Thinking about Fish

[u4ick]

FYI, if you like more than 1 type of foxface (or any other rabbit fish) then I would suggest adding them in o the display at the same time. Rabbits can behave similar to tangs in that they don't mind each other but do not take well to new additions of like species.

But yes, they would make a good 1st addition, just be careful of their dorsal...

 

[mpcart]

FYI, if you like more than 1 type of foxface (or any other rabbit fish) then I would suggest adding them in o the display at the same time. Rabbits can behave similar to tangs in that they don't mind each other but do not take well to new additions of like species.

But yes, they would make a good 1st addition, just be careful of their dorsal...

Probably going to stick to one, but if I did that could both be QT'd together in a 29?

I was at SS yesterday and they had a large (~5") Magnificent Foxface ($$) as well as a nice looking smaller (~3-4") Lo ($). I'm leaning towards the Lo because I've always liked them but that Magnificent was a really nice looking fish.

-Mike

 

[mpcart]

OT - anyone know why quotes and images I attach in tapatalk don't show in the regular site (see above). Am I not using it right?

-Mike

 

[Mascis]

I'm big on qting fish, but wouldn't do it with the first one, especially a foxface. I might be wrong, but the only downside is that if it comes down with ich you'd have to remove it to a qt maybe and let the tank go fallow awhile. The benefit is the poor guy gets to go right into the reef instead of a glass box of a hospital room. Sometimes bigger fish don't like the little glass box. I keep a second reef tank with just a couple clowns and corals to put new fish into. After a couple months there they go into the big display. And if it turns out they need meds, they go into the glass box. I know its a bit unorthodox, but try to avoid the desolate qt tank if i can.

 

[u4ick]

I'm big on qting fish, but wouldn't do it with the first one, especially a foxface. I might be wrong, but the only downside is that if it comes down with ich you'd have to remove it to a qt maybe and let the tank go fallow awhile. The benefit is the poor guy gets to go right into the reef instead of a glass box of a hospital room. Sometimes bigger fish don't like the little glass box. I keep a second reef tank with just a couple clowns and corals to put new fish into. After a couple months there they go into the big display. And if it turns out they need meds, they go into the glass box. I know its a bit unorthodox, but try to avoid the desolate qt tank if i can.

For those that do QT their fish. The best reason to do so even for the 1st one, is that the salinity can be raised very slowly from the hypo salinity that most of the stores do (like the mag foxface the OP mentioned). If he's already got corals or cleaner crew in the DT, then dropping salinity there is not an option.

But I do agree 100%, that getting a fish in his new home as soon as possible is best. It helps considerably with their stress levels, which is why I rarely choose to QT in the 1st place.

 

[Andystl]

I have a one spot foxface and Yellow eye Kole tang in my 120 and the are the best of friends. They follow eachother around and are rarely more than a couple inches from eachother. Great choice if you ask me.... but I am a little biased.

 

[mpcart]

For those that do QT their fish. The best reason to do so even for the 1st one, is that the salinity can be raised very slowly from the hypo salinity that most of the stores do (like the mag foxface the OP mentioned). If he's already got corals or cleaner crew in the DT, then dropping salinity there is not an option.

But I do agree 100%, that getting a fish in his new home as soon as possible is best. It helps considerably with their stress levels, which is why I rarely choose to QT in the 1st place.

Nothing at all in the QT so I can adjust salinity very easily. Is there a rule of thumb regarding the amount of time to match salinity when acclimating a fish? How much differential requires "very slowly"?

-Mike

 

[mpcart]

I have a one spot foxface and Yellow eye Kole tang in my 120 and the are the best of friends. They follow eachother around and are rarely more than a couple inches from eachother. Great choice if you ask me.... but I am a little biased.

Nice to hear. After all the tang discussion at the beginning of the thread, the Yellow Eye is on my hit list.

-Mike

 

[Mascis]

For those that do QT their fish. The best reason to do so even for the 1st one, is that the salinity can be raised very slowly from the hypo salinity that most of the stores do (like the mag foxface the OP mentioned). If he's already got corals or cleaner crew in the DT, then dropping salinity there is not an option.

But I do agree 100%, that getting a fish in his new home as soon as possible is best. It helps considerably with their stress levels, which is why I rarely choose to QT in the 1st place.

