Thumbs up for Ozone!

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Fred,

Thanks for the compliment on my setup. You are right the back is my wall, as most cabinets are not sealed in the back.

I have about 1 inch play in the back for air to vent in and out. I just carefully placed all my items in an order that I could easily correct if I have a malfunction.

I have a complete thread that documents my beginning to where I am currently.

Here is my thread, just jump to the page that has the pictures of when I was setting up the filtration.

http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=64774

Mike G
 
Is anybody else having problem adjusting the water level/pressure in their Coralife Ozone Reactor? It seems that every time I get the level just right few hours later the levels change. I am using a cheap valve on the output line from the reactor so I am suspecting that it is causing the problem but I donââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢t know where I can find something descent and ozone resistant. I think that a needle valve would the best but again I donââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢t know where I can get one.
 
For those that run their ozonated water over carbon, do you recommend the water actually run through the carbon media or is it good enough to simply run over top of a bag of it?
 
I'm a little confused in the airdrying issue w/ ozone. . . I hearing what I think is conflicting information.

One one hand I hear that if you do not use an air drier, the effect is to make your ozonator about 50% as efficient, but that's the only problem (So you could compensate for this loss by using a 2x larger unit then you need).

On the other hand, I hearing that you loose this 50% AND there are chemical processes that occurs because of the water/ozone reaction that cause bad chemicals like bleach to end up in your tank. . .

can anyone clarify this?
 
Are you referring to the nitric acid that can be/is formed when humid air is passed through the generator?
Do a quick search on google for "ozone generator nitric acid" and you will come up with a bunch of articles to read.
I think the main issue with it is that it will damage the generator and cause premature failure.
 
I've heard that if you don't run an air drier......you get a chemical reaction that put a by product similar to bleach into you tank ( in very small doses ) a lot of people don't use air driers....Ima playing it safe....I have one
 
If you look closely, it says the check valve is ozone safe but the "T" connector doesn't say that.
If Marine Depot's customer service is claiming it, then they should get in contact with Hagen customer service to verify.
 
Jeff,

I know that it doesn't say that on their website. I was placed on hold for them to verify that claim. Five minutes later they came back and assured me that it was.

I would never purchase or even less place a T fitting that doesn't meet the standards of reef keeping.

I called Marine depot but they are closed; at 8am I'm going to talk to their manager as I have my receipt and a copy of this thread.

Can you give me the person or email you spoke with at Hagen? I'd really like to get to the bottom of this.

Thanks,

Mike G
 
how would i clean a milwaukee orp controller probe, and how often should i do this? will it take a while to calibrate after every cleanup?
 
Some say dip it in pure vinegar, once per week.

I have mine clearly hidden from direct light and will clean it as I start to see that the MV are way off.

MG
 
thanks. is that white wine vinegar, or any type? but then again mine is hidden from light as well, so i guess its a matter of avoiding deposits, (coralline, etc.), right? i have it in my small sump, but the current within the sump due to overflow, return pump, and skimmer pump/return is crazy. this i assume will give my sump slightly elevated oxygen levels relative to the main tank, right? so will the affect my orp readings, or is it simply a matter of how much crap (reducers) i have in my water? thanks
 
Perureef,

Each reefer is an author of his reef. Some will place their ORP meter in the sump, others will place it in the main display.

With experience comes knowledge; find out how many use it in the sump with positive results.

I happen to keep all meters in my main display hidden from light behind my rock work about 6 inches from the surface.

I believe in having my meters and controllers respond to my main tank not to my changes in the sump; for me their are about 1-2 degrees in temp alone between my sump and my display.

When I measure for ORP I want the organics in my main tank to be read not my sump. Therefore allowing my controllers to promptly react to sudden changes in display.

All my critters are in my display and they are my respondsibility. Which ever works for you, document your trials and errors so others can learn.

JMO,

MG
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6810460#post6810460 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Bill and Elaine
I've heard that if you don't run an air drier......you get a chemical reaction that put a by product similar to bleach into you tank ( in very small doses ) a lot of people don't use air driers....Ima playing it safe....I have one
Click to expand...

Never heard of that . Can you point one in the right dirrection to read it ?

I read that if excess ozone isn't blown off by carbon it can produce chrorine or bromine can't remeber off hand.
 
okay I found it . By not using an airdrier when conditions are humid or moist it can create nitric acid inside the unit.
 
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