Treating with Vitamin C

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erc, I would be incredibly interested if cyano dissipates with VC. Let me know how that works out.
 
I can tell you that it may be pure coincidence but I have been dosing Vodka for the past 3 months and had gotten my NO3 down to approx 5-7 and PO4 down to .01 and still had two patches of Cyano that I could not get rid of no matter what I did (sucked it out every 2-3 days, lights out for three days, etc). I started Dosing VC along with the Vodka a little over a week ago and at the same time sucked out the Cyano patch. Now a week later the Cyano has not came back at all and the NO3 is down to ~5ppm. I am dosing 6000mg broken into two 3000mg doses, one in the AM and one in the PM. I have 273G total water volume after taking into account the Live Rock and Sand in the tank and sumps. That puts me around 15ppm total VC. I also notice my two very small patches of Bryopsis have started wilting away. So there is merit in this experiment. I plan on doing the 15ppm dosage for approx 14 days, then dropping back to 5ppm a day and will probably keep it there for some time. As I have said before the only thing I have noticed at all and it may not even be a concern, is that my ORP temporarily drops drastically when I dose VC, however it rebounds in 2-3 hours and is back to normal after 8hrs. Randy, I think explained that this will tell you when all the VC has depleted in the system (which has a life of about 8 hours in SW) and that does correspond with my ORP readings. Most people never even test ORP and if it were not that I ran Ozone before starting to dose the Vodka, I also would not have even checked it. ORP is, though, a reading of the Reduction/Oxidation potential of the water and does have a purpose, but I am beginning to take the stance that it does not make a huge difference unless it stays low for an very extended amount of time. So far I am liking the results of the VC on everything in the tank, Zoas, LPS, SPS and fish. Better color, lower NO3, healthier looking, and no real negatives as of yet
 
I am hopeful that the cyano will go bye bye. As far as I understand, if theres no nitrates and phosphates(except whats in the rock) or very little, that means very little food for nuisance algae or cyanobacteria. Which also means little nutrient for the macroalgae which could be a good thing. One less light to heat the water. I'll keep posting on the progress of the cyano.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14267535#post14267535 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by cybrsufr
I can tell you that it may be pure coincidence but I have been dosing Vodka for the past 3 months and had gotten my NO3 down to approx 5-7 and PO4 down to .01 and still had two patches of Cyano that I could not get rid of no matter what I did (sucked it out every 2-3 days, lights out for three days, etc). I started Dosing VC along with the Vodka a little over a week ago and at the same time sucked out the Cyano patch. Now a week later the Cyano has not came back at all and the NO3 is down to ~5ppm. I am dosing 6000mg broken into two 3000mg doses, one in the AM and one in the PM. I have 273G total water volume after taking into account the Live Rock and Sand in the tank and sumps. That puts me around 15ppm total VC. I also notice my two very small patches of Bryopsis have started wilting away. So there is merit in this experiment. I plan on doing the 15ppm dosage for approx 14 days, then dropping back to 5ppm a day and will probably keep it there for some time. As I have said before the only thing I have noticed at all and it may not even be a concern, is that my ORP temporarily drops drastically when I dose VC, however it rebounds in 2-3 hours and is back to normal after 8hrs. Randy, I think explained that this will tell you when all the VC has depleted in the system (which has a life of about 8 hours in SW) and that does correspond with my ORP readings. Most people never even test ORP and if it were not that I ran Ozone before starting to dose the Vodka, I also would not have even checked it. ORP is, though, a reading of the Reduction/Oxidation potential of the water and does have a purpose, but I am beginning to take the stance that it does not make a huge difference unless it stays low for an very extended amount of time. So far I am liking the results of the VC on everything in the tank, Zoas, LPS, SPS and fish. Better color, lower NO3, healthier looking, and no real negatives as of yet

I bet you hit 0 on your nitrate readings shortly with the VC supplementation. But I agree with your statement. I'm also seeing the same results with VC. Any chance you are taking before and after pics?
 
Unfortunately no I did not take any before picts right before starting, but do have a couple picts from just 4 days into it and have some picts from a month ago, which could be used for a comparison. I will post them in the main VC forum since they are not Zoanthids. I forgot this is the main VC thread so here ther are even though they are not Zoanthids.


