Travis L. Stevens
Active member
I've been using LaFarge Portland Cement Type 1 that I find at the Lowe's in Stillwater, OK
The Ultimate DIY Rocks!
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JOSEPHLB
New member
I've read through the other split portion of this thead, and I've noticed a few questions concerning coloring of the rocks.
I didn't see this product mentioned, Integral Colors. Its a concrete pigment sold from Direct Colors, Inc. out of Shawnee, Oklahoma. Here is the product: http://www.directcolors.com/concrete_integral.htm
Here is the MSDS info: http://www.directcolors.com/msds_documents/integralmsds.pdf
Has anyone heard of this stuff and/or tried it?
I didn't see this product mentioned, Integral Colors. Its a concrete pigment sold from Direct Colors, Inc. out of Shawnee, Oklahoma. Here is the product: http://www.directcolors.com/concrete_integral.htm
Here is the MSDS info: http://www.directcolors.com/msds_documents/integralmsds.pdf
Has anyone heard of this stuff and/or tried it?
Travis L. Stevens
Active member
Haven't heard of it or tried it. Maybe I should take a long drive down to Shawnee to check it out 
BADBOYGATOR
New member
ok after reading this post and the split (part one ) i think im geting the idea of DIY rocks just for the record (and if im wrong im sure some one will let the noob know )
i want to mix the cement on the dry side add softner salt to the mix and let it dry
cure it for a few weeks and then add it to my tank
now questions (1) do i want to break up the salt when adding it to the mix?
(2) do i want to form it in salt or sand or does it matter?
(3) when cureing am i just watching he Ph? or should i be watching other things as well?
(4) any thing i missed ?:strooper:
i want to mix the cement on the dry side add softner salt to the mix and let it dry
cure it for a few weeks and then add it to my tank
now questions (1) do i want to break up the salt when adding it to the mix?
(2) do i want to form it in salt or sand or does it matter?
(3) when cureing am i just watching he Ph? or should i be watching other things as well?
(4) any thing i missed ?:strooper:
I just tried to make some rock... How big are the crystals of salt you guys are using? The bag i got has huge crystals, far to big to be using for rocks. Is everyone having this problem and just breaking it up or is what yall are buying smaller? (my crystals are about 1" diameter ave)
I noticed that my rocks would crumble pretty easily when handled after a couple days. Since then, I've been adding a top coat of cement with no salt mixed in. I leave a few areas unpatched so some of the surface will be porous. Hopefully this will keep the entire rock from crumbling, while leaving the inside of the rock nice and porous.
I got a mixed bag of sizes. Some are easily 1" long. I use those to form caves and other details. If your whole bag is 1" pieces, you could either smash them into smaller pieces, or go buy a different type of salt. Buying a new bag will save you lots of grief.
I got a mixed bag of sizes. Some are easily 1" long. I use those to form caves and other details. If your whole bag is 1" pieces, you could either smash them into smaller pieces, or go buy a different type of salt. Buying a new bag will save you lots of grief.
New photos:
The top layer broke in four when I tried lifting it prematurely. I used cement to reattach two pieces, and left the other two pieces broken for ease of assembly.
I've since added a third layer, but it needs more work... I've also started a new set of rocks for my 6g nano. I'm going to move my Mantis shrimp back in there once the tank is revamped with the new rock and plumbing.
I'm still a bit worried that my rock will crumble, or that the porous internal parts won't leech out their salt, etc, due to the cement top coat.
The top layer broke in four when I tried lifting it prematurely. I used cement to reattach two pieces, and left the other two pieces broken for ease of assembly.
I've since added a third layer, but it needs more work... I've also started a new set of rocks for my 6g nano. I'm going to move my Mantis shrimp back in there once the tank is revamped with the new rock and plumbing.
I'm still a bit worried that my rock will crumble, or that the porous internal parts won't leech out their salt, etc, due to the cement top coat.
tszetela
Reefer
Flusher, very good idea to build the mock-up of the tank.
Just an FYI, Kuring with CO2 and few water changes seem to take longer that frequent water changes. I have been running 10 bubbles a second in to an old whisper powerhead (think I have been in the hobby a long time?!!) and doing a water change with RO water once a week. And after 2 months when I pull the CO2 and let the rock sit over night the Ph still goes up to over 9. So I am now going to do a water change every other night in addition to the CO2. Granted this is a casual observation with no control group and I do think I have a larger rock to water ratio than I would prefer.
