Yes I will use the carbon fiber rod on the one you sent me. I was noticing it is drilled more in straight lines. Did you put rod in every hole? This is the effect I tried to get on the second wheel I repaired with the helicoil. The second wheel I used, I put pins in the wheel in curved lines the same shape as the veins on the original impeller. So it has a pin in every other hole. It allowed me to put pins on every row all the way to the outer row! Alot less drag and still ultra fine bubbles. The pump is running pretty warm. Hot to the touch. How are you measuring the temp on the pump?
Tiny Might skimmer rockin'
- Thread starter smjtkj
- Start date
spazz
New member
the wheel i just sent was designed to have a pin in every hole. im still working on different designs before i relieve the casing and cant go back form there. once i get it as far as possable with the standard housing then i plan to modify the housing and start over. that way there is 2 different options for this pump. highly modified or just changing the wheel out.
my pump is running pretty cool at 100 deg. i measure it using a infered temp gun. i think im going to go even smaller with the carbon fiber rods. im hoping to reduce the drag on the motor even more. im also going to extend the housing on the input of the pump to see if i can make the pins longer there by making more trashing with out increasing the diameter of the wheel. the bigger the wheel gets the more wattage the motor draws and the hotter the motor runs.
let me know if you need a couple more wheels. i might make some with smaller holes and send to you for testing. let me know any thought you have on different pin configurations. we can, and should try them all.
Scott, I think the wheel you sent me looks good. The only thing i see is that we could put more space between the lines and still
get the full effect with the way you have them staggered. The motor is spinning so fast that the row of pins don't need to be so close. That is exactly what I found out when I spaced them
out on the last one I did. The bubbles were just as fine and less wattage draw. I think we could get away with half the rows of the one you sent and it would have less drag and still the same
effectiveness.
get the full effect with the way you have them staggered. The motor is spinning so fast that the row of pins don't need to be so close. That is exactly what I found out when I spaced them
out on the last one I did. The bubbles were just as fine and less wattage draw. I think we could get away with half the rows of the one you sent and it would have less drag and still the same
effectiveness.
Yeah that is what I was gonna do. Have you had any trouble with the acrylic stripping out? Also how do you suggest I make the cone to cover the shaft . I was thinking of just getting a plastic closed end nut and glue it on. I may also try relieving the housing to allow longer pins when I drain the skimmer. I thought about doing it when I was working on it before but wasn't sure if it would make a difference.
spazz
New member
the acrylic is holding up great. no problems at all. i owuld just put a cap of super glue gell over the end of it. that way it dont reduce the flow of water to the pump. you can try the plastic cap but it might putthe wheel out of balance. just be careful with it. i didnt use anything on mine and the shaft is not rusting at all. its stainless steel so it might not rust. we will have to see. but some sort of cap should be used.
if we can figure out how to have longer pins in the wheel it should increase the output of the pump.
spazz
New member
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7850967#post7850967 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by kentrob11
After following your threads I was a bit dissappointed that I had already drilled my 12" tube for 4 oceanrunners! I think it's too late to apply a miny might at this point unless two of them forked into each OR hole would workThis is as far as I've gotten with it....
it would be tough to convert it over to the tiny might pump setup. it really needs an area for the diffuser and all the holes in the tube would just cause unnecessary turbulence in the main chamber.
kentrob11,
Flush route the bottom inside the tube, then use your base to attach a lower diffuser / plumbing box. You can cover those side holes easily, or use them for feeding your input water.
You'd gain 6-8" in height, but there is ALWAYS a way to make it work
Flush route the bottom inside the tube, then use your base to attach a lower diffuser / plumbing box. You can cover those side holes easily, or use them for feeding your input water.
You'd gain 6-8" in height, but there is ALWAYS a way to make it work
We can get another 1/4 inch cut out of the cover without much trouble. Well a little trouble but the fun kind! You think another 1/4 inch would do it? Have you tried the diffusor with less but larger holes yet? As good as this one is working I wonder if the less larger diam holes would work better. This configuration works awesome. Just wondering...
kentrob11
Premium Member
Actually the bottom isn't glued yet Honestly, I think it would be too much of an eye sore to patch all of those holes up. I've gotta sell this thing in a year when I take everything down so I need to keep it looking half way decent 
I'd love to take a crack at another skimmer though- I think the better route for me at this point would be trying to land the best pump available short of the 300$ Eheim to mount on this thing. The more I think about Oceanrunner 2700's, the less I like them...I think it will skim fine with them but ya know....
Honestly, I think it would be too much of an eye sore to patch all of those holes up. I've gotta sell this thing in a year when I take everything down so I need to keep it looking half way decent I'd love to take a crack at another skimmer though- I think the better route for me at this point would be trying to land the best pump available short of the 300$ Eheim to mount on this thing. The more I think about Oceanrunner 2700's, the less I like them...I think it will skim fine with them but ya know....We can get another 1/4 inch cut out of the cover without much trouble. Well a little trouble but the fun kind! You think another 1/4 inch would do it? Have you tried the diffusor with less but larger holes yet? As good as this one is working I wonder if the less larger diam holes would work better. This configuration works awesome. Just wondering...
spazz
New member
i think it would all help in the end.
as far as the deffuser goes i dont want to do a bunch of testing with that until we have all the modifications done to the pump. if we get 20-30% more air than the existing setup can handle. until we know what the pump can do dont change anything. once we get the pump dialed in we can change the deffuser if need be.
spazz
New member
its tought to install one in a skimmer like that with out costing a fortune. it can be done but not very easy. first you would need a piece of 10" tubing and the deffuser plate. then you would need to cut a grove in the bottom plate or sand the tubing perfectly flat so it would some what seal the bottom edge of the deffuser chamber. then you would have to cut holes in the 10" tube so the outputs of the pumps could go through the 10" tubing and seal the deffuser chamber from the main chamber. then you would have to install a plastic rod in the middle so the defuser plate could be bolted down with a wing nut. that way you cna make it removable. that would cost a bunch to buy these items. the deffuser could be made but the tube would be expensive and take up alot of space in the main chamber. but this would work. also it would be removable for cleaning and adjustments. if it dont make sence then let me know.
