The Ultimate DIY Rocks!

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I made these pilars:

rinsed.jpg


Here's how:
placed 12" long 1 1/2 pvc in a bucket and filled around them with salt

prep.jpg


filled with 2:1 salt:cement mixture (a little on the wet side for easier flowing)

poured.jpg


then removed the pvc by slowly lifting and twisting. after the first one, I decided to continue to pour as I removed to make up for the lateral flow

curing.jpg


I think they turned out quite well and was suprised that they actually stand up on their own. Now to let them soak :cool:
 
I added three cups crushed oyster shells, three cups cement and one cup water...And the rocks aren't staying together

Now I bought a small bag of ready mix cement...It has rocks in it already is this going to be ok? I don't know if this is going to be strong enough...

I bought white cement that you use to cover outside block walls and it has alot of fiberglass fibers in it so I decided to not use it...The stuff was $17 a bag....
Can anyone help?

My mix dosn't look as grey as everyone's either...I am about to give up on this...I have spent $40 already...
 
if its just falling apart you might have it to dry. Add more water untill it starts to clump up when you squeeze it.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8993353#post8993353 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by hesstondc

Now I bought a small bag of ready mix cement...It has rocks in it already is this going to be ok? I don't know if this is going to be strong enough...

You don't wanna use the stuff with the rocks or the fiberglass. This is what you wanna use
P1010002.jpg
 
Is there really any truth to the idea that curing the rock in RO water is better than tap water with regards to algae growth? I know a lot of people cure their rock in tap water. RO/DI water use during this process just seems ridiculous to me because you are actually using a heck of a lot more water than if you used tap water.
 
It's all going to grow algae. Some think that RO water will not add any other elements to the mix, but I think the impact is going to be about the same either way - your going to grow algae; unless you can wait a year or two for the readily used nutrients to be leeched away and diligently change water.

I really like the pillar thing, CMT. If you want to go for the more natural look, you can now add more cement to the structure. If you use a box, and lay in a bed of salt, you can easily turn those from perfect cylinders to blobby/lumpy more natural forms.
Good job though!
 
so, im ready to do a second batch, from what i've read, i still can't get the general recipe for the rocks, can anyone inform me please?


my first batch was made about a year ago, gonna be needing some more rock soon. the recipe i used was 1 part portland cement to 4 parts crushed oyster shells.

can i use that or no?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8999959#post8999959 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Insane Reefer
It's all going to grow algae. Some think that RO water will not add any other elements to the mix, but I think the impact is going to be about the same either way - your going to grow algae; unless you can wait a year or two for the readily used nutrients to be leeched away and diligently change water.

Whether you grow algae or not later is very relative! Trust me, if I want to grow algae, I'll grow algae!

And who started this idea that the DIY rocks are going to leach nutrients or phosphate!!!?!

I'm soaking them in RO/DI (The DI is the important part) to remove any silicate and to minimize the pH swing. What Phosphate?!?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9003390#post9003390 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by coryjac0b
so, im ready to do a second batch, from what i've read, i still can't get the general recipe for the rocks, can anyone inform me please?


my first batch was made about a year ago, gonna be needing some more rock soon. the recipe i used was 1 part portland cement to 4 parts crushed oyster shells.

can i use that or no?

The general mix is 2.5 or 3 parts salt to one part cement
 
Icefire, that is what I used...I have a whole stiniking bag of it that I can't use now....It has little pieces of fiberglass in it. Each one is about an inch long and it make the rock look hairy....Plus there is no way that stuff will ever stay in the rock so you will find it floating around the tank I bet....Like dog hair....
 
hey guys
i need to ask why my rock is splitting and turning to mush
i used bsb recipe #3
this morning before the fish woke up i needed to move a rock that looks like it shifted and it practicly desintegrated in my hand
i cured it for 2 months changing the fresh water out every other day
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9008148#post9008148 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by tankslave
Whether you grow algae or not later is very relative! Trust me, if I want to grow algae, I'll grow algae!

And who started this idea that the DIY rocks are going to leach nutrients or phosphate!!!?!

I'm soaking them in RO/DI (The DI is the important part) to remove any silicate and to minimize the pH swing. What Phosphate?!?

Number one, you do realize that the chemical processes that create hardened cement, do not stop just because you drop the rock in water, be it RO/DI or not, don't you? RO/DI is not a magical solution - all it is going to do is make sure you aren't adding anything else bad to the stew while you kure, such as the phosphates and all the other stuff found in most potable and groundwater. Cement has been found to still be making a chemical reaction for something like 100 years. 100 years. Chemical reactions making that cement harder and harder, and Nothing you or I can do can stop it. Period. That's why if you have ever tried to remove a very old cement pad or the like and it seemed like it was made of iron - its been "curing" all these years.

Number three, you also realize that there are a lot of chemicals/elements that are leeched off by cement that plant life thrives on, such as lime. Is phosphate one of those? I don't know, never said it was (though I do believe that chicken feed crushed oyster shell is cleaned by chemical process and thereby sucks up some of the phosphates in the cleaning solution - which is why I don't use CO in my mix), but phosphates are only one thing that may or may not be leeched.

So, assuming our rock is still "Actively" curing, even though we have kured it, and knowing that plant life loves the very things we are trying to kure out it, which for at least a while is going to still be produced by the "fresh" cement, why on earth would you think that you aren't going to grow a bumper crop of algae?
Or cop such an outraged attitude about it?

There is a reason that the manufacturers of man made rock kure their rock for so long (Garf claims a year) before dumping it for seeding (another 6 months) - it gives the rocks time to form a layer that is nutrient reduced, and less likely to produce unwanted algae blooms when first introduced to the aquarium...

PS - a curious streak in my prompted a quick google search. And while I can't say "Cement contains phosphates", I can say that the number of states in the US that number cement in their states trade goods/resources, also list limestone and phoshates as trade goods. I live in an area where cement and limestone are manufactured and mined - the two are always on the same acreage - if this is the case with phosphate mining, you'd almost have to assume that there are going to be some phosphates in the cement manufactured at these locales.
 
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