What I learned; COLD water severely slows the carbonates leaching out of the rocks. Another thing to be aware of is that vinager is a compleate waste of time. Trust me, I wasted to much time, effort, and vinegar on the approach.
As in following the Idea of this thread; At least conceptually, In the next batch I am going to be using the salt to increase internal void spaces within the rock. With the salt I will be using a mix of cement Type I-II and the oyster shell. Also; just to make my desciption compleate, Many of the rocks will contain imbedded peices of PVC. This is so I'll be able (hopefully) to build rock forms in a lego like way.
Insane Reefer
Unfortunately, after searching thru my more maticulasly cleaned oyster shell, I haven't been able to find any remnant peices of the wool stuff. Does't mean there's none there, just that I haven't been able to find it. I wish I had saved some.
Water helps but also mitigates ease of wool finding due to the unbelievable amount of dust, dirt, and sediment mixed in with the shell. That's ok, After seeing that mess I'm not in a hurry to put it in my tank without a thorough washing. I would also like to say, I don't think she steel wool should thought of as heavy. It needs to be remembered that while made of Iron, steel wool's overall density is very low due to the way it is spun.
The first batch of rocks, The ones I saw the bits of rust on and probably in, Bucket cured for about 8 months. I had noticed the rust earlier than the 8 months but haven't been able to bring myself to throw them away with all the time and effort I had put into them. I had thought I got all the wool peices out but later dicovered I had missed them. The rocks now sit in a friends slow/shallow creek. When I pull them, The creek followup cure to the 8 months will have been an additional 2- 2&1/2 months. If there not done by then somebody please just shoot me.
The second batch, For which I purchased the second bag, Will go staight in the creek for curing. I'll probably start soaking them around july 1st and pull them around october 1st.
Just a couple of educational notes: Even a slow moving stream has a huge volume of water exchange compared to anything we could hope to provide in the home. This doesn't even count issues of water waste or water cost (which does add up). Also; I made a discovery last late fall. I had been bucket curing indoors, changing the water 1 or 2 times a week. I had decided my indoor space needed not be cluttered by yet another attractive part of my hobby (rock buckets). So I moved the to the porch to cure for a few weeks. After testing the water, They were ready! I brought them indoors, flushed the water, and tested them again the next day. The Ph was back off the meters. What I learned; COLD water severely slows the carbonates leaching out of the rocks. Another thing to be aware of is that vinager is a compleate waste of time. Trust me, I wasted to much time, effort, and vinegar on the approach.
As in following the Idea of this thread; At least conceptually, In the next batch I am going to be using the salt to increase internal void spaces within the rock. With the salt I will be using a mix of cement Type I-II and the oyster shell. Also; just to make my desciption compleate, Many of the rocks will contain imbedded peices of PVC. This is so I'll be able (hopefully) to build rock forms in a lego like way.
Insane Reefer
Unfortunately, after searching thru my more maticulasly cleaned oyster shell, I haven't been able to find any remnant peices of the wool stuff. Does't mean there's none there, just that I haven't been able to find it. I wish I had saved some.
Insane Reefer
New member
I had posted earlier in the thread about possibly boiling rock to speed kure; wonder if I might be on to something? lol
Maybe put a heater in the kuring tub?
Well, if you do find some, or purchase a new bag, keep us posted - if you tested it with a magnet before cleaning, it should react
I may have to shun oyster shell for any future chickens...
Maybe put a heater in the kuring tub?
Well, if you do find some, or purchase a new bag, keep us posted - if you tested it with a magnet before cleaning, it should react
I may have to shun oyster shell for any future chickens...
Abalone joe
New member
With regaurd to warming the curing tub with a heater; I doubt it would wor very well without a continual exchange of water. As for boiling; I hate to say it may work but maybe it wood. If you boil water the carbonates precipitate out. That's why you end up with lime deposits accumulate in kettles. Also consider that carbonate hardness is known as temporary hardness specifically because of this fact.
Now, I'm not sure; but the hot water may increase the leaching rate. If it does and then quikly precipitates; Excellent! This may increase the overall process but still be leave you boiling rocks for days or weeks. Too much work if you ask me.
Maybe if you boil them for a while all the carbonates would kind of precipitate in place. That would be very quike and more than excellent! Whatever you do, I wouldn't use the pot for food afterword.
If you try this method keep detailed records and post, post, post.
