Trueblackpercula and peroxide for AEFW
- Thread starter trueblackpercula
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trueblackpercula
New member
Hey Mo so sorry for the delay. I checked the bottle this morning and it says 3%
YoungREEFA
New member
So is there a recommended ratio?
Edit: a little reading helps haha
Edit: a little reading helps haha
YoungREEFA
New member
I dipped 2 new acquisitions today in peroxide. One got it twice. 500 ml tank water with 100 ml 3% peroxide. The dip where both corals were present was full of bubbling and sliming up. I cant say i saw any organisms float to the top, but by the amount of bubbling i can tell something was going on. The coral i dipped twice was one i am very specticle of. Both these corals were labeled browned out and i got a pretty good deal on them. I got them to hopefully color them up And sort of raise them... However as i stated earlier i saw nearly no critters fly off, even flatworms. Both are in tank at the moment and ill report tomorrow on any signs of recession if any.
ormet
Just one more frag
Well, H2O2 is a powerful oxidiser and will react with everything organic. It does not make a difference between flatworms, "organisms" or coral tissue.
Basically, put something organic in h2o2 and you will se a reaction.
Its pretty cool like that
YoungREEFA
New member
Anyone else doing this?
Dapg8gt
New member
I tried 4 frags I've had cooking for a while last weekend in a diluted version of the recipe. I used 75 ml to 500ml of tank water for 5 mins and lost almost all the color on those pieces. They are still alive and look healthy minus the color loss, but the algae is gone lol.. I tried it just because these plugs have a brushy type of algae on them that nothing will eat.
Does everybody else doing this lose almost all the color of the acros? I figured I was playing it safe at a lower concentration but I guess not. I think I'll leave this one in the zoa category as before for the future =)..
Could be the ones I dipped were more sensitive but all had the same outcome ( Garf bonsai, pearlberry, miyagi tort and a blue tenius).
Does everybody else doing this lose almost all the color of the acros? I figured I was playing it safe at a lower concentration but I guess not. I think I'll leave this one in the zoa category as before for the future =)..
Could be the ones I dipped were more sensitive but all had the same outcome ( Garf bonsai, pearlberry, miyagi tort and a blue tenius).
YoungREEFA
New member
My strawberry shortcake piece retained color fairly well at a 1:5 ratio for 10 minutes
Moser
Active member
You're all using way more concentrated solution that I do.
The corals stay fine with my dilution, but algae etc is gone by next day. However, I use 35% peroxide 5ml per litre of tank water.
You use 3% 200ml per litre tank water. I reckon, you could try 100ml per litre tank water, or even 50ml, which is roughly equivalent to what I use. However, at my dilution ,the flatworms don't fly off, they slowly come away.
I suggest reducing your dosage a little more, until the corals remain colourful, but the pests rapidly come off…. if zooxanthellae are bailing, then reduce dosage a little.
I'm keen to know what happens to the eggs with peroxide dipping. Maybe we would need high doses.
Peroxide at the correct dosage does NOT kill coral tissue.
Mo
The corals stay fine with my dilution, but algae etc is gone by next day. However, I use 35% peroxide 5ml per litre of tank water.
You use 3% 200ml per litre tank water. I reckon, you could try 100ml per litre tank water, or even 50ml, which is roughly equivalent to what I use. However, at my dilution ,the flatworms don't fly off, they slowly come away.
I suggest reducing your dosage a little more, until the corals remain colourful, but the pests rapidly come off…. if zooxanthellae are bailing, then reduce dosage a little.
I'm keen to know what happens to the eggs with peroxide dipping. Maybe we would need high doses.
Peroxide at the correct dosage does NOT kill coral tissue.
Mo
Dapg8gt
New member
Not all My dosage was 75ml of 3% to 500ml of tank water, a lot less than what is reccomended and It bleached every piece I had.. Idk but I think I'll stick to the bayer /coral rx/revive for my acros, I didn't lose any piece but now I have super pale acros with clean plugs =) .
Me personally am happy with the bayer I use and my method, I'm not knocking the H202 but it's a lot harsher on the coral and I tried it explicitly for algae. I've used it a lot of times on zoas and will continue to, but I think my sps will be the usual routine as I see no need to change it for pests. Glad it's another option for us to have though when it comes to sticks, the more the better.
sahin
Ultimate Reefer
Mo: 35/100*5 = 1.75ml of H2O2 into 1000ml is 0.0017
Dan: 3/100*75 = 2.25ml of H2O2 into 500ml is 0.0045
So Mo is using less than 1/2 concentration compared to Dan.
That's probably why he is having better results. Havent checked out what everyone else is using, but Mo is probably using a lot less than most others.
FWIW, it sounds like Bayer is the best thing out there currently for AEFW's.
Moser
Active member
Thanks Sahin,
Bayer kills worms, it doesn't kill the nuisance algae on the bases or AEFW eggs.
It is only useful if combined with a QT system.
Peroxide may kill eggs?. If it does, it is far superior to any other dip!.
We don't know if it kills eggs though, and most seem to be overdosing it?!.
Find the best dose and it may work a treat!.
Any other dip is NOT sufficient alone to prevent AEFW infestation. Egss will always get through.
Mo
sahin
Ultimate Reefer
Moser
Active member
Quite true in respect of the AEFW eggs and nuisance algae.
The problem is that as soon as you stop dipping, the AEFW will be back.
