Aqua Keepers
New member
Look in the DIY forum. I'm sure I've seen others do this.
Tricky problem
- Thread starter kmacartney
- Start date
kmacartney
New member
I will. Part of the process will be for me to build new legs for the light as well.
kmacartney
New member
I have not moved the light yet but even with the reduced photo period there is still no improvement.
SunnyX
New member
Like yourself, I too underestimated T5's and my corals got burned, literally. 
Concerning softies like zoo's and acans, I cannot put them any where other then the bottom quarter of the tank. The lights are just too intense for them.
I have also been going through a lightening of corals. I have begun to get deeper coloration by doing the following:
* I believe that the T5 setup I have may be too bright for many of the corals. I have noticed increased polyp expansion and the acans are opening up much better.
Most of the day I will run only five bulbs, for 10 hours. I will run the last two bulbs for four hours a day.
This is how it will go:
12:00-10:00PM (Blue+, Blue+)
12:15-9:45PM (Aquablue Special, Aquablue Special, Blue+)
3:00-7:00PM (Aquablue Special, Pro Color)
* I have begun to dose more Reefbooster (AA). This has helped my corals maintain vibrancy and color.
If the photoperiod is not working for you, raising the fixture may be the solution.
Most T5 tanks I have seen tend to have corals with lighter coloration, so it may not be something we can get around.
Finding the cause and solution to coral coloration and appearance can sometimes be tricky.
Anything I missed?
Concerning softies like zoo's and acans, I cannot put them any where other then the bottom quarter of the tank. The lights are just too intense for them. I have also been going through a lightening of corals. I have begun to get deeper coloration by doing the following:
* I believe that the T5 setup I have may be too bright for many of the corals. I have noticed increased polyp expansion and the acans are opening up much better.
Most of the day I will run only five bulbs, for 10 hours. I will run the last two bulbs for four hours a day.
This is how it will go:
12:00-10:00PM (Blue+, Blue+)
12:15-9:45PM (Aquablue Special, Aquablue Special, Blue+)
3:00-7:00PM (Aquablue Special, Pro Color)
* I have begun to dose more Reefbooster (AA). This has helped my corals maintain vibrancy and color.
If the photoperiod is not working for you, raising the fixture may be the solution.
Most T5 tanks I have seen tend to have corals with lighter coloration, so it may not be something we can get around.
Finding the cause and solution to coral coloration and appearance can sometimes be tricky.
Anything I missed?
kmacartney
New member
Thanks for the input SunnyX!
Right now my photoperiod is
10AM-10PM
ATI Blue+ and UVL Super Actinic
Then 2PM-9:30PM
ATI Blue+
ATI Aquablue
ATI Blue+
Geisseman 11000K
Right now my photoperiod is
10AM-10PM
ATI Blue+ and UVL Super Actinic
Then 2PM-9:30PM
ATI Blue+
ATI Aquablue
ATI Blue+
Geisseman 11000K
kmacartney
New member
I used to run all bulbs for roughly 10 hours.
kmacartney
New member
Duh! I meant to say 12 hours....
Aqua Keepers
New member
Any updates?
kmacartney
New member
After seeing no real change from the photoperiod adjustment I thought about the possible ULN situation and decided to cut back on the vinegar dosing to about half of the previous level. On the surface that seemed to help overall appearances. This weekend I am going to check my nitrate and phosphate to see if there is any change.
Things got screwed up because in the last week the power went off twice for at least 4 hours each time. The second time was caused by this moron truck driver who knocked a utility pole down about 2 blocks away. It was quite cold the last time the power went out and when the power finally came on the tank was about 71F. I will have to wait and see my results without additional power disruptions.
I have also started dosing additional calcium since my calcium keeps declining as compared to my alkalinity. That last time I tested my calcium was 320 but my alkalinity was 9. From what I understand I have room for more calcium plus my growth has slowed. It seems like I can tell my calcium level not only by coral growth also the rate at which coraline algae grows.
Things got screwed up because in the last week the power went off twice for at least 4 hours each time. The second time was caused by this moron truck driver who knocked a utility pole down about 2 blocks away. It was quite cold the last time the power went out and when the power finally came on the tank was about 71F. I will have to wait and see my results without additional power disruptions.
I have also started dosing additional calcium since my calcium keeps declining as compared to my alkalinity. That last time I tested my calcium was 320 but my alkalinity was 9. From what I understand I have room for more calcium plus my growth has slowed. It seems like I can tell my calcium level not only by coral growth also the rate at which coraline algae grows.
Aqua Keepers
New member
Yes, you have room for calcium, but I don't *think* that a Ca level of 320 is low enough to cause your color issues. It's hard to tell because of your power out situations, but I'm betting that because you did not see a change by adjusting the photoperiod that you are having a ULN situation. Cutting back on the vinegar dosing is a good idea. If you don't notice a rise in your nitrate and phosphate levels with the cut back, I would start feeding more or dosing amminos. Keep me updated.
kmacartney
New member
I agree about the calcium. I guess it was just a side thought.
Tonight I tested again and both nitrate and phosphate were not detectable on my kit (API). So I will again cut my vinegar by half and see what the results are.
