It seems like with everything I do to my tank daily that topping off is the biggest PITA. Right now I top off about 3 liters a day. Is the only way to fix this to get a auto top off? If you get an auto top off does that mean you have to have water plumbed to your tank? My tank is in my living room and the RO system is in my kitchen. What are some possible solutions to this? What does everybody else here do about topping off?
Topping off with RO
- Thread starter arson420
- Start date
I have my R/O plumbed to a solenoid on a timer that is then connected to a Kent float valve in my sump. If the float valve fails the solenoid will only allow a little extra water to get added before the timer cuts it off.
You need to do something like this but with a small pump in a container of R/O water by your tank. There are a bunch of DIY and commercial options. People seem happy with the Tunze osmolater. You can check out Autotopoff.com - that's where I bought my solenoid.
Brent
You need to do something like this but with a small pump in a container of R/O water by your tank. There are a bunch of DIY and commercial options. People seem happy with the Tunze osmolater. You can check out Autotopoff.com - that's where I bought my solenoid.
Brent
thereefgeek
New member
Do you have water in your garage? Any cold water supply line (like the one coming into your waterheater) is a great point to run your RO/DI from.
What I have going is my DI filtration set up in the garage. My top-off is running right off the output, switched through a DIY control unit that I'll get into in a minute. When the level in the sump drops, the unit kicks on until the sump fills up to the mark and I never hassle with evaporation, ever.
Here's my filtration unit sans RO. In Folsom, our tapwater is about 38 ppm TDS, so I only use a Sediment pre-filter, Carbon filter (for Chlorine), and DI resin in the last canister:
I make saltwater in 32 gallon Brute garbage cans and the rolling dollys make life easy. I fill the "Fresh" can with DI water and transfer that with a big powerhead to the "Salt" can where I add Instant Ocean to 1.025 and mix with a big powerhead and keep it heated until I need to do a change. I carry the now empty "fresh" can into the "fishroom" and drain about 30 gallons of old water from the tank into it. Then I wheel the "Salt" can around to the front porch and pump the new saltwater into the sump through the window through a long hose (my neighbors must think I'm nuts on water-change Sundays). Once everything's full I turn the tank's main pump on and pump the water back into the tank. Next I pump the dirty water back out through the window into the sewer clean-out near my front porch and away it goes.
Here's the thread on the ATO unit that I made, and it looks like there's enough interest in them that, after the WMC I will probably be making some more if I can get enough orders (been getting PM's up the wazoo lately).
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=682824
Since my water make-up is out in the garage, the top off unit version I'm using runs water into and out of a solenoid valve like your refridgerator's ice maker. When it needs water it turn on letting water flow, and when it's full, it shuts off. Works like a charm.
IF (big IF) I do in fact build these, or host a DIY so everyone can build their own, understand that I in now way assume responsibility for wet carpet and ruined hardwood. I'm taking a big enough chance with my own wife and I don't want to answer to yours
.
What I have going is my DI filtration set up in the garage. My top-off is running right off the output, switched through a DIY control unit that I'll get into in a minute. When the level in the sump drops, the unit kicks on until the sump fills up to the mark and I never hassle with evaporation, ever.
Here's my filtration unit sans RO. In Folsom, our tapwater is about 38 ppm TDS, so I only use a Sediment pre-filter, Carbon filter (for Chlorine), and DI resin in the last canister:
I make saltwater in 32 gallon Brute garbage cans and the rolling dollys make life easy. I fill the "Fresh" can with DI water and transfer that with a big powerhead to the "Salt" can where I add Instant Ocean to 1.025 and mix with a big powerhead and keep it heated until I need to do a change. I carry the now empty "fresh" can into the "fishroom" and drain about 30 gallons of old water from the tank into it. Then I wheel the "Salt" can around to the front porch and pump the new saltwater into the sump through the window through a long hose (my neighbors must think I'm nuts on water-change Sundays). Once everything's full I turn the tank's main pump on and pump the water back into the tank. Next I pump the dirty water back out through the window into the sewer clean-out near my front porch and away it goes.
Here's the thread on the ATO unit that I made, and it looks like there's enough interest in them that, after the WMC I will probably be making some more if I can get enough orders (been getting PM's up the wazoo lately).
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=682824
Since my water make-up is out in the garage, the top off unit version I'm using runs water into and out of a solenoid valve like your refridgerator's ice maker. When it needs water it turn on letting water flow, and when it's full, it shuts off. Works like a charm.
IF (big IF) I do in fact build these, or host a DIY so everyone can build their own, understand that I in now way assume responsibility for wet carpet and ruined hardwood. I'm taking a big enough chance with my own wife and I don't want to answer to yours
.thereefgeek
New member
A couple quick pics of the units I've made.
this one controls a power head plugged into the outlet:
This one has the soleniod that I'm currently using:
this one controls a power head plugged into the outlet:
This one has the soleniod that I'm currently using:
xia
New member
Just a question that's sort of off topic, but when Rich mentioned the water heater, I noticed that I have copper pipes. I know that copper is bad for reef tanks. Any chance of copper escaping the filters, and getting into your RO/DI water? Is this another reason not to use tap water?
funman1
Active member
for my little 12 g nano, Im going to setup a small bottle, (larger bottle in your case) and then have the autotop off pull from there.
Then just keep the bottle or bucket full or fresh water..
My RODI is in the closet with the washer and dryer and the tank is in the kitchen on the counter.
Don't know how much room you have for extra water near your tank though...
~Steve~
Then just keep the bottle or bucket full or fresh water..
My RODI is in the closet with the washer and dryer and the tank is in the kitchen on the counter.
Don't know how much room you have for extra water near your tank though...
~Steve~
I have a rubbermaid 44 gallon trash can full of fresh circulating salt water in my garage. There is no plumbing in my garage at all. I have another 44 gallon trash can outside my kitchen window full of the RO water. There is a little vinyl tube that goes from my RO spigot out my kitchen window into a little hole I drilled in the lid for that trash can. My tank is nowhere near any plumbing at all. I will look through some DIY top off sites and see what solution is best for me now. All I know is if I don't do anything else, the next tank I have I am going to setup a real auto top off.
I have a half gallon a day topoff. I fill a bucket once a week with RO/DI and have an inexpensive prebuilt unit from autotopoff.com that hooks onto my sump, has a connection to a pump in the bucket that delivers water to a certain level as needed 24/7. Only caution I have is that said bucket must not be taller than your sump or you get a siphoning action that will overfill.
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