It is very difficult to get a 100% kill rate without harming the coral in some way. If you continually dip, the corals will never settle enough to give optimum colouration and you may well lose them.
I don't know that you can get 100% of the AEFW with a dip. The smallest are not visible to the naked eye.
Mo
trueblackpercula
New member
UPDATE !!!!
Take a look at the videos and be amazed at what the AEFW look like. I have decided to through them all in the garbage as it is not worth the fight anymore. (hope no one gets upset but these little guys are running ramped.
Here they are at 12 minutes
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sVdVZ458OrE
here they are at 22 minutes
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dm_3UFT9jow
It took almost 58 minutes for them to completely all die including the eggs. by the way the eggs turn almost white when dead. they don't have that really nice looking orange color.
****** Let me be the first to report my findings as I was blown away and would not have believed it, If not seen with my own eyes *******
I dipped everything again and found AEFW that were bigger and uglier then the first batch LOL but what killed me was that I decided to leave the acro in the 1:5 ratio of peroxide solution to see how long before the eggs would die.
Well after 22 minutes the AEFW were still alive and one of them started to crawl out of the polyp coralite cavity. I would have never seen this as I was only dipping for several minutes.
I am willing to bet that's why most of us get AEFW because we just don't have the correct dips and we don't leave them long enough in the dip solution.
I think this is great news for the hobby as we can now try and beat these little acro killers.
So With my next batch of mari cultred pieces I plan on removing the bases and dipping I just don't know what to use anymore. I may go with revive or bayer an possibily a combination with peroxide.
Hope this helps everyone, Also the acro bleached out and died at the 17 to 18 minute mark
Michael
worm crawling out of cavity area.
eggs at start of dip
eggs that appear to be dead.
Take a look at the videos and be amazed at what the AEFW look like. I have decided to through them all in the garbage as it is not worth the fight anymore. (hope no one gets upset but these little guys are running ramped.
Here they are at 12 minutes
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sVdVZ458OrE
here they are at 22 minutes
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dm_3UFT9jow
It took almost 58 minutes for them to completely all die including the eggs. by the way the eggs turn almost white when dead. they don't have that really nice looking orange color.
****** Let me be the first to report my findings as I was blown away and would not have believed it, If not seen with my own eyes *******
I dipped everything again and found AEFW that were bigger and uglier then the first batch LOL but what killed me was that I decided to leave the acro in the 1:5 ratio of peroxide solution to see how long before the eggs would die.
Well after 22 minutes the AEFW were still alive and one of them started to crawl out of the polyp coralite cavity. I would have never seen this as I was only dipping for several minutes.
I am willing to bet that's why most of us get AEFW because we just don't have the correct dips and we don't leave them long enough in the dip solution.
I think this is great news for the hobby as we can now try and beat these little acro killers.
So With my next batch of mari cultred pieces I plan on removing the bases and dipping I just don't know what to use anymore. I may go with revive or bayer an possibily a combination with peroxide.
Hope this helps everyone, Also the acro bleached out and died at the 17 to 18 minute mark
Michael
worm crawling out of cavity area.
eggs at start of dip
eggs that appear to be dead.
Last edited:
sahin
Ultimate Reefer
UPDATE !!!!
Take a look at the videos and be amazed at what the AEFW look like. I have decided to through them all in the garbage as it is not worth the fight anymore. (hope no one gets upset but these little guys are running ramped.
Here they are at 12 minutes
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sVdVZ458OrE
here they are at 22 minutes
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dm_3UFT9jow
It took almost 58 minutes for them to completely all die including the eggs. by the way the eggs turn almost white when dead. they don't have that really nice looking orange color.
****** Let me be the first to report my findings as I was blown away and would not have believed it, If not seen with my own eyes *******
I dipped everything again and found AEFW that were bigger and uglier then the first batch LOL but what killed me was that I decided to leave the acro in the 1:5 ratio of peroxide solution to see how long before the eggs would die.
Well after 22 minutes the AEFW were still alive and one of them started to crawl out of the polyp coralite cavity. I would have never seen this as I was only dipping for several minutes.
I am willing to bet that's why most of us get AEFW because we just don't have the correct dips and we don't leave them long enough in the dip solution.
I think this is great news for the hobby as we can now try and beat these little acro killers.
So With my next batch of mari cultred pieces I plan on removing the bases and dipping I just don't know what to use anymore. I may go with revive or bayer an possibily a combination with peroxide.
Hope this helps everyone, Also the acro bleached out and died at the 17 to 18 minute mark
Michael
worm crawling out of cavity area.
eggs at start of dip
eggs that appear to be dead.
Michael, it is disappointing that you are choosing to throw away your acros...personally I dont think the H2O2 is very suitable as a dip; because it indiscriminately attacks both acropora tissue and the AEFW.
IMO Bayer is a better product because it stuns the AEFW's (thus they fall off) well before the active ingredients start to do damage to the acros.
I've experimented with a couple of spare frags last week as my Bayer didnt turn up and I didnt like the effect H2O2 had on the Acros.
IMO, even Revive and CoralRX are better.
FWIW after the 2nd dipping, I've not found a single AEFW. That means the dipping method is working. The dipping stuns the AEFW and is thereby removed from the acro.
Hope you dont mind my post; just wanted to put a different perspective.
I think if you chose to dip in Bayer, clipped healthy branches and threw away base parts/infected parts of the colony, you could have saved most of your acros.