Now, I'm not sure; but the hot water may increase the leaching rate. If it does and then quikly precipitates; Excellent! This may increase the overall process but still be leave you boiling rocks for days or weeks. Too much work if you ask me.
Maybe if you boil them for a while all the carbonates would kind of precipitate in place. That would be very quike and more than excellent! Whatever you do, I wouldn't use the pot for food afterword.
If you try this method keep detailed records and post, post, post.
Insane Reefer
New member
I really don't know how to go about something like running an experiement like this, lol.
More than willing to test it out, but would need some idea's on how to go about something like this, I'll gladly post results...
Maybe a hardness test kit from the pool section at WallyWorld? Boil for several hours each day for several days, then dump them in the kuring tub?
Some input needed here.
I had mentioned in the forementioned post, I suggested doing this outside on either a electric burner or grill, and of course not using a pot you liked
More than willing to test it out, but would need some idea's on how to go about something like this, I'll gladly post results...
Maybe a hardness test kit from the pool section at WallyWorld? Boil for several hours each day for several days, then dump them in the kuring tub?
Some input needed here.
I had mentioned in the forementioned post, I suggested doing this outside on either a electric burner or grill, and of course not using a pot you liked
I'm looking for an opinion on an idea that in on and off the subject. I just want to make sure we don't get off the subject here.
When we make water with our RO/DI units, I know the waste water is higher in TDS readings that what the original water is from our faucet. What are your ideas on using the waste water form some of the water changes when Kuring out the rock.
It is a way to help save on water consumption, but I think the higher TDS could be a problem. I'm just looking for some opinions.
When we make water with our RO/DI units, I know the waste water is higher in TDS readings that what the original water is from our faucet. What are your ideas on using the waste water form some of the water changes when Kuring out the rock.
It is a way to help save on water consumption, but I think the higher TDS could be a problem. I'm just looking for some opinions.
kraze3
New member
I think the pool kit may work. Ph kit of course also.
Maybe make a few rocks out of the same batch. Boil one or two, leave one or two to kure regularly in a seperate tub, and if you have access maybe put one in a stream or in the back of a toilet for constant water change. Monitor all levels on each rock. Just basic ideas for a controlled expirement but you gotta start somewhere. Im interested in results if you do give it a go.
Maybe make a few rocks out of the same batch. Boil one or two, leave one or two to kure regularly in a seperate tub, and if you have access maybe put one in a stream or in the back of a toilet for constant water change. Monitor all levels on each rock. Just basic ideas for a controlled expirement but you gotta start somewhere. Im interested in results if you do give it a go.
Insane Reefer
New member
I had thought along the same lines, however I thought perhaps running a return line to a water softener might work in some way...
:bigeyes:
Insane Reefer
New member
I think pool Quick-Strips have both hardness and pH as well as a few other things like chlorine and bromide or some such, and with the start of pool season, kits should be fairly fresh, or I'd hope anyway...
Good idea - will need to start from scratch, with fresh rock...
Covey
New member
I've got half my batch in a tub that I change daily and half in a tub that my RO waste water runs thru. I've got a sorry slow 10GPD RO so since my tank upgrade the RO runs almost constantily.
At a month now if I take a rock out of each tub and let them sit over night in new water then test the pH the waste water soaked rock pH is SLIGHTILY lower than the conventional cure rock like in the neighborhood of .3 to .4 pH. It may save you a week or so in the cure but not the magic bullet you guys are looking for.
LOL. I was not looking for a magic bullet Covey. I think my largest concern is, what kind of negative effects would using the, waste water, from the RO/DI, have?
I don't want the new rocks to soak up any bad elements. I do suppose we could look at the fact that everyone's TDS is different, depending on where they are located. Also, we are already using the crappy city water for the Kure time. And that water has Chlorine, Nitrates, Phos, etc. What can a little extra TDS hurt. LOL.
I don't want the new rocks to soak up any bad elements. I do suppose we could look at the fact that everyone's TDS is different, depending on where they are located. Also, we are already using the crappy city water for the Kure time. And that water has Chlorine, Nitrates, Phos, etc. What can a little extra TDS hurt. LOL.
Reefbound1
New member
Hey all, I just stopped at my local Lowes and picked up the salt and portland but I have a question.
The portland I have is type 1 & 2,does this make a differance? Nobody in my vicinity has eighter or , just type 1 & 2.
The portland I have is type 1 & 2,does this make a differance? Nobody in my vicinity has eighter or , just type 1 & 2.
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