Yep. Damn hypo.

 

[Mascis]

+1

Do not post this question in the main forum, the Tang Police will come head hunting. Just keep in mind they like to swim so the need a lot of open room

I have a yellow and I like it. I think the Naso is a cool fish

I have heard a lot of people having trouble keeping powders.

Do they still have a warrant out for you?

 

[Mascis]

Nothing at all in the QT so I can adjust salinity very easily. Is there a rule of thumb regarding the amount of time to match salinity when acclimating a fish? How much differential requires "very slowly"?

-Mike

Increasing salinity I think 2-3 points/day. Decreasing I don't think matters as much.

 

[haynesw]

WetWebMedia says 0.001 SG increase per day from hypo. I shoot for that but end up raising it a little more quickly.

 

[u4ick]

WetWebMedia says 0.001 SG increase per day from hypo. I shoot for that but end up raising it a little more quickly.

Yes this is the "ideal method/rate".

Mostly the way I do so is (and this works well for adding to an established tank too) Is to over fill my sump, if you can, to drop the salinity, and then let evaporation slowly take it up to the tanks normal level. That way I'm not having to play test it every 12/24hrs

If I have an established tank @ 1.025, and a fish coming in @ 1.017 (which by the way does not kill marine Ich so why they bother with that level is beyond me) Then I will take the tank down to 1.022, or lower if the corals don't mind, but the inverts are not too pleased down there.
Then go ahead and put the fish in fairly quickly....salinity wise there is no real difference in a 30 min to a 4 hr acclimation.
The much larger thing to be concerned with is 1st ph, and 2nd temp. So if those things are at a substantial differential, then a slow acclimation is warranted/recommended.

My "Theory" on this is, it's best to get the fish in his new natural like surroundings right away, yes it's a .005 jump....but it's not a .008 jump.

I have had much success with this method.....it works for ME, and so I stick with it. Others have their methods, this is mine, so take it as such.

 

[Mascis]

The much larger thing to be concerned with is 1st ph, and 2nd temp. So if those things are at a substantial differential, then a slow acclimation is warranted/recommended.

Have you ever had to worry about pH? I've never given it much thought but have always drip acclimated everything. Always thought that would equalize the pH.

 

[u4ick]

Have you ever had to worry about pH? I've never given it much thought but have always drip acclimated everything. Always thought that would equalize the pH.

Ph is generally not an issue when getting fish locally. But when ordering out of state when they have spent several hours to a day (or more) in a bag, then yes Ph can be quite different. Bad thing is Ph can change very rapidly just from opening the bag.
Sustainable Aquatics acclimation recommendation for their fish is to float them for 15min and then open bag and release them....no drip at all.

 

[mpcart]

So I ended up with a really nice Mag Foxface. I acclimated and put him directly in the DT as the first fish. He's doing great and eating really well although he seems to hide out a lot.

I'm been attaching nori to a rock and he's eating well. Should I limit the amount he eats or is it okay to just replace the nori as soon as he's done?

-Mike

 

[Koddie Doo]

Fat fish = happy fish

 

[mpcart]

So, here are the three buddies that have been hanging out in the tank the past two months. They stay together like this most of the time and all look full and healthy.

This week I received a male and two female Lyretail Anthias from Diver's Den and they are in the QT looking well and eating.

I read the DD quarantine process and they do so much with treatments and medications that I don't plan on doing any medicating. Since they are eating well and have already been treated/medicated, how long should I keep them in QT?

-Mike

 

[cobra9]

I drip for 6 hours for hypo to my tank levels and have never had a problem. Less then 3 hours I have tho.

 

[smoothdog]

So, here are the three buddies that have been hanging out in the tank the past two months. They stay together like this most of the time and all look full and healthy.

This week I received a male and two female Lyretail Anthias from Diver's Den and they are in the QT looking well and eating.

I read the DD quarantine process and they do so much with treatments and medications that I don't plan on doing any medicating. Since they are eating well and have already been treated/medicated, how long should I keep them in QT?

-Mike

If you want to follow strict QT procedures 4-6 weeks is considered the minimum to allow full parasite (ich) life cycle.

Nice fish btw!