The war on Aiptasia... adding an Aiptaser to the arsenal!

Bump these instructions due to all the recent interest in aiptasers. I just bought several 12 volt 1 amp DC power supplies, graphite sticks and on/off pushbuttons from Ebay... you can find all of these items cheap on Ebay, much cheaper than Radio Shack. I'll make more of these devices for door prizes for future club meetings.

If you're not sure which of the two power supply wires to solder to the stainless steel wire, and which to wrap and tape to the graphite stick, then cut off the connector at the end of the DC power supply, strip off a little of the insulation to the two ends, stick them in salt water and turn on the power (no worries about electrocution... it's DC voltage, not AC). The end that bubbles is the end you'll solder to the stainless steel wire, the other end you'll wrap around and tape to the graphite stick. The harder the graphite stick, the better. 2B is fairly hard (better than 4B or 6B) and in stock at most art supply stores. If I can find a source for harder sticks (they go up to 9H on the softness/hardness scale) I'll get some. Still can't emphasize enough about regular aiptasia control if you have these pests. And a $2 container of Mrs. Wages pickling lime at Kroger's (aka kalkwasser aka calcium hydroxide) is the other main weapon for your arsenal!
 
Hi neuro,
My diy zapper works well.thanks....
It kills pest nems, but not palys....the paly hasn't died not even the brown, button,zoa none.:eek:

other than nem, what did u kill?
 
I've killed Aiptasia and majano anemones with the taser, that's all. Anyone else use it for xenia or GSP or palys?
 
I've killed Aiptasia and majano anemones with the taser, that's all. Anyone else use it for xenia or GSP or palys?

Hi Neuro/others,

Even the majano came back on same spot...though they turned into goo after zapping!
How long do u tase them? I do see bubbles in the stainlesssteel. Voltmeter tells p.d. is 12v.
Maybe my distance bet anode and cathode is more?

Curious ,what if I make the ends closer say like an inch or 3/4". And zap the suckers, so they willl be part of the short ?

Havent tried in aiptasia ,I dont have them!

thx:beer:
 
Majanos seem to have sturdier/thicker body than aptasia. Maybe the majanos need to be tazed 2 or 3 times.....
 
hi there and a big hello from uk. i have made your diy aiptaser but found my graphite was turning into mush aswell as my aiptasia was. i was wondering if its possible to use titanuim as the anode rather than the graphite, what are your views, on this.

thanks chris
 
i haven't tested the reactivity/corrosiveness of a titanium electrode.... by all means give it a try. however, there are graphite rods of different hardness. from 10B (most soft) to 10H (most hard). I'm currently using a 2B electrode and while it does slowly decompose, i've killed dozens and dozens with it so far.
 
Well the reason why I say titanium is becuase most boats propellers are made of titanium so shud be pretty hardy to corrosion and also used in electroplating so my thoughts would be thats it suitable for the job. I will give it a try and let ya know the results.

Chris
 
Sorry, Marty... if that was a bit long and complex for you, this might be more to your liking:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SCWaAGvtvs4&feature=related

Hate it when people do things like this. When you have an informative log to try and DIY on something.. A link to a Dr. Suess video is not only not helpful.. But rather annoying. (I get it.. It's a joke.. But it opens another app for a "joke" that's not funny when one is looking for instruction)
 
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