The Ultimate DIY Rocks!

[Aqua Keepers]

I've used silicone to attatch baffels in a glass sump before. I think as long as there's not too much pressure pulling on it, it'll be ok. I'll have rock up against the panals to help hold them in place. The silicone is more or less there to prevent detrious from getting back there. My main concern is if the cement mix will adhear to the acrylic. Also my question above was'nt answered. How thick should I make the panals? I was thinking 1.5"- 2".

 

[speckled trout]

Great corals Trout - I'll second the question; Where's the rock?

Here's some I've posted before:

One during the rock making process:

A close up of what the rock looks like after being "assimilated" by the tank

One a few months ago where the rock isn't as covered by the frags

 

[Aqua Keepers]

Nice post Insane Reefer. That needs to be stickied.

 

[RandyStacyE]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9043177#post9043177 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by pito
I've used silicone to attatch baffels in a glass sump before. I think as long as there's not too much pressure pulling on it, it'll be ok. I'll have rock up against the panals to help hold them in place. The silicone is more or less there to prevent detrious from getting back there. My main concern is if the cement mix will adhear to the acrylic. Also my question above was'nt answered. How thick should I make the panals? I was thinking 1.5"- 2".

The problem is that cement doesn't 'permanently adhere' to anything. The only way to get a permanent lock to something using cement is to obtain a 'physical grasp' using concrete. Similar to clasping your hands. That is why it was suggested to drill holes in the acrylic that you want to apply the cement to.

I've seen where some people have applied cement mixture to egg crate. Personally I'd snap off some of the plastic occasionally throughout the egg crate to create some jagged pieces of plastic for the cement mixture to encapsulate. You could also zip tie objects and such to egg crate for the cement to grab a hold of.

You could apply your cement mixture to the interior of your tank itself, but use some plastic (like Saran Wrap) in between applications to allow the structure to be removed in sections. This way you can remove them and cure them in a tote if you wish.

You can apply the cement so that once it is reassembled (in the future) it would be literally 'free standing' and 'self supporting'. This eliminates making anything absolutely permanent and irreversible.

 

[Holmez221b]

Once the rocks have been put in water to cure , how long does it usually take to see the ph spike??

 

[Aqua Keepers]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9044378#post9044378 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RandyStacyE
The problem is that cement doesn't 'permanently adhere' to anything. The only way to get a permanent lock to something using cement is to obtain a 'physical grasp' using concrete. Similar to clasping your hands. That is why it was suggested to drill holes in the acrylic that you want to apply the cement to.

I've seen where some people have applied cement mixture to egg crate. Personally I'd snap off some of the plastic occasionally throughout the egg crate to create some jagged pieces of plastic for the cement mixture to encapsulate. You could also zip tie objects and such to egg crate for the cement to grab a hold of.

You could apply your cement mixture to the interior of your tank itself, but use some plastic (like Saran Wrap) in between applications to allow the structure to be removed in sections. This way you can remove them and cure them in a tote if you wish.

You can apply the cement so that once it is reassembled (in the future) it would be literally 'free standing' and 'self supporting'. This eliminates making anything absolutely permanent and irreversible.

Well, I got a crap load of acrylic laying around. So, I'm gonna try sanding the h3!! out of it and drilling holes in it. If it still refuses to stick to the acrylic, I'll try to use two part. I'll let you all know what happens.

 

[Insane Reefer]

Thanks Pito - took me like 3 hours to write that

Honestly, you can make these as thick or thin as you want. If you use Rhody's idea of fortifier, he said you could get it as thin 1/4". The thicker the pieces, the stronger the pieces will be. My panels are typically 3/4" -2 1/2" deep, and that varies along the panel.
I don't like to use anything other than regular cement, so I just use a slightly wetter version of my Preferred Recipe, minus salt - replacing salt with sand and shell. I will sprinkle salt on the top to add porosity though.

I still am unsure as to why the acrylic is needed, unless it would be for easy removal. If the tank is unfilled (as you say), and you cast your pieces as I and Randy suggested, straight onto glass (protected with plastic - it will stick somewhat to glass), the back will be smooth and once you spread the silicone on and attach them, they will be in place until you remove them - not much in the way of space to trap anything.

But if you really must glue these to acrylic, you might just save yourself some trial and error, and just jump straight to the two minute epoxy - that Will hold it to acrylic

If your tank is wide from front to back, you could really do some neat things with this - it can really add an illusion of depth if done right.

Keep us posted!

 

[Randall_James]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8382007#post8382007 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ODOG
I'll just add another possible ingrediant....pvc shavings. This is suggested on the garf website because of coraline algaes propensity for growing on it. I saved a bunch of shavings from my plumbing to give it a try.
.

