Torch coral receeding

[Skinwatch]

I bought a nice torch coral about 8 months ago and after I placed it high in the tank with good water flow, the coral flourished and even grew its tentacles to a length of almost 6 inches. It was huge! However for about the past month, it has been getting smaller and smaller and this morning I can even see part of its exposed skeleton!

Recently some of my red mushrooms have been encroaching on it but nothing has yet to come in contact with it. Plus I would think that the torch would kill the mushrooms due to its aggressiveness.

I have not tested for iodine but I have a beautifull fiji leather that is almost 7 inches across and is doing great. So I am not sure if that is the issue here.

Water Parameters: All Zeros for Nitrates, ammona, phosphate etc.
Salinity 1.026
Calcium on the high side actually

dkH is low 6.4
PH is also low 8.0
I am adding an alkalinity/pH buffer to help this problem

Nothing in the form of bacteria growing anywhere.

Any suggestions???

 

[Hormigaquatica]

your dKH and low pH are both well below the levels a torch (or any euphyllia) will tolerate. I would suggest a few large water changes to get your params back in shape, and hopefully it will recover. You may want to give it a little less flow too, torches can be stressed by constant strong flow, eventually receeding from their skeleton; though I think that is a secondary issue in this case.

 

[bitis316]

I would agree, but the secret is Manganese, Manganese, Manganese.....Gota have to have zero mortality rate..Try it and see for youself.....1-2 weeks for full results...

 

[Skinwatch]

Does manganese help to raise the alkalinity though?

 

[Skinwatch]

Dumb question. Sorry. When I realized how high my calcium was, I figured that my alkalinity/calcium levels need to come up and down respectivly. I am going to keep adding Kent dkH/pH buffer and test everyday until I can bring those levels into a better range.I'm guessing that's my biggest problem right now. Plus only a small water change this weekend to help since I change it pretty regularly.

 

[Hormigaquatica]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8467667#post8467667 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Skinwatch
I am going to keep adding Kent dkH/pH buffer and test everyday until I can bring those levels into a better range.

Just a suggestion- because Ca, dKH, and pH are such a pain to actually regulate by supplements, I think a couple larger water changes might work better for you. Salt mix by and large is already balanced to proper levels; if you change out a significant portion of water your levels will "auto-correct" (well, not quite, but close). Its less tedious, and certainly less expensive than using additives all the time, plus all the good side effects (removal to other toxins, replenishing all those 'other' trace elements, etc). Thats my thought anyhow...

 

[Skinwatch]

Good point. I am actually planning on a water change this weekend. I was talking to a LFS owner about this and he said that a number of people using the same salt mix that I am currently using have been complaining that their alkalinity and calcium are out of whack as well. He indicated that sometimes salt manufacturers release "bad batches" of their mixes, where all of the elements/ingredients etc. are not in the corrrect proportions and such, although they would never admit it. That may or may not be contributing to the problem but I thought that to be an interesting idea nontheless.

 

[Hormigaquatica]

Yeah, Kent Marine had that issue some time ago, but as far as I know its been straightened out. Ive been using Instant Ocean and have not had a problem with it yet.

 

[Sk8r]

All good suggestions: let me additionally mention that the growth of the fiji leather may have something to do with the decline of the torch, which is an lps stony coral. Stonies and leathers do not get along, and the leather may be emitting a chemical to discourage encroachment. Unfortunately in a reef tank, this just recirculates right onto your unfortunate torch, if you aren't running a lot of carbon, and particularly if the leather is upwind of this fellow. A single rapidly-growing specimen may snatch nutrients the other corals need; you have to keep those levels up; but more than that, there is continual chemical warfare going on, and it will keep stonies from thriving if not intercepted and removed.

 

[Skinwatch]

The fiji is actually downstream from the torch but I see your point. The Fiji seems to get bigger while the torch gets smaller. I hope that it has something to do with the alkalinity more so than chemical warfare which I have seen in the tank before. Don't softies exact that same kind of warfare on each other as well though?

I have some Montipora in the vicinity as well but it is thriving, growing on the glass even.

I heard an interesting annecdote relating our own world to that of the marine tank. A guy told me, "If you change even 1% of our environment, we would all die off very fast." So first things first I guess, Those calcium levels and alkalinity are so off, that I am surprised that there aren't more problems.

 

[bitis316]

Good points, but

Good points, but

You all make good points about chemicals and toxins, but I have over 20 leathers in my 90...And a 11 stalked torch that has never had a prob.....I do a 5 gallon h20 change monthly and use no carbon....I only add Manganese with Reef crystals salt....Try some chemi pure from boyd.....I keep a bag in my sump and switch it out every three months. It removes no trace elements but will help with toxins.....Check your salt and see if Manganese is included in you ingredients...Most do not, and if they do it's not enough to matter....Most of the large reefs of the world have a higher manganese level than the rest of the ocean..check for your self.....Try it and see...This is my small tank...the 90

 

[Skinwatch]

I am interested in the Chemi Pure that you use. I have heard of that. Is that somekind of powder or pellet type thing that you can leave in for a long period of time?