Used water stop and southdown sand 1 or 1.5:1 ratio.
Walls, rocks and floor all MMLR. I was suprised my pH was higher than expected but it is now under 8.4 and I am getting new tank syndrome popping up.
The Ultimate DIY Rocks!
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
Used water stop and southdown sand 1 or 1.5:1 ratio.
Walls, rocks and floor all MMLR. I was suprised my pH was higher than expected but it is now under 8.4 and I am getting new tank syndrome popping up.
kcress
New member
Another option is ceramic.
Up side: No curing. Light weight. Strong.
Down side: You need a kiln and you have to build in for some shrinkage.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=17878122&postcount=426
Up side: No curing. Light weight. Strong.
Down side: You need a kiln and you have to build in for some shrinkage.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=17878122&postcount=426
mr.wilson
.Registered Member
My mother has a kiln I can have that is about 2'x2'x4' but it's electric so I would imagine the cost to fire rock would be prohibitive.
Do you get heavy metals like lead in ceramic? What about toxins cadmium since there is no protective glaze? I know some "ceramic" rock has a lot of soluble silicate. Have you tested for silicates? I would test phosphate levels as well. Most of the ceramic rock I have seen has diatom algae issues. Let us know how it works out.
DeathWish302
Clown Hoarder
Kudafish - You used only the waterstop and SD for all rock in that shot above? Wow... I thought about using with some CC, but thought it may be too brittle. I guess I'm going to have to give it a try this weekend. I can always use more rock.
Yes everything you see is WS and SD sand. The only place I used WS only was for the PH box in the upper left on the back wall. I did a box using egg crate and the sides you can see are the mix.
I can pour water through the rock so it is porous.
The two structures were made over about a week's time on my lunch break at work. There are maybe 4 or 5 thin layers that are built up. If I made one layer and did a second one in the same day I would use a spray bottle to wet the first one down and then put the second one on, spray again and sort of work the two together and then spary again when finished.
One thing is WS sets up fast like 10 minutes so you have to work in small amounts. If it is drying out you can wet it again and help shape things. If you are mixing it in your hands for example and it is like mash potatoes spray and let it absorb the water again then attach to whatever.
The walls and floor were done differently. I used a dry mix method. I mixed the two parts and laid them out against the glass and then using a spray bottle started misting until water pooled some. Someone had a thread about attaching DIY rock directly to the glass and was told not to because the concrete would pull away. I started this in June/July and have not had issue yet though the amount of rock I have is not the same as the OP's 75 gallon. After working the rock, I would then leave everything alone until the next day.
If you notice an area that does not look too strong you can sprinkle some more WS on the structure and if there is too much water etc. it will wick and mix and then you can use your finger or a chopstick. If you feel like you have too much WS you can sprinkle more sand etc.
I will admit a few things though:
1. The rock will be heavier than other MMLR. I did not care though.
2. Somewhere on a thread, maybe this one, Mr. Wilson discusses pH and the advantages of WS. I have used it before and have not gotten a pH shift but this time I did.
I think the reason is because of the amount I used vs. water volume.
I used probably 10 to 15 pounds of WS and close to that of sand for this aquarium. It is a 5.5 gallon.
However even though I have a large amount of surface area I measured the amount of water volume in the tank and it was 4 gallons and 1250 ml so all of my rock displaced around 22% of the space.
I think you could use CC if you wanted. The fun thing about this is you can play around and get your rock to look like how you want it to look. If not then the rock can go into the sump. Or start stacking and then make few rocks.
MMLR is suppose to look natural so if it looks too perfect then not so much.
Good luck and post pics.
kcress
New member
It wouldn't be free but anything has a cost. I doubt a run in that kiln costs more than a few dollars.
I have zero concern about heavy metals - ZERO. Only a few old glazes were nasty in that respect.
Silicate? I don't see how it's going to be very much if any. But I will let you know and am interested to see.
DeathWish302
Clown Hoarder
No kidding! Mine was setting up rock hard in 5-7 min when I was 'gluing' some rock together from the Gulf of Mexico.
When I glued the rocks together, the pH had a minor spike to 8.5 in a Brute trashcan. The real annoying thing that happened was the cloudiness of the tank a couple days later after the new masterpiece was placed in the DT. I think the spike in the alk from the WS may have caused the sudden precipitation. Not totally sure on that.
Sump? Are you kidding? I have enough experimental rock to completely fill every tank, toilet, bathtub & sink in my place!:lol2: I have been constantly experimenting with rock, but decided to take a hiatus after the GF starting the groaning about it taking up to much room.. Doh. You've sparked that interest again and I will gladly place blame all on you, if you don't mind.:lmao:
Anyone that needs some MMLR in SE MI just let me know!
Will Do!
MarineGirl411
New member
Has anyone tried to attach magnets to the MMLR? I am interested in doing something like the Mag Frags or Mag Rock. I did a search on RC, but I am not able to find anything. :sad2:
MarineGirl411
New member
Wow I just got a frag rack with neodymium magnets. That is scary!
MarineGirl411
New member
Sweet! Please let me know! =) Thank you.
ashtree68
Active member
I'm still in the middle, well beginning I should say, of reading this thread and wanted to get some "spoilers" if you want to call them that.
1) So far up to where I am, the recipe is about 2.5-3:1 rock salt:cement, is that still about the same?
1b) Is portland type I, II, I/II, III still the way to go or has a "new" type been discovered instead?
2) If the portland cement still the way to go have we found a to speed up the Kuring process from 13+ weeks?
I currently have about 10 or so lbs of rock kuring, and will be making about 300 lbs total so would like to speed up the kuring process anyway I can but I know nothing comes quickly in the hobby.
Thanks
1) So far up to where I am, the recipe is about 2.5-3:1 rock salt:cement, is that still about the same?
1b) Is portland type I, II, I/II, III still the way to go or has a "new" type been discovered instead?
2) If the portland cement still the way to go have we found a to speed up the Kuring process from 13+ weeks?
I currently have about 10 or so lbs of rock kuring, and will be making about 300 lbs total so would like to speed up the kuring process anyway I can but I know nothing comes quickly in the hobby.
Thanks
Rhodes19
New member
Well I found her on RC and sent a PM but haven't heard back from her. Her on line name is ReefGirlSara but her last post was in April. If I hear from her I'll let you know.
Rhodes19
New member
TheFishMan65
New member
I agree salt with Rhodes memory that salt weakens the cement I left it out. My opinion is for decoration fine, but if the rock will hold weight leave it out. But I am also sure someone will disagree 
but that is my $0.02.
but that is my $0.02.
ashtree68
Active member
Alright, maybe nix the salt then, but basically everything is the same, I have a couple batches kuring now and I'll see how they look in a few months time. To make them still still porous do you just use a "drip" type method when building the rocks?
Is it best to let them sit a few days and air dry after you pull them out of the mold before soaking them?
Sorry for the questions I know IR had a summary guide way back when, is there a newer one that she or someone put together?
Is it best to let them sit a few days and air dry after you pull them out of the mold before soaking them?
Sorry for the questions I know IR had a summary guide way back when, is there a newer one that she or someone put together?
TheFishMan65
New member
No IR wrote the last one I remember seeing. I just mixed mix really dry and it seem fairly porous.
I let mine dry for several months hoping to reduce the water required for kuring - I don't think it helped. So I think the current recommendation is for 7 days then let it soak.
I let mine dry for several months hoping to reduce the water required for kuring - I don't think it helped. So I think the current recommendation is for 7 days then let it soak.