Don't do it, if you talk to the guys at Garf they will tell you the same thing. That experiment ending up failing in the end (I was involved in this about 2 years ago)

 

[Insane Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9045358#post9045358 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Holmez221b
Once the rocks have been put in water to cure , how long does it usually take to see the ph spike??

These isn't any rule of thumb for this, that I know of, and pH doesn't really "spike" like you are thinking. One would have to test their water everyday to determine if and when a high point might be reached, which is way more effort that you need.

This will be a steady process, and slow, so just give it time. Until your rock stops putting off the white residue don't even worry about testing your water - that residue is one clue that the rock isn't ready...

 

[Insane Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9046205#post9046205 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Randall_James
Don't do it...(adding PVC shavings...), if you talk to the guys at Garf they will tell you the same thing. That experiment ending up failing in the end...

Why-fore? I have a small bag of shavings I have been hoarding, waiting to experiment with when I got enough.

In what way did it fail?

Give us the lowdown on professional man made rock! All my info on GARF and their rock is like 10 years old. I know they used to cure in a waterway out back, have they upgraded to tame water? How do they seed their rock? Give us details :bounce3:

I'm really interested as I have found 2 new places that might buy rock off of me, but I need to find a way to kure and later seed large quantities (250lbs at a time), effectively.

Anyone in the Midwest want to go into business?
LOL

Thanks!

 

[Holmez221b]

ok... for some reason I thought after a few hours the ph would be like a 12... I'll give it some time. I'm trying my rock with hydraulic water plug like Mr. Wilson suggests. I'll let everyone know how it goes..

 

[Insane Reefer]

Hey Holmez,
There is going to be so much salt in the water for the next few days, I doubt you could get an accurate reading...
Can you point me to which page this post by Mr W is on?
I'd like more info on the hydraulic jug, and search on this board stinks
Thanks!

 

[Aqua Keepers]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9046195#post9046195 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Insane Reefer


But if you really must glue these to acrylic, you might just save yourself some trial and error, and just jump straight to the two minute epoxy - that Will hold it to acrylic

Insane Reefer, I think I'll just do that. The acrylic is for easy removal and I think it'll help with strength as well. My tank is only 18" front to back, but I do plan on creating some shelves and what not. I might be off work tomarrow. So, hopefully I can get one made.

 

[Holmez221b]

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php? s=&threadid=993625&perpage=25&pagenumber=2

I think this link should work... It is down by the end where he speaks about the hydraulic water plug .

 

[Randall_James]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9046424#post9046424 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Insane Reefer
Why-fore? I have a small bag of shavings I have been hoarding, waiting to experiment with when I got enough.

In what way did it fail?

Give us the lowdown on professional man made rock! All my info on GARF and their rock is like 10 years old. I know they used to cure in a waterway out back, have they upgraded to tame water? How do they seed their rock? Give us details :bounce3:

Thanks!

Although the coraline grows ok on the plastic, it does not stay put. They ended up breaking all the rock up that used the plastic, floating out the PVC and using the balance for garf grunge.

 

[officerbogus]

Just droppin in about my experience tonight. I have maid about 4 batches so far.

One just portland and salt....turned out nice but small granules of rock continue to flake off.

One just Sno white grout and big salt pellets mixed with small grains and dye.... turned out better as far as feeling but not as realistic looking

Another with the grout and just small salt and dye ...turned out better

Tonight I decided to mix the portland and the grout and then add double the quickrete red dye , mix this with water and then add the granular salt. Well this turned out awesome, texture was perfect and color was a mix of dark red to purple-ish.
these were all done with a 2/1 ratio of cement to salt

Also I started wrapping the rock in a contractors garbage bag and spraying with water. CLOSING the bag and adding a reptile heating pad to the container. this seems to have made the rock harder than just leaving it in the salt for a few days, before putting it under water.

Just chiming in, this thread is great.

 

[Urban_Squrill]

Am I the only one that makes rubble?

 

[officerbogus]

Urban,
I was thinking of doing the next batch just all rubble.
Are you doing anything diffrent, than just smaller rocks? Just curious if you had any tricks.

 

[Insane Reefer]

Urban_Squrill - that sucks. Is the cement you are using fresh (powdery) or old (hard or lumpy)?
Are you stirring the salt too much?
Are you leaving it alone for several days, except maybe to mist it?
Is it drying out too fast?
Are you putting it in water right away, or like waiting a week to submerge it?
Are you using a recipe that incorporates aggregates?
Those are the only things I can think of just now that might cause your problems like you are talking about...

OcciferBogus,
If you want the rubble for a 'fuge or for stuffing behind/under the main rock pile, just break up the stuff you have made that you didn't like, but is nice and hard - works great and less waste

 

[Insane Reefer]

Nice shapes, Trout Thanks for posting them.

Thanks Holmez - now, of course, I thought you wrote "Jug", not "Plug", lol