theory verification

redadeath

redadeath

New member
tried all of tricks with wild corals

changed from 250 watt to 400 *2 watt radiums

good flow... stable parameters (dosing pump) for 2 parts

phospahte is zero in salifret
nitrates zero on sera test kit

corals are only 20 cm from the water surface and bulbs are 25 cm




but acropora corals still dark although i have very good growth with very pale colour at the edges

turbinaria is growing and have yellow polyps but the skeleton seems to be grey or dark green

now what should i do


is there any ideas about reducing zooxanthellas


my theory is if i started feeding corals may be they should reduce their zooxanthellas



am i right or is there any thing else with the wild corals i missed


now they are only 3 month after upgrading the new mh system and growth is great but they have dark greenish skeleton


i use ro-di water
chiller at 25 c
kh 9
calcium 440
magnesium 1450

thanx all
 
So long as your N & P are low I would strongly suggest feeding something. There are many companies that produce products designed for feeding coral as well as DIY recipes. Pics would help as well.
 
see, when you feed something, it multiplies, it gets fatter.

feeding a coral that has too much zoox [dark colored coral] you should only expect multipication of the said zoox, not reducion of them.

you mention the base being dark green, if it was pale, or pale green, feeding would bring out the true color of the tissue.

you have great growth as you mention, which means u have all the food that they want !

now, have you tested your po4 with hanna low range checker ?


being wild corals as you mentioned, it sometimes takes longer for the base [if browned out] to return to its original, so if the new growth looks healthy, ure water is fine, just need more time.


lastly, if all corals are healthy, doing amazing, and growiing, you can give Zeospure2 from KZ a shot ! its one of the only products that I know of that will lower zoox population. use half or 1/3 of the dosage if u decide to give it a shot.


of course, just my opinion :)
 
sorry for the mild thread highjack, but is the general consensus that the low range phosphate Hanna checker superior to something like salifert? I thought that was not the case.

The instructions in salifert says that you can double the water and reagents to get double the resolution. so you should be able to detect .015???
 
sorry for the mild thread highjack, but is the general consensus that the low range phosphate Hanna checker superior to something like salifert? I thought that was not the case.

The instructions in salifert says that you can double the water and reagents to get double the resolution. so you should be able to detect .015???
Click to expand...

so still the point is phosphate only

i dont think i do have phosphate problem while i haveing great growth

i also have chaeto algae and turfscrubber


am i right ?
 
astly, if all corals are healthy, doing amazing, and growiing, you can give Zeospure2 from KZ a shot ! its one of the only products that I know of that will lower zoox population. use half or 1/3 of the dosage if u decide to give it a shot.
Click to expand...

i searched the internet i found zeospur and zeospur 2 can u please explain what is the difference and how to use it

thank you
 
redadeath said:
i searched the internet i found zeospur and zeospur 2 can u please explain what is the difference and how to use it

thank you
Click to expand...

Your going to want to purchase the Zeospur 2. ZEOSpur is macro elements. Here are the descriptions directly from the ZEO guide:

ZEOSpur:
This product supports growth as well as color formation. This product does not contain
the "œstandard" elements but rather elements missing from synthetic salt mixes.
However, these elements are available at very low concentrations in natural seawater.
We recommend dosing once weekly at a rate of 5 ml per 25 gallons in heavy stocked
tanks and less in tanks with fewer animals. This supplement can also be used in tanks
not using the ZEOvit® method.


ZEOSpur 2:
It is possible with this product to influence the amount of zooxanthellae in the coral
tissue. The coral itself has more energy for growth because the zooxanthellae density
requires less energy. This is possible for acropora, anacropora and montipora. The
reduction of zooxanthellae in the outer layers brings out the colors of the coral from
deeper layers. ZEOspur2 is also able to influence colors. However, the primary color
shown will be the color right below the layer with the zooxanthellae. It is possible to
reduce the amount of zooxanthellae so much that the coral will not get enough energy
via photosynthesis. This condition can be maintained for a long period of time without
damage to the coral. However, our experiments have shown that continued
overdosing, and only under this condition, coral tissue will become thinner and thinner
and ultimately completely dissolve. We recommend dosing every 14 "“ 21 days. It is
important to apply the full dose all at once or there will no be any changes. The
reduction of zooxanthellae occurs within 48 hours and also reaches its highest point at
that time. The reaction and, therefore, the dosing amount are different from tank to
tank. We recommend starting at 50 % of the recommended amount to get a feel for the
product. Subsequently, you can increase the dosing amount, not the interval, by 10%
each time to find the perfect dosing amount. The maximum dosing amount is 1 ml per
25 gallons and should not be exceeded. We do not recommend the use of this product
during the initial starting phase of the ZEOvit® system. There is too much change and
your corals will not have enough time to adjust safely. We would like to mention at this
point that this product has the fastest and most drastic impact of the whole system. The
optimum dosing, in this case, is absolutely necessary in order not to damage your
corals.


Hope this helps!
James
 
I have an anticdotal theory that has positively zero scientific base of any kind.

I like to call this a "hunch", lol.


My "hunch" after having similar issues is that todays skimmers & powerful lights make it far too easy to strip the water and blast corals with light. 10 years ago you'd need to pull a second mortgage to buy the sort of equipment that would do this but today it can be had for the every day reefer.

It also seems like todays tanks (systems) get onto certian paths. Paths that cause the system to become export dependant on certian sources (some good & some bad).

After fighting a similar fight for a long time I bought the best skimmers/equipment that money could buy. My corals were pale but everytime I started to feed the algea just grew more and the skimmers never picked up any steam. The tank seemed dependant on the algea while the other methods weren't allowed to develop.

What helped me is getting the tank back to square one. Get the algea under control and start feeding the best quality food I could find while SLOWLY increasing it and allowing the tank to adjust and catch up to the increase in waste.

There are threads every week about the best salt...... salt only gets used once every week, couple of weeks or less. Food gets put in daily and IMHO has more to do with color and growth. When it comes to the coloration conversation minerals & trace elements seems to get a lot press but I'd wager that foods have more to do with it


Less "what's the best quality salt" threads and more "what's the best quality foods" threads :)


Like I said, this is just an opinion, my tank often reminds me of how dumb I am and how little I actually know.
 
Woops, I just realized you were talking about wild corals
I thought this was a my corals are too pale thread. Wild maricultured corals are a different animal.

My fault :hmm5:
 
redadeath said:
should i increase temprature so corals excepel some of there zooxthantelle
Click to expand...

putting them in a bag over night with no Oxygen would do the trick better, or bleach. :lolspin:

temp to 84 will be fine, after that, ure just stressing and cooking the tissue.
 
redadeath said:
so still the point is phosphate only

i dont think i do have phosphate problem while i haveing great growth

i also have chaeto algae and turfscrubber


am i right ?
Click to expand...

well po4 below 0.1 PPM will allow calcification. so you will get growth with anything less than 0.1!

but good growth + not so good colors = nutrition problems [ALWAYS] farmers use this method to grow fast, and brown, then use another tank with cleaner water for the piece to color up.
 
well po4 below 0.1 PPM will allow calcification. so you will get growth with anything less than 0.1!

but good growth + not so good colors = nutrition problems [ALWAYS] farmers use this method to grow fast, and brown, then use another tank with cleaner water for the piece to color up.
Click to expand...

good info thank you

can any body tell me how to increase sensivity of salifret phosphate please
 
putting them in a bag over night with no Oxygen would do the trick better, or bleach.

temp to 84 will be fine, after that, ure just stressing and cooking the tissue.
Click to expand...

how should i cover it with plastic bag

thanx all
 
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