The Ultimate DIY Rocks!

kinghokus420 - not trying to 2nd guess you, just curious what the maestra says

IR - you rock.

I have this page bookmarked as my personal what-to-do guide. Sorry you summarized for the nth time, but I deeply appreciate the detailed explanation of your most current thinking/best practice. This and foam are being used almost exclusively in my new build, and the rock needs time to ckure, so it needs to get rolling asap.

Much, much thanks.
 
Thanks for the write-up IR. I forget some parts of this thread and its so huge its hard to find stuff sometimes. But i think i'm guilty of letting the rocks sit dry too long. I think i'll try my hand at a few new rocks and be sure to keep them damp for the first 2 weeks this time, then into the water.
 
;)
It's been a learning experience, I can tell you, lol. But when all is said and done, if it helps the hobby or the environment, even in a small way, it will have been worth it to me...
 
Im just a follower of this thread too! I also enjoy making the rocks and am just as curious as the next person. i have about 6 different batches in my yard in various stages in my own attempt at figuring this out and what works best. :)
 
How about each rock, made in a big bag that sits inside a big styrofoam box (we all have those from mailorder livestock places, right?) -

Then, once cast, close the bag, close the box, put box out in the sun to stay hot.

Come out and mist once every couple days. 28 days (give or take) later, begin kure, soaking rocks in a vat, preferably with a valve at the bottom to drain and refill water every so often, also sitting out in the sun.

Does this make sense from a practical, boiled down environment point of view? I'm sure Im missing something, though I read the extended response. I'm looking to use what I have (including your directions) and be clear on the steps. I think I'm going to start casting at the end of next week.
 
You've got it right, Ocean Size - that is the "tried and true" method that GARF pimps on their site :)
Well, they don't have the ball valve thing, they are sitting on a geothermal spring or something of that sort, but certainly the box-bag idea.
 
Sorry - I haven't read GARF in a decade. Didn't realize their involvement in this. Wow, Leroy and SallyJo + co. have been very busy I see. They have some nice corals and gorg too from the looks of it. Thanks for pointing me there; definitely worth checking out.

Do you think there should be standing moisture in the bottom of the bag? That would help ensure a strong cure, provided the rock wasnt soaking too much I imagine...

Oh, these are very nice at GARF http://www.garf.org/07/CONNECTORS/index.htm

Those connector plugs are an interesting idea. I've been thinking about casting around pvc tubing, if that works.

Summary:
1) standing moisture in bottom of bag - good? Rocks could be raised up on eggcrate above pool of water to keep bag moist but not submerged
2) Casting around PVC plugs - good idea, at least for base if not for structure and connectivity?
Lastly -
3) how about black plastic bags around styrofoam container boxes to attract heat in the sun? It could get really hot in there, no energy wasted; its summertime :)

And please keep RC posted kinghokus420 - very interested in your take
 
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LOL. Their site hasn't changed much in a decade ;)
GARF has some decent info for the beginner rock maker, but I sort of disagree with some of the info they've put out.

1. A little moisture in the bag would be great and prevent the need to babysit the rock so much. Though if you are casting into damp sand, really, all you need to do is seal the whole kit and kaboodle - the sand will contain more than enough moisture.

2. Personally I don't like the look of the connectors, but it is very doable. Many folks have cast around PVC. If you peek into my gallery, there should be a picture of my first attempt at making "branching coral". I used a heat gun (outdoors) to heat and bend the tubing after having drilled holes in it. Connected them with heavy zip ties, and then, almost like candle making, dipped it repeatedly into a thin cement slurry. Not the most realistic, but the method worked.

3. Would need to test this. Cement should really, really not be allowed to rise above 150°F or micro-fractures can occur within the matrix of the rock. As long as the rock can be kept below that point, I see no reason this wouldn't make for an excellent cure.
 
Good post OCEAN SIZE, i was thinking along the same lines. I got out all my ingredients last night and will go to work this afternoon on a few rocks. I will cast in a styro box with sand. I planned on putting a large cup of water in there then covering with a plastic bag and sealing it up in my garage. Its stays nice and hot in there during the day and the large cup of water should help provide moisture so i don't have to open it up every couple days.

IR is it 2 weeks of drying or 28 days, then into the water for kure?
 
im having one of those doh moments curing my rock... the pH test is coming out more purple than the 8.4 and 8.8 reading... does that make the pH higher than 8.8 or between 8.2 and 8.4....ive never tested anything with such a high pH before....

is there something in the kitchen i could test that would have a pH higher than 9?
 
It would be at least 2 weeks to 28 days of curing, ideally, Impur

And as long as you wet the sand down before you use it (that can also help you get crazier shapes), there is no need for extra moisture. Trust me on that one. I had a tote that I had put the cover on, half full of wet sand, and it got "lost" under some stuff, and when I finally dug it out, several months later, the sand was still damp.
 
I'm pulling up a blank, Sly Fox, but Welcome to the thread :wave:

It really depends on your kit. If you have a red indicator, purple may in fact be way higher than the 8 range. I couldn't say without seeing the test kit...

However, if your system is larger than 10g, and you are definitely in the 8 range, I'd not worry about it too much and just use it. Do a 3 day test, and if it is still in the 8 range, you should be good to go. Keep an eye on your pH in the tank and buffer as/if needed.
 
thanks mate, might add some mrs pickles lime to water and test that, it should push the pH high and i can compare

the rocks going in my 25g cube... i normally only buffer to keep pH up, will buffering bring down a high pH?
thanks
 
Yeah, you are right - wrong term in this situation; in FW you can buffer to neutral, and that was the first thing that popped into my little head...
You would use vinegar or some product that lowers pH - I have one called "pH Down", by Aquarium Pharmaceuticals that is cheap at the LFS.
 
I've had to use it a couple of times in SW - had no problems. I didn't know it was classified as a FW treatment - it's just a sulfuric acid solution...
 
This thread is simply amazing. I must admit that I have not been a loyal follower of this thread from its early days, but faced with a tank upgrade and a desire for some specifically-shaped rock structures, I dove in with both feet today and began casting some rocks!

I decided to go with Travis's "unofficial improved" formula, only I used white tile grout in place of the white portland cement. My mix was 2.5:1, salt crystal:grout. I used the salt crystals as my casting medium. I think i made a cool looking structure, but I wont know until I remove it from the salt.

I feel that I owe everyone that has made this thread what it is a huge THANK YOU (especially you IR & Travis)

I will post pics once I am satisfied with my work.
 
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