Not to mention the its a PITA of having to disconnect the CO2 tank and carry it to the other side of the basement when ever I want to use the kegerator!!!
Just an FYI, Kuring with CO2 and few water changes seem to take longer that frequent water changes. I have been running 10 bubbles a second in to an old whisper powerhead (think I have been in the hobby a long time?!!) and doing a water change with RO water once a week. And after 2 months when I pull the CO2 and let the rock sit over night the Ph still goes up to over 9. So I am now going to do a water change every other night in addition to the CO2. Granted this is a casual observation with no control group and I do think I have a larger rock to water ratio than I would prefer.
Not to mention the its a PITA of having to disconnect the CO2 tank and carry it to the other side of the basement when ever I want to use the kegerator!!!
Travis L. Stevens
Active member
I mix the salt and the cement together thuroughly before adding water. Then I add the water. If it gets too wet (which it usually does), I just add more cement.
Well, it could be longer than a few weeks, but you got the idea
I don't, but my salt crystals are smaller than what some have been experiencing. My largest crystals are about 0.5" in diameter. Most are in the 0.25"-0.5" range
It's up to you. A salt mold yields a textured surface free of particles. A sand mold creates a sanded surface with little texture. Either one works.
Just the pH and make sure to do lots of water changes
You missed to have fun no matter what happens to the rock. If you are an unlucky person and have it crumble, try again. Just make sure the original mixture is properly hydrated and thuroughly mixed.
CapnKick
New member
I'm laughing at myself...after reading this entire thread thoroughly and monitoring closely, I mixed and formed my first batch of rock. I set it to dry on aluminum foil (I don't mind the flat bottom for my particular application), and noticed the foil melted to the rock (is that right? maybe "stuck" is the word)! Anyways, after a month of curing, the foil still won't come off. Since I'm not crazy about the shape of my first batch, I think I'm going to toss it and start a second batch, this time using sheet pans.
Just a word for the wise...
Just a word for the wise...
Wont it just stick to the sheet pans too? I havent done that but i would only imagine... The reason people are using the sand and rock is because it will stick to them, but they can easily pick it up and the salt will evaporate or the sand will just flake off or be there (not sure, i didnt use sand) Maybe you should just consider sand since you dont care about the flat bottom and you wont be risking your time in the rock and the cookie sheet as well? Just a thought but im sure i will be corrected by one of these !Q of 150 guys lol
Travis L. Stevens
Active member
It doesn't stick to the sheet pans. If you use Wax Paper, make sure that you have the wax side up. I made the mistake of the wax side down, and it stuck to the rocks.
FWIW, many people dose Aluminum in their reefs. You might want to pry around for some information on it and see if it something that you would like to do
FWIW, many people dose Aluminum in their reefs. You might want to pry around for some information on it and see if it something that you would like to do
Covey
New member
Aluminium is a toxic metal and souldn't be added to a reef aquarium.
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/july2003/chem.htm
You need to get that out of the rock before you use it.
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/july2003/chem.htm
You need to get that out of the rock before you use it.
Rhodophyta
New member
Yes, at aragocrete workshops an accelerator is a good idea since the rocks generally would have to be transported home within hours. If you are making the rocks at home outside in cold weather, it could be useful too but I haven't used it that way yet.
A latex fortifier is something I've tried the last couple times and it is now an essential IMO. You get very little crumbling and reduced excess alkalinity to neutralize or to leach away.
Travis L. Stevens
Active member
Interesting. Tell us more about that, Red Algae
Rhodophyta
New member
I'm sure there are other brands, but I've tried this one.<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8442899#post8442899 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Travis L. Stevens
Interesting. Tell us more about that, Red Algae
http://www.packagepavement.com/concrete_addons.html
It seems like you can make lighter thinner rocks with finer surface detail by adding this, and the pH neutralization time is much better. I put about 50# in a 100 gallons of rainwater this summer and it was useable within two weeks. The fw plants and algae in the half filled 175 vat may have had some helpful effect, maybe.
Travis L. Stevens
Active member
Cool. How much does it run in your area, and how much rock does it help make?
George Grogan
New member
WOW.....43 pages!! What a read!!! :eek2:
I am inspired, and will be at Home Depot when they open tomorrow!!
Thanks to all for your experiments and postings! :thumbsup:
I am inspired, and will be at Home Depot when they open tomorrow!!
Thanks to all for your experiments and postings! :thumbsup:
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