The Ultimate DIY Rocks!

Spank -

If you want to skip the kure and put directly into your tank, I would imagine that a piece at a time would be ok. I would just watch pH very closely...

For me, i had lots of pieces when i made them so adding multiple pieces at a time would have been disasterous, in my opinion, so I didn't go that direction. but that's simply my experience and there's so many ways to do this that it's hard to say that something won't work if you don't have the experience of trying it and getting bad results.

Insane - good to see you again - see my 2-year-old MMLR pics a couple pages back? You helped me with those...
 
I wouldn't worry about using well water and introducing phosphates. Same with using an unpolluted running stream. but i heard that you REALLY have to hose down the LR after it's been in a stream to get organics/dirt out.

for me, i used waste RO/DI water for as many water changes as possible, although I ended up using tap water most of the time. Either we're going to use perfect water and not have any level of conatminants, or we're going to use non-perfect water and have a small level. It depends on how perfect you want your tank to be.

For me, a negligable amount of traces in the rock was acceptable. I used *mostly* tap water and I only had a very minor algae bloom.
 
as my post just got timed out/errd

Gold: yea I know I saw your directions, I'm just trying to find my own way of working with things to get porosity with shape. I can get shape without porosity fine, but porosity is the real challenge.

still not sure about the water though...guess I will have to test. I plan on bypassing my DI in my RO/DI unit and just using ro though
 
Wow I cannot believe the life of this thread. It just keeps going and going.
I do have one question about all the experiments people have been conducting:
How much faster is the process today than it was at the beginning of the thread? Are we talking from months to weeks to days? Or just a slight difference?

Thanks.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15432322#post15432322 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by SpankythePyro
as my post just got timed out/errd

Gold: yea I know I saw your directions, I'm just trying to find my own way of working with things to get porosity with shape. I can get shape without porosity fine, but porosity is the real challenge.

still not sure about the water though...guess I will have to test. I plan on bypassing my DI in my RO/DI unit and just using ro though

Spank -
What are you referring to with porosity? the recipe? I used Morton's water conditioner rock salt for porosity, and the ratios in the recipe would determine how porous the rock will be.

not sure what you're asking, happy to help -

Eric
 
You can get shape with porosity by being careful not to add too much water. I think that's what I think you're asking.

adding the rock salt after you get the consistency you want generally made it a little stiffer.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15436527#post15436527 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by KafudaFish
Wow I cannot believe the life of this thread. It just keeps going and going.
I do have one question about all the experiments people have been conducting:
How much faster is the process today than it was at the beginning of the thread? Are we talking from months to weeks to days? Or just a slight difference?

Thanks.

From my experience, it's like finding the perfect recipe for apple pie, it gets better, but it's still apple pie.

Everyone has there individual tricks they use. Some gain with better chemistry, while others get ahead with artistic skills and creativity. From what I've seen, it looks like the basic approach is the same with slightly different execution. Travis's rock at the start of the thread looks as good or better than anything else posted on here. A lot of the discussion has been explorative or to hep a newcomer along.
 
Ok thanks for the explaination. I was looking back on the first 40 pages and realized I posted on this thread in October 2006 but I have not kept up with it and I was just wondering if the questions about time had been addressed. On the few times I have looked in, there was something about adding something like raw pasta or something similar so I figured that not much had progressed.

The rock that I made went into a mantis tank for over 2 years. I also made a false rock wall based upon what Travis and I discussed. Within a few months it looked natural and I used it to attach xenia to it.

If anyone is interested, I took light diffuser (egg crate) from HD and cut a section out the same size as the back wall. I then cut sections out to give it a more open look. I did this for weight and wanted a less man made pattern. I used portland #1, crushed oyster shell from the feed store and a little rock salt that I broke up with a hammer for different pore sizes. The one other thing I did was attach additional light diffuser behind my rock wall that came out of the water. I did this for two reasons:
1. To make it removeable if I did not like it or needed to get in there for some reason. I attached the "hangers" with clips to the aquarium itself vs. sealing/attaching it to the glass.
2. I did not worry about it shifting and it looked like a vertical wall.