December 28, 2008 Pictures

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January 27, 2009 Pictures

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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14267846#post14267846 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by cybrsufr
Unfortunately no I did not take any before picts right before starting, but do have a couple picts from just 4 days into it and have some picts from a month ago, which could be used for a comparison. I will post them in the main VC forum since they are not Zoanthids.

Do tell? I've noticed my leather, sinularia, and a zoo in decline appear to be doing better.
 
erc, Please seriously consider discontinuing the use of absorbic acid. It will greatly change your pH & alk. Get the buffered form of VC, called sodiium ascorbate. There are many links to the company we are getting it from.
 
I was thinking the same thing, They also appear to have a little more color. They are definitely happy with the VC in the system. Even the Lokani is polyped out all the time and the spot at the bottom of the lokani was just fragged 2 weeks ago and it is completely healed and starting to show growth tips where the branch was cut off, I think thats a little fast for a Lokani.
 
I'm actually starting to think that melding a few different carbon sources may yield the most positive growth results. I've also recently experimented with another carbon source that improves sps corals dramatically. Very similar to Zeovit coloration. Since dosing my zoos, leathers, and softies have been in dramatic decline (but oddly not palythoas). Using 0.10ppm VC daily is looking like it counteracts this issue. I may jump up dramatically here next week and see if benefits continue. Maybe 0.50ppm daily.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14268101#post14268101 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Pufferpunk
It is excellent for healing fresh-cut frags. Hence, the amounts I dose into my frag tank. ;)

You only dose 2ppm in your frag tank?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14268102#post14268102 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Genetics
I'm actually starting to think that melding a few different carbon sources may yield the most positive growth results. I've also recently experimented with another carbon source that improves sps corals dramatically. Very similar to Zeovit coloration. Since dosing my zoos, leathers, and softies have been in dramatic decline (but oddly not palythoas). Using 0.10ppm VC daily is looking like it counteracts this issue. I may jump up dramatically here next week and see if benefits continue. Maybe 0.50ppm daily.

What is the other Carbon source? PM if you don't want to post it OT here.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14268243#post14268243 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by cybrsufr
What is the other Carbon source? PM if you don't want to post it OT here.

Let's finish up with the VC experimental trials first. ;) I've had a few PMs asking me but would like to have photographic proof in line and written up before advocating it.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14268110#post14268110 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Genetics
You only dose 2ppm in your frag tank?
I haven't been able to do the math but I dose between 1/8 & 1/4 tsp 2x/day in a 15g tank. To beat zoapox, I dosed an entire 1/4 tsp.
 
Hello!! i'm just wanted to say that i've joined the dark side and just got in my Vitamin C from iherb.com. ok so lets start off with the basic, i have a 24g nano cube, dosing 2 part solution from bulkreefsupply.com and want to use vitamin C for growth and color of my zoas.

How much should i start dosing and what times? please any help is appreciated. thanks kent
 
It has been a few hours since the last cheat guide was posted :p.
Here it is again:

Use this product:
http://www.iherb.com/ProductDetails.aspx?pid=-7152293197697039798&at=0
$5 0ff coupon code: LUL789

1/4 tsp=1112 mg.

For every 100 gallons:

5 ppm ----- 1892 mg VC
10 ppm ---- 3785 mg VC
15 ppm ---- 5677 mg VC
20 ppm ---- 7570 mg VC
25 ppm ---- 9462 mg VC
30 ppm ---- 11355 mg VC
Dose 2x/day.

Be sure your pH and alk are within normal reef limits before starting.
Shoot for a ppm of around 5 if only dosing for improved coral growth, coloration, and spread. Shoot for higher amounts up to 30 ppm if you are having melting zoas or closed zoas and look for the causes of your problems as you dose. Check for high nitrates, pests, zoa pox, predators, and unstable water conditions.
Dose low amounts and increase the amount slowly over the course of a few days to a couple weeks.
If you notice an algae bloom or increased skim on your glass then cut back by half until it disappears.
Watch your skimmer, it will start to skim more.
Dose the amount twice a day in a fast moving area of your sump or overflow. You may dilute the vitamin c in ro/di water for a minute then pour into my overflow. If adding to sump, try and add the vitamin c after filtration such as skimmers and reactors.
If you have a question, ask here. I checks this thread daily.

Be sure to take some "before" pics!
 
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