The Ultimate DIY Rocks!

Status
Not open for further replies.
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8525886#post8525886 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by blakeoe
If you add new rocks to a batch that has been soaking for a while will the old rocks still be ready before the new or will they be ready at the same time?

I think it would throw your pH readings off if you went to test it, since the new rocks will be leaching more than your "almost kured" rock.
 
true. but im really just trying to figure out if it will prolong the old rocks from being ready. i can just soak a few pieces in a seperate bucket over night to test it. I plan on making another batch and it would be really inconvenient to have another huge container in the yard. but i also don't want to start the wait time over.
 
anyone heard of thorite cement? I saw a guy using it who claims it dries in 6 hours and can be put in the tank shortly after.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8556434#post8556434 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by blakeoe
anyone heard of thorite cement? I saw a guy using it who claims it dries in 6 hours and can be put in the tank shortly after.

http://www.thoroproducts.com/pdf_appl/appl_thorite.pdf

http://www.damtitewaterproofing.com/products/product.php?colName=4071

http://www.minerals.net/mineral/silicate/neso/zircon/thorite.htm

I'm sure there is no connection between Thorite the brand name and thorite the mineral. But I have both in the URLS and a similar concrete product to Thorite.
 
after 10 agonizing weeks of waiting

after 10 agonizing weeks of waiting

Here are pics of my rocks if anybody cares. :D They consist of 1:2:1 sand:rock salt:portland cement respectively. It took them 10 weeks to cure, but I did not realize until after the 6th week that south florida tap water has a pH out of range of my test kit. I did not start adding vinegar to the water until after 6 weeks.

<a href="http://photobucket.com/" target="_blank"><img src="http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q112/Syford/singlepolyp.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucke<a href="http://photobucket.com/" target="_blank"><img src="http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q112/Syford/DIYrock.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting"></a>t - Video and Image Hosting"></a><a href="http://photobucket.com/" target="_blank"><img src="http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q112/Syford/DIYrock2.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting"></a>
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8557466#post8557466 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Rhodophyta
http://www.thoroproducts.com/pdf_appl/appl_thorite.pdf

http://www.damtitewaterproofing.com/products/product.php?colName=4071

http://www.minerals.net/mineral/silicate/neso/zircon/thorite.htm

I'm sure there is no connection between Thorite the brand name and thorite the mineral. But I have both in the URLS and a similar concrete product to Thorite.
Have you ever used it? Do you know if it raises the PH like regular cement?
 
I haven't used thorite, but did use hydraulic cement (I think it was the quikrete water stop at HD), which I believe thorite is just a type of. After waiting 2 days, and no kuring period, it didn't seem to raise pH, although I only used a single rock (maybe ~5 lbs) in a 150 gal vol system. After a week, I ended up taking out the rock since I didn't need it for it's originally intended purpose.

I would probably use it again for future projects, but would really like to confirm whether the elevated levels of aluminates (and of any other additives) would be safe in a reef tank setting.
 
EQCM2B, the only reason why I added vinegar to the water is because the pH of my tap water is already off the charts (past 8.8). I couldn't tell if the rocks raised the pH unless i lowered it with vinegar first. As for expediting the curing process, I don't know if vinegar does or not.
 
Ok.. here are the results of my DIY rock... currently been kuring for almost 3 weeks now.

DIYRock2.jpg


DIYRock1.jpg
 
Did you use dye to make get the different colors or was it different cement? (or maybe my monitor is just screwed) :D
 
I've been away. Since I've been gone, Checking back periodically, I've seen picture after picture of dry homemade rock with additive after additive. This is nice but I think it's report card day. Everyone who has been posting should take pictures of the tanks currently setup using homemade rock. Along with your pics, Please describe your rock's formulation & cure method/type. What percentage of homemade rock is being used in the pictured tanks. Algea history of the tanks and anything else of note. We can talk about making rock all day but the proof is in the using.
 
JOSEPHLB your rocks look awesome!!! Do you know if there is any potential risk with using the dye??? If not I'd do all of mine that way....
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8615697#post8615697 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Holmez221b
JOSEPHLB your rocks look awesome!!! Do you know if there is any potential risk with using the dye??? If not I'd do all of mine that way....

From what I've gathered on this site and various other web sources, iron oxide based dyes should poise no risk. Iron Oxide is nothing more than good ole fashion "Rust".

Thats the only knowledge and experience I have in the matter, since I've never used DIY rock until now. My rocks have currently been kuring for almost three weeks now. The photo I posted above is all I have left after I selected through the bunch that I made. I had more, but I tossed out some that didn't come out right.
I have two 18g Rubbermaid totes with a powerhead in each tote circulaiting the water. The first two weeks, I did a water change ever other day. The water constantly had a white film on the top. Since I'm only doing a water change every week. I've noticed the white film building up on top doesn't happen so often, and takes a few days. I'm going to assume that is a good sign.
I'm guessing another 3 weeks (minimum) and these should be good to go.
 
Here is a place that you can find medicine capsules, different sizes, different quantities, different materials. Apparently capsules are sized like wire, with the larger capsules being the smaller number. This particular site has from size 4 to size 000. This gives you an idea of the sizes.

israelnajar posted
Hey guys I just finished reading 40 pages and decided to give it a try. While I was mixing my first batch I thought how about empty pill capsules if you can get a source without purchasing tylonal and emptying the contents. And during the kuring process how about putting some CLR in the water to help with the lime dissolution. Anyway great thread.
 
I am going to start working on a 20L crab tank and was thinking on having a rock back wall. Has anyone tried to form the cement on to egg crate diffuser for support? I want the panels to be fairly thin yet lighter in weight.
 
dyc, on one of the first pages of this half of the thread there is a link to another thread that shows how to make a cement wall. Basically you start with regular foam from a craft store and silicone that to the back. Then start with a runny consistency of cement and paint the foam, allow to dry. Keep doing this until your foam is hard and then you can use a thicker consistency to form the wall and make shapes.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top