Too bad I don't have any pictures of it.
 
gold, I don't want to weaken the rock with the salt though. i am going to try removing one thing I had added to my mix, I'll test it out soon
 
I did the same as you with side walls kafudafish. I added some perpendicular eggcrate pieces, strapped down with cable ties for some shelves. It works best if the shelves are as irregular as you can get them. Filling below the shelves with expanding foam spray works to speed things up and add some texture.
 
If you dribble, you get loads and loads of little nooks and crannies instead of just surface area like a baseball. Now, not sure how that plays out to detrus build up, but, definitly more surface area for bacteria.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15469212#post15469212 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by SpankythePyro
http://www.aquariumpros.ca/forums/showthread.php?t=38004&page=3

a good read...ppl getting into a heated arguement about the filtration ability of diy vs real rock

I'm shocked by the amount of misinformation on that thread.

Anyone else want to join that forum just to set everyone straight?

I'm using 90% MMLR in my tank, and I have a full mixed tank with a refugium and no skimmer. I'm betting half of the posters on that thread would say that what I'm doing is impossible.
 
So how does everyone deal with all the power in their Crushed Oyster shells. I am getting 40-45lbs of OS out of a 50lb bag... and cleaning the os is a pain
 
I don't rinse my Oyster shell at all when I make rock. I've never had an issue.

My system is darn near 100% DIY-Rock
 
Wow...Just read the thread and that ajx22 guy has some serious issues. I think someone must have dropped soem MMLR on his toe and he's holding a grudge or something.

He really has no facts to back up anything he's saying just a personal rant.. And his statement that MMLR is not a porous as real LR is just plain nuts. I have LR I've made that water runs straight through like a sponge. You find me a piece of LR out of a store tank that will do that.

Very sad to read that thread.

He also apparently doesn't follow his own rules. He gets pretty nasty toward the end and breaks rule #7 here: http://www.aquariumpros.ca/forums/misc.php?do=cfrules a couple times.
 
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Here are some 1" - 3" diameter cores that I drilled out of Haiti (first two from left) and Fiji (right) live rock. The inside is quite dense, like concrete with only a few worm or urchin holes. I often find large black burrowing worms in the rock, about the size of a slug. This die off is just as bad as sponges when you add new live rock to your tank. This is one benefit to using artificial rock as there is no massive shock of die off. The addition of ammonium chloride daily will help speed up the establishment of a nitrogen cycle.

IMG_7527.jpg


Man made rock is comprised mostly of marine calcareous aggregate with only 25% cement content. I don't see any significant difference in the surface area or void spaces in artificial or natural rock. Nitrifying bacteria live on detritus trapped in the substrate and in rock surfaces. There really is no shortage of nitrification even in bare bottom tanks with only a few rocks, manmade or natural. A lot of time was spent discussing how to increase porosity on man made rock in this thread, but very little time was focused on why we should do so.

While it's true that you can't improve on nature, I don't think it's fair to say nature has evolved to use nitrification as its sole design for rock formations, nor is it fair to say that bacteria have evolved to only accept the exact pore matrix of coral rock. In the end, man made rock is encrusted with worms, coraline algae, sponges, and coral polyps, so the surface porosity is identical to that of naturally formed live rock. We are comparing sea apples to sea apples here.

One person has argued that man made rock is more harmful to the environment than live rock due to the trucking across great distances. I can assure you that the journey from Fiji to the end user in North America uses far more fuel. I don't know anything about mining portland cement, but I doubt it is removed from as delicate an environment as live rock is.

People make their own rock for a variety of reasons, and cost is (or at least should be) in the minority. I make it because it looks better, fits better, hides plumbing, and has limitless possibilities. The tank matures quicker (nitrogen cycle, coraline algae & misc. invertebrates) if you mix some live rock with your artificial rock, but there is no reason why the "live" rock added has to be from the ocean. I still use natural live rock, but I wouldn't be disappointed if live rock harvesting was banned tomorrow. Once the rock is in your tank for six months, it's almost impossible to tell which ones are real and which are artificial.
 
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