BTW, calcium 420, alk 9 tonight, after dosing additional calcium last night.
Tonight I tested again and both nitrate and phosphate were not detectable on my kit (API). So I will again cut my vinegar by half and see what the results are.
BTW, calcium 420, alk 9 tonight, after dosing additional calcium last night.
kmacartney
New member
UPDATE
UPDATE
So I completely quit doising vingar. My nitrate and phosphate are still undetecable in my API test kit. The sps have regained some color but not much. My zoas are still pretty sad looking with almost no growth. I started the dosing because I assumed (wrongly) that my test was not accurate.
It also turns out that reducing the photo period had no effect as well.
It turns out that the acetate in the vinegar actually makes my alkalinity appear higher than it actually was. So when I tested my calcium and alk it seemed that that my calcium was declining while my alk was more or less staying the same. So I started dosing CaCl to bring the calcium up, but that was actually making it go down. Now my "real" calcium is about 320 while my alk is about 7. Still too low for my taste.
My next theory is that I have excessive stray voltage in the tank. I just ordered a grounding probe a a relatively cheap way of seeing if this is it. I am thinking this because from time to time I get some small shocks when I touch the water.
Feel free to ask questions as it may help me think in new direstions.
UPDATE
So I completely quit doising vingar. My nitrate and phosphate are still undetecable in my API test kit. The sps have regained some color but not much. My zoas are still pretty sad looking with almost no growth. I started the dosing because I assumed (wrongly) that my test was not accurate.
It also turns out that reducing the photo period had no effect as well.
It turns out that the acetate in the vinegar actually makes my alkalinity appear higher than it actually was. So when I tested my calcium and alk it seemed that that my calcium was declining while my alk was more or less staying the same. So I started dosing CaCl to bring the calcium up, but that was actually making it go down. Now my "real" calcium is about 320 while my alk is about 7. Still too low for my taste.
My next theory is that I have excessive stray voltage in the tank. I just ordered a grounding probe a a relatively cheap way of seeing if this is it. I am thinking this because from time to time I get some small shocks when I touch the water.
Feel free to ask questions as it may help me think in new direstions.
kmacartney
New member
Is that like a multi-meter? If so then yes. Although I am not sure if it digital. I did not have this problem before I added my modded maxi jets AFAIK....I also switched my return pump from mag 7 to a mag 9.5.
melev
Well-known member
Digital means you read the numbers on a LCD. Analog means it has a needle that swings across a scale.
If you have a digital one, it is very easy to use. Turn it to A/C 220v, and put one probe in the water, and the other probe in the grounding hole of a nearby outlet. Obviously, do this carefully and wear tennis shoes.
You want it to read 0. If it reads higher, something is leaking voltage. It can even be from the reflectors over your bulbs, which is an odd one, but you can ground the reflectors with a wire attached to it/them to a grounding screw on the ballast or the outlet.
My tank had 48v at one point, and I took out an 11 year old pump that was putting flow in the refugium. It dropped it down to 17v. I finally replaced a ton of pumps with a single manifold connected to an external pump, and dropped it to 0. Supposedly. I really want to redo that test.
Then once all the stray electricity is out of your tank, adding grounding probes to the display and the sump will keep YOU safe. You should still test the tank from time to time (removing the probes first) to see if all is well.
If you have a digital one, it is very easy to use. Turn it to A/C 220v, and put one probe in the water, and the other probe in the grounding hole of a nearby outlet. Obviously, do this carefully and wear tennis shoes.
You want it to read 0. If it reads higher, something is leaking voltage. It can even be from the reflectors over your bulbs, which is an odd one, but you can ground the reflectors with a wire attached to it/them to a grounding screw on the ballast or the outlet.
My tank had 48v at one point, and I took out an 11 year old pump that was putting flow in the refugium. It dropped it down to 17v. I finally replaced a ton of pumps with a single manifold connected to an external pump, and dropped it to 0. Supposedly. I really want to redo that test.
Then once all the stray electricity is out of your tank, adding grounding probes to the display and the sump will keep YOU safe. You should still test the tank from time to time (removing the probes first) to see if all is well.
kmacartney
New member
Thanks! I will try to do that by this weekend.
Tonight, I will try to post some pics showing the differences when things looked better and how they look now to see if it offers any additional clues.
Tonight, I will try to post some pics showing the differences when things looked better and how they look now to see if it offers any additional clues.
ReefEnabler
Premium Member
thanks for the explanation I'm going to test mine to. I got a meter months ago and then got so busy that I never even looked up the right way to use it on a tank 
so it doesn't matter which probe goes in the tank and which in the ground?
so it doesn't matter which probe goes in the tank and which in the ground?
melev
Well-known member
Not as far as I can tell. That being said, after I complete my test, I reverse the probes (after the wet tip is dried off) and measure again. My gut says the red wire goes to the ground hole. An electrician may chime in on this one, but for the most part you'll end up opening up a heated debate. I'm just explaining what I do.
kmacartney
New member
I used this setting...
and got a reading of 46-48, it did not stop going back and forth.
and got a reading of 46-48, it did not stop going back